James H

Hello Steve, It’s a great hobby, and very therapeutic. I started when I was just over 30yrs old, but I’ve had some time out, with me only just getting back into it again as I approach 50. I was also am engineer before I moved into education. Personally, I think that if you are engineer-minded, can take care and thought with your modelling, then Vanguard Models ‘HM Cutter Alert’ would be a perfect kit. It’s been designed by the best in the hobby….Chris Watton, and he’s a member of MSW also. He’s designed models for Caldercraft, Amati etc. in his time. Check out my review…..and yes, the model is double-plank. Also 18th Century. To purchase this kit, click this link: https://vanguardmodels.com/h-m-armed-cutter-alertstatic-2 There are two versions….one at £160 and one at £180. Take a look, but this looks to be in your price range. San Francisco II is by Artesania Latina. The company recently went defunct too, and I know the quality of their materials isn’t very good, and certainly not on par with what we expect today. I’d love to see you create a build log so we can follow along.

Just stunning. I like how you left those parts in bare wood. I think I'll do the same.

Such beautiful and precise work. This has been a joy to watch.

1:35 Knarr – 11thCentury Viking Ocean-Going Cargo Ship Dusek Ship Kits Catalogue # D007 Available from Dusek Models for €149,00 A knarr is a type of Norse merchant ship used by the Vikings and was constructed using the same clinker-built method as longships. ‘Knarr’ is the Old Norse term for a type of ship built for long sea voyages and used during the Viking expansion. The knarr was a cargo ship; the hull was wider, deeper and shorter than a longship, and could take more cargo and be operated by smaller crews. They were built with a length of about 16 m (54 ft), a beam of 5 m (15 ft), and a hull that was thought capable of carrying up to 24 tons. It was primarily used to transport trading goods like walrus ivory, wool, timber, wheat, furs and pelts, armour, slaves, honey, and weapons. It was also used to supply food, drink, weapons and armour to warriors and traders along their journeys across the Baltic, the Mediterranean and other seas. Knerrir (plural) routinely crossed the North Atlantic carrying livestock such as sheep and horses, and stores to Norse settlements in Iceland, Greenland and Vinland as well as trading goods to trading posts in the British Isles, Continental Europe and possibly the Middle East. They may have been used in colonising, although a similar small cargo vessel (the byrthing) is another possibility. Only one well-preserved knarr has been found, discovered in a shallow channel in Roskilde Fjord in Denmark in 1962. Known as Skuldelev 1, it was placed among two warships, a Baltic trader, and a ferryboat. Archaeologists believe that the ships were placed there to block the channel against enemy raiders. Today all five ships, known as the Skuldelev ships, are exhibited at the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde. The kit Dusek models manufacture three different types of Viking vessel of which this is just one. They are also available in 1:72 and 1:35 scales, with this review kit being in the latter scale. I’m unsure of the actual initial release date for this kit, but I can’t see any information going back further than a handful of years. For those who are space-conscious when it comes to starting new projects, then the Knarr shouldn’t be too hungry of your shelf real-estate, even in 1:35. Finished dimensions for this are given as: length: 440mm width: 300mm height: 400mm The model itself is quite a simple affair, by any standards, and is packaged into one of Dusek’s very sturdy and thick cardboard boxes with a nice glossy lid depicting three views of a completed model. I know the timber looks to have a strange finish, but it’s thought that Viking vessels were generally protected with a layer of tar, from around the 8thcentury. It could also be used to waterproof sails. The box model shows a suitably weathered Knarr that’s obviously been much used. Indeed, the model is also laden with cargo, which is also included in this kit. Inside the box, several sheets of laser-cut timber are wrapped in a layer of clingfilm, plus there is a bundle of dowel/strip, and a further bag of components. A single sheet plan, instruction manual, and a parts map complete the package. If you’ve read my review on Amati’s Viking longboat, then you’ll see that this ‘s construction is very similar to that in many respects. Construction begins by taking the false keel and slotting onto it the series of eighteen bulkheads. These bulkheads are flanked either side by the raised section of deck in their basic plywood form. The area between these deck sections is totally open, that is, simply the full depth of the hull. This was for storing cargo. Those ply sections are now sheathed in short lengths of planking. In this kit, these are supplied on the one thin sheet of pearwood veneer, and they really do look great. Another large frame section is then installed which encompasses both the cargo hold and raised deck sections. In all, that should provide a solid basis on which the next stage can be begin. That is the planking. Now, here’s where you see the similarity to the Amati kit, with the bulkheads that are channelled out for the planks, and those very planks are supplied pre-cut on three thin sheets of plywood. The shape of the hull with the curved and clinker-laid planks is quite obvious when you look at the shape of them on the sheets, and of course, you lay the lower, garboard plank first. You will need to refer to the parts map as no parts on this model are marked on the sheets themselves. With the planks, each sheet is also engraved with an arrow to identify the bow direction of the Knarr. One thing the model instructions doesn’t mention is any possible bevelling of the bulkheads prior to planking. You will need to check this as you begin the process by laying an initial plank and seeing how it fits. Before all planking is added, a series of keyed frames will be added to the cargo area, onto which the upper plank strakes will sit. In all, there are TEN sheets of timber here (9 x ply, 1 x pear), plus a nice little bundle of timber strip, all of high quality. Laser cutting, whilst leaving scorch marks, is very good, and of course, the hull will be finished in a colour to represent tar, so there’s no real need to start removing that char. Just get on and enjoy building the model. Masting and rigging a Knarr is quite simple. In fact, the model only has TWO wooden, double blocks! Thee mast only has five rigging points, and the single yard has just three, of which those two blocks are obviously used. Rigging cord is supplied and this has the natural appearance of the material, as it should, and with that brown hue that could be indicative of some previous tar application. Three sizes of cord are supplied on spool/card wraps. When it comes to sails, some almost pure white cloth is supplied, and the quality is excellent. You will need to use the drawings and instructions to make and sew your own finished items, and I also suggest you soak the finished items in some strong tea to age them and give them that appearance of worn tar. You could also dye them red, and then age by using the tea-dye trick. You’ll need to work on this aspect, as you would with any ship of this sort of antiquity. A cargo ship needs cargo, and there is plenty here in the form of crates and barrels. The crates much first be assembled as small plywood jigsaw puzzles and then swathed in some of that tea-aged fabric you used for the sails, creating a package. Some of the cord is then used to tie then up. Each barrel has to be constructed around a plywood core. Onto this sit the pearwood exterior parts, such as the engraved head parts and the staves. Dusek has finished item lashed with rope. I don’t know how accurate that would be (or strong enough in the real world!). You may wish to use some thin metal foil, painted. This model also contains a display stand within the sheet parts, again, shaped to accommodate the clinker planking. The instructions and manual are so simple to follow and should present the modeller with no problems. The English annotation is excellent. Conclusion This really is a lovely kit and will build up into a most unusual model. You really can let your imagination go as to how you finish this with regards to final appearance. Maybe time to watch the recent History Channel series, Vikingsand enjoy the stories of Ragnar Lothbrok. I’m pretty sure these vessels are in the series, so it’s a good excuse for some televisual research. Materials quality is excellent with no warping etc. and the sheet of pear for the deck planking and barrels is an unexpected bonus.If you want to see a Viking vessel that is more of a fighting and conquering classic, then we’ll be reviewing another Dusek kit in a couple of weeks or so. Stray tuned! Highly recommended. My sincere thanks to Dusek Models for the review sample seen here. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article.

Strangely enough, I already gave a total guess price of about €1500/£1500 somewhere else recently, as a non-scientific calculation.

My only struggle so far was the three-piece black veneer cap over the transom area. Thee veneer was so thin, that even with soaking and nipping, it kept splitting. Those short lengths have to do acrobatics by bending in different directions.

You can compare two models of different scales and by two different manufacturers? You could draw a comparison and make a guess, but it's not rocket science that your figure will be just that.....a total guess. Factor into that two different manufacturers with different pricing structures. Also, HMS Victory isn't about 50% bigger than Agamemnon in 1:64. It's only around 15% larger in length than Agamemnon.

I don't think it has much curvature. From photos I've seen and ones I've taken, it appears to have a gentle curve. I can also tell you, without doubt, that the model isn't too flat. Here's a couple of photos from the plans for this very kit... Be careful as some online photos look strange with fisheye effect. Here are some images I've trawled for you: THIS one appears to show it very curved, but it looks like it's fisheye as you can see it curve inwards at far outside edge.

Still following this great build as I work with my own Avos. Loving the updates 👍

That's some neat blackening. I have actual brass-black, and access to hydrochloric acid. I might play around with the chemistry a little. Thanks for the update.

That's unknown. Amati haven't released any European pricing for it yet, so determining Australian is a wild guess.

This is coming along so well. Not too far from the finishing line now, relatively 😁

I have a little 'stepping' of the planks at the bow so I may lose a few when I sand, but I can easily put them back. I didn't lose any at the stern, but that's because I sanded a little further than the laser line, after seeing your build log. I think it worked ok.

A full eleven days since my last update! Well, my workshop has been stifling hot, so I've not spent as much time there. Master Korabel produced a lovely kit with some nice builder details, such as the lines that you can join up with a pencil across the planks....only lightly though as we don't want to mark the surface irreversibly! These pencil lines help us place planks in relation too each other. With the hull sanded smooth, the pear wood second layer planking could begin. A Dremel was used at the 1st layer garboard plank, thinning it down to bleed between the planks and the false keel. A strip of pear was lined along the keel edge and the hull sanded into this, reducing the width of the keel joint so the second planking would sit up next to it. First of all.....a quick fit of the pear keep to make sure it fits properly. Ignore the space between the deck and inside bulwark. That's intentional and a waterway will fit there. Planking starts with the most important and keep plank which runs as the outside bulwark. This of course needs to be placed at the correct height etc. You can gauge this with the positions of the gun ports etc. but if like me, you were slightly out with some frames, then a small compromise needs to be made. Before the planks are added, I soaked them for 5 mins in hot water and formed them around an aerosol until dry. With the first planks on, the lower internal wale planks are now added. I found these a little trickier as I needed to make them conform around the shoulder of the hull, in an almost compound curve. I can do some sanding later. From this point, planking is fairly straightforward, but stops when I reach the bottom of the tafrel area. This is so I can sand, shape and trim to fit tafrel parts to fit. After some small adjustments on the stern keel area, allowing the next planks to fit continuously, these are all finally added. I used Titebond on these, brushed onto the planks, and I did each plank in three glue sessions. Next up is some very gentle sanding and fairing as I don't want to really lose any of the laser details. More next time!

Looking amazing. I love the warmth the oil has given to the pear planks and the deck. I suspected you might need to finish the surface after oiling with the grain raising a little. Something I'll watch out for on mine.

MarisStella, Amati, OcCre, to name three more.

Ain't that the truth! 🤣🕰️🤣

The kit is entirely developed and they have a manual, but they want the manual re-made into their current style. That means them sending me the parts and at least building and completing the hull, and me sending them the corrected/annotated photos and the text to go with it. They also want me to double-check specifics on the build too. I don't think you're far off the mark with a couple of years, but at least it's now happening whereas a couple of months ago, there was a distinct possibility you wouldn't have seen this for much longer....if at all. There is an upside to two years though.....time to get some cash set aside for it!

Impressive finish so far. I bet you're looking forward to the rigging 😈

Amati add a few bits and pieces such as barrels and axes, bow, bucket etc.

Hi Mike, Welcome to MSW! Ok, off the top of my head, I don't know the thickness of the keel and bulkheads, but I would've thought between 3mm and 4mm. As for other Viking vessels that are available, you're in real luck as I have some Viking stuff coming tomorrow from Dusek Models, and I'll be doing an in-box review on MSW. I'm not sure what will be in the box yet, but I have a rough idea. Jim

Not an easy undertaking at all, so kudos for bringing this to small scale.

Looking very cool, and that laser-engraved deck really looks the part.

I know this is my build log, but these are examples of photos taken with this setup:

That's exactly what it is. This is exactly how I do all of my magazine and book work for several publishers. I subscribe to Adobe's Creative Cloud. At the moment, I have the full suite on an Educational package, but you can get just Lightroom and Photoshop for about £10/month. They are invaluable tools for anyone wanting to do anything like I do that will go into print.