Ray

The Yards Part 1
The yards,the larger yards have octagonal center sections, and the ones I made when building Pegasus I thought were only just about acceptable, and the way I made those was to file the octagon shape from the dowel. I decided to try a different method for Diana s yards,the two yard sizes, at the large diameter point, are 8mm & 6mm, I tried my new method on a mock up yard in 8mm which proved successful so this is how they were made.
I cut the dowel over length by 20mm, I then ran some tape around the dowel at the ends of the center section,then started to reduce the out ends ( mainly to allow the dowel to go into the small lathe further) I the reduced the center section down from 8mm to 6.8mm, and then I laid in four 4mm x 1mm wood strips top & bottom and both sides,then when dry filled in the gaps with wood filler,when the filler was dry  I filed clean the wood strips, and then filed the filled gaps so that all sides where the same width,this gives a really nice octagonal center section and at 8.5mm just .5mm over size I can live with that.
The next step was to shape and tapper the yard from the octagonal section to the ends in my model lathe, then I cut off the 10mm over length each end to give a nice square end. I made all the yard cleats from ABS plastic adding them as oversized bits and filing to shape when dry. I then added some tape around the octagonal part to simulate the iron bands.
 
Reduced center


 
Building up the center



 
Center now octagonal



 
With cleat and band

The Yards Part 1
The yards,the larger yards have octagonal center sections, and the ones I made when building Pegasus I thought were only just about acceptable, and the way I made those was to file the octagon shape from the dowel. I decided to try a different method for Diana s yards,the two yard sizes, at the large diameter point, are 8mm & 6mm, I tried my new method on a mock up yard in 8mm which proved successful so this is how they were made.
I cut the dowel over length by 20mm, I then ran some tape around the dowel at the ends of the center section,then started to reduce the out ends ( mainly to allow the dowel to go into the small lathe further) I the reduced the center section down from 8mm to 6.8mm, and then I laid in four 4mm x 1mm wood strips top & bottom and both sides,then when dry filled in the gaps with wood filler,when the filler was dry  I filed clean the wood strips, and then filed the filled gaps so that all sides where the same width,this gives a really nice octagonal center section and at 8.5mm just .5mm over size I can live with that.
The next step was to shape and tapper the yard from the octagonal section to the ends in my model lathe, then I cut off the 10mm over length each end to give a nice square end. I made all the yard cleats from ABS plastic adding them as oversized bits and filing to shape when dry. I then added some tape around the octagonal part to simulate the iron bands.
 
Reduced center


 
Building up the center



 
Center now octagonal



 
With cleat and band

The Yards Part 1
The yards,the larger yards have octagonal center sections, and the ones I made when building Pegasus I thought were only just about acceptable, and the way I made those was to file the octagon shape from the dowel. I decided to try a different method for Diana s yards,the two yard sizes, at the large diameter point, are 8mm & 6mm, I tried my new method on a mock up yard in 8mm which proved successful so this is how they were made.
I cut the dowel over length by 20mm, I then ran some tape around the dowel at the ends of the center section,then started to reduce the out ends ( mainly to allow the dowel to go into the small lathe further) I the reduced the center section down from 8mm to 6.8mm, and then I laid in four 4mm x 1mm wood strips top & bottom and both sides,then when dry filled in the gaps with wood filler,when the filler was dry  I filed clean the wood strips, and then filed the filled gaps so that all sides where the same width,this gives a really nice octagonal center section and at 8.5mm just .5mm over size I can live with that.
The next step was to shape and tapper the yard from the octagonal section to the ends in my model lathe, then I cut off the 10mm over length each end to give a nice square end. I made all the yard cleats from ABS plastic adding them as oversized bits and filing to shape when dry. I then added some tape around the octagonal part to simulate the iron bands.
 
Reduced center


 
Building up the center



 
Center now octagonal



 
With cleat and band

The Yards Part 1
The yards,the larger yards have octagonal center sections, and the ones I made when building Pegasus I thought were only just about acceptable, and the way I made those was to file the octagon shape from the dowel. I decided to try a different method for Diana s yards,the two yard sizes, at the large diameter point, are 8mm & 6mm, I tried my new method on a mock up yard in 8mm which proved successful so this is how they were made.
I cut the dowel over length by 20mm, I then ran some tape around the dowel at the ends of the center section,then started to reduce the out ends ( mainly to allow the dowel to go into the small lathe further) I the reduced the center section down from 8mm to 6.8mm, and then I laid in four 4mm x 1mm wood strips top & bottom and both sides,then when dry filled in the gaps with wood filler,when the filler was dry  I filed clean the wood strips, and then filed the filled gaps so that all sides where the same width,this gives a really nice octagonal center section and at 8.5mm just .5mm over size I can live with that.
The next step was to shape and tapper the yard from the octagonal section to the ends in my model lathe, then I cut off the 10mm over length each end to give a nice square end. I made all the yard cleats from ABS plastic adding them as oversized bits and filing to shape when dry. I then added some tape around the octagonal part to simulate the iron bands.
 
Reduced center


 
Building up the center



 
Center now octagonal



 
With cleat and band

The Yards Part 1
The yards,the larger yards have octagonal center sections, and the ones I made when building Pegasus I thought were only just about acceptable, and the way I made those was to file the octagon shape from the dowel. I decided to try a different method for Diana s yards,the two yard sizes, at the large diameter point, are 8mm & 6mm, I tried my new method on a mock up yard in 8mm which proved successful so this is how they were made.
I cut the dowel over length by 20mm, I then ran some tape around the dowel at the ends of the center section,then started to reduce the out ends ( mainly to allow the dowel to go into the small lathe further) I the reduced the center section down from 8mm to 6.8mm, and then I laid in four 4mm x 1mm wood strips top & bottom and both sides,then when dry filled in the gaps with wood filler,when the filler was dry  I filed clean the wood strips, and then filed the filled gaps so that all sides where the same width,this gives a really nice octagonal center section and at 8.5mm just .5mm over size I can live with that.
The next step was to shape and tapper the yard from the octagonal section to the ends in my model lathe, then I cut off the 10mm over length each end to give a nice square end. I made all the yard cleats from ABS plastic adding them as oversized bits and filing to shape when dry. I then added some tape around the octagonal part to simulate the iron bands.
 
Reduced center


 
Building up the center



 
Center now octagonal



 
With cleat and band

well did some filling and glued some deck parts on corvette and added the wooden decking to the rear.

 

​Note: Comments on messy bench are not allowed!    
 
 
At this point the pieced are placed on deck, nothing has been glued at this time.
 
Three overall progress views:
 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Tim

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The main and mizzen top masts are now in place, and have all their shrouds and ratlines added, phew, I am glad they are all finished and that I split it up this way, as it did make the ratlines a lot less tedious to tie,I will now most likely add as much of the standing rigging that I can before fitting the tagallants masts.
I have also included some photos of Diana with Pegasus and The lady Nelson.
 
Firstly a lower fold down table I used to bring the rigging to a better level to work at

 
Main and mizzen masts



Completed ratlines



 
 
Some photos of Diana with Pegasus And some with The Lady Nelson as well

Top mast was fitted to the fore mast next, and the shrouds and ratlines have been added.
 
One tip I do have, which I seem to have omitted to mention in my earlier posts on the shrouds and ratlines, is that, most kit manufacturers instructions for ratlines, recommend using .25mm, or which ever size natural thread and then stain it black (a very messy option in my opinion) there reasoning’s being that black thread is to stiff to use well Caldercraft thread is quite stiff, but I always use Amiti which is no stiffer than natural colour thread.
The main and mizzen next.
 
Shroud with 3mm block

 
Shrouds

 

 

 

 
Shrouds And ratlines with Lady Nelson shows how big Diana is
 

 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

Standing Rigging
With all the shrouds and ratlines tied I decided to add as much of the standing rigging as possible before the topgallants masts went on. Again another small issue not enough 5mm dead eyes, to complete all the back stays to the main mast, so some extras were ordered, there are 88 supplied, which I admit I did not count, but I still counted up 90 needed, and at this point I am 6 short, I may have dropped and lost a couple, but who does not, I also think there should be a few spares built into the kit. Next the main and preventer stays to all three topmasts were made up and added, this did meant that bowsprit needed to be fitted, which has the down side of making it more difficult to turn her round, side to side, when adding rigging to each side.
One aspect, I have been having difficult with, is using  the rigging plans, so far I have found that some rigging rope runs overlay others, some of the runs I cannot even work out how they start or how they terminate, maybe it is just me, but, I did not have this problem rigging Pegasus, as a result this promoted me to dig out the Pegasus rigging plans and(in conjunction with Peterssons book), and as Pegasus is a ship rigged Sloop, her and Diana should be rigged nearly the same, so I am using both sets of standing rigging plans, and where I cannot, be sure, or work out, were the rigging runs on Diana s plans go, I will rig her as per Pegasus, this should be OK as naval rigging practices were most likely standard on all ships.

Looks fantastic Ray!

Looking good keep up the good work.
David B

Looking very nice Ray

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging