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TBlack

NRG Member
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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. Charles, I have one of these today, minus the flex shaft. And you are absolutely right on all points. It's amazing that I can get anything cut right. Tom
  2. Roger, Do you need to use a special blade? Tom
  3. You mean the time they tried to drive the Jeep into the front hall? I think those are high standards! I mean who else would try that?
  4. Dear Dr. I'm sure Allan can help you get to the bottom of your rigging question. I just wanted to mention that your model looks cracker jack, especially the carving. Tom
  5. Great! Thanks, Greg! Oh, and what wood are you using to make your deadeyes? Tom
  6. Greg, I'm having some difficulty tracking down the Euro Tools solder that you recommend. The link above doesn't seem to work, and Googling Euro Tools says page not found. So, where can a guy buy some? Tom
  7. Every once in a while we're entitled to an "aha moment". I just had mine. Kevin, right you are, they are simple, and the aluminum arms should help. The standard clamps only have a throat of a couple of inches. I don't need a lot, but a 3-4" reach would be nice. Thanks for the tip. I owe you one. Tom
  8. Several years ago, when Chuck Passaro was starting to offer blocks through his company, he add a visual tutorial that showed how he mass produced them. Is that tutorial still available? In addition, my brother is holding up the standards of our family. Tom
  9. I'm sure the titebond is adequate. Any way to clamp the wale in position? I like elastic bands with a piece of wood between the wale and the band. Possible? Tom
  10. Mark, Good luck on the op, and speedy recovery. And thanks for following my log. Tom
  11. I've gotten the other side bulwark pattern in place which allows me to put the aft bulkheads in place: Because the aft bulkheads now don't have the same curvature as originally designed, they are slightly longer (now going in a straight line as opposed to arcing}. See the line I've drawn above. But also, the width between the port and starboard bulkheads now really needs to be determined. I've been using a template that measures 3.5", but that is just a guess. On the plus side, where I drew the counter on my plan and where it needs to be "as built" is coming out perfectly. I may actually be able to pull this off! Tom
  12. Kevin, Did you show the clamps earlier on in your log? If not I would like to see how you build them. Tom
  13. Kevin, Nice haircut! That clamp with the very deep throat: is it commercially available, or is that custom made? You have created a work of art, and I wonder why the builders decided to plank the deck that way instead of straight planks. Tom
  14. I started to make the counter piece and got this far: In trying to make the curves on the back end I managed to botch it up completely. Start again! So next I thought I ought to pay attention to Chris Watton's wonderful instructions which go toward the bow. I see from other Speedy logs that dealing with the side bulwark patterns can be interesting. Nevertheless, it's time to install on side at a time. Here is my first attempt now drying: At another site I recommended elastics and alligator clips, so couldn't use too many nails. Tom
  15. Mark, My experience with waterlines is a lot of fiddly work between black and white until it's right. So you're doing everything according to the book. Also, from this distance, the quarter galleries look good. Tom
  16. Is there something special about those clamps for your project? There are a lot of other ways to secure planks that might be more readily available. I personally use alligator clips and elastic bands. Tom
  17. Gets more complicated. This piece: There's a transverse arc which I've mapped out below: Hard to see the arc in the above drawing, but it's on the lower line on the right picture. I think I can make this piece out of one block. Not sure how yet. These are things they never taught you in college! Or maybe I just went to the wrong college? Tom
  18. Using 5.5' as a guide, I set up a couple of planks to see how it all fits: Now I can mark the bulkheads for the 1/4 deck position. Turning next to the transom area, I have a profile plan as to how it all fits: Notice in my drawing that the Sophie transom is in the same position and same angle as the Speedy. Given that fact, the rest of the area falls into place (theoretically!). It gets a little hairy back here to make everything fit smoothly, and I'm no draftsman (draughtsman, if you're from the UK). Tom
  19. She's fairly faired! Looks a little rough, but the run of the battens is smooth and symmetrical. I'll quit while I'm ahead. Next, I installed the captain's cabin subfloor: This will help me locate the quarterdeck. We know, from the book, that Aubrey can't stand upright in the cabin. Furthermore, he states that when he is sitting down there is 18" of headroom over his head. I calculate that to mean the cabin has a height of 5.5'. Finally, thanks for the likes, and stopping by. If you see a place where I might be going wrong, don't hesitate to put me right. Tom
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