Blue Ensign

All those metal fittings look so ‘last century’ to my eye, and stub guns, takes me back to Norske Love of the 1980’s. Times have moved on…….. B.E.

When I came back to the build I re-read Chuck's log and many others, to refresh my memory. I consider myself lucky that I have all these excellent builds, including yours Bob, to refer to. I picked up the tip of using the thinner stuff from Chuck's log, but it's not mentioned in the download instructions. I was concerned about using too much pressure on those open frames. B.E.

Post 22 Fitting the boards Initial fitting of the 1/16th broad plank reveals it will be a tricky part to fit. It is clear that a gentle approach will be required in getting the boards to conform to the frames as they are far more vulnerable without the support of outer planking. Chuck had suggested that the broad planks could be cut from 1/32nd sheet and glued one on top of the other in the same manner as the outer planks. These would better conform around the inner framework, and having played around with the 1/16th board I decided that the 1/32nd option was both easier and safer. Not out of the woods yet; Shaping by degrees was needed on the inner side of the broad planks to cleanly meet the central one. Additionally, I had problems with Frame ‘F’ - third from the bow, which needed additional fairing to allow the board to sit down properly. This frame was also troublesome with the central plank. 0040 0042 These Amati planking clamps are ideal for securing the boarding both for heat treatment to conform the board, and for eventually gluing. This would not be an option with a fully planked hull. It is the forward section of the boards that require some twist to conform to the forward bow frames but using 1/32nd board there is no problem. 0049 The base layers in place. 0045 Here the port side second layer strip in position for the application of the heat treatment. Spacers are used to maintain the rabbet line on the central plank. Before finally gluing into place the nail points were marked on the planking and pre drilled. I used a 0.4mm drill. Care is required to ensure that the nail lines across the board are even and square to the frames. With the board in place I drew fine pencil marks in line with the frames, and off the model I marked the nail positions and drilled. The board then needed cleaning with isopropanol to remove the traces of the pencil marks. 0054 Using 10lb fishing line the ‘nails’ are inserted, secured with pva. Dull work, but I can’t complain given that I have been spared the bulk of this task. 0055 0059 0057 0056 Onto the outer boards. B.E. 03/06/2024

Nice progress Christian. On the subject of the Qtr deck Capstan, it actually sat on a platform called the step. This rose around 1.5mm (at scale) above the Qtr deck. The step was angled slightly to bring the capstan vertical to the spindle running between the two capstans. The expediency of bevelling the base of the capstan achieves the same effect, but does it look ok from a side on view? Regards, B.E.

Round-up to the head ledges and gratings👍 B.E.

As Alan has said above there is a design on the plans. Using a good quality paper, take a few photo copies in case you mess one up, trim to fit, spray with Artist fixative, job done. B.E.

Post 21 Painting the rails There were some very fine imperfections between the capping rail and inboard sheer planking still apparent after two coats of thinned paint. 4849 I applied some fine surface filler atop the rails. Several more thinned paint coats were applied with sanding in-between initially using 400, then 1000 grit. At this point in Part three of the guide it is suggested that the decorative frieze and rail are fitted but I thought I would attend to the floorboards and platforms first. I will return to add final paint coats once the boarding is installed. Floorboarding The floorboards comprise the central board with a broad plank adjacent and a narrower plank outside. 2304a The two broad planks either side of the central plank are easy to identify on 1/16th cedar sheet. 2303a The centre plank along with the two narrower outer planks are found on sheet R. These are made up from two 1/32nd strips glued together. The top layers are slightly narrower to form a rabbet, one each side on the central plank, and one on the outer edges of the outer planks. 2307 The central plank with the two broad planks. 2305a These should meet the centre plank at all points. There is a gap at the fore end which I don’t think will accept edge bending, so the inner edges look to need shaping to allow the fore end to meet the central plank. The broad planks will also require some lateral bending to sit down on the frames. 2308a The two outer planks abut the broad planks with the rabbet on the outer edge. The central plank is fitted first which is necessary to provide a solid edge to work the broad plank fit. Trial fitting revealed a potential problem. With an open framed version the fit of the central board is perhaps slightly more critical than the fully planked version. 4855a The fit of the boards on the frames will be seen from below and as can be seen the central plank does not sit fully down on the third from bow frame due to the more acute angle of the frame. Having discussed with Chuck a small wedge was added to fill the gap. 4853 One of the advantages of open frames is that there is convenient access to clamp this part in place. B.E 29/05/2024

There was a French 1st rate Le Fulminant built at Rochefort Dockyard 1691. B.E.

Thank you Chuck, it was the elegant sheer that attracted me to the model. Overall it is a thing of beauty. Post 20 In continuation. 4753 The re-made bow Breasthook/knee has been glued into place, I think I’ve got a close fit. 4754 I have continued to clean up the woodwork prior to applying a coat of w-o-p. With w-o-p applied to the frames and inner boarding it is time to consider paint. As with the Queen Anne Barge I will be using Vallejo acrylics. 3434(1) For that build I used Flat Red for the Barge paintwork. The uniforms for the Royal Company of Watermen were of a brighter hue. 4837 Before I committed to the paint shade I compared the likely Vallejo options. I think Flat Red (top option) still has the edge so I’ll stick with that. 4848 A first coat of thinned paint is applied, the first of several, and a first opportunity for the paint to reveal where areas need attention. 4842 4846 On with the show. B.E. 27/05/2024

Looking impressive Kevin, and I'm sure Apollo has been of great comfort to soften the loss of your Dobbie. B.E.

Very nicely done Dan, 👍 B.E.

Post 4 The launch is completed. The only modification to the provided kit is a replacement for the rudder. I have also added the following:- Lifting rings to the keelson. A cap square for the mast A brass etch grapnel from the Indy kit. A turning bar to the windlass. I have also utilised the boat chocks from the Indy kit to support the hull. This has been an enjoyable little project and I am pleased with the result. 2284a 2287a 2290a 2292a 2296a 4828 Below is a comparison with the wooden 24’ Launch I made for Sphinx. 2283a 2273a 2279a Both versions in my opinion look good and I think they represent the best available options at this scale. The Resin/wood combo is a good match and almost fools the eye into thinking the whole is a wooden construction. For those who may prefer to avoid the time and frustrations that can arise building the wooden versions, they are an excellent choice. The wood versions have a slight edge for build match with the Main ship medium, and perhaps give a greater satisfaction in successfully completing these tricky little kits. I don’t think I would mix resin and wood boats on the same build, but I am happy to consider either to enhance the ship kits. You pays your money and takes your choice. B.E. 26/05/2024

Nicely done Kevin👍 B.E.

Post 3 Internal fittings All the wooden internal fittings are laser cut on 0.8mm Pear sheet. 4788 The thwarts fit perfectly in their allotted positions, and at a correct rowing height. 4797 4799 Always good when the feet of a scale figure are a perfect fit for thwart and footwaling. The stern benches are notched to fit over the frames, and again are a perfect fit. 4796 One feature that caught my eye was to see that the benches fitted over the aftermost thwarts. The drawing would support that view, at least on this design of Launch. The Rudder This is fairly fragile at 0.8mm, and the head of the rudder split a little in the area of the tiller insert. The kit set-up has the addition of side cheeks, for want of a better word, either side of the head, between which the tiller is inserted. I don’t recall ever seeing such an arrangement on boat rudders. I wonder if it is supposed to represent a sort of tiller cowl that slots over the rudder head? 4804 I don’t know if such an arrangement ever existed in the 18thc, but either way I thought it looked a little odd, and rather ugly, so I re-made a new rudder using 1mm Pear. (left hand version) Oars are supplied in 0.8mm Pear and I note that Chris has designed in the broader elements of the loom. The blades are also finer than on other editions.👍 4807 I think the oars more than fulfil their purpose at this scale. The next post will see the completion of this long weekend project. B.E. 25/05/2024

Progress on the hull. Post 2 The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom. 4751 This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise. Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash. 4762 With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed. I use Vallejo surface primer. In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes. The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary. I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats. Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted. 4766 It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull. 4763 The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood. This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion. This was applied over the base and dry brushed. With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved. 4769 4772 The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory. 4779 4784 Onto the internal fittings. B.E. 23/05/2024

Snipping tool Gregory, that’s something I use to trim the ends of rigging line, is there any other sort.

Ah, I see, screen shots are beyond my old Windows 11 desk top tech, should have used the iPad.

Thanks Chris, I did see that but I couldn't get it to enlarge. B.E.

Building the new Vanguard Resin 26’ Launch. Partly out of curiosity I decided to get one of Chris’s new hot off the press resin launches. It will provide an interesting exercise in woodifying the resin hull and allow me to compare with the wooden kit versions. It may also help to lay the ghost of my failure with the Indy kit version, and if nothing else I will avoid the frustration of breakages. A look in the package 4748 This is what you get. 4743 Internally the Keelson is represented together with mast and davit steps. The solid floor footwaling is represented by broader planking sections for which there is historical evidence. My current Medway Longboat also has much broader floor planking. 4741 The moulding is very nicely done and looks to need very little clean -up beyond washing the resin. 4742 I note that there is no indication of external planking strakes, possibly thought unnecessary because the hull must be painted and they would be pretty fine and not show thro’ the paint. The oar arrangement is for double banking, which is appropriate given the Admiralty order of 1783 regarding Launches. 4745 The significant feature of a Launch, the windlass, is also supplied in resin. I am pleased that this feature has been included, these are tricky to make at 1:64 scale, I know, I made one to go with the Launch for Sphinx. 4746 The remaining Resin fitting is the davit. I don’t think there are any instructions with these kits but then there is not much in the way of construction required to complete the model. All the hard work has been done, internal framing and the all-important thwart supports are moulded in. The thwarts and stern sheets are of 0.8mm Pearwood and look to simply slot into place with minimal effort. The key factor in producing a fine model is all in the painting with this medium, we’ll see how I get on.🤔 Both the Resin and the alternative wooden kit versions are the same price at £29.00. The difference is that with the wooden version brass etch grapnels and boathooks are included, along with a good serving of tricky building time, but it doesn’t have the windlass. I wonder if the Resin fitting would be appropriate to supply with the Pearwood Launch version as an optional extra? On with the assembly. B.E. 21/05/2024

Post 19 Cap rails and frames cont’d Over the past week I have continued to work on the frames and Capping rails, slowly easing myself back into the build. The starboard side is pared down using the same procedure as before. 4692 For sanding I used 320 grit paper. With the Cap rails down to around 5/32” width the inboard sheer strakes can be fitted. These comprise two laser cut planks (1/32” x 5/32”) for each side, a bow section and longer aft section. The sections are pre spiled to take account of the bow round and sheer. Having lost familiarity with the kit contents it took me a while to locate these which are on sheet ‘R’ of the planking sheets. 4725 The bow sections were wetted down and pre-formed around the bow before fitting. 4727 4729 4730 The inboard strakes have now been fitted, one or two spots of char to attend to but this section is nearing completion. There is a bow knee to be fitted and the kit supplies laser cut pieces from cedar. The kit part was not a good fit on my build requiring too much material removal and/or filler to retain the elegant shape. 4734 I remade the part from Boxwood sheet having taken a template, but even so this will still require some fettlin’ to get the hoped-for razor line fit to the capping rail at the bow. B.E. 21/05/2024

Post One Hundred and Seventy-six Casing the model. Today 'Indy' was finally encased and moved to her display position. 4713 Quite a fraught business lifting the heavy glass cover over the base, but at least there are no tall masts to negotiate and yards to snag. 4717 The cover was set with the model/base on the floor, and the combination case lifted in two stages onto the chest of drawers. 4715 I had been waiting for the arrival of the ‘Indy’ Admiralty plan which I have had framed. This was also a tricky exercise to hang being 53” in width, supported by three hooks. 4708 This is the last available space I have for a large model, but I think I can still accommodate a few smaller ones. 4723 The final act is to compile the build photo record book that I do for all my builds, this is now ready to go to the printers. I can now finally declare the project completed, and I again thank those who have shown an interest. Regards, B.E. 18/05/2024

Well done Walter, she looks spot on. 👏 B.E.

You don't have to be 'good enough' to be a member of NRG Kevin, just pay the membership fee, I'm a member - case in point.🫤 B.E.

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉 On balance, perhaps I should just get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks. Post 18 Cap rails and frames The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template. 4684 The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail. For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone. 4685 The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber. As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved. 4690 The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow. The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed. 4691 So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem. B.E. 15/05/2024

Post 17 The Journey resumes. My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable. Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit. 4646 4648 With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s log and other excellent group builds is where I start. B.E. 13/05/2024