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James H

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Everything posted by James H

  1. Ok, time for an update. I'm sure by now you'll know my format and that these photos will be a part of the instruction manual...starting with the best way to remove parts from the sheets. There's only five bulkheads on this model which need bevelling, and I always opt to use a Dremel as tackling those inside curves is a doddle. Bevelling lines are engraved on this kit, and of course, these are only a starting point as more will be removed during fairing. As is convention with my VM builds, most initial building is done 'dry' and glue applied later. This is simply to do with making sure we have a completely aligned set of frames before any glue sees the model. Anything mis-set early on could impact the build later. Parts are now slid into position at bow and stern, providing a base for the ends of the planks to fit against. All parts fit like a glove. These are also pinned into place using pegs which ensure alignment. The lower deck is now fitted. This provides a nice solid platform which creates some rigidity in the assembly. A centre section is now glued into position which provides mid-deck support for the main deck, and coincides with the fish hatches and water well in what will be a fat-bellied little boat. A familiar assembly feature in a lot of VM kits is the construction of the stern area using the shaped set of 'timbers' which are then slotted across the rearmost bulkheads. Another VM feature are the longitudinal deck beams which conform to the sheer of the deck and 'lock' all the bulkheads into position.....not that they need any real locking as they all fit perfectly with little to no play in them. With everything in place and happy that all construction is correct, slightly dilute Titebond is now brushed into the various joints and left to dry. I know some must be apprehensive of bending the sub deck so it locks into position across the hull, but it really is just fine, and the deck sits 100% on all the bulkheads with no pinning needed whatsoever. Lastly, the lower stern shaping blocks and fillers are added. Next job is fairing, bulwarks and planking. Laterz!
  2. Fixed. This is a well-known quirk of operating through a proxy server here at MSW. If anyone ever gets this, just PM me the IP you see on the error message.
  3. The gunwales look like you didn't struggle too much. They look just perfect. Just a quick note to check this topic out for when your pictures are upside down:
  4. To remove dust, I have both a fat, stiff-bristled brush, and a make up brush. I wouldn't use something damp as it can lift grain and give a 'false reading', if that sounds right.
  5. This one is a 3D-printed hull and has some pear parts too. Only thing my friend added was some rudder hinges, though it's possible some cartridge paper will be included for making those.
  6. My workbench has been in some flux for a little while. While I've not been entirely unproductive, I had to wait for one of my completed builds to find its way to its new home before I could really work on anything. My man cave is a very small box room in a very small house, and the colder/wetter months stopped me spraying and sanding outside as an alternative. This delayed the release of the last two fishers as a result. I have been working on a couple of little boats for he VM range, and also Chuck's 1:48 Winchelsea capstan, which I'll return to over the next weeks. Indefatigable hasn't begun yet as I need to concentrate my efforts into this boat, plus the two ship's boats I'm working on. Indy work (guns) will resume fairly soon. Ok, excuses over. Saucy Jack: A well smack was a type of traditional fishing boat in use between the late 18th century and around 1920. It had a well amidships. The well was filled with circulated external water, which kept fish alive until delivered to land and sold. It was a modified form of a fishing smack. Between roughly 1775 and 1875, "well smack" referred to a 50-foot gaff cutter used in long-lining for cod, ling, turbot, and other bottom-living sea fish. These vessels were also known as cod boats. From roughly 1875 to 1920, they were extended to make 80-foot gaff ketches, sometimes by the cut-and-shut procedure. Some were built as new 80-foot welled smacks; some were turned into dry ships for use with ice. (taken from wiki) At the moment, all I can claim to have done is my initial dry fit of the hull frames, proving how things fit together. I've built so many of these fishers now that I can do this without referring to anything 😆. Here you see the skeleton, but with the little boat sat on it. This will be supplied with the kit, and this one has been assembled and painted by a friend of mine who hasn't dabbled in wooden/resin ships before. The interior is done with oil paints, but we'll look at this later in the build. Tonight I expect to start the proper photos for the hull instructions.
  7. Lord knows how I missed this topic. You really are doing a darn fine job of her. She's looking real nice, and that ain't just an 'attaboy' either. 💯
  8. Getting that hull to the point I was happy with it, took the best part of a week. Constant sanding, filling, sanding, filling, touch-ups etc. It's hard work, but it is worth the effort.
  9. She's looking real nice. Sorry I was only just alerted to this log by @chris watton. You'll find this one an easy rig too. Looking forward to seeing her complete.
  10. If you are receiving updates about it, then you'll need to 'unfollow'. If that's not the case, just scroll on by and ignore the topic.
  11. We've plenty of Vanguard kit logs here and you'll get some first-hand help too from others including Chris and myself. You can look at the instructions online at their site and some abridged prototype build logs in my MSW signature, below.
  12. You can just run a steam iron over the sails and the creases disappear instantly. When applying dye, you'll need to scrunch them up anyway to remove any remaining dye and water before letting them dry. That's when I use the steam iron, with the sails protected between a couple of pieces of paper towel.
  13. Most difficult? Has she tried an Aeropiccolo kit?
  14. That really is coming together really well. The deck is quite a perfect fit when located into the slot at each bulkhead ear. Sounds like you handled that nicely.
  15. As this is a VM-product topic, you'll now be able to check out the link for the new, more refined 22ft cutter hull. On the site right now! 😉😚
  16. No changes have been made to MSW whatsoever, except for a cache setting in our Sucuri panel, which is now reverted. Again, clear cache/cookies. I suggest if you use an old bookmark to access the site, remove it and create a new one with a clean history visit.
  17. All I can suggest for this is you clear cache/cookies and force refresh the site. I have no other answers, but doing all those should fix your problem.
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