Ray

Hi I found a marker pen which did not bleed and have attached a couple of photos I obtained it from www.tigerpens.co.uk they are in wicford Essex.
 


no bleeding on my planking

Thanks everybody!
 
And now for another in the series of Andy's Endless Photos of White Plastic Thing-ies (or The Monochromatic Build Log), the second boom side truss is now complete, and symetrical to the first (or as close as I care to get it lacking a scanning electron microscope and a ruler to measure micrometers....).
 
Yes, my mind is a little warped this morning, as you would expect. When this project is finally finished, if I so much as see another piece of styrene angle...
 
I'm going to have to wait on a few parts to arrive before I go much further.... I have no desire to manufacture 24 plastic sheaves for the topping lift, especially since there are commercially available bits that can hopefully save what's left of my sanity.... (what little there is)...
 
There's still a boat-load of other details to deal with.
 
 
Andy
 

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

Hi Mobbsie we all make mistakes I should know I have just spent two weeks sorting one out, the good thing is its done and we will not look back wish we had done it. Good luck with the ratlines the most tedious part of any build.

Thanks guys I am now well on the way to rebuilding the bulwarks and rails, one good thing so far is the main beech wood top rail has remained in one peice. This has been one of those things you must do, for if you did not you would always regret it later.

Thanks guys I am now well on the way to rebuilding the bulwarks and rails, one good thing so far is the main beech wood top rail has remained in one peice. This has been one of those things you must do, for if you did not you would always regret it later.

Thanks guys I am now well on the way to rebuilding the bulwarks and rails, one good thing so far is the main beech wood top rail has remained in one peice. This has been one of those things you must do, for if you did not you would always regret it later.

Ouch. That's some pretty major reconstructive surgery. Not something you want to have to do too often on a project. I guess the old Keep calm and carry on applies here doesn't it?

Annoying but I've every confidence that it will come right in your hands Ray,  if nothing else a good 'heads up' for those who follow with that particular modification.
 
B.E.

That's got to hurt Ray, that's a major refit your tackling there.
 
I wish you the best of luck with it mate, I'm sure all will come good in the end given your high degree of skill and determination.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Ray, as others already mentioned , I'm sure you will recover this.
It appears that shipbuilding is sometimes more related with real  life than one should expect.
More than once I experienced at my own expence to oversee the obvious by focusing too much on details.
Bon courage and take care !

To tie it to the inner bulwark. I'm going simple on this build, similar to Rays Nelson's cannons (as in not fully rigged). Not sure on the length either, obviously they would need to draw back far enough to reload but how far? They are bloody small so I'm not fiddling about with them too much,

Andy   nice work sometimes the styrene is nice to work with and a bit more forgiving than wood, the mesh should look good.

Last update before the coppering – really I’m serious this time.  Unless I go off book again and build the ships boats….
 
Here is the completed stern including the galleys.  It takes a lot to get to this point.  I think the design and plans support the work, though glad I don’t need to rely on instructions anymore, they are pretty thin on description here.  Fortunately there is an extra booklet that comes with the Vanguard laying out the hull build.  It is far more valuable than the instructions.  For any new builders my advice is learn now how to use the plans and don’t depend solely on the written instructions, in the end its far less frustrating and more rewarding.  Also while I'm offering unsolicited advice, invest in good quality paint brushes.  I use Loew Cornell http://www.hofcraft.com/loew-cornell-3000-series-comfort-grip-brushes.html brushes, my multiple 18/0 and 10/0 spotters got a lot of work in the building of the stern and galley.  I like the spotters and shaders more than the round sizes for detail work.
 

 
Something I didn’t mention n the last post but is worth passing on.  As careful as I was with the gun port pattern alignments on both sides, they did not wind up even with the center keel and bulwark structure across the back.  They were even with each other, effectively that meant a slight curve of the stern.  This is reinforced by the multiple small pieces that make up the side galleys having a bit of angle to them.  That would be no problem for the walnut ply piece that makes up most of the stern, it bends easy enough, however the stern decoration is cast from a molded plastic, it has absolutely no bend at all.  I ended up having to fit a shim to bring the rear portion of the galleys near equal to the center point of the center keel portion of the stern so as not to break the plastic decoration, meaning flat across the back, not curved……….ok I did that after I broke the plastic decoration trying to get that slight bend.  Fortunately it was a clean break and I easily (if angrily) fixed it and touched it up to be invisible.
 

 
I was impressed with how 30+ brass etched and ply parts come together so wel to form the galleys.  The alignment of parts all look right when its done.  I had to make two changes to the plans for it to work – which probably are my fault somehow and not that of the plans.  The wood trim below the “rails” is supposed to be 1x1mm like the other three.  I had to use 1/x2mm otherwise the lower columns would not have line up with the windows.  I also placed the three little decorative pieces differently, they wouldn’t fit where the plans call them.  That’s minor stuff – overall the designer did well with this subassembly.  Also, the soft cast metal pieces I didn’t use on the stern did come in handy as the two lowest trim pieces.  Wood trim wouldn’t have made the both front to back and top to bottom bending required to fit here.  
 
Off to do the coppering…unless I can figure out some way to avoid it once again.

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed