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James H

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Everything posted by James H

  1. I was going to do these with just my hand at the end of the hull, but thought these gave a better sense of proportion!
  2. This photo shows the standard ply engraved section for the lower deck. As I've said, you'll be hard pressed to see this stuff, unless you're an ant that's crawled in. But in case you are, or have that endoscope I mentioned, the detail is there in part. Here you see the ply engraved part along with the optional maple deck section which I have opted to use for this build. The deck section is now glued into place. Two, 2-part grates are now built and added. And of course, you'll need some steps down to the dinky orlop deck. These two beams are now added, again without glue. These two beams hole them firmly in place and are located with two pegs each, glued into the slots. And lastly for this update, a whole raft of deck beams are fitted between those two longitudinal parts. Until next time!
  3. Work has now begun. First, the obligatory disposable cradle shot 😃 Indy certainly isn't short of bulkheads. There are 18 in total, with #9 midships being a double layer bulkhead. There are no bevel marks on Indy. They simply aren't needed for a kit of this level. Fairing will be an easy task. All bulkheads are 4mm MDF, as is the keel. The keel slots are numbered too so you get things in the right place. Indy is a strange build in that practically all you see in this update, with the exception of lower deck/orlop detail, can be assembled initially with no glue. All bulkheads you see being added here are put into position as such. Now this is where the magic happens. Once all bulkheads (apart from #1, #2, #15, #16, #17 and #18 because they aren't needed yet) are slotted into their position, these keel doublers are added, bulking out the keel to 12mm! What these do is to hold the bulkheads in their exact position. while pegs slot through the holes to lock everything into position. Zero glue apart from the pegs themselves. Bulkheads #15, #16 and #17 are now added because the fairing parts will now lock them into position as with the other bulkheads. Bulkheads #1 and #2 are now fitted, but NO GLUE at this time. The fairing patterns are now added. You will see these as No.s 37, 38 and 39. Like the others, these are pegged into place. Is there an orlop deck? There certainly is. This is it 😆 Nothing more is needed. In fact, you'll probably not even see this without an endoscope. This part is glued into place. The 3mm MDF sub deck is now fitted. Care needs to be taken around the bulkhead ears. You should have no problem....just don't go charging in. To fit this, I ran some Titebond down the 12mm wide keel centreline. Nothing here needed to be weighted down or pinned. It fit perfectly with a reassuring push. Pegs are now pushed into position which give a further aid to making sure everything is level. At this stage, things look like this:
  4. You should only need to search for data pertaining to this site, as I can on my Mac:
  5. I will do some day, but they are all in attic storage at moment and its more effort than I have strength for at moment.
  6. Ok. We've had no system software changes at all for a while now, and as this seems to be very unusual, I can only surmise that the problem lies at your side. Please try to clear your browser cache and cookies, then restart your browser. This will force MSW to reload for you and not from a copy stored on your computer. Give that a try and see if it works.
  7. Use whatever works for you. There are no rules. If you use CA on stuff that has tension etc., just use regular viscosity so it seeps into the joint. Use sparingly so the majority soaks in and doesn't look rough. If you get any residue etc., then use a little black acrylic to touch up and hide.
  8. That's PayPal who do that, and not Chris. Depending on your region, that option WILL be available to you. When you choose that option, Chris is paid in full, and your contract is then with Paypal.
  9. Ranger is now completed. It's taken me well over 2 weeks longer than I expected due to illness, hospital etc! This has been a beautiful model to build and very, very easy. Nothing here is at all taxing and she's perfect for anyone who's never built a model before, as are all the fisher kits. I do very much like this one though. I do find them easy after doing six of the fishers though! Anyway, here we go. These photos are very self-explanatory. Here she is, now finished. The little boat on deck does come with the kit too.
  10. I use thinned PVA for mine. Just a drop of water in a little squeeze bottle filled with PVA.
  11. Out of a potential 16kg pack, the mast/rig stuff isn't going to make much of a dent in things.
  12. You'll see a few new techniques in Indy too, such as for the construction of the cathead knees. You'll see more when that time comes
  13. In all fairness, can that engraving be trusted as evidence? After all, it shows round gun ports on the quarter too. Also all main gun deck ports seems to be lidded on that illustration.
  14. That is a certainty! The manual for Sphinx is 152 pages with about 1000 photos and 27500 words. Over 900 construction stages. I think Indy will easily top that with another 50+ pages. It remains to be seen yet, but there are no corners being cut whatsoever.
  15. Continued. I've grouped most of these photos into thickness of sheet, and there are a lot of various thicknesses with multiple sheets for them. You can see the tabbed gun carts here too. Those tabs are on the forward 'bulkhead', closest to the inner bulwarks. You're going to have to make FIVE ship's boats for this one! Inner bulwarks are split into three sections to cover the entire length. There will also be doorways from the cabin into the quarter galleries. 3D printed stuff, like belfry, anchors etc. and I do see some copper tape there too. Quirks of prototyping. Various cabin floor sections. LOTS of strip too. Decals for name and depth markings. Also, there is no white edge on that text. It's merely the light catching the ink edging! I have checked.
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