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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. Bit of an up-date: Second planking installed, albeit slowly. Not my favorite part of the construction.: Having done that, I think I'm going to work on the captain's cabin next. It would be nice to see the other side of this vessel for a while. Tom
  2. Keith, Shouldn't "toffs" be capitalized? In any event, the way you tell the real sailors is look at their shoes. Wellies work well; on this side of the pond we do topsiders. Tom
  3. Tom, I'm following you closely on this, as I have to do it with my HMS Sophie build (for the first time) Tom
  4. Tom, What kind of wood did you use to prevent crumbling at that small size?
  5. Tom, the reinforcements around the chock holes are particularly neat and uniform. What's the trick? Tom
  6. I don't even want to think about why a surgeon would need an 18" clamp.
  7. Keith, I'm reminded of the 3 test rule: 10' away, 3' away, right up close. From your photos, it looks like "right up close"; still looks good! Tom
  8. David, Did you notice that Vanguard (Chris) now sells a hull, completely formed, with ribs, so all you have to do is add the interior? In my Sophie build, which is based on Speedy, I'm tempted to just buy the hull. Yours turned out exceptionally well, but it's a bugger to get just right. BTW, That mouse turned out really well. Gotta try it! Tom
  9. Looks pretty good to me. Also, the deck color came out well. Making good progress! Tom
  10. Allan, You don't mention the final dimensions that you require. I have been able to get 1/64" on my table saw. Give it a try, especially since you don't need long strips. Tom
  11. Kev, I'm not sure what you mean by "seized twice". Do you mean is the shroud wrapped around the deadeye and then seized just at the deadeye and then farther up the shroud? And, of course, there are no shrouds at the bowsprit, just stays and no deadeyes. Tom
  12. I'm with Eberhard. It would be a shame to hide that beautiful work of art. Tom
  13. Looks good, bro. Never thought about lacing deadeye lanyards off the model. Gotta try it! Tom
  14. Before I can place the garboard, I have to thin down the back end of the profile former (false keel to some). With the addition of the primary planking, that area is now 7 mm thick and needs reducing to 1.5 mm which also means more feathering of the hull to produce a smooth flow. Having done that, I notice that Chris doesn't expect me to install a garboard stake. I suspect it's because all the planks in the kit are of a uniform width. Nevertheless, I will press on: Looks the same on the other side. I'm using 24 foot planks. It also occurs to me that because the planks are all the same width that there will be stealers aft. Tom
  15. Nipper! Thanks so much for your kind words. I guess I've shown that one doesn't need fancy CAD programs to get a smooth result. Also, my last project (Scud) was greeted with some derision (why bother? Waste of time and talent) until the end (see log). Moral of the story? Don't rush to judgment. Anyway, you and the other 18 people who are following this keep me going and trying my best. Thanks for that. Gregory, I intend to do just what you suggest: 5 real windows and 2 fake. That arrangement will agree with the picture of the stern of the cover of the book. We had some discussion here on the impossibility of having 7 windows in the cabin given what the picture shows of the hull shape (please see post #84), and certainly there are no quarter galleries. Thanks, also, to the others for the "likes", especially my brother, Keith, whose talents and encouragement keep me going! Tom
  16. Small up-date, but life sometimes interferes with ship building: Having built the hull to its new configuration, I'm now trying to follow Chris Watton's excellent instructions on building out the model. One deviation is the placement of the wale, which I think I've figured out to my satisfaction: I only, belatetdly, realized that I don't need to make the wale out of the very nice pear wood supplied, inasmuch as it gets painted black in the end. Next layer will be something less grand. Next step is the garboard and then figure out the plank spacing in between. Tom
  17. Peter, Thanks for your interest and suggestion. I'm kinda constrained by the parameters of the kit and any descriptions that I glean from the book. I figure nobody can tell me I'm wrong. Tom
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