James H

Could be a theme thing, but no, we don't go out of our way to make things difficult for you. It could be the way your own browser interprets our theme too. There are no colours or settings that we have ever changed that alter the colour of the scroll bar. Period. Also remember, Windows is the system you operate. For others, like me, it's MacOS. There are no specifics for changing stuff like this to some Microsoft standard. Try MSW on a different browser, just to see if it looks different. Either way, we can't change what you experience on your computer with your system/installed software. I don't also take too well to people calling any choices perhaps made as 'asinine'. Perhaps your rhetoric needs changing instead of a scroll bar colour.

Looking real nice. Noted your fix at the front too, so that'll be a help if anyone experiences that. I worked to the last production prototype that was changed for parts that were amended, and this was my build in that area. Some things are unfathomable 🤣

I did the instructions for Lady Eleanor. That is a very simple kit which you would find to be a nice subject to cut your teeth on. Timber is also pearwood, hence the relative pricing. A very sweet kit indeed.

As well as removing char, you also need to smooth out the rough surface that the laser creates. I can't see anything other than sanding or scraping which will magically reduce any workload on char removal. Even if you could dissolve the char, the rough surface would still remain.

Just use a 15cm steel rule (or similar), wrapped in 400 grit paper. Take your time.

These things are ordered as single pieces after the 3D guy sculpts it, then moulds have to be prepared. To create a set with separate parts would probably cost you more than a Sphinx kit due to the work involved, all the separate moulds and also the casting.

All you need is a 000 or 0000 size brush to fix those. That's exactly how I fixed my gold run-off. Don't make things too complicated for yourself with trying to recreate from separate components.

Only just stumbled on this build, so now following along. Outstanding craftsmanship and subject. A large model too. 😵

Nice, tidy job. I hate filler, so I know what you mean.

That looks real nice.

All gold ornamentation was painted with Vallejo. Scrollwork was sprayed with a gold rattle can and then sealed with acrylic clear coat to stop it coming off on my fingers.

Nope, I'm not thriving for a level I can never achieve, and nowhere have I ever stated that.....ever. My aim is to do the very best I can and not to cut corners if it can be helped. That's just making the most of our own skills and learning some new ones to better the outcome. For char removal, I use a combo of sanding sticks, sanding sponges and a 6inch steel rule with 400 grade paper wrapped around it. For the record, I don't think anyone needs to calm down. I can't see anyone getting angry at the moment. Just crack on with your builds!

Hi Glenn, I think Chuck's comments are more borne out of frustration that you could all make your models so much better looking with almost zero extra effort. It's not a case of using advanced skills. These are very basic skills, and I have to admit that I can't understand those who wouldn't want to use those very basic skills. Yes, it's a hobby! But why shouldn't someone want to do their very best in that hobby, even if they know they won't ever produce museum quality models. I know that I never will, but would hate to think I spent my free time creating something I knew could be better with no extra skills needed other than the very basic. Why shouldn't we do our very best.....even in a hobby? Because it's a hobby, it doesn't mean we should ever be tardy in our efforts, or cut corners in some mad rush to get to a finish line. If I only ever built one model again, I'd rather it was the very best I could achieve, than a dozen I was less proud of. I should be proud of showing my work, even if only average, to anyone who wanted to see it....including visitors to my home. Please take Chuck's words as more an effort to nudge folks into using the very basic skills, and not jumpstarting you into becoming the next David Antscherl or Harold Hahn. That wasn't the intention. He certainly wasn't there to belittle. Some things are so glaringly obvious that I have to ask myself sometimes why they were left in all their non-glory. As a member of said 'admin team', and someone who helped Chris with this development, I feel I had to reply. Until now, I've kept quiet publicly.

Are you tapering any of those planks?You'll never get them to fit around the bow otherwise. I see plank(s) that aren't sitting on the bulkheads. How well did you fair the frames?

Maybe a half plank strip top and bottom of that 'inner' part?

It's no biggie. You can (possibly) extend lower counter, or scrap it and build from planking strips.

It definitely needs to be higher. Approx 2mm above height of bulwarks. There's a note in the instructions about this and the need for the lower counter to be in the correct position.

That's a real nice appraisal/semi-review. Thanks for posting that!

I used the holes on mine, and also added more, so don't worry about it. A lick of filler in each hole and a 2 second sanding is all it needs to totally hide them. Remember though, some holes are for scuppers.

At this stage, I envisage it being new year before any further work can start. That's fine with me as it gives me a small break after my Vanguard Models stuff, before I dive back into this. I was looking through my files tonight and found 3 pics that Chris did of the original prototype. I'm not sure if these have been seen before, so I'll add them to my log so you can see what to expect as this progresses.

You're wrapping that around a compound curve, and there are small holes to allow you to pin it to the hull while it dries out. Alternatively, you can use elastic bands or tape to hold it around the the hull curve that affects the narrow width of the part while it dries.

That looks really nice!

That's a perfect summary.

That's quite possible. What would be the next step from a D5100 that would include such a feature.....but won't bankrupt me? The D850 you mention? That's probably more than I can stretch to.

I need to see if my D5100 does this. At the moment I'm doing the photos manually and stacking in Photoshop.