usedtosail

Well, it's been a little while - just over a year since I updated this log. It was not my favorite year. There was a lot of difficulty and loss, as for so many people. My model making mojo was at a low ebb, and I just couldn't manage to work on projects. But I am slowly getting back into the swing of things. 
 
Eventually, far down the line when the Speedy is finished, I would like to display it with a boat right up alongside, because that does so much to give a sense of scale. To that end I purchased the 22 foot yawl kit from Vanguard Models, and I decided that working on that boat now would be a good way to get moving again. 
 
A lot of people have included these little kits in their larger build logs, so I imagine these are already pretty familiar to many. They are small and fiddly, but they look well designed for what they are, and I've seen great results from others' efforts. So I'll give it a try. 
 
The entirety of the kit: 1 laser cut mdf sheet, 3 pear and 1 brass. I decided to replace the pear wood planking with basswood, just because I like the lighter color and it will go with the choices I've made for Speedy better. 
 

 
Here the mdf bulkheads are laid out on the base, but not yet fixed with glue. The two pear wood bulkheads are not pictured. 
 

 
Next, the pear wood keel is slotted into place, and glue is brushed into the joints. Note the reinforcements pieces by the bow. There are a couple smaller ones at the stern that can't be made out in this photo. 
 

 
Then the bulkheads are fared to allow the planking to lie flush against them. I joined the club of broken stems at this step, as many have before me. The wood is very thin here around the slot, and I was clumsy. But it was easy enough to just superglue the piece back in place and saturate the area with a little glue. Since I will be painting the entire outside I am not too worried about blemishes. 
 

 
Here I have laid on most of the basswood planking. I followed the practice in the Speedy manual, tapering the planks toward the bow. I did a somewhat rough job, but again I think it won't be too apparent once the hull is painted. 
 

 
And with a good amount of sanding and the application of some filler, we're looking a lot smoother. I used "GoodFilla" brand filler. It was harder than expected, but I think that was actually an asset. You can get a nice strong, smooth finish. 
 

 
Once the planking is all installed and sanded and filled, the model is removed from the base. 
 

 
Then the frames are broken away. They came off more easily than I had feared. I had been worried because basswood is on the softer side, and I wasn't sure how tightly the super glue would grip it. You can see the bottoms of the frames are meant to remain in place. One of them came out entirely, but that shouldn't be a problem. The small amount of filler pushed up through the gaps in the planks will be hidden under the brass deck pieces. 
 

 
The top of the 2nd to last frame, in pear wood, has subsequently been removed. (The two pear wood bulkheads will be painted red on the inside). Now I am sanding the interior a bit, and then I will rub it down with some wipe on poly and start attaching the simulated frames. 
 
Thanks for looking. 
- James
 

some small advances. This galley stove is keeping me very busy!
 

Post One hundred and Seventy-three
 
A question of display
 I thought about making a support arrangement of keel blocks supplemented by small cradles much in the way that I did for Pegasus. (below) It is quite a time-consuming set-up and has implications for Sphinx where the display case height is already fixed.

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Fortunately, I rather like the clear acrylic stands provided by Chris, they are nicely designed, unobtrusive, and fulfil the purpose.

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The engraved nameplate for Sphinx I like very much.
 
How to display the other items within the case is also on my mind but having made them I certainly don’t want to omit the three ships boats.

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At present Sphinx sits atop Cheerful purely for convenience but this won’t be the final display location.

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I could play around endlessly with positioning the other items within the case, but this is fairly pleasing on my eye, and Life is simply too short.

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The case also provides a convenient home to display Syren’s splendid little Double Capstan model.

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Cover on time….

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This is where Sphinx will be displayed at least for the present.
 
Not ideal as the low level means clear viewing of her highly decorative stern is tricky. Not that it matters as I’m not open to the public, and I know what it’s like.😉
 

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By pure good fortune the base slips neatly between the legs of the Console table currently displaying Pegasus.
 
It is perhaps appropriate that the two ships are displayed together, both being sixth rates of the same era.
 
The models also share a common heritage, both being designed by the talented Mr Watton, altho’ with a good number of years in-between.
 
It was partly that I already had a fully masted and rigged Sixth rate that I didn’t feel too badly about consigning the kit masting and rigging elements to the spares box.
 
This is not quite the end of my Sphinx journey as I now have to move onto compiling a pictorial build record book as I have done with all my builds.
 
I will return with something considerably smaller for my next project.
 
Regards,
 
 
B.E.
14/10/2022

 

Its been a while since the last update but I have been making some progress with the rigging. I finished rigging the lower shroud deadeyes and the stays. I started to move onto the futtock staves and ratlines by first enlarging the supplied plans that show the ratlines to the same scale as the model, cutting out the shroud sections and gluing them to some manila folder material. I trimmed them to fit behind the shrouds and immediately saw that the mizzen mast was too high! The mizzen mast top was almost as.high as the main top, so I should have noticed it sooner. I made the mast the correct height but it did not fit all the way into the hull when I installed it. So off came the mizzen shrouds and stay and out came the mast. I trimmed the bottom of the mast to fit more into the hull and checked the height, which was now good. I was able to salvage most of the shrouds but I did have to remake one pair and the stay. These are now re-installed and I just need to tighten the shroud lashings and tie them off to the shrouds.
 

 
While I was reworking the mizzen mast I also started adding the futtock staves to the fore and main shrouds.
 

 
I have also started making the futtock shrouds using the supplied PE hooks. I did have to carefully drill out the holes in the hooks to fit the line for the shrouds.

You have created a true masterpiece, BE. Very well done.

You have created a true masterpiece, BE. Very well done.

Its been a while since the last update but I have been making some progress with the rigging. I finished rigging the lower shroud deadeyes and the stays. I started to move onto the futtock staves and ratlines by first enlarging the supplied plans that show the ratlines to the same scale as the model, cutting out the shroud sections and gluing them to some manila folder material. I trimmed them to fit behind the shrouds and immediately saw that the mizzen mast was too high! The mizzen mast top was almost as.high as the main top, so I should have noticed it sooner. I made the mast the correct height but it did not fit all the way into the hull when I installed it. So off came the mizzen shrouds and stay and out came the mast. I trimmed the bottom of the mast to fit more into the hull and checked the height, which was now good. I was able to salvage most of the shrouds but I did have to remake one pair and the stay. These are now re-installed and I just need to tighten the shroud lashings and tie them off to the shrouds.
 

 
While I was reworking the mizzen mast I also started adding the futtock staves to the fore and main shrouds.
 

 
I have also started making the futtock shrouds using the supplied PE hooks. I did have to carefully drill out the holes in the hooks to fit the line for the shrouds.

Looks very nice, well done

Its been a while since the last update but I have been making some progress with the rigging. I finished rigging the lower shroud deadeyes and the stays. I started to move onto the futtock staves and ratlines by first enlarging the supplied plans that show the ratlines to the same scale as the model, cutting out the shroud sections and gluing them to some manila folder material. I trimmed them to fit behind the shrouds and immediately saw that the mizzen mast was too high! The mizzen mast top was almost as.high as the main top, so I should have noticed it sooner. I made the mast the correct height but it did not fit all the way into the hull when I installed it. So off came the mizzen shrouds and stay and out came the mast. I trimmed the bottom of the mast to fit more into the hull and checked the height, which was now good. I was able to salvage most of the shrouds but I did have to remake one pair and the stay. These are now re-installed and I just need to tighten the shroud lashings and tie them off to the shrouds.
 

 
While I was reworking the mizzen mast I also started adding the futtock staves to the fore and main shrouds.
 

 
I have also started making the futtock shrouds using the supplied PE hooks. I did have to carefully drill out the holes in the hooks to fit the line for the shrouds.

Its been a while since the last update but I have been making some progress with the rigging. I finished rigging the lower shroud deadeyes and the stays. I started to move onto the futtock staves and ratlines by first enlarging the supplied plans that show the ratlines to the same scale as the model, cutting out the shroud sections and gluing them to some manila folder material. I trimmed them to fit behind the shrouds and immediately saw that the mizzen mast was too high! The mizzen mast top was almost as.high as the main top, so I should have noticed it sooner. I made the mast the correct height but it did not fit all the way into the hull when I installed it. So off came the mizzen shrouds and stay and out came the mast. I trimmed the bottom of the mast to fit more into the hull and checked the height, which was now good. I was able to salvage most of the shrouds but I did have to remake one pair and the stay. These are now re-installed and I just need to tighten the shroud lashings and tie them off to the shrouds.
 

 
While I was reworking the mizzen mast I also started adding the futtock staves to the fore and main shrouds.
 

 
I have also started making the futtock shrouds using the supplied PE hooks. I did have to carefully drill out the holes in the hooks to fit the line for the shrouds.

You have created a true masterpiece, BE. Very well done.

Its been a while since the last update but I have been making some progress with the rigging. I finished rigging the lower shroud deadeyes and the stays. I started to move onto the futtock staves and ratlines by first enlarging the supplied plans that show the ratlines to the same scale as the model, cutting out the shroud sections and gluing them to some manila folder material. I trimmed them to fit behind the shrouds and immediately saw that the mizzen mast was too high! The mizzen mast top was almost as.high as the main top, so I should have noticed it sooner. I made the mast the correct height but it did not fit all the way into the hull when I installed it. So off came the mizzen shrouds and stay and out came the mast. I trimmed the bottom of the mast to fit more into the hull and checked the height, which was now good. I was able to salvage most of the shrouds but I did have to remake one pair and the stay. These are now re-installed and I just need to tighten the shroud lashings and tie them off to the shrouds.
 

 
While I was reworking the mizzen mast I also started adding the futtock staves to the fore and main shrouds.
 

 
I have also started making the futtock shrouds using the supplied PE hooks. I did have to carefully drill out the holes in the hooks to fit the line for the shrouds.

Hancing pieces and volutes....
 
I'm a little embarrassed that it has been so long that I've been away, somewhat from the shipyard but also this wonderful site.  With the weather starting to turn and a bit more available time it seemed a good time to get back into things and try to pick up from a point that I left a little disheartened so many months ago.  To be able to move forward, I had to come up with a solution for the hancing pieces which should then really allow much of the final hull form to be finalised.  The problem I faced stemmed from the fact that I had to come up with a hancing piece volute 6mm high (per NMM plans) to transition the upper rails into the waist, and following a profile already established for the other rails.  Although these are not large details, they are features that to my eye need to be sufficiently elegant and accurate to avoid detracting from the lines of the hull.  I tried many different approaches, but here is the one that worked best for me and provided a method of construction that allowed consistent results.  I'll apologize in advance for quality of the photographs, I was so focused on the work and forgot to check the photo quality as I progressed.
 
2.2 mm holes were drilled using a pin vise into some 2mm pear wood (actually 1.5mm + 0.5mm pear laminated together cross grain because I didn't have any 2mm sheet stock), this matches the starting thickness used for the upper rails which started as 2x2mm square strip.  (A 2.2mm hole was found through visual trial and error to introduce the gradual narrowing of the rail into the end of the volute).  A 1.5mm diameter recess was then carefully made at the edge using a round needle file at 45deg to the bottom of the hole.  Each 'blank' was then cut from the sheet, given a slight reduced profile using an exacto blade, and a thin cut made above the filed lobe (explanation below). 

Small sections of 1.5mm diameter pear dowel were then glued into the 1.5mm recess, so they very slightly protruded above the top of the block.  Sufficient PVA glue was used to ensure that these were well bonded.  Once dry, a the top of the blanks were gently cut back and carefully finished against a circular sander so that the top edge of the blank was tangential to the top of the 2.2mm drilled hole (the cut previously made above the recess allows this section to release easily as it will no longer be needed.

A length of 2x2mm pear wood strip was scraped with the same molding profile as used previously in the build, but care taken to leave an untouched section toward the end.  The volute blanks were then attached to the unfinished end of the scraped molding.  PVA glue was used generously, and left to dry overnight to ensure a full strength bond.  Once dry, the excess was then carefully cut away to give proportions pleasing to the eye (mine at least) and ensure that the final volute form would be 6mm high.  The rough cut was then very carefully reduced to its final shape using various grades of sanding sticks.

 
Once the final shape was achieved, a profile needed to be introduced to match, and transition as smoothly as possible from the molding strip into the curve of the volute.  To do this I needed to create a second scraper profile at the very edge of a razor blade to work on the volute curve effectively (the scraper profile used previously for strip had been centered to give best control on straight strip).  This was performed very slowly as catastrophic failure would be very easy!  While it is true that it took multiple experiments to get this method down, it did work well and the four needed volutes were all first time efforts with no rework, and despite the many imperfections highlighted by the macro lens, the results to the naked eye exceeded my expectations.

In position, the volutes will now allow final shaping of the hull profile.  Onto the next challenges!

Post One hundred and Seventy-two
 
Completion
 So, after fourteen months of fairly consistent work I have to declare Sphinx finished, but of course this does not include the masting and rigging element that would have taken at least another twelve months.

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For the purposes of the shoot, I have added the instantly detachable Boomkins. Strangely they don’t Jarr on my eye as they did a post or two back.

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Thoughts about the Sphinx kit
 I have thoroughly enjoyed building Sphinx and it offers significant kit design improvements over my previous build of the small frigate, Pegasus, back in 2010.
 
It produces a fine model as an oob build and provides options for the more experienced builder to apply tweaks where kit simplifications can be improved.
In the case of Sphinx these have mainly related to the internal Quarter gallery and great cabin areas, which have been addressed by Chris in his latest development of the frigate Indefatigable.
 
There have been concerns expressed that the Sphinx kit has too many pre- made parts such as the outer planking and Wale patterns, but this is no assembly by numbers project, great care is necessary to produce the finish that this kit deserves.
 
The use of some resin components allows for finer detail, and the very fine brass etch decoration is pretty close to ‘painted on’
 
The design of this kit includes a complete lower deck with main fittings, and if fore and aft lower platforms are added there is a view thro’ the hatches from the upper deck directly down to the hold. Not many kits offer this level of detail below the upper deck level.
The provision of scale deck beams for the Quarter deck and Foc’sle was one of the reasons that attracted me to the kit providing the option to make a ‘Navy Board ‘style model.
 
I did have to make my own Lodging knees, but this is also something Chris has addressed in his latest design.
 
 I have to thank Chris for providing the makings to build Sphinx, and for the ongoing support in providing additional and replacement parts. His service is second to none.
 
I am also grateful to Jim Hatch for his pathfinder work in constructing the prototype and providing many helpful photos along the way.
 
I also thank Chuck Passaro of Syren who has assisted me with the decorative panels on Sphinx, and whose wonderful model of Winchelsea has provided much inspiration and ideas adopted on my own build.
 
Finally, I would like to thank all those MSW members who have supported me throughout this build, providing encouragement and advice.
 
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
Ps
I now need to work out how to display Sphinx within the case and decide where to put it.🤔
 

 
 

Almost 5 years to the day....she is finally finished.   Always a bit anti climactic.   Thank you all for following along all these many years.  For those of you building her,  I hope you are having as much fun with it as I did.
 
Well here goes the final pics.  The top picture is of course of the Winnie contemporary model which inspired me as well as the Amazon.   I hope I did them justice.   Everyone should build a Georgian style model of an English frigate at least once in their lifetime.
 


 












 
 

Before I glue the roof into place, it needs to be tested against the gallery once the outer skins are added. 
 

 
 
 
 
WIth those glued into place, the roof is finally trimmed to size and also glued to the model.

 
 
 
On top of that is the pear cap which will slightly overlap the shingles that will later be fitted. The pear parts that make the lower galleries are now shaped and fitted.

 
 
 
 
Time to fit the outer stern panel and quarters. I highly recommend you use CA for this so there's no curling of the parts.

 
 
 
 
These are then shaped and the gallery/stern area given a finishing sanding to even up all edges etc.

 
 
 
And lastly, the engraved upper stern is fitted and then also sanded into the rest of the hull. 


 
 
 
 
More next time...

Another update as at least it's now looking a little different. 
 
Well, like it or not, the cabin areas now have to be decked over and here you see the beams in the fore cabin area, including the timbers for the original position of the skylight. This was likely moved rearwards when razed.
 

 
 
 
And here you see the new skylight position over the main cabin, which sort of does make much more sense as that area can now be subject to some direct down sunlight. 

 
 
 
 
With all beams in place, the 0.8mm laser-engraved ply sub-deck is now installed, notched into the protruding bulkhead ears that you can see.

 
 
 
With the poop deck now installed, it's time to turn attention to the quarter galleries. This always gives a hull some character and definition. Here you see the frames, now painted, being glued to the indents on the rear of the hull sides.

 
 
 
The inner stern panel can now be fitted, as well as the counter. 

 
 
 
As with Sphinx, the quarters are sheathed in two layers of timber with the upper parts creating a recessed frame. Here are the inner skins for the galleries.


 
 
 
And here is the stern up to this point.

 
 
 
Three MDF layers are used to create the roof, except for a pear caping piece that's fitted soon. These will eventually be painted black and covered with laser-cut shingles. The reason for the layers is that it makes it easier to sand to the correct angles as you temporarily sit them on the hull side.

 
 
 
After fettling, the finished roof will look like this.

The cabin walls and internal cabin screen are now painted, and the screens fitted out.
 


 
 
 
I can finally glue into place the cabin walls, screens and partition. Note the eyelets are added to the ports and floor. 

 
 
 
Did I say this came with a cabinet? No? Well, it does, and this is now fitted into place.


 
 
 
The carronades in this area differ from the others as they will retract into hull during the hull painting process. They can be rolled out into position when that job is complete. These are now fitted to the cabins area.




 
 
 
Time for some furniture and maps too. 


 
 
 
Hope you like the work so far. Onwards!!

Just a few random pictures taken of the ship as she sits today. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 





 
 

Nice clean rigging Tom. Good job.

continue.....

Continue with the galley stove construction:










 

Almost a month since my last progress posting.  Where did the time go!

Installing and rigging the topgallant yard was almost the same as the royal yard, but with the addition of the studding sail boom halyards and additional purchase on the lifts and boom halyard.
 
First I needed to seize a number of blocks in place.  There is a single block seized on the upper side of the yard outside each pair of chocks (for a total of two, not four as stated in the instructions), for the lifts.  Then for the studding boom halyards, a single block on the underside just inside each pair chocks, and a single block on the underside about 5/8” out from each side of the center of the yard. Finally for the topgallant halyard, a single block is seized to a sling which wraps around the middle of the yard.  The instructions show the halyard seized to this block, needing a double block above it on the mast, but the plans (which I followed) show the halyard seized to the mast block, resulting in a tackle with two single blocks.  
 
Hooks need to be seized on the end of two long pieces of thread which will be the studding boom halyards. The hooks are attached to the eyebolts previously installed at the inner end of each boom, and the thread then gets led through the lower blocks near each end of the yard, then through the blocks near the center of the yard, and coiled for now.
 
Finally one end of the parrel can be tied to one of the eyebolts sticking out of the back of the yard yoke.

A pair of single blocks for the lifts need to be seized to each side of the mast just above the shroud loops wrapping around the mast, above the topgallant cross trees. A long piece of thread needs to be seized to each such block. The yard halyard is seized to a block, which in turn is supposed to be attached to a sling which secures it to the forward side of the mast, but somehow mine turned out to be just another seizing.  As mentioned above, I used a single block here. The lifts and halyard can be coiled to await attachment of the yard to the mast.

Next was gluing the yard to the mast, using the location pin at the back of the yard and a hole I had previously drilled in the front of the mast. I then secured the loose end of the parrel to the open eyebolt in the yoke.
 
Then came the fun of releasing the coils of rope, one by one, leading the line down through the standing rigging to belaying pins at deck level. . . a relatively easy step which leads to satisfyingly significant progress.  Comments on doing this:
 
The royal yard lifts ran easily from the blocks on either side of the mast, behind the topgallant and topsail crosstrees, through the aft end of the open spaces in the fighting top, behind the futtock shrouds, without interference all the way down to the aft side of the fife rail. Here I made a mistake, belaying the port lift line to the second pin in from the end rather than the third pin in.  As discussed below, I didn’t not correct the error.  
The royal yard halyard ran from its block on the mast, around the starboard side of the mast, aft of both sets of cross trees, aft and outside the fighting top. It then went down to where it was seized to the double block which formed part of the jig tackle, the other end of which was hooked to the outer eyebolt attached to the aft end of the starboard channel.
The topgallant studding sail boom halyards ran from their blocks on the yard, down just outside the forward topsail crosstrees, through the middle of the spaces on either side of the fighting top, ahead of the futtock shrouds, and down to the fore and aft parts of the fife rail.
The topgallant lifts ran from their blocks on either side of the mast, behind the topsail crosstrees, through the aft end of the open spaces in the fighting top and inside the royal lifts, and on down to the aft side of the fife rail where they were belayed to the pins just inside where the royal lifts were belays.  The fact that the lifts on the port side were belayed one pin farther out than the lifts on the starboard side caused no problems, and I decided this was an error not worth correcting.
The topgallant yard halyard ran parallel to the royal yard halyard down to its jig tackle.  In hooking the tackle to its eyebolt in the starboard channel, the main part of this tackle ran between the main part of the royal tackle and the tail end of the royal tackle belayed inside the bulwark.

On to the topsail yard.  More of the same . . . only bigger.

The bowsprit rigging is completed as are all the lower mast stays. I can now tighten and tie off the deadeye lanyards, then start the ratlines.
 

Thank you Glenn. They took a bit of time but were fun to make and rig.
 
I am working on the rigging of the bowsprit shrouds and stays and the lower mast shrouds. I had to drill out the holes in the stem for the bowsprit stays because of the serving on the lines. I was a bit apprehensive about it but I just drilled half way from both sides and it worked out fine. I also had to drill out two eyebolts so the served line would fit through them for the bowsprit shrouds. I am working on a lot of lines at the same time as it takes time for the lacquer to dry on the fixed seizings.