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thibaultron

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  1. Like
    thibaultron reacted to GLakie in IF YOU HAD A CHOICE   
    Mike those cupped billets you have can be trued by you, and all you need is one flat board, temporarily glued to one side, getting it as close to parallel as you can. Then using your fence, shave off what you need to make the other side flat. Remove the guide board and repeat on the adjacent side. 
  2. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Julie Mo in IF YOU HAD A CHOICE   
    Greg, if you already have a drill press, check this out.  It's also sold at Stew-Mac, the same place that sells the 6" thin kerf circular saw blade.  It's designed as a thickness sander and works pretty well.  I'm finding a number of luthier tools cross over well into model making.
     

  3. Like
    thibaultron reacted to John Allen in IF YOU HAD A CHOICE   
    Greg,
     
    Drill Master 2" cuttoff saw by Harbor freight. $ 29.95. Sturdy little saw, clean cuts and angles. I have a problem with my knuckles popping when use a small hand saw and miter box. Get the extra saw blades.
     
    Best little saw for the money.
     
    Good Luck
     
    John
  4. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Julie Mo in IF YOU HAD A CHOICE   
    I have a saw blade that fits on a standard table saw and makes cuts that could work well for certain aspects of model making. It's a 6" diameter blade with 100 teeth and a .023" kerf.  It cuts to about 1/2" deep. 
     
    I made a sled for my 10" table saw to cut fret slots.  In order to create a zero clearance on the top of the sled, I had to first cut a wider slot to accommodate the wider thickness of the blade about 1/2" in from the perimeter.

    Remove the fretboard holder (blue extrusion assembly) and insert whatever you need to make your fine cuts. 
     
    I have thought about using this blade to make rip cuts in thin sheets of wood.  If I did that, the first thing I would do is make a zero clearance table saw insert specifically for this blade.  Even though the blade is designed to be a crosscut blade, I can see it working in woods that are the thickness of model ship planking.
  5. Like
    thibaultron reacted to PAnderson in New wreck found   
    That's amazing. Now a long legal battle ensues. How big was this ship that it could have 600 people on board? Was this common? That seems like a lot, packed in like sardines. Slaves? And did the British make any attempt to save any of these souls?
     
    Paul
  6. Like
    thibaultron reacted to vossy in New wreck found   
    http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-12-06/spanish-galleon-san-jose-found-with-3-billion-of-treasure/7005266
     
    cheers chris
     
  7. Like
    thibaultron reacted to jonny.amy in HM Cutter Sherbourne by jonny.amy - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64 - Kit Bash   
    Hi Chaps,
     
    Photo update time...
     
    Sherbourne and her display board is 95% complete, just a few more odds and sods to sort out, but we're pretty much there.
     
    I'm going to use all the offcuts of rigging line to make rope coils for the belaying pins and have a few scattered about on deck. These are just cosmetics that will need doing before building the MK02 display case!
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    As for why I've been a bit quiet on the forum recently, this is the reason why... :D
     

     

     

     

     
    I will keep you all posted on the final stretches of Sherbourne and few final bits that need doing, but I will hopefully be able to include a part on building the display case.
     
    Cheers for now,
     
    Jonny
  8. Like
    thibaultron reacted to vossy in More Masking Tape Questions   
    hey mike. our big hardware stores stock it here. but a dedicated paint store will definitely have it. essentially what you need to ask for is long life tape (means it can stay on for a specified period of time before it will pull the underlying paint off. about max now is 14 days. so you want that, but you also want what they call edge lock technology. this is a very thin (less than a millimetre) edge of ultra sticky and stiff coating. paint will not bleed under it. brands in australia are scotch, bear, haymes etc. i would be amazed if a similar product could not be bought in america. if you have a paint store nearby i would go there. but as per my previous post it is VERY advisable to first seal the wood, and then brush away from the tape. i said it was expensive. over here i can upwards of $20 for a 1/4 inch 25meter roll.
     
    chris
  9. Like
    thibaultron reacted to vossy in More Masking Tape Questions   
    you can buy really good professional painter's masking tape with super advanced edge lock technology now days. make sure the wood is sealed so the paint will not absorb into it too much. also, brush away from the tape, not towards it. this tape is expensive but it works 100%.
     
    cheers chris
  10. Like
    thibaultron reacted to GuntherMT in Cutting the Mast Foot   
    Check your plans for the actual dimension of the finished mast, and then depending on how much 'slop' you think you need, get square stock appropriate to that size.  If the kit provides a 3/8" dowel, that doesn't meant that the largest part of the mast is actually 3/8".  It might be, but the only way to know for sure is to check your plans.
     
    When I ordered my boxwood, I went about 1/16 or 1/8 over (depending on dimension of the final piece), but I was also using a lathe to shape the masts from the square stock, so step 1 was simply to turn the square stock into round stock just barely larger than the largest diameter of the mast piece according to the plans.  Doing it by hand I might have tried for a much closer starting size.
  11. Like
    thibaultron reacted to GuntherMT in Cutting the Mast Foot   
    All the masting on my AVS was made from Boxwood which I ordered from Crown Timberyard.  I'll never use dowels for masting again, the Boxwood just is so much nicer, perfectly straight, and a joy to work with.
  12. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Jaager in Cutting the Mast Foot   
    Mostly theory on my part. 
    Beginning with old school/traditional :
    I have more Pau marfim than I realized - and it is good that I got it while it was available, but most any reasonably hard straight grained species should do. 
    When I first started, Yellow Pine was a suggested species, the thing is, Yellow Pine could be one of several species of pine.  I asked my grandfather for some ( he was home builder )  and what he gave me was a plank of what might be an all but extinct species of pine with distinct grain that is fairly wide and the summer wood is really hard. There was a species of pine that was widely used before WWII - very hard - too popular and all but lumbered to extinction.  What I have may be that - turned up, it looks like a made mast.
     
    Now,  Birch is great, but the machines that punch out the dowels, do not place a high priority on being dead on with the grain, so starting with a plank is better. 
    In working with it, I think Hard Maple is a good choice. 
    It takes more work, but I am partial to species that are hard. 
    In Texas, you may be able to find a Yellow Pine that is straight and hard.  I think that what is used for framing lumber is not going to be useful.  The flooring stock may be useful.
  13. Like
    thibaultron reacted to jbshan in Cutting the Mast Foot   
    However you choose to shape the heel of the mast, make a stub to match the slot so you know months from now what sort of cavity you have left yourself under your beautiful deck so you can make the real mast to fit.
  14. Like
    thibaultron reacted to kees de mol in DIY router machine   
    Hello people,
     
    I wanted to buy a router but the missis wouldnt let me spend the money so I searched the bits and peaces-bin for stuff to make on myzelf. I had an old Kinzo multitool wich I could use and the necessary parts were there too. I built a router-part which is adjustable in height, a part to make circles and a part to make straight lines. 
     
    Here's the result.
     

     

     

     

     
    It works very well and I am very happy with it.
     
    Kind regards, Kees
  15. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Burroak in How Do I Lube/Protect a Metal Lathe Without Oil?   
    I use Johnsons floor wax for all my power tool surfaces. Especially tablesaw tops, planers, jointers. Just put it on and buff it out. It makes the wood move easier across the surface and protects from rust. I would also like to add that when the humidity is high outside and it's cold, well that seems to be the problem time for rust to appear. Especially if you have sawdust all over the surfaces you are trying to protect. The sawdust absorbs moisture from the air and will leave a small amount of rust which will build up if left untreated. I use a brush to keep those surfaces clear to also help prevent rust. I am speaking from my own experience on this. Hope this helps.
     
    Greg H.
  16. Like
    thibaultron reacted to mikiek in More Masking Tape Questions   
    Philo426 - here is just a sample. I taped the entire bulwark wall (still primed) before spraying the red paint which is supposed to be what covers the 1/32x1/32 strips. Look at the painted pic. You can actually see the strips - my masking covered  too much of the planks. I went back with a tiny detail brush and moved the green edge in towards the strips. Talk about stressful


  17. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from Doreltomin in HMS Victory re-paint   
    Shades (sorry) of the movie "Operation Petticoat". A comedy movie about a WWII US sub that ended up being painted pink.
  18. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from dgbot in Carrie Price by thibaultron – Lindberg/Pyro – PLASTIC – 1:64 - Small - Skipjack   
    Well. Back to the drawing board, literally! Shapeways minimum thickness is .012". This translates to 3/4+" in 1/64th scale. Many of my wall thicknesses are 1/2", for a true scale part (and this is thicker than I think it would be in real life, more like 1/4 to 3/8 thick webs). At least I have practice. I can probably use the existing drawing for the larger scales.
  19. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from tarbrush in Carrie Price by thibaultron – Lindberg/Pyro – PLASTIC – 1:64 - Small - Skipjack   
    Part 24
     
    Over the last few days I learned enough about SketchUp to make these drawings of the hand dredge as a solid model. Real SketchUp draftsmen would probably cringe. I had to go back and redraw many of the parts several times, trying different ways of creating them.
     

     

     
    The next step is to contact the 3D printing company, and see if the drawing can be printed. I’m sure there will be more needed before they are acceptable.
     
    There is an extra pawl support arm (the one sticking vertically out of the one leg), as I’m not sure that the leg can be printed with it attached.
     
  20. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from overdale in IF YOU HAD A CHOICE   
    Belt/disk sander, followed closely by a drill press.
  21. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Mahuna in Carrie Price by thibaultron – Lindberg/Pyro – PLASTIC – 1:64 - Small - Skipjack   
    Excellent work, Ron!  I can see you've put a lot of thought and effort into rendering the drawings.  When (if) I get around to modeling one from brass I'll definitely be referring to your drawings.
  22. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Would anyone be interested in a 2D CAd to 3D printed model?   
    I recently drew up a hand powered dredge winch (about 3' X 3' X 2' in full scale), in a 2D CAD program, then went to a 3D model in SketchUp, then to an acceptable STL file to be printed by Shapeways. Would anyone be interested in a thread on the process, and some of the pitfalls along the way?
     
    The winch pushes the limits of their tech, when translated to both 1/32nd and 1/64th scale printed models.
     
    The winch is for my Carrie Price Skipjack model, in another build thread, but I thought that this subject would be more suitable for a wider audience.
  23. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from trippwj in Would anyone be interested in a 2D CAd to 3D printed model?   
    I recently drew up a hand powered dredge winch (about 3' X 3' X 2' in full scale), in a 2D CAD program, then went to a 3D model in SketchUp, then to an acceptable STL file to be printed by Shapeways. Would anyone be interested in a thread on the process, and some of the pitfalls along the way?
     
    The winch pushes the limits of their tech, when translated to both 1/32nd and 1/64th scale printed models.
     
    The winch is for my Carrie Price Skipjack model, in another build thread, but I thought that this subject would be more suitable for a wider audience.
  24. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Canute in Tips on cutting small pieces?   
    Sharp blades and a cutting mat work well. But, balsa is a very soft wood; really only useful as filler for a hull, between the bulkheads. Trying to shape items, like deck furniture, is difficult because the wood is so soft. The edges don't hold up if much pressure is applied, so fine detail is hard to achieve. You may want to try some basswood. It's still soft, but it doesn't have the issues of balsa.
  25. Like
    thibaultron reacted to mtaylor in Tips on cutting small pieces?   
    What might help also, is to put the balsa on a slab of basswood with some PVA.  cut what needs to be cut and the drop it in an alcohol bath.  Once the glue dissolves, let it dry and you can use it.
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