James H

Use whatever works for you. There are no rules. If you use CA on stuff that has tension etc., just use regular viscosity so it seeps into the joint. Use sparingly so the majority soaks in and doesn't look rough. If you get any residue etc., then use a little black acrylic to touch up and hide.

That's PayPal who do that, and not Chris. Depending on your region, that option WILL be available to you. When you choose that option, Chris is paid in full, and your contract is then with Paypal.

Ranger is now completed. It's taken me well over 2 weeks longer than I expected due to illness, hospital etc! This has been a beautiful model to build and very, very easy. Nothing here is at all taxing and she's perfect for anyone who's never built a model before, as are all the fisher kits. I do very much like this one though. I do find them easy after doing six of the fishers though! Anyway, here we go. These photos are very self-explanatory. Here she is, now finished. The little boat on deck does come with the kit too.

I use thinned PVA for mine. Just a drop of water in a little squeeze bottle filled with PVA.

Also remember, the decor, pillars and relief will be ochre on a black background.

Out of a potential 16kg pack, the mast/rig stuff isn't going to make much of a dent in things.

You'll see a few new techniques in Indy too, such as for the construction of the cathead knees. You'll see more when that time comes

That's coming on real well 🤗

No probs, John.

Hull length is around 880mm, I'm told. (minus bowsprit)

This photo gives a rough idea of the size of Indefatigable to Amati's 1:64 Victory.

In all fairness, can that engraving be trusted as evidence? After all, it shows round gun ports on the quarter too. Also all main gun deck ports seems to be lidded on that illustration.

That really is a very pretty little model.

That is a certainty! The manual for Sphinx is 152 pages with about 1000 photos and 27500 words. Over 900 construction stages. I think Indy will easily top that with another 50+ pages. It remains to be seen yet, but there are no corners being cut whatsoever.

Continued. I've grouped most of these photos into thickness of sheet, and there are a lot of various thicknesses with multiple sheets for them. You can see the tabbed gun carts here too. Those tabs are on the forward 'bulkhead', closest to the inner bulwarks. You're going to have to make FIVE ship's boats for this one! Inner bulwarks are split into three sections to cover the entire length. There will also be doorways from the cabin into the quarter galleries. 3D printed stuff, like belfry, anchors etc. and I do see some copper tape there too. Quirks of prototyping. Various cabin floor sections. LOTS of strip too. Decals for name and depth markings. Also, there is no white edge on that text. It's merely the light catching the ink edging! I have checked.

Time for a quick update. This will be the last one before work starts very shortly. I'm making this update over TWO posts due to number of pics. These are just camera photos and won't represent anything you see in the manual. Indy turned up with UPS this morning, and the box is large and heavy. In fact, the box isn't large enough yet as the masting, rigging, manual and plans also need to be included, as well as PE etc. The box was packed out as it was. This one took up two seats on my sofa. Take a look through and you'll notice some little things here and there. One of those is that the main gun deck carriages are tabbed so they slot into the deck and can't be knocked free later in the build. This is only an optional feature as the modeller can, if they wish, plank over the tab slots and remove the tab from the carriage. That would be up to the individual but this is a perfectly good solution that will be invisible when implemented. If also means the guns will be perfectly spaced too and the barrels therefore evenly protrude from the hull. Those barrels will also be fitted after the hull is painted, so attaching them later won't dislodge a gun cart. This is the engraved maple deck which won't be included as standard, unlike the other kits. This kit will have traditional planks for the deck, but it is quite likely that this option will be provided on release. If that happens, then the gun carriage location slots aren't likely to be there, and you'll simply open them up if you want use that kit feature. Oh, these parts are BIG!! My cutting mat is in 1cm squares, as a guide. Not fantastically clear here, but the ply sub decks are engraved with planks. This isn't the finish. It's designed to give you a template onto which to lay the kit planks. That will save the modeller having to mark up stuff themselves.

I don't really use much in the way of tools for what I do. To build VM prototype kits, I use: Scalpel knife sanding block and sandpaper tweezers steel rule clamps - 2inch and 4inch nail pusher pin vice with selection of drills long nose pliers needle files waterline marker I do have a plank nipper for occasional stuff, but really use it. They are cheap enough though. Most of what you see there is very basic and quite inexpensive.

lol! I really don't think that's the remit of any kit! I've certainly never, ever seen that from any manufacturer.

Just click the 'Reply to this topic' you see in this screenshot in the same way you replied to this topic you created. That applies throughout the site.

That looks real good Tom. I hope your supply issues are sorted very soon.

Member banned. Previously registered under different name and banned for supporting piracy.

Member banned. Previously registered under different name and banned for supporting piracy.

Eugen, that looks superb and beautifully clean work. When do you think this one will be finished?

One of your pics is missing. Seems to be linked to an account at Microsoft. You can upload all your pics to MSW so you won't lose any or have broken links.

Just sand and fill, sand and fill. Most of this is under paint anyway and if you're unhappy with anything above paint areas, you can always extend the scheme a little. That's not looking too bad at all. Use your fingers to feel for imperfections, then sand as you feel anything.