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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Your ability with the scroll saw is most remarkable. Those bulkheads are works of art in themselves. Tom
  2. TBlack
    Nice recovery! Looks good. TB
  3. TBlack
    I'll second what B.E. and Druxey have written. It also looks like you've got an excellent set of plans to work from. Tom
  4. TBlack
    Ron, Thanks for indulging me. Tom
  5. TBlack
    Dodgeyhack is right, that is a useful tool for the bench. But I suspect the real key is keeping the blade very sharp. Maybe Hollowneck will share with us his technique? Tom
  6. TBlack
    That's not a garage; it's a museum! Tom
  7. TBlack
    Steve, Thanks for this, but I think I'll go with the 7 window option and have the outer two windows be fake, like Fair American. And Sophie is described as being very low in the water. Also, Sophie has royals and stun'sls. Gregory, You can see on my plan where the stern post is. Just aft of it would be the rudder post which, let's imagine, that it stops just below the deck of the captain's cabin and the tiller attaches there. Tom
  8. TBlack
    Gregory, Thanks for your observation, but that's not the plan to use. This is: Back in my posts #13 & 14 I show how I got to the above plan. The arrow points to the deck in the captain's cabin. I haven't entirely figured out the complete stern arrangement yet. I should also point out that what O'Brian describes in the book and what shows in the cover picture don't always match. As an example, Aubrey says he can look through 7 stern windows when sitting in his cabin. That's an impossibility, given the configuration of the Sophie as depicted in the picture on the cover of the book. At the same time, the ship's wheel, according to the book, is clearly on the quarterdeck. So, that's where it's going. Tom
  9. TBlack
    Gregory, Yes there is plenty of room for the tiller to move. Not a problem there. Furthermore, in other ships with a wheel, regardless of where it was situated, had to deal with the same mechanics and space, right? Vane, delighted to see your response. Yes, you got that description of the project just right. In one sentence you've captured what it has taken me three pages to say! Tom
  10. TBlack
    Gregory, I’m just. Guessing, but maybe the steering cables went straight down from the drum, through the captain’s cabin, into the space below, and thence to the rudder post? Tom
  11. TBlack
    Steve, Your quoted passages are on pages 79-80 in my edition. While Mr. Brown thought the yard should be shortened, Jack thought otherwise, and instructed the carpenter, Mr. Lamb, just to touch up the stop-cleats. The spar was never shortened and remained at 43 feet. Tom
  12. TBlack
    Steve, You're never too granular for this hobby. Keep it up! Sophie was always going to have a wheel. Page 69 of my paperback edition of the book says that Jack took the wheel, and that the wind blew his hat off, getting caught in the hammock netting. So, the wheel is on the quarterdeck. Tom
  13. TBlack
    Walter, Check out Tom Szabo's Leopard (TomS10). Last page of his log shows the result, and back a couple of pages shows how he did it. Tom
  14. TBlack
    Jon, A nice explanation and I'm sure a big help to other first timers. Looks good so far. Tom
  15. TBlack
    My mistake. Must be the late night that fogs my brain. I was thinking 1:64=3/8" to the foot and it's actually 3/16" to the foot. We're all in agreement this morning. Tom
  16. TBlack
    This is becoming an interesting discussion, because the kit calls for a main yard 202mm long (7.953") and suggests that Cochrane extended it to 220mm (8.66"). In this scale, 1:64, that translates to, in the first instance, 21' and in the second 23'. Now I don't know how I'm going to resolve this issue, but I know that I'm a looong way from having to deal with it. And Steve, please don't recede into the background! Tom
  17. TBlack
    OK, Steve, you're a lot further on in the book than I am. Let me catch up. Tom
  18. TBlack
    First, I am delighted that I've got an audience that is appreciative of my modest efforts. Thank you all for being here. Secondly, I hope Chris Watton doesn't stumble of this log and see how I'm ruining his perfect kit! He'll never sell me another thing! Steve: once I figure out the shape and dimensions of the stern area, I need to go back and reread Master and Commander to see if Aubrey provides any more detail on the rest of Sophie. We know that the "forecastle" is not a raised deck but just an area of the main deck, and that there is an elm tree pump up there as well. Big assumption, but perhaps the main yard is as supplied in the kit? Tom
  19. TBlack
    Holidays over, back to the shop. Making some progress, albeit slowly. I'm trying to get the stern section together and flowing smoothly. I've added the gun port patterns and one hull plank: Now I'm working on fabricating two of these: Happy new year to all! Tom
  20. TBlack
    Msgt. Ray, Mark makes a good point. How far down the rabbit hole do you want to go? Yes, the forestay and preventer stay is rigged incorrectly, but will your audience know the difference? I stand by my previous recommendation. Do a little trimming and tightening; fix the masts. It will pass muster. Don't make perfection the enemy of the good. As an aside: I'm thinking, Master Sergeant, fighter aircraft. Does that mean Marines? Tom
  21. TBlack
    Ray, I’m going to depart from the considerable wisdom and advice given by Roger and Druxey. I had a similar problem a few years ago (see log Researching St. George) where the bowsprit and attendant rigging was a tangled mess. That area I cut away and redid from scratch. The rest of the rigging I left in place and tightened it up. My reasoning was that I didn’t want to add work if I didn’t have to. Your situation looks like the main mast and rigging needs a redo. However, it looks like you can save the lower shrouds. Hard to tell from the photo what the main top shrouds look like. BTW, when you go to buy the Q tips be careful; they sell 2 kinds. The one to avoid is the one where the stem has break away joints. The least little pressure and they break in your hand. Most frustrating! Also, Mark’s suggestion is spot on. Longridge’s book would be helpful, and there are many build logs on this site that may supply help. In the search box (upper right) type in Victory. Tom
  22. TBlack
    Mark, If it's any consolation, I would have done that job in the same order. Tom
  23. TBlack
    Andy, Do you suppose the pictures are too large for the program? Tom
  24. TBlack
    Mark, That was a fast turnaround. Impressive recovery; you must be one solid fella! Tom
  25. TBlack
    I think it looks terrific! Nicely painted, crisp, good contrast. Bravo Zulu! As I recall, your surgery was scheduled for the 16th, All done? And already back in the shop! Tom

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