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James H

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  1. James H
    Try uploading your photos in smaller batches and let us know how it goes.
  2. James H
    I'm sorry Chuck, I no longer have the completed model.
  3. James H
    Great to see this lovely little boat getting some attention. Just a quick observation, those MDF blocks that fill between bulkheads 1 & 2, and those that sit in front of bulkhead 1, then do need to be shaped/bevelled more than in this picture. Those should be sanded down more in profile with the adjoining bulkhead bevels: If that fore block isn't tapered more, the planks would need to be bent around a curve to reach the stem, or they would sit over it and terminate too far forward. This is the pic I did for the manual:
  4. James H
    That looks gorgeous, Tom. The MSW review will be online in the next week or so, as I finally settle down for Christmas.
  5. James H
    Only a little update as my workshop is a little indisposed at the moment, plus I'm heavily into a PlayStation game too. 😆 I really do like the colour of the timber in this little kit. The fest parts to use are for making the lower capstan. The column sections are first slid onto the 1/16 square strip. Note the thicker one sits at the end. These are then glued to each other, but NOT the strip! Aligning these is easy as you simply align the edges which have the connection tabs present. When dry, the narrow edges are cleaned up and evened out. These will be visible between the chocks. Now onto the whelps. This sheet is engraved on both sides to accommodate the chocks. As we all know, removing char is important 😉 The char on the outside edges of these is now carefully removed. More as soon as I can get back into my workshop!
  6. James H
    Looking forward to seeing you work on this lovely little boat 😃
  7. James H
    Vanguard Models have some lovely 1:64 Scottish and English fishing boats with gorgeous detail. You can look at the manuals on their site. All are aimed at the total beginner but with details that would look perfect on something more complex. Check out Erycina, Nisha, Fifie and Zulu on this page: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product-category/vanguard-model-kits/ Also, you can look at the build logs in my signature. All kits are planked in pear wood, as well as other details in it, plus have maple, laser-engraved decks.
  8. James H
    Just get in there with some dilute acrylic wood filler, applied with a brush. Let it dry, sand then lightly re-coat. Repeat until happy 😉
  9. James H
    Ok, fixed.
  10. James H
    Can we steer this topic back to what it was, and not skirt around politics please...
  11. James H
    That's looking spot on, Maurice. Don't worry too much about accidentally filling the engraved lines when painting. I did mine with a rattle can and you can still very clearly see the lines.
  12. James H
    CAF are legitimate. In fact, we'll have a review for Parts 1 & 2 of their 1:48 HMS Granado POF on MSW very soon.
  13. James H
    To be honest, I'd struggle to, any more than I did for Flirt, Duchess etc. They are all very similar in execution, especially Duchess which as the same tuck at the stern. Sphinx is no different to fair than most any other similar ship. I just have a plank I lay around at various positions to see how it meets up with the bulkheads. For the stern, curl a plank at the end and again, test the flow around the tuck etc. Out of all the models I've built for VM in the last 2yrs, Sphinx has probably been the very easiest of them to fair, probably even more so than Duchess.
  14. James H
    It looks like you need to fair those rear bulkheads more, without doubt. Also, I note you faired without adding the inner bulwarks first. Those bulwarks provide some real strength to the frames, prior to sanding the exterior which will inevitably reduce the thickness a little. Those bulwarks also reduce any chance of snapping or flexing of the frames. Was there a reason for your sequence? Also, this image from the instructions shows the fairing of those rear frames:
  15. James H
    As I'm now on a brief respite from my usual stuff, I thought I'd fill in a little time with the HMS Winchelsea Double Capstan kit that I got from Syren a while ago. I'll work on this between killing aliens on my PlayStation and other important daily stuff 😁 This is a pic of the kit contents, minus the black filament that is used for the bolt heads. The first task was to gently clean up any surface scorch from the laser. Thankfully, there's very little, and I used both 320 and 400 grit paper to finish the surfaces. I'll be working on this over the next days and weeks.
  16. James H
    We'll check that out. Thanks for the heads up.
  17. James H
    And now the swan-song for this lovely little build. These will be released within a couple of weeks. It's as close to giving birth as I can get 😆 Unlike Nisha, there are two masts to make here, but the mizzen is just a single piece of tapered dowel. The only difference between this and Nisha is that the mizzen carries another sail and also needs some simple shrouds and rats installing. To fit the bowsprit, the opening needs elongating. I used some 3mm dowel wrapped in 180 grit paper. This was tested until I got a nice fit with the bowsprit. If you buy the optional sail set, you will need to fit the sails before masting. Note that I dyed the sails in dark brown, which was quite typical for a working vessel of this period. Those shrouds and rats are so easy, as you can see. A ratline spacing template is provided on the plans, making this a whole lot easier for you. No one wants an MDF stand when the acrylic is far nicer. Here is the stand, complete with keel plug to make sure the model is properly aligned to waterline for display. And the finals! Thanks for checking in. Watch out for release very soon.
  18. James H
    As you've possibly already seen, Nisha is complete, so here are the final pics as the kit is now nearly ready for release. Building the masts for this is so easy....as there's only ONE 😁 There is a little stepping in diameter to be done, but only a 30 minute job. The mast is then fitted out with blocks, ready for the sails to be added before masting to hull. Of course, the bowsprit opening needs elongating. I used some 3mm dowel, wrapped in 180 grit paper. Worked a treat. The sail set is optional, and I dyed this is RIT dye, using more more than I did for the previous fishers. Time to mast! Yes, there are some shrouds and rat here, but they are just so very simple and perfect for a newcomer to tackle. The plans also include a template for ratline spacing. Just paste to some card, and you're good to go. Here she is, all complete. Just the acrylic stand to build. And....my final pics! Thanks for watching. Nisha will be released within the next couple of weeks.
  19. James H
    Not using the acrylic one? It's a million times better than the MDF 🤣
  20. James H
    Remember that adding any paint to the cradle at this stage risks it coming off on a painted white hull, whilst you are needing as solely a building aid.
  21. James H
    The kit, I believe, is supposed to be based on Hahn plans. It's also produced by Unicorn, who are known IP thieves, so the subject matter is irrelevant. I'm afraid that if you openly buy that kit, then you will lose your MSW privileges/membership.
  22. James H
    You could always use dabs of CA gel, but I always want a maximum contact for this stuff, so opted for wood glue. This was applied liberally and quickly before then being weighted under my 'Third Reich, Then and Now' book.
  23. James H
    Yes, the hull was primed and painted white, then the flex tape was run along the waterline, just under the masking tape. That kept the strip white while I sprayed red oxide onto hull.
  24. James H
    The main sail housing is now fitted. All of these items have either engraved lines or slots for fitting. After priming, all the 3D parts were painted in green, to match Erycina's outer bulwark. You can use whatever colour you like, but this sort of green was quite common for the period. And of course, the steam winch. This is exactly the same sort fitted to Nisha. Deck fittings ongoing. Three chimneys on this one, as opposed to two on Nisha. This one is quite a bit larger than Nisha, and looks more purposeful, in my opinion. Both are quite beautiful though. The next log entry here will be the last for Erycina, in around a week.
  25. James H
    As with Nisha, the inner bulwarks are engraved with timberhead positions, with the first being 'A'. The pre-cut timberheads just need cleaning up and the bottom bevelled accordingly. More fitting out as the stern 'bench' is fitted. Where timberheads are fitted with a rail, they are adjoined with a temporary beam which makes sure the spacings are correct for these. Once in place and dry, the beam can be snipped away. A sanding stick makes short work of neatening up the tops of the bulwarks, levelling them in relation to each other. Before the gunwales are fitted, the model is masked and the upper bulwarks airbrushed in green. Gunwales now fitted. Before we splash some real colour onto the hull, a waterline is first added which runs along the top line of the white boot. Prep is king here as the hull is filled and sanded. Any imperfections are fixed. A coat of primer is added and it that shows anything further, that is also fixed until I'm happy with the result. This could take all day to do but it's worth the effort. After a final coat of white, 3mm flexible tape is added along the edge of the masking and the hull then sprayed in red oxide. When even and dry, all tape is removed. 🐟 enter here ➡️ Stairway to heaven. And a nice companionway to gimme shelter. Main sheet housing assembly.

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