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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. That's what I was hoping Keith was going to do. I've done it several times on small scale. BTW, I'm delighted that Rob, who is much more accomplished than I, agree on this small aspect. Tom
  2. And I hate to mention it, Keith, but knots at this scale are going to be an issue - size wise. Tom
  3. Tricky exercise. Nothing broken. Ratlines look perfect (are there knots on those ratlines? If so, awfully small!) TB
  4. Keith, Roger, My recollection is that it faces up which allows the pole to drop away. Are you going to rig the pole or just lay it on deck? Tom
  5. In order to get the aft bulkheads shaped correctly I've started the hull planking which shows me where I need to fill out the bulkheads: The circled areas are given landings for the planks which provide a visual for what needs filling on the intervening bulkheads. This process seems to work and should provide a smooth hull. Tom
  6. Rob, So, as I understand it, you're trying to figure out how to make the metal fittings that fairlead the chains, and to quote you: " Creating something from total scratch or modifying something from some totally different other thing is a testament to a strong mental prowess….. a fruitful imagination and ingenuity. " I guess you've got it all! Thanks for the journey. Tom
  7. Bummer! But I've often felt that our real creativity is not in the building of the model, but in correcting our mistakes. Tom
  8. Ron, I'm trying to imagine the actual operation of all that threading and twisting, which turned out marvelously, was there any swearing that accompanied that operation?
  9. Jason, You are not bound to the screws that came with the pedestals. I don't know their size, but perhaps a thinner screw would save the day? Alternatively, if you epoxy the pedestal in place and then insert the screw, wouldn't that work ok? You've done such a terrific job so far on this model that I can't stand the fact that mere pedestals are creating a hurdle. Tom
  10. Mark, A lot of PE parts to install, and all looks good. With the 2 PE parts on the upper counter there isn't any room for a name. Doesn't look like you're in over your head. Tom
  11. Nice video, Kurt. Allan and I share one of those fingers. Also, nice to hear your voice after all these years. Tom
  12. Welcome, Peter! Your daughter being in HMAS ships, you and she must be Australian? Also I find it interesting that she served in the Adelaide, one of whose missions is anti-submarine. And then she served in a submarine one of whose missions is anti-frigate. So, she managed both sides of that equation. You must be very proud! Tom
  13. Bill, The storm has hit here, too, which has given me time to work on my build. My build also requires copper plating which I have never done before, so I'll watch your progress for instruction/inspiration. Tom
  14. Rob, I'm sure a good idea, but I'm lost on your reference to office folder tabs. Illustrate? Tom
  15. Everybody seems focused on your placing of the mouldings and name (I agree, totally), but you skipped over the paint job on the transom decorations, some of which are quite small. Yet another display of your talents! Tom
  16. Just as a refresher, here's the picture that is my guide: Note that there is very little tumblehome aft (maybe the wale tucks in a little at the aft end) . I'm using that fact to guide me in forming the last 3 bulkheads which need bulking out. I take it a little bit at a time, so I'm going to be slow. And thanks to all for the likes, checking in, and following. I'll try not to disappoint. And maybe even be a little entertaining. Tom
  17. I've been absent from here, but not the workshop. I'm apparently really slow in envisioning how the hull line are going to work towards the stern. I've finally made some decisions that seem to be working out. Here's a start. Originally I thought the lower counter was convex, but that doesn't leave room for rudder movement. Must be concave: Getting to this place enables me to start to adding planking to the hull which, ultimately, helps to form the bulkheads for a smooth finish. This is going to take a while!
  18. Your ability with the scroll saw is most remarkable. Those bulkheads are works of art in themselves. Tom
  19. I'll second what B.E. and Druxey have written. It also looks like you've got an excellent set of plans to work from. Tom
  20. Dodgeyhack is right, that is a useful tool for the bench. But I suspect the real key is keeping the blade very sharp. Maybe Hollowneck will share with us his technique? Tom
  21. That's not a garage; it's a museum! Tom
  22. Steve, Thanks for this, but I think I'll go with the 7 window option and have the outer two windows be fake, like Fair American. And Sophie is described as being very low in the water. Also, Sophie has royals and stun'sls. Gregory, You can see on my plan where the stern post is. Just aft of it would be the rudder post which, let's imagine, that it stops just below the deck of the captain's cabin and the tiller attaches there. Tom
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