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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Keith, Here's how that piece fits: Ideally, the bottom of the pattern should be along the bottom of the counter piece. Moving the pattern down, lowers the gun port, #6, at the far right too close to the main deck. So I can't move anything forward of gun 6. I don't care about gun port #7; it gets covered up (gun 7 is on the quarterdeck). Cutting the pattern aft of gun 6 is ok; it just means I have to cut planking stock the same thickness as the pattern, no problem. The tricky part is getting the new sheer line smoothly executed.
  2. TBlack
    I'm just thinking out loud here, but it helps to clear my head. The gun port pattern, provided in the kit, sweeps upward toward the rear: On the Sophie there is less sheer at the aft end (see photo in post #33), so I think I need to cut the pattern just aft of gun port 6 which is also where the quarterdeck starts. I hate making these irreversible decisions; maybe I'll sleep on it.
  3. TBlack
    It's beautiful work, and fun to watch you put it together. But now what happens to this work of art? Tom
  4. TBlack
    Keith, We know from the descriptions in the book that Sophie was, indeed, low in the water. So, the picture is accurate. Tom
  5. TBlack
    Also, if you notice in the photo, above, the main mast shrouds are attached to the black strake, and the wale is immediately below. Speedy's wale looks like this: Significant difference. Also notice that the wale in HMS Sophie follows the waterline along the after part of the ship. I need to do some drafting. Tom
  6. TBlack
    On the fourth try I've finally gotten this little bugger just right. There isn't a single 90 degree angle in it! Now I need to fix the location of the waterline and the wale which is guided by the picture: At the same time, I'm looking at where the quarterdeck bulwark meets the transom, carrying that line downward, and it looks like the outboard window is outboard of the hull line. Any thoughts? Tom
  7. TBlack
    Charles, I have one of these today, minus the flex shaft. And you are absolutely right on all points. It's amazing that I can get anything cut right. Tom
  8. TBlack
    Mark, That looks fabulous! Nice paint work. Tom
  9. TBlack
    Roger, Do you need to use a special blade? Tom
  10. TBlack
    You mean the time they tried to drive the Jeep into the front hall? I think those are high standards! I mean who else would try that?
  11. TBlack
    Dear Dr. I'm sure Allan can help you get to the bottom of your rigging question. I just wanted to mention that your model looks cracker jack, especially the carving. Tom
  12. TBlack
    Great! Thanks, Greg! Oh, and what wood are you using to make your deadeyes? Tom
  13. TBlack
    Greg, I'm having some difficulty tracking down the Euro Tools solder that you recommend. The link above doesn't seem to work, and Googling Euro Tools says page not found. So, where can a guy buy some? Tom
  14. TBlack
    Every once in a while we're entitled to an "aha moment". I just had mine. Kevin, right you are, they are simple, and the aluminum arms should help. The standard clamps only have a throat of a couple of inches. I don't need a lot, but a 3-4" reach would be nice. Thanks for the tip. I owe you one. Tom
  15. TBlack
    Several years ago, when Chuck Passaro was starting to offer blocks through his company, he add a visual tutorial that showed how he mass produced them. Is that tutorial still available? In addition, my brother is holding up the standards of our family. Tom
  16. TBlack
    I'm sure the titebond is adequate. Any way to clamp the wale in position? I like elastic bands with a piece of wood between the wale and the band. Possible? Tom
  17. TBlack
    Mark, Good luck on the op, and speedy recovery. And thanks for following my log. Tom
  18. TBlack
    Whoa! That's a lot of Christmas cards!
  19. TBlack
    Yes, but who's got me?
  20. TBlack
    Keith, The ice might melt before we're ready to celebrate. Tom
  21. TBlack
    I've gotten the other side bulwark pattern in place which allows me to put the aft bulkheads in place: Because the aft bulkheads now don't have the same curvature as originally designed, they are slightly longer (now going in a straight line as opposed to arcing}. See the line I've drawn above. But also, the width between the port and starboard bulkheads now really needs to be determined. I've been using a template that measures 3.5", but that is just a guess. On the plus side, where I drew the counter on my plan and where it needs to be "as built" is coming out perfectly. I may actually be able to pull this off! Tom
  22. TBlack
    Kevin, Did you show the clamps earlier on in your log? If not I would like to see how you build them. Tom
  23. TBlack
    Kevin, Nice haircut! That clamp with the very deep throat: is it commercially available, or is that custom made? You have created a work of art, and I wonder why the builders decided to plank the deck that way instead of straight planks. Tom
  24. TBlack
    Magnificent work, Kevin.
  25. TBlack
    I started to make the counter piece and got this far: In trying to make the curves on the back end I managed to botch it up completely. Start again! So next I thought I ought to pay attention to Chris Watton's wonderful instructions which go toward the bow. I see from other Speedy logs that dealing with the side bulwark patterns can be interesting. Nevertheless, it's time to install on side at a time. Here is my first attempt now drying: At another site I recommended elastics and alligator clips, so couldn't use too many nails. Tom

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