TBlack
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Jean Pierre, Welcome. Looking at some of the accomplishments here can be a little intimidating. But there are all levels of talent (just look at my stuff). If you participate here, you'll find that your talents will improve and that the members are most encouraging and helpful. Tom
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I use onlinemetals.com -
As you may recall, I've been doing this project at the behest of my Uncle Jon. He died last night (age 90). I was able to send him photos (enclosed) of my progress: I'll finish this project, and hopefully get to deliver it to his home in Maine this summer. Tom
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Victor, Ed Tosti has a Unimat SL1000. Look at his work on this site. It sounds like you’re all tooled up and just waiting for the move. Hopefully not out of the Boston area? Tom
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OK, Dr. Victor? Kidding aside. If you're going for fully framed, you'll need to tool up. How much work space have you got? Tom
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Doctor, You've started much the same way that I did, by bashing a kit. The next step is to build your own POB hull; and then you're free to be able to model any ship you want, big or small. Furthermore, your being in the medical profession allows you direct access to many tools ship modelers also use. You're a natural! Tom
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Justifying the purchase of a mill
TBlack replied to Captain T's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Tony, when I started modeling it was with kits. And along about the 3rd or 4th there were parts of the kit that I could do better (blocks, gratings, etc.). Pretty soon I figured I could also do a POB hull, just with the stuff you have plus a preac saw. That was it. Haven’t had to build a kit since which opens the world to you of possible modeling subjects. Now the mill. I bought one 3-4 years ago. Huge difference only limited by your imagination. I got a Sherline with DRO. I can’t opine as to the flexibility of the Proxxon, but it’s probably a good entry tool. Heck, at least you’ll be able to drill holes in a straight line! Go for it! Tom -
Nice work and gives me an idea. but I thought they are turnbuckles on this side of the pond and bottle screws in the old country. Did I get that wrong? Tom
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All you guys are much more artistic than I am. Therefore, my approach is to make a huge copy (8.5X11) of the object (in my case usually a shield). Paint that. Then go to the copier and reduce to the size needed. Next make a copy of the reduced shield onto decal paper. Tom
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German precision?
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Bob, Wonderful set of photos, and you obviously know the Bar Harbor 31. But my hull doesn't really fit the Herreshoff design. I had originally thought the boat would make a nice example of a New York 40, and I could have made the deck and rigging to match, but then the heavy hull didn't fit the rest of it. With the full keel I'm thinking the hull fits a Grand Banks fishing schooner. Unfortunately, the owner wants a gaff rigged sloop. Tom
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I've finished with the deck furniture with the exception of the dinghy that sits on the port side amidships which is where I will now turn my attention.
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This fitting for the boom was a bit of a challenge for me. It's hard to tell from the photo, but there are 8 pieces all soldered together.
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It depends on the wood used to fabricate the blocks. Basswood won't do. But any hardwood should be ok. Using a pin vise and a #78 drill should work all right. I'm guessing on the drill size, but #75-80 should do it for your needs at 1:64. Tom
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Thanks, Keith A. I can't help myself. If I'm going to work on something it has to be as good as I can give. BTW, you have been my mentor in many ways over the years. If my efforts pass your inspection, I'm good to go! Tom PS. See this guy, my grandson, next to me? He just had his 11th birthday today 4/19. I need to change my photo.
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Keith, No, just that he bought it in Kennebunkport years ago. And just to be clear, yes, I’m making this boat better than it deserves. In return I get to try out techniques without worrying that it will harm Uncle Jon’s enjoyment. For example, I’ve cut two gears, using my rotary table for the first time, and cut two bushings for the anchor winch moderately successfully. And, you haven’t seen it yet, there is a bracket to hold the boom to the mast which is in 7 parts all needing soldering. So, I’m gaining confidence that one day I will be at your level of accomplishment. Tom PS If you’d like to take over as prime contact for our uncle, I can give you his email.
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When I started this project I thought the hull was sacrosanct (don't alter!). Now I'm sorry I didn't take a scalpel to it. Nevertheless, I'm working around its imperfections. Today I decided it needed a cap rail, so installed one. I think it makes the boat more "finished". Tom
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Glue question
TBlack replied to Peanut6's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Kev, I, too, use the titebond, but the yellow stuff. It's more water resistant. I find that 20 minutes is a good wait time. And while you're waiting, can't you be preparing the second plank or work on some other part of the model? Tom -
Thanks, Keith. Now to figure out how to glue it all together! And perhaps add a pawl. Tom
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OK, now attempting to produce an anchor bitt and seat for the bowsprit. Here's where I am so far: Nothing is glued; just placed to get the relationship and make sure stuff is lined up.
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I, too, have a 10" Rockwell Delta saw (for 50 years!) and have not worried about kerf loss, but I've never spent $100 on a 2' piece of wood. I'm learning a lot about saw blades and Thin Rip guides. Tom
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Don, What's the diameter of the rod? And the scale? I'm assuming you have a lathe, and that you've incorporated the various rings, etc. in the profile? Tom
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Keith, For you. Everything just placed for photo. I added the skylight; not on the plans, but too dark below w/o. May have to move it slightly to starboard to allow for dinghy on port side.
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John, Maybe, the brass screw cost $2.00! Tom
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Next comes the building of the stovepipe. Supposed to look like this: First step: buy a brass screw: Second step, cut down the top: Third step, cut off the threads: Fourth step, drill out the center: F Fifth step, create vents: sixth step, make a pattern for the top seventh step, fold and solder: eighth step, attach to pipe: Finally, paint flat black, and install.
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