fnkershner

There's hope for the future of the hobby John if you are surrounded by a mob of interested kids. I am prepared to bet that your exquisite little cutter will stick in the minds of at least one or two, and some way down the road, they will appear on MSW influenced by the beauty of what they saw in 2013.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Well another week has gone by. As some of you may know I started another discussion related to planking in the Planking forum. Previously all the planking I have done was either covered by paint or putty. This is the first time I have done the 2nd layer. I do want to learn how to spile. But in this case I had already milled the wood for this layer before I understood the need. So I am going to opt for the planking method described for using the material that comes with the kit. So I have decided to add 1 strake at the Bulwarks and 1 at the Keel to provide a straight line to work from. From there I will taper and fit as needed. I also noticed that others were posting more details. So I will add some of the intermediate pictures that I have not posted before from now on.
 
So for today, In the attached picture you will see that I have installed the first 4 strakes of planking. I wanted to make sure the first strake below the bulwarks was complete so that I had something for the wales to attach to. I soaked the planks and used spot welding with CA to get these planks to hold. I will let them and the PVA glue dry and then continue. Hopefully I will get 4 more strakes tonight.

Gil! Sawdust burner? Those are called Wigwam Burners! I didn't think anyone would remember then. Growing up in the Pacific Northwest all lumber and plywood mills had one. They would be 20 to 30 ft. tall and shaped like a Teepee with a dome shaped metal screen over the top. They were used to burn most of the scrapes left over from the mill. At night you could drive around and find the metal glowing from the heat of the fire. We would drive out to the nearest mill just to see the sparks that lit up the sky.
 
My first job in the computer field was at a lumber mill. I was inside with the air conditioning while guys my age were outside in the sawdust, noise, and dangerous surroundings. It is probably what made me finish College. 

Bob,
Either choice appears to work well. If you are rolling your edge seams, I would use the lighter cloth since the seams will be triple thickness. One of the allowances for scale that we live with I guess. Floyd mentions 1/8 inch single fold, iron on, seam tape but I have yet to find any. Would be heaven if you can. Looking at the Bluenose photos the sails are a bit translucent when backlit by the sun (at lleast the seams stand out). Either way, you won't go wrong.

Gil - What can I say that hasn't been said? I think by now you would make a good Mid on the real ship. I also hope someday in the future we in PSSM get to help you christen her. Since she can not come to us we will gladly come to her.

Augie - Looks like you are not far behind. Almost Captain yourself. And nearly 1000 posts in this thread! Wow!.

Gil,
 
There are two things that I am now sure of; my wish of going to the moon won't happen (though I did drive large flying machines for many years), and I will never be the astonishing master that you are with this art form. Your pics, and updates leave me speechless in an absolutely wonderful way. Such a delight to see your love of this wonderful hobby. Your craft level is PHD, if that is the appropriate simili. Your knowledge certainly is. 
 
with a huge amount of respect,
 
Michael D

Keith, I responded to your posting, posted it and it dissapeared into the ether.  I'll try again.  Imagine if one was a farmer, Shanghaid by a press gang, and then sent up the rigging. Scary stuff.
I'm certainly not the expert, and Harvey's response is probably more informative.  Pine tar from an area in Sweden (Stockholm tar) was used between and over layers when major lines, eg. stays and leading shrouds, were wormed, parcelled and served, producing a dark colored line, while Manilla hemp was bleached by sun and salt. Soft lay hemp was very flexible and easy to splice or run through blocks while hard lay hemp was quite stiff.  I've never used Pine tar, but did use Tung oil and Linseed oil on our old sailboat in the 50's.  What can I tell you, a teacher of chemistry, about Cu and Fe.  I think about the time the Constitution was built (1797), something over 300,000 copper nails were used for the copper sheathing.
 
Kevin, I posted on your suggested site. Great idea. It took 3 photos - the model was too large.
 
Len, You're very kind.  I consider it a privilege just to be on this great web site. Your Avatar makes you look about 30.  You must have discovered Ponce de Leon's Fountain of Youth.
 
Blue Ensign and Grant, Many thanks.  Rigging is probably not that exciting unless you're in the midst of doing it yourself.
 
And visualizing a mummified Andy or Sjors in the rigging is sobering indeed.
 
Cheers, (I think)  Gil

As one approaches the smaller lines such as bunt lines and leach lines, things get congested and a bit confusing, requiring muliple sources to put things in perspective.  Even smaller lines such as reef lines and stuns'l rigging will likely be omitted to avoid clutter, however that decision can be made later.
Included in this post are: the Foremast lower yard bunt lines and leach lines, Mainmast lower yard bunt lines and leach lines, Main topmast yard bunt lines, Spritsail yard lifts and Spritsail yard braces.  Left to the next post are: the Spritsail bunt lines, Spritsail top sail yard braces, Spritsail yard lifts, Spritsail top sail yard lifts, Spritsail yard sheets and clew lines, Spritsail top sail Yard sheets and clew lines, Netting at the bees and Knotted rope walk. So many lines, so little time.
 
The port Foremast yard bunt lines and leach line can be seen.  While making the mast top, I had a senior moment and placed two single blocks where there should have been double blocks (for the bunt lines).  I can attest that it's more frustrating placing bocks under the mast top at this stage than when one could pick up the mast and turn it over. (Mistake number one).  The bunt lines pass behind the stuns'l boom, through two blocks under the top and terminate at the forecastle breast beam supports.
The mainmast yard buntlines are similar to the foremast yard buntlines but terminate at the main top bowline bitts (aft of the foremast).
The leach lines leave the blocks at the top, pass through the shrouds and catharpins to the forebrace bitts (aft of the mainmast).
The Main topmast yard bunt line passes through the yard block to a block attached to the lift block. The plans specified that the bunt line blocks were to be attached to the top of the lift blocks.  Having missed that, I attached them to the strop at the base of the lift block. However, I suspect they might have been rigged this way at some time during her career. (mistake #2). 
The Spritsail yard lift originates at the jib boom cap, passes through the lift block on the yard, returns to the block at the cap and terminates at the timberheads at the beakhead.
Finally, the braces for the spritsail yard are seen in the first two photos.The spritsail yard braces originate at the forestay collar. The brace was seized to the collar as a typical splice, and then the splice itself seized to the forestay collar. The brace then passed through the brace block from the yard, through two blocks under the top and terminates at the forecastle breast beam supports.
Ah, I see the eyes glazing over. Enough rigging for one post.  Cheers, Gil

Jim may get tired of my saying this but he deserves the credit. I have a bit of a unique story regarding his service. I currently own the Sander and the Table saw. and like everyone else I can say I haven't owned a finer power tool.
 
One Christmas recently a family member tried to give me a very thoughtful present. A feather board for my Table saw. Unfortunately they bought the feather boards for the Micromark saw and Jim does not offer feather boards. When I explained the situation to him he told me to ship all the pieces to him. He took the Micromark pieces and adapted them to his saw. I now have the only custom made feather boards for a Jim saw made by Jim!

Eric, It is great to see your log. I agree those binder clips are the best tool and even better for the price. I don't know what you do for work but I picked up about 3 dozen of them in my companie's office supplies. If you look around you will find a thread I posted on how to modify them to use for planking clamps. You mght have found that particular modification useful for your sills.
 
Another suggestion that I have found quite useful. I went to my local Home Depot and bought a piece of aluminum angle iron. I used my hack saw to cut it into 4 inch lengths. I then used the resulting pieces as to clamp with my bulkheads. I now use them over and over on all my models. The glue does not stick and it the holds the bulkheads square. In about 6 months I will get back to my Syren and post that log.
 
Keep up the great work I will be following you!
 
By the way normally I would agree with you this is a challenging project for a first model. But with the great design and wonderful practicum from Chuck and all the help here. I don't think it will be any issue at all.

Per - As I said in the State of WA (where we both live) you must get a permit to build larger than 200 sq. ft. This is why I have 12 X 16 interior space but I have 16 by 18 total building size. As 42rocker mentions I added a 6 foot covered porch. I can sit on the porch and do any sanding and in the past I have setup a table on the porch for spray painting. But I have found that the permit process isn't quite as bad as I thought. So go for it! Submit your design to the county. Besides for all my effort to be legal and avoid permitting I found that when I installed power I needed a permit anyway. Not to mention the plumbing.
 
The siding on my shop is better quality than the house. It is guaranteed for 50 yrs and the roof for 30.

If you check out the home page, head over to the "articles and downloads" section. Under "tools and materials" is the list.
 
Andy

Popeye, I think it's called Nautical Trivial Pursuit.
Dave, thanks for the insight.  A couple weeks ago, I'd never heard of a shroud truck.
Harv and Floyd,  hearing you guys reminisce about sailing adventures brings to mind the smell of salt air and visions of the open sea. I think it's about time to paint, varnish and head up the coast.
 
Cheers, Gil

Sarah - Actually you have access to several of the books mentioned. As a dues paying member of PSSM you have the use of our Library. You will find many of the books mentioned in this thread there. Now if we could just get other members to return the books they have borrowed.

One of my finest actual sailing experiences was sweating the jib on the Californian. I had my feet firmly planted on the bulwarks and heaving with all my might on the Staysail Jib sheet as she sailed under the gate. It was over 20 years ago and i still remember that day.
 
More recently I had a chance for a sail on the Amastad. The crew thought I was weird. I didn't want to sit aft like the other tourists and hear the story of the history. I wanted to Sail! And I was willing to pay for the chance to spend 1 day as a member of the crew.

I know some New Englanders have little affection for "Dude Schooners", but you can learn a lot by spending a week on one. We spent a week on the Lewis R French out of Rockland about 20 years ago, and it was really enlightening to learn the workings of an old schooner. And I still want to go back!
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

.  No, you're not doing anything wrong.  A lot of folks recommend wearing gloves.  That just helps me break the dowels.  There was a reason for me not to become a surgeon !!!!

One of my finest actual sailing experiences was sweating the jib on the Californian. I had my feet firmly planted on the bulwarks and heaving with all my might on the Staysail Jib sheet as she sailed under the gate. It was over 20 years ago and i still remember that day.
 
More recently I had a chance for a sail on the Amastad. The crew thought I was weird. I didn't want to sit aft like the other tourists and hear the story of the history. I wanted to Sail! And I was willing to pay for the chance to spend 1 day as a member of the crew.

Brion Toss has an excellent book on rigging for actual sail vessels and devotes several pages to ratlines and how to install them. He claims a spacing of 16" is "standard". His book is called The Complete Riggers Apprentice and covers modern and traditional rigging. I checked Darcy Lever but he doesn't appear to give a spacing. William Brady says "15" is a good distance between the ratlines" on page 70 of The Kedge-Anchor(1847). Nares Seamanship (1862)  asks "haw far are the ratlines apart? Fifteen or Sixteen inches" on page 55. Harold Underhill, in Masting and Rigging of the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier(1946) gives "About 15" apart" on page 83. Finally Lees, in Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War (1979) says ratlines "were spaced 13" to 15" apart. Its funny. Before I went back and checked my references I would have said it was 16" to 18". Its also funny that none of the experts I sited were exactly specific, except Brion Toss who's book is more about present day real world rigging and is certainly not intended for the model builder. Its still a great well written book with something of interest for anyone who is at all nautical.

Wow! I am so glad you reposted this. I will remember what you did with these quarter galleries when I get there and hope to do as well.
 

As far as Power tools go I use the following in descending order of importance to me:
 
- Rotary or Dremel - I prefer the battery operated. I use this almost every day. Except when I am rigging.
- Sander - I have a Jim Byrnes Sander and I use it almost as often as I use the dremel.
- Table Saw - I have the Jim Saw and I love it. Lately I have started using it even more to create my own planks.
- Table Top Drill press - I use this for all kinds of uses including Sanding drums and X Y Table for precision drilling.
- Skill saw - Very handy when cutting small pieces or irregular shapes.

Reluctantly I have to Agree with Crackers. I of course am one of those that replace skill with Power. I have just about every tool you can imagine and I have tirid and given some away.

Reluctantly I have to Agree with Crackers. I of course am one of those that replace skill with Power. I have just about every tool you can imagine and I have tirid and given some away.

OK, time for an update. 
 
The running rigging, up through the addition of the yards, has been completed  .  Basically we're talking stays and halliards.  I apologize for the photos as it's seemingly impossible to get the right background to show what's going on.  The rope coils on the finished lines are in place.
 

 

 

 
 
Will now be moving on to the YARDwork, which I hope will go as well as mast construction.  I may need to take a break to do some real yardwork like planting tomatoes simultaneously.  This will at least beat shoveling snow in between stropping blocks.
 
This next phase will take a while so stay the course 'til I return!