ChrisLBren

Thank you guys😉.
I added some parts inside the hull - limber strake, sleepers and breast hooks. Now is the right time for wales installation.

Guess who's back on my workbench ?  My old friend the Wappen Von Hamburg.  My three year old twins are fascinated by her (they think she looks like a pirate ship).  I managed to sand off the wipe on poly on the lower hull - seal the cracks in the planking with epoxy on my so so planking job (she will be painted off white anyway below the wales) and seal up the deck (from my sorry attempt to show simulated Hahn style deck openings back in 2002).  Ive attached some paint pigment guides from my earlier research - unlike my Confederacy - I want paint her to look as realistic for the period she existed in the 17th Century.  
 
The LGV in 1/36th is still waiting in the wings as is my Confederacy - Im getting back to into the hobby.   I'm finding working on a kit after a long breaks from modeling is relaxing and fun ! 

I am not sure if I posted this yet but I want to give everyone a detailed view of the model as it will ultimately appear....hopefully.   Here is a link to download sheet one of the plans.  I am going to shoot for launching this before it is completed so it is important that you guys see what the Frigate Winchelsea will ultimately look like.   This shows the profile and stern view.   Dont worry, like all of my plans, this first sheet wont contain any parts so no need to worry about pirating.
 
Download and have a look!!!  Because the image has very fine lines so a jpg like posted above is just too light.  Click below for full size sheet.
 
Winchelseaplanone.pdf
 
 

Although very from time to time (lack of time due to job matters), I keep on with my model.

I also just got a wonderful batch of raw cherry lumber.  I thought I would show you guys.   The Winnie will also be available in cherry.   From this very cherry board.  Its really nice stuff and some of the best I have bought.  Very clear cherry with little to no gum pockets and sap spots.  Once I get some of this milled along with a few more boards of cedar I will actually start laser cutting parts for the first two Winnie parts.  This way I have a bunch in stock when I am ready to launch.
 

 
 

Wow - looks terrific !!!

Thank you,   and the play continue
 
 

Thanks everybody!  We are fully settled in the apartment and had a series of housewarming parties, kid birthdays, vacations and other offtopic activities. 
 
I finally got some time to resume modelling. The longer the pause is, the harder it is to resume. Especially since I am facing is an internal planking, which is a tricky thing if you want it to be neat. And not all mistakes could be hidden by sanding, since a lot of planks have different thickness. D-oh!
 
Clamping jig to the table is very convenient, I am glad I added a vice to make it possible, can recommend!

First boxwood pieces on the model! Future limber streaks. Planing during a sunset is very relaxing.

Made a mill fixture to route a rabbet into that boards.

 
It works, but the cut is not very smooth. Overall, this boxwood tends to chip a bit when you mill it freehand of when you scrape it. That is unusual after pear that scrapes smooth. So I need to rely more on files and planes, using scraping for finishing touches, not for shaping

 
I haven't faired the internal part of the hull in delicate areas, so now I am repaying that debt by fairing it now, trying not to scratch the keelson. And hey, it's 21st century, moving pictures are a thing!  

Frames are scratched with a diamond file to improve glue adhesion and break down the surface patina layer.

Final fit is checked with a test plank next to it. Of course, the bottom of the plank is shaped to follow the curvature, and underside edges are broken to simplify the fit with the next plank.

After the glue-up, some final blending is done with fine sandpaper and scraping:

 
And the end result is "hoorray, I installed the first plank in a few years"  
Now it's just a matter of adding the rest of the planks. 

It's so great to be back!  

Wow - looks terrific !!!

Hello gentlemen,

The next step will be laying the deck in this area. I will use a template and this is what it should give :






At first, the slats :



To be continued ...


 

Thank you guys😊.
Making of taffrail.

Hi Dowmer, deck clamps are made from pear wood. I use the old bender (first picture) for wood bending. Not the shaped end, but the heating tube to which I place a water-soaked cloth. Steam from the water heats the wood and makes the bending easier.
The deck clamps are attached to the hull. Now I am going to finish the stern.

Hello gentlemen !

Slight progress ... still at the bottom of the hold !














Have a good day !

Patrick

Deck clamps preparation.

Thanks for saying...
 
For those who asked, here is a non blurry photo of the figurehead.  It was getting dirty do to handling with dirty fingers.  So I cleaned it up and applied a coat of sanding sealer.  It looks really good in person but is surprisingly hard to photograph in focus.  The color matches the stem quite well and its still hard to believe this was carved by machine. I didnt use wipe on poly because I dont want it to darken too much.  The stem where it sits will be painted black eventually.   Compare with the contemporary model.  You can see how crude it was carved,  I dare say that Jack did an excellent job improving its appearance.
 
Actually the knee is painted blue and black below it.  I am not sure if I will do the same.  I may just go with black.  Note the headrails.  They are not carved.  Instead there are friezes painted on them.  That will be an interesting detail to replicate.


 
Chuck

Hey Chuck,
Youre doing a beautiful job here - as Greg suggested - maybe try another finish.  I do like the idea of either a shellac finish which the masters used - wouldnt be tough to learn that technique or sanding sealer for an unfinished look....
 
Regardless - nice work !!!

Hey Chuck,
Youre doing a beautiful job here - as Greg suggested - maybe try another finish.  I do like the idea of either a shellac finish which the masters used - wouldnt be tough to learn that technique or sanding sealer for an unfinished look....
 
Regardless - nice work !!!

Hey Chuck,
Youre doing a beautiful job here - as Greg suggested - maybe try another finish.  I do like the idea of either a shellac finish which the masters used - wouldnt be tough to learn that technique or sanding sealer for an unfinished look....
 
Regardless - nice work !!!

Hey Chuck,
Youre doing a beautiful job here - as Greg suggested - maybe try another finish.  I do like the idea of either a shellac finish which the masters used - wouldnt be tough to learn that technique or sanding sealer for an unfinished look....
 
Regardless - nice work !!!

Greetings MSW.    I am back after completing Chuck's Confederacy scratch after a 7 year build finished in 2016.  (he did give me some cheats on the figurehead and some sculptures....)  She is an incredibly designed kit - I learned a ton - and ironically it was built in several apartments while single with nothing but a crappy Delta scroll saw and an old Preac table saw, along with Xacto knifes.  Jeff Hayes perfectly milled wood helped a ton !  And then I got married and my twins were born which slowed down everything in 2013. 
 
I have always wanted to build a fully framed French ship and collected a full library of Ancre subjects (the 74 Gun Series, Monographs of the 74 timbers, Commerce de Marseille, and La Renommee).    So  after buying a house in the suburbs - I built out a workshop.  I gathered the necessary tools over the past few years -  Byrnes Table Saw, Thickness Sander, Disc Sander,  Proxxon Mill, Proxxon Planer, Wood River spindle sander and a Dewalt full size table saw to reduce my flitch of pear wood to usable size.  I have also collected Lie Nielsen chisels and its Lee Valley Sharpening system.  
 
So it seems I can't fail right ?  
 
I did...
 
Call it being a Dad of young twins or just sheer intimidation.  I could not complete the stem for La Renommee to my standard so I quit.  I then decided - maybe a simpler subject would work - so I began construction on La Jacinthe in 1/32 scale.  Not only did I have issues with consistency of enlarging the plans (thanks FedEx/UPS store) - I grew bored with its construction - I have already successfully completed several plank on bulkhead models. 
 
So I returned to the enlarged plans that Delacroix sent me for Le Gros Ventre in 1/36 scale - a noble subject - with nice lines, simpler sculptures and yet a serious challenge.  I have heard from several members on this forum that building fully framed in larger scale is easier...
 
So here is the start of my build log - it will be messy showing all of the mistakes in order to build a fully framed model.  Here are my results after 2 months of work - the last photo showing my useable parts.

Thanks for all the likes and comments.
 
I decided to start work on the exterior planking above the wales, the wales themselves were masked off as you can see to try and protect them somewhat.
Im going to try and follow my planking plan as close as the hull allows.
First 3 strakes completed and beginning on the fourth, and it’s quite close to plan so far.
 
ben

Next parts - keelson, sternson and stemson.

Looks terrific Marsalv  I am also thinking of not adding the additional ports and build her as launched.  I still need to finish my keel assembly !  
Chris

It seems like forever since I started on the second wale layer. Anyway, 3 of the 4 strakes are in. Each strake was made from 5 or 6 planks. I could do the last strake now, but I think it would be better to wait until at least one strake below the wale is in. This strake would include the drop plank at the fore end of the ship. Adding it now would give me a better visual for getting a good joint to the underlying wale layer and make it easier to sand it afterwards. I remember this issue coming up on the Cheerful build where I regretted not doing it this way. I could add the black strake now after doing a bit more sanding above it.
 
The wale is tapered down to less that 1/64th at the stem from 3/4"-1" out. This was mostly done with a miniature chisel from Veritas. https://www.fine-tools.com/miniature-chisels.html I left one layer untouched, so you can better see this. 


Mike

Gorgeous model - congratulations !