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James H

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Everything posted by James H

  1. James H
    Check my response above.
  2. James H
    Try force refreshing site. I also just cleared cache on site.
  3. James H
    I've also cleared system cache too, just to be on safe side.
  4. James H
    Force refresh the site.
  5. James H
    Ok, I've tried, unsuccessfully, to replicate an error. If you have had this problem, please can you PM me only with the following information, as it makes it easier than trawling through one large conversation: 1. How many photos did you last upload to get the error? 2. How long have you experienced this error for? 3. What image format are you uploading (jpeg, jpg, JPG etc.)? 4. Are you experiencing the problem on UPLOAD or after, when you click the SUBMIT button? Please don't supply any other info unless you think it's relevant. I'm going to lock this topic now as this is the only way to look at data from individuals about this problem.
  6. James H
    Yes, but does this, from memory, go back further than early December?
  7. James H
    One thing is for certain, nothing has actually changed here with regard to software updates since December 8th. Are these problems from that point or going back way further?
  8. James H
    Not long to go then I'm about to start a couple of little boats and the next fisher in the series.
  9. James H
    There's hardly any taper on these. I just spun it in my fingers and sanded with a block 😁
  10. James H
    It is still there. I'm still currently trying to fathom it out. Whatever the problem is, it's likely a host issue setting that needs to be fathomed, or it could be caused by our Sucuri proxy. This will take some time, especially as it's now Christmas and I have numerous other family commitments that will take priority. For the time, just keep re-uploading any failed images.
  11. James H
    Ok, I'll look more closely at this tonight.
  12. James H
    That's looking real nice without a doubt. One way of stopping bleed around masking like that is to first apply a little thinned varnish to the paint area after masking, so the varnish creates a seal the paint can't bleed through.
  13. James H
    Try uploading your photos in smaller batches and let us know how it goes.
  14. James H
    I'm sorry Chuck, I no longer have the completed model.
  15. James H
    Great to see this lovely little boat getting some attention. Just a quick observation, those MDF blocks that fill between bulkheads 1 & 2, and those that sit in front of bulkhead 1, then do need to be shaped/bevelled more than in this picture. Those should be sanded down more in profile with the adjoining bulkhead bevels: If that fore block isn't tapered more, the planks would need to be bent around a curve to reach the stem, or they would sit over it and terminate too far forward. This is the pic I did for the manual:
  16. James H
    That looks gorgeous, Tom. The MSW review will be online in the next week or so, as I finally settle down for Christmas.
  17. James H
    Only a little update as my workshop is a little indisposed at the moment, plus I'm heavily into a PlayStation game too. 😆 I really do like the colour of the timber in this little kit. The fest parts to use are for making the lower capstan. The column sections are first slid onto the 1/16 square strip. Note the thicker one sits at the end. These are then glued to each other, but NOT the strip! Aligning these is easy as you simply align the edges which have the connection tabs present. When dry, the narrow edges are cleaned up and evened out. These will be visible between the chocks. Now onto the whelps. This sheet is engraved on both sides to accommodate the chocks. As we all know, removing char is important 😉 The char on the outside edges of these is now carefully removed. More as soon as I can get back into my workshop!
  18. James H
    Looking forward to seeing you work on this lovely little boat 😃
  19. James H
    Vanguard Models have some lovely 1:64 Scottish and English fishing boats with gorgeous detail. You can look at the manuals on their site. All are aimed at the total beginner but with details that would look perfect on something more complex. Check out Erycina, Nisha, Fifie and Zulu on this page: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product-category/vanguard-model-kits/ Also, you can look at the build logs in my signature. All kits are planked in pear wood, as well as other details in it, plus have maple, laser-engraved decks.
  20. James H
    Just get in there with some dilute acrylic wood filler, applied with a brush. Let it dry, sand then lightly re-coat. Repeat until happy 😉
  21. James H
    Ok, fixed.
  22. James H
    Can we steer this topic back to what it was, and not skirt around politics please...
  23. James H
    That's looking spot on, Maurice. Don't worry too much about accidentally filling the engraved lines when painting. I did mine with a rattle can and you can still very clearly see the lines.
  24. James H
    CAF are legitimate. In fact, we'll have a review for Parts 1 & 2 of their 1:48 HMS Granado POF on MSW very soon.
  25. James H
    To be honest, I'd struggle to, any more than I did for Flirt, Duchess etc. They are all very similar in execution, especially Duchess which as the same tuck at the stern. Sphinx is no different to fair than most any other similar ship. I just have a plank I lay around at various positions to see how it meets up with the bulkheads. For the stern, curl a plank at the end and again, test the flow around the tuck etc. Out of all the models I've built for VM in the last 2yrs, Sphinx has probably been the very easiest of them to fair, probably even more so than Duchess.

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