James H

STAGE 61: FIREWALL A nice looking part, but literally nothing to do until.... STAGE 62: SPEAKER AND SPEAKER HOLDER Now the firewall can be populated with components, but first, the speaker is installed.

STAGE 59: FUEL PUMPS, PIPES, TRUNK HINGE & LOCK Trunk detail is now added with the two fuel pumps and their plumbing. This all fits superbly with too awkwardness, and exactly as shown. The pics in the instructions are quite small so it took a moment to fathom which pump was which. The true support is now fitted, albeit it drops off quite easily but think that will be sorted in a later issue. STAGE 60: REAR FENDER PART & CABLE HOLDER The rear fender is another large part and this now bolts to the tank and truck assembly after first threading the specific cables through the correct fender opening. A cable clip is now used to channel all wiring into the same locale.

Pack 8 This pack came together quite quickly, and didn't need the chassis at this time, so all work was a lot smaller and concentrated on the fuel tank and electronics, plus some cockpit elements. STAGE 57: FUEL TANK STAGE 58: REAR TRUNK This is the main part of the fuel tank that we started earlier, and bolted the electronics into . Now we can complete the tank and route the cables appropriately. I just hope the boards all work well as there's no test for it before encasing inside the car. Specific cables pass through specific openings, and the whole assembly screw tightly shut. STAGE 58: REAR TRUNK The boot, as we call it in the UK, is now tackled. The rear panel first screws to the main section. The completed fuel tank now bolts to the underside. Be careful no wires are trapped anywhere here.

Some pictures of the problem would be good to see where you're at.

It's designed to be as easy to build as possible. With a couple of builds under your belt, you should have no problem with this. I'd say that in comparison to Flirt or Duchess, this is no harder....there's just more of it. There's also refinements in these designs as they're released, and also during this specific build. There have been numerous changes that I've discussed with Chris and he's implemented them, reducing as many of the possible pitfalls as you can on a wooden model.

Not yet, but Amati have been in contact and want this to progress very shortly. I know they've had other priorities with Bismarck and also the effects the pandemic has had on their production, but watch this space.

This update takes me up to hull completion (apart from fitting the lanterns and quarterdeck hammock cranes which will be fitted later). Work starts on fitting out the forecastle deck, fitting out with the hatch assembly, belfry, fore bitts cross beams and the breast beam rails. Of course, there's those catheads which need fitting. These are designed with engravings that mean each cathead is an easy, multipart assembly, and they look rather nice when built up. Opening up the bulwark holes for the catheads was the longest task here, taking about 90 mins in total, but they fit superbly. Ok, back onto the quarterdeck, fitting the stairs I made much earlier in this build. The same goes for my capstan and hatch assembly. The ship's wheel unit is something I made up in the last week, and that goes nicely into position. Now, the quarterdeck breast beam rails are installed. These did look fiddly, but they fit together as easy as Lego! That's right down to installing the PE hammock cranes through all slots in each layer. When complete, these are painted black. Time for timberheads! (and quarterdeck rail stanchions). Followed by the rails: Off to the other end of Sphinx now as I build up the head rails. These are made from laminated pear and the top of these are shaped as I did with the timberheads on the gunwales. Those 'seats of ease' are also installed. Remember those cannon port lids? Here they are, finally installed. The boat beams are now slightly different to the ones I used as they are engraved with the positions of the specific boat cradles, making things a little easier for the builder. The mounts for the beams are cast in a tough resin, attached with CA once I'd measured the 'between centres' to the holes in the gangways. Hammock cranes are now installed and rigged. The boomkins and figurehead parts are fitted, completing this update... Here's a few pics of the build so far. Tomorrow I'll be sending Chris a pen drive with over 830+ photos and 24,000 words of text. Your instruction manual will be epic, in every sense of the word 😆

I really MUST source some of those in the UK!

There's so many tasks on a model which some modellers with either: Fail at. Hate. This is designed to still be something you build and not just 'assemble', but at the same time, it's also designed to make those build tasks a little easier and in many cases, quicker. It's still not a model you can just jump into and build in a couple of months. I've been on this 12 weeks now, and I've still about 5 more to go, give or take. I know that I also work full time and have been creating content for a manual that will around 900 images and 20,000+ words, but I do work relatively quickly as I need to......Chris needs to be able to bring income from this intensive period of design and prototype build. Sorry about lack of update today. I sort of underestimated the list of last tasks to complete the hull. I'm working on this tonight and rest of tomorrow night too.

I definitely wouldn't think so.

That's looking perfect to me. Nice call on the bending former too.

I'm hoping to make an update on Monday with a completed hull, fingers crossed.

Yup. My basic formula is a 50:50 paint to thinners. If enamel, I think a little more.

Here's my speckled and toy-like airbrush result To be honest, if that's what you're getting or seen, it's because the paint isn't being thinned enough. I work almost exclusively in acrylics now, and this Typhoon was done entirely in acrylic.

That's looking real good. No probs so far?

I'm always a sucker for the hard way, so for me, I'd carve it out and finish with some sandpaper wrapped around a steel rule.

Machine à curer les ports (A Harbour Dredge) English edition Written and prepared by Gérard Delacroix Published and available from Ancre for €59,00 (with 1:36 plans) It’s ok having harbours, but over time, if not maintained, they’ll silt up and become unusable. Yes, they need to be dredged! It’s not the most glamourous task nor are the vessels which perform this vital function, generally thought of as subjects for the modeller’s bench. That’s why it’s great to see a title (monograph) which does look at a dredger in great detail and also furnishes us with a set of 1:36 plans so that the keen and able modeller can have a go at recreating one of these workhorses in miniature. Ancre’s title is nicely presented in a format slightly larger than A4, and as a simple folder with high grade satin, heavyweight paper. Sewn spine In Ancre’s words: “Ever since man created harbours, he was faced with the problem of their maintenance. To this end, he created a rather primitive machine, that in the end was fairly practical and already modern, since it has existed for three centuries without really evolving. The harbour dredge was only removed from ship basins with the arrival of steam and chain dredges. All along its lengthy existence, it maintained the kingdom's harbours so that the “Great Navy” could be maintained and resupplied in the best of conditions.” Details of this monograph: The work consists as a 72-page booklet which contains the description and the operation of the dredger as well as commentaries on the ten plates of drawings and on the 55 photos of a finished model. The plates are at the 1:36 scale and show every piece of the framework. 24 x 31 cm format, booklet and plans contained in an envelope with flaps, adorned with an illustration from one of the plates of Belidor's work. Booklet: Harbour dredges, history Auxiliary boats Description of a dredge Operation of the machine Commentaries on the ten plates of the monograph Ironwork – Paintwork Timber scantlings Photos of a 1/36 scale model by B. Rimlinger List of the 1/36-scale plates Schematic plan of the hull Drawings of the frames Construction of the hull Deck layout and lengthwise section Detail of the upperworks Outside view of the hull and fittings Cross-sections Detail of fittings Overhead view Overall elevation PLATES (Sample) Whilst 1:24 plans are also now available, the supplied 1:36 will help you build a model of these dimensions: Length: 57cm Width: 23cm Height: 21cm This pack, like any monograph, is intended to help the builder recreate an authentic replica of the subject at hand, with every detail shown on the ten plates (plans), including profiles, formers/bulkheads, dredge mechanism etc. All drawings are presented as fine-line and with a wonderful clarity. They are, of course, designed so you can take your dimensions directly from them. The dredger itself is a flat-bottomed vessel and doesn’t conform to the regular concept of building a ship. That it itself will make this a relatively easy project, and one that will prove to be a nice diversion from what will usually sit on your workbench. The proof of the pudding is in the eating, so they say, and the 72-page book shows many photos of this subject completed as a model. A number of full-colour plates in this book show the dredger from many angles which should provide inspiration enough for you to dip your toe into the murky harbour waters. The book itself excels in content with history thrown into the mix, as well as the technological challenges on a type of vessel which had served, until relatively recently, for a number of centuries. The book is also illustrated with more photos and drawings in black and white. Conclusion Whether a collector or a builder, this is a really nice title to have in your collection, and doubtless will be quite different to other monographs you may have. M. Delacriox has certainly taken a topic I would never have thought was of any interest and actually created an informative and readable tome, plus the drawings to build what is surely going to be one of the most unusual models in your collection. My sincere thanks to Ancre for the book reviewed here at Model Ship World. To buy directly, click the link at the top of this article.

Here's a couple I did on my phone late last night.

You can see some of that stuff through the deck cutouts, but not like an open deck ship such as Flirt.

As I'm about to fit out the upper deck shortly, here's an update on progress so far. Over the last week, I've concentrated on getting the quarterdeck and forecastle beams in place, plus the decks. All beams are lettered to ID them, along with the timber they sit onto. All you might have to do is bevel an occasional end to get it to conform to hull shape. Along with the deck beams on quarterdeck, I've also add the optional hanging knees. These won't be seen too easily, but I've installed them for the sake of the manual. All the beams are now fitted into place, along with the various carlings. Before fitting any deck, the beams and carlings are also added to the forecastle area. Note the anchor hawse that's now added and tied back inside the bow. After the beams are fitted, the MDF ears from above deck level, are removed. A drill bit is now wound with some medium grit paper and hand spun into the bowsprit hole, shaping this passage on the way down to the support which is plugged into the gun deck. This was a nice easy job due to the shape of parts and various cutouts. The 8mm dowel is then test fitted. Before I can lay the forecastle deck, the fore jeer bitts need to be installed. Again, this is a simply task. I only glue these in at deck point so I have some play in the vertical posts. The deck is supplied as 0.8mm maple veneer, laster etched. There is a ply part supplied as an alternative if you want to plank this yourself, but you'll need to source your own strip. Before the deck is glued, it's test fitted and sanded to make sure of an exact fit. Inner bulwarks are now added. First the 1.5mm ones that butt up against the MDF bow former, then the outer 0.6 ones that run full length. A sanding stick is then used to level up the tops of the bulwarks. Tape is laid down to protect the engraved deck and reduce any dust getting into the hull. Now it's the turn of the quarterdeck to be fitted. Note that the beams are sanded of char where they can be seen through the deck cutouts etc. The shallow bulwarks make the decks easy to 'pin' down around the edge using small clamps. Again, a sanding stick is used to level up the bulwark tops so the gunwales will be horizontal. Bulwarks now fitted... Seems such a shame to cover over so much of the detail, but now's time to cover yet more with the gangways. These are made from a layer of 0.8mm maple ply, with an underside in 0.6mm pear. The gangway is temporarily added to model and the position of the adjoining gunwale is marked at each end. The gunwale is then sat over the gangway and then an edge drawn along the gangway. That area, which will differ slightly on different builds, is then removed from the gangway so the gunwale will recess into it. All of the gangway knees are now painted and installed. Then the gangways can be fitted. I use a small weight in the centre of the gangways to hold them into the gentle curve they need along the top of the knees. Bulwark cleats are now added, as well as the stern knees. Before the stern knees are fitted, a 0.6mm drill is used to drill through two laser cut holes, to the outside stern. These are for mounting the lanterns. The knees will then cover the internal holes you drilled through. And for the time being, this is where I'm at. My apologies for the lighting on this photo. I'll be retaking this one tonight.

Those look beautiful. The box looks slightly paler.

That's nice looking work, David. Looks like those bevels are pitched just right too. So many slots on that framework and it all fits real nice. Superb job!

Correct, but only as far as forum usage goes. This area isn't for model-related questions.

Definitely watching

The Amati rope I have for Victory is actually very good. It's fuzz-free, a good colour and not too stiff.