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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Jon, A nice explanation and I'm sure a big help to other first timers. Looks good so far. Tom
  2. TBlack
    My mistake. Must be the late night that fogs my brain. I was thinking 1:64=3/8" to the foot and it's actually 3/16" to the foot. We're all in agreement this morning. Tom
  3. TBlack
    This is becoming an interesting discussion, because the kit calls for a main yard 202mm long (7.953") and suggests that Cochrane extended it to 220mm (8.66"). In this scale, 1:64, that translates to, in the first instance, 21' and in the second 23'. Now I don't know how I'm going to resolve this issue, but I know that I'm a looong way from having to deal with it. And Steve, please don't recede into the background! Tom
  4. TBlack
    OK, Steve, you're a lot further on in the book than I am. Let me catch up. Tom
  5. TBlack
    First, I am delighted that I've got an audience that is appreciative of my modest efforts. Thank you all for being here. Secondly, I hope Chris Watton doesn't stumble of this log and see how I'm ruining his perfect kit! He'll never sell me another thing! Steve: once I figure out the shape and dimensions of the stern area, I need to go back and reread Master and Commander to see if Aubrey provides any more detail on the rest of Sophie. We know that the "forecastle" is not a raised deck but just an area of the main deck, and that there is an elm tree pump up there as well. Big assumption, but perhaps the main yard is as supplied in the kit? Tom
  6. TBlack
    Holidays over, back to the shop. Making some progress, albeit slowly. I'm trying to get the stern section together and flowing smoothly. I've added the gun port patterns and one hull plank: Now I'm working on fabricating two of these: Happy new year to all! Tom
  7. TBlack
    Msgt. Ray, Mark makes a good point. How far down the rabbit hole do you want to go? Yes, the forestay and preventer stay is rigged incorrectly, but will your audience know the difference? I stand by my previous recommendation. Do a little trimming and tightening; fix the masts. It will pass muster. Don't make perfection the enemy of the good. As an aside: I'm thinking, Master Sergeant, fighter aircraft. Does that mean Marines? Tom
  8. TBlack
    Ray, I’m going to depart from the considerable wisdom and advice given by Roger and Druxey. I had a similar problem a few years ago (see log Researching St. George) where the bowsprit and attendant rigging was a tangled mess. That area I cut away and redid from scratch. The rest of the rigging I left in place and tightened it up. My reasoning was that I didn’t want to add work if I didn’t have to. Your situation looks like the main mast and rigging needs a redo. However, it looks like you can save the lower shrouds. Hard to tell from the photo what the main top shrouds look like. BTW, when you go to buy the Q tips be careful; they sell 2 kinds. The one to avoid is the one where the stem has break away joints. The least little pressure and they break in your hand. Most frustrating! Also, Mark’s suggestion is spot on. Longridge’s book would be helpful, and there are many build logs on this site that may supply help. In the search box (upper right) type in Victory. Tom
  9. TBlack
    Mark, If it's any consolation, I would have done that job in the same order. Tom
  10. TBlack
    Andy, Do you suppose the pictures are too large for the program? Tom
  11. TBlack
    Mark, That was a fast turnaround. Impressive recovery; you must be one solid fella! Tom
  12. TBlack
    I think it looks terrific! Nicely painted, crisp, good contrast. Bravo Zulu! As I recall, your surgery was scheduled for the 16th, All done? And already back in the shop! Tom
  13. TBlack
    To all who have posted "likes" and especially you 9 who are following my modest attempts I wish you a joyous Christmas day and a productive modelling new year! Bless you all. Tom
  14. TBlack
    Mic, Delighted to have you aboard! A French influence is always welcome. Are you modelling anything? Tom
  15. TBlack
    With reference to my post #37, dealing with the gun port pattern, I decided to do a little drafting to see the magnitude of the issue: Fortunately, I don't have to do any cutting; it's more a question of adding a little bit at the top, and more at the bottom.
  16. TBlack
    Keith, Your fingerprints are all OVER this website, which suggests to me that you got all the social gracious genes in the family. But it doesn't stop there. This piece of art is at a scale of 0.1": 1' if I remember correctly. I don't know how you do it. To Iraymo: Keith and I were long tucked in for the night when that happened. I can tell you that, fortunately, the double door to the hall was 2" too narrow to allow the escapade's conclusion. But we woke up the next morning to find the Jeep on the porch. Now, Keith was quite young at the time, so he may not remember this.
  17. TBlack
    Hi Keith, The windows I've drawn, above, include the sash. Yes, I could make the space between the windows smaller, but then the whole transom would not be as wide. That would fix my issue of not too much transom sticking out from the hull (think Fair American). But then it would really depart from the picture in post 33. Either way I go, I'm wrong! I think I'll just let it be as you see it and plunge onward. Tom
  18. TBlack
    Keith, Or are you suggesting I should make the whole thing smaller? Need to think about it overnight. Tom
  19. TBlack
    Keith, I think the piece is wider than in the picture, but I didn't want too much of the transom ends sticking out from the hull: With reference to the picture (post 33) where the quarterdeck bulwark meets the transom, from that point on the transom, drawing a line straight down, that line crosses the window (#2 in from the outboard side) about 1/4 to 1/2 of the width of that window. As you can see from the photo above I've got the bulwarks hitting the corner of the outboard window. So, I'm making the transom wider than in the picture, but, as I mentioned, I don't want too much transom ends out there flapping in the breeze. It looks unsightly.
  20. TBlack
    Keith, Here's how that piece fits: Ideally, the bottom of the pattern should be along the bottom of the counter piece. Moving the pattern down, lowers the gun port, #6, at the far right too close to the main deck. So I can't move anything forward of gun 6. I don't care about gun port #7; it gets covered up (gun 7 is on the quarterdeck). Cutting the pattern aft of gun 6 is ok; it just means I have to cut planking stock the same thickness as the pattern, no problem. The tricky part is getting the new sheer line smoothly executed.
  21. TBlack
    I'm just thinking out loud here, but it helps to clear my head. The gun port pattern, provided in the kit, sweeps upward toward the rear: On the Sophie there is less sheer at the aft end (see photo in post #33), so I think I need to cut the pattern just aft of gun port 6 which is also where the quarterdeck starts. I hate making these irreversible decisions; maybe I'll sleep on it.
  22. TBlack
    It's beautiful work, and fun to watch you put it together. But now what happens to this work of art? Tom
  23. TBlack
    Keith, We know from the descriptions in the book that Sophie was, indeed, low in the water. So, the picture is accurate. Tom
  24. TBlack
    Also, if you notice in the photo, above, the main mast shrouds are attached to the black strake, and the wale is immediately below. Speedy's wale looks like this: Significant difference. Also notice that the wale in HMS Sophie follows the waterline along the after part of the ship. I need to do some drafting. Tom
  25. TBlack
    On the fourth try I've finally gotten this little bugger just right. There isn't a single 90 degree angle in it! Now I need to fix the location of the waterline and the wale which is guided by the picture: At the same time, I'm looking at where the quarterdeck bulwark meets the transom, carrying that line downward, and it looks like the outboard window is outboard of the hull line. Any thoughts? Tom

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