normanh
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Everything posted by normanh
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For the electrolysis method a battery charger is all thats needed a lump of stainless steel and some sodium hydroxiide solution - caution its very corrosive, off the top of my head I cant remember which pole is the stainless and the other is the item to be presevered. It does work but I have only tried it on small items many years back. Norman
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Carbide drills of thei size are not ideal in hand held drills - simply they break to easy, they are meant for machine use at high speed in applications like drilling PCB's - I know this as I spent almost 2 years in that industry years back.
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Bitumen is actually classified as visco elastic and continues to flow unless at low temperatures - I have more than enough reference books on the material from my old job. Its a devil of a job to clean up after. Norman
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Chris I would be very careful on the bitumen coat, its not really suited for a finish as it will slowly oxidise chaging its appearance - I know this from my industrial experience in formulating bitumen compounds on very large scales, processing at one point 20K Tonnes per year and dealing with a number of major petroleum companies. Thin coats will soon deteriorate from ultra violet light in normal use this is not a problem such as roads applications. Oxidation is a result of the UV light on the complex structure in bitumens (usually graded into categories into 4/5 chemical groups), the UV reacts with the many aromatic double bonds in the structures changing the properties. Depending on the grade will alter the rate such as a straight run or blown grade. Norman
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Re: airbrush moisture trap
normanh replied to rtropp's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Take care even when using a trap as they soon fill up and allow the water transfer to the air brush depending on the length of time the compressor runs and the actual room humidity (actually related to the dew point). Norman -
Dont forget that Carron also used to make enameled cast iron bathubs. I think the screw if it were non ferrous would be a bronze rather than brass similar to thant used in cannons. Norman
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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
normanh replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Not at all its your build, build as you wish to see her, after all the Crusiers were fitted out with Long guns rather than carronades, go with you gut feelings she will look great. Norman -
Nice looking carronades much improved over the standard white metal ones. Norman
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Strange as it may seem I was there last Monday on the 1st July and yet to sort the pictures out, she makes a great model subject, a ship I have admired for for over 50 years since I heard about her story. Sorry to hear on your damage, I hope its ok now? Norman
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I think you will find that the "white" is almost certainly based on a white lead pigment as most dockyards in the UK had their own Lead Mill to manufacture paints. This is going to have some antifouling properties being a lead compound and somewhat toxic! Norman
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I only have experience of Caldercraft kits but I cant fault the later kits like the Badger for drawings and instructions. Norman
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The wreck is nearer the Sheerness than Essex where I live but its been forecast for as long as I can remember that it would cause serious damage to the Southend area, whilst I no expert in these matters but none of the bombs or shells on board were armed with a fuse so I am not sure on what the immediate threat is. I have been past her many times and at a very low water a good deal of her can be seen rising up out of the sea. We have been taliking about airports in the the thames since about 1970 when I was a schoolboy - I am sure it will never happen, theres more unexploded ordanance of Shoebury where the military range is located plus at least 4 or 5 times a year local fisherman bring up a German mine from the river. In fact the foreshore is riddled with shells that keep popping up. Norman
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Not done to much these last few months but put a few bits together today, the superstructure is just at the fitting stage but the secondary armamount is fixed. norman
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The Badger kit comes with some lovely photoetch hooks. Norman
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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
normanh replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
I found the barrels sat high for two reasons - 1st the pivot brackets protrude too far from the carriage, push them down further and put a small flat on the bottom of the white metal barrel mount helps, 2nd the lengths of the elevating screw can vary by a few mm thus increasing the problem, I built them up with a piece of brass rod - hidden as it was inserted into the carriage. Norman -
HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
normanh replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
I've had no issues paint the white metal fittings using a Revel Tar Black Acyrlic paint and even the Admiraty Enamal paints now discontinued sadly. I have found the paint covers well. The parts you have shown look like the trucks for the carronades and yard fittings for the stuntbooms. Norman -
HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
normanh replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
"mm blocks are best suited scale size for the caronnades, I posted a couple of pictures in my NMM thread in the Museums section - shows how they were rigged in a period model of the Crusier. Norman -
HMS Caroline: WWI battleship wins £1m lottery boost
normanh replied to Kevin's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thats fabulous news for a grand old lady's future. Norman -
Dont forget to get a good few planks overlapping the gunport ply at least before you break off the stubs. Norman
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The simple solution is get a cheap razor saw and cut th end off, I used my Dremel with a cut off disc, was a tad slow but saved getting the 5 1/4 inch grinder out. http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Knifes-For-Model-Making.html Once modified it still works fine. Norman
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Thats exactly why i said I installed the ply deck to give something for the gunport ply to bond to, to reinforce it I added a couple of layers of second planking. On the stubs - I wrapped a silicone release paper to stop the gunport bonding. Normal razor saws are ok until you get to the bow stubs then you need the 45 degree angle to manage a cut. Norman
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Airbrush Compressors
normanh replied to jre8655's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have been using a compressor for over a year ith no tank never noticed a problem as with airbrushing your not spraying on a continuous cycle - the link is the compressor I have but I purchased it else where. If you are using one for several minutes make sure you check the water trap and keep it empty otherwise water will get into the airbrush. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mantua_4750051.html Norman -
I have a quantity of cherry in strips 0.5 mm thick that can be cut down to a 4mm planking width, has anyone used this for decking or even wales? Its a bit thin for a final planking but is easy enough to build up for a wale. Norman
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To remove the stubs of the frames use a razor saw its so simple but when you come to the bows the end of the saw blade will need to be cut at 45 degrees to enable sufficient clearance around the gunport ply. Cut almost right through the twist the stub off carefully with a pair of long nose pliers. Always make sure the stubs are not glued to the ply otherwise you will make a right mess. Norman
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I would have thought about a foot for the hawser looking at my model i used a drill in the region of about 4 mm to give a fair clearance on the line. Norman
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