TBlack
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Druxey, I'm guessing the finish on the metal work is the result of your chemical treatment. Which color is that? Tom- 433 replies
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Tom, That would be Liverpool? Which reminds me that you need to show us how you do small stern carvings. Nevertheless, presumably, you need to set the sails on this long boat, and, hopefully, that will also be part of the tutorial? Tom
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Crack filling technique
TBlack replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I'd go with the PVA and sawdust routine. Although, having looked at what you've done so far with the frames on your first time out, I can't understand how the planking isn't fitting better. I'm 77 and sometimes my hands get shaky, too. I find that a martini helps steady me down! Tom -
Tom, So far, nice presentation. Very clear, even I can follow! Although you are furling your sails, will you cover how to affect a set to the sails? Tom
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Mighty tight quarters to be adding all that detail. Must be nimble fingers! I'm trying to imagine the sequence necessary to get it all to fit. Tom
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Michael, I hate to give you an opposing view, but I doubt that there would be many here who would agree that you are ham fisted in your model boat building. While I thing generalists are a good thing in this world (I count myself as one), I'm starting to believe that you can do anything you set your mind to do. Furthermore (I'm not done yet!), you are generous with your time and knowledge beyond normal expectations. OK, I'm done, but I think you need a hug. Tom
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Yes, I think you call them fairleads. I do need some kind of fairlead for the anchor rode. As you can see, if the line comes through the chock, it won't line up with the winch properly without a fairlead on the deck. What to do? Tom
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I'm told that I act like a teenager and look much younger than my 77 years. Here's a up-date: The boom crutch is just there for the photo. And Keith A. the bow chock was made using your method. Thanks for the guidance! Tom
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OK, Druxey, now you've piqued my curiosity. If you can get the port side in one shot, what's different on the starboard side? Tom
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Alex, I see that you get a lot of compliments on your handiwork. But does anyone notice your excellent photography? A viewing pleasure! Tom
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Glue for template
TBlack replied to Koopyetz's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I also use rubber cement for the same reason Bob does. I get mine at the drug store. Tom -
Jean Pierre, Welcome. Looking at some of the accomplishments here can be a little intimidating. But there are all levels of talent (just look at my stuff). If you participate here, you'll find that your talents will improve and that the members are most encouraging and helpful. Tom
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I use onlinemetals.com
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As you may recall, I've been doing this project at the behest of my Uncle Jon. He died last night (age 90). I was able to send him photos (enclosed) of my progress: I'll finish this project, and hopefully get to deliver it to his home in Maine this summer. Tom
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Victor, Ed Tosti has a Unimat SL1000. Look at his work on this site. It sounds like you’re all tooled up and just waiting for the move. Hopefully not out of the Boston area? Tom
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OK, Dr. Victor? Kidding aside. If you're going for fully framed, you'll need to tool up. How much work space have you got? Tom
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Doctor, You've started much the same way that I did, by bashing a kit. The next step is to build your own POB hull; and then you're free to be able to model any ship you want, big or small. Furthermore, your being in the medical profession allows you direct access to many tools ship modelers also use. You're a natural! Tom
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Justifying the purchase of a mill
TBlack replied to Captain T's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Tony, when I started modeling it was with kits. And along about the 3rd or 4th there were parts of the kit that I could do better (blocks, gratings, etc.). Pretty soon I figured I could also do a POB hull, just with the stuff you have plus a preac saw. That was it. Haven’t had to build a kit since which opens the world to you of possible modeling subjects. Now the mill. I bought one 3-4 years ago. Huge difference only limited by your imagination. I got a Sherline with DRO. I can’t opine as to the flexibility of the Proxxon, but it’s probably a good entry tool. Heck, at least you’ll be able to drill holes in a straight line! Go for it! Tom -
Nice work and gives me an idea. but I thought they are turnbuckles on this side of the pond and bottle screws in the old country. Did I get that wrong? Tom
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All you guys are much more artistic than I am. Therefore, my approach is to make a huge copy (8.5X11) of the object (in my case usually a shield). Paint that. Then go to the copier and reduce to the size needed. Next make a copy of the reduced shield onto decal paper. Tom
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German precision?
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Bob, Wonderful set of photos, and you obviously know the Bar Harbor 31. But my hull doesn't really fit the Herreshoff design. I had originally thought the boat would make a nice example of a New York 40, and I could have made the deck and rigging to match, but then the heavy hull didn't fit the rest of it. With the full keel I'm thinking the hull fits a Grand Banks fishing schooner. Unfortunately, the owner wants a gaff rigged sloop. Tom
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I've finished with the deck furniture with the exception of the dinghy that sits on the port side amidships which is where I will now turn my attention.
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This fitting for the boom was a bit of a challenge for me. It's hard to tell from the photo, but there are 8 pieces all soldered together.
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