Blue Ensign

Post Seventy-four Stanchions on my mind I wasn’t really satisfied with my pillar conversion, so I had a play around with metal. 1969 Using square brass tubing (2.3mm) with the original wooden pillar tab inserted, I formed the foot of the stanchion. 1.5mm square section brass was used for the stanchion, ca’d into the top of the foot. 1971 1974 Chemically blackened, they provide a stronger contrast to the wooden support pillars. 1975 I think they look more representative of ‘iron’ stanchions. I will finish the top end brackets once I have the determined the correct height, as I fit the deck beams. The kit ladderway stanchions (or newels)are represented by brass etched posts with an eye, thro’ which line is threaded. On my builds from Pegasus onwards I have passed over kit stanchions in favour of something more stylish. For the stanchions I am using the same system I adopted for Pegasus, which was based on the detail in the fffm Vol 11. 6989(2) The makings involve having donor stanchions, the ones I use are 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the rings 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used, and 0.5mm ø brass rod for the rails. 1253 A spot of silver soldering is required to bring it all together. Silver solder paste in two melt points 690º and 671º are required. 7044 Full details of the procedure can be found in my Pegasus log (page 4 – post 91) but I used the same process on my Sphinx build (above) 1983 Main ladderway. 1986 Aft Ladderway. 1987 Main Hatch ladderway. Forward to the Qtr deck beams. B.E. 03/09/2023

Post Seventy-three Back to the decks. Pre-occupied with the deck beams I nearly forgot about the gundeck ironwork. The kit provides etched eyebolts for the Training (relieving) tackle connection. These should strictly be ringbolts and I used 2mm rings and Amati fine eyebolts to make up the required number running along the deck binding strakes. 1950 For the first three sets aft of the Riding Bitts I have used 3mm rings to represent the stopper bolts. Apart from any other consideration ring bolts look nicer when looking down on the deck of a model. There is then the shaped deck support pillars and in particular those within the area of the Capstan. 1956 There are four within the radius of the Capstan bars which even with a modest scale 9’ length would impede movement. I think these would more likely be hinged iron supports that could be lifted out of the way when the capstan was in use. 1963 I have modified the pillars to represent such items, and which from the available viewing point would probably pass muster, at least to a blind man on a galloping horse. 1958 1967 I still may re-visit the iron stanchions and try a 1mm ø brass tube version. B.E. 31/08/2023

Happy Birthday Kevin, you mean you have something better to do than ship modelling.😉 B.E.

Looking good Kevin, add weights to those pendants and coat them with pva, it will help them hang straight, and impart a more realistic 'heaviness' to them. B.E.

Thanks Glenn, I'd better look in on your Winnie and see how it should be done, before I go much further.😊 B.E.

It is Nipper, in my opinion they are the trickiest sections that can make or break the look of a model. Always a relief when those two tasks have been completed, hopefully with satisfaction. Post Seventy-two Quarter deck beams This section starts with yet another not very exciting task, that of prepping the Qtr deck beams. These are nicely proportioned Pearwood beams with the necessary camber and containing the slots for the carlings. These need careful cleaning up as they are heavily charred on the top and bottom surfaces. The danger is that with the camber it would be all too easy to put too much pressure on a beam resulting in breakage. 1936 Soft hands are required for this job, and I use a cambered former to support the beam during cleaning of the top surface. 1935 I begin by scraping, using a scalpel blade to remove the heavy char, it would soon clog a sandpaper. 1938 Fitting the beams is a slow business with great care needed to avoid breaking the tabs off the beam ends. 1939 The aftermost deck beam is fitted first. A tricky exercise involving cutting away sections of the mdf frames both sides and sanding the ends of the beam. I found that the recesses at either end of the beam needed a lot of fettlin’ in order to sit right down on the beam housing. Note: Were I starting this section again I would have trial fitted the beams before I set the gun carriages in place. I found that I had to remove sections of all the mdf frames to get placement of the beams without the risk of stress both to the beams and myself. My veneer saw proved useful for this task. The forward beam at the break of the Qtr Deck has a classic curved design typical of the Ardent class of ships. 1941 Chris has designed a former over which to shape the laminated beam to give it the proper camber. I will retain this little jig, it has potential for use on other projects. 1943 1945 The forward beam sits perfectly over the Main bitt standards. 1946 The final check is to confirm the beams are seated properly and present a level surface across all points. Two days work on this task, I can now remove the beams for a final cleaning up and painting. B.E. 30/08/2023

Post Seventy-one I’m now at the six-month stage of this build, altho’ I’m a fair way behind those of my fellow Indy builders who started around the same time. A photo set to mark this milestone point. 1912 1915 1918 1916 1917 1919 1920 1923 The gun barrels are only temporarily in place. 1931 1932 The heavy construction element has now been completed. There should be a lot less clutter and dust around from this point on. I am now getting close to the stage of a build that I enjoy best. B.E. 29/08/2023

Post Seventy Bits and pieces Lots of bits and pieces to add at this stage, guard stanchions around the hatches, shot to the garlands, and the gun carriages to secure along the hull. 1891 1910 I also decided to repaint and weather the guns, I could still detect those longitudinal striations given certain light and angles. 1902 What fun it is to fit the shot into the garlands. Lively little beggars, pinging around the deck, bouncing down the ladderways never to be seen again, but most certainly heard. 1901 I found using these broad nose plastic tweezers gave me the best success. The stanchions As with other ‘ironwork’ I prefer to chemically blacken. 1895 I try to ensure that any tabs from the fret are completely removed from the stanchions before this process. This macro reveals three examples requiring more attention. Gun carriages. I secured these using 1mm brass wire thro’ the bed and into the deck. 1892 An Archimedean drill is perfect for this job. 1894 At this point the carriages are all secured. I used ca on either end of the wire. 1906 I think a general tidy-up is called for before I move on. B.E. 27/08/2023

Post Sixty-nine Capstans I decided to add ‘iron’ reinforcing rings to the capstan trundle heads. For this I used my dividers to cut rings from thin black card. I sprayed the card with matt varnish before cutting to reduce the risk of rough edges. 1887 The rings were marked with the iron fastenings; fitting these corrected my initial error, as I was able to re-position the capstan bar retaining pin holes. Manger Boards. There are rules about Manger Boards concerning their heigh and shape. They fit against the bulwark at the outboard end, and against the Bowsprit step legs, inboard. They are higher outboard and cant down inboard. For practical purposes I have scaled the height to fit over the spirketting. 1868 1879 The Manger boards are fairly simple to make, cut from some scrap 1mm Boxwood. 1878 1875 1883 They will be clearly visible thro’ the Foc’sle deck beams, so worth adding on a ‘skeletal’ version such as mine. 1876 Picking thro’ my scrap box I came across this little fellow, a six pounder carriage from the cutter Alert. Hard to believe these two are the same scale. Movin’ on. B.E. 26/08/2023

A beautiful build David, Diana was the one model I regret not building, and looking at yours that regret is magnified. I enjoyed re-reading your log a short while ago, and a wonderful job you have made of her. Well done.👏 B.E.

Thank you Nipper, I do enjoy taking the photos and writing up the log, a diversion from the more repetitive tasks of a build. Being long retired I can devote as much or little as I fancy, and with our poor summer this year, I have been grateful for the interest. Cheers, B.E.

Post Sixty-seven The Stove. The Brodie stove is a nicely detailed resin model complete with chimney, condenser, and drip tray. Additional etch is provided for detailing such as the spit chains, lifting rings, I have constructed stoves using a wood core and etch panels, (Sphinx), all wood versions (Syren) and as with the beautiful Syren version this is all about painting and weathering to get a realistic look. 9150 The 'Syren' Stove at 1:48 scale, with the 'Vanguard' Cook, a perfect combination. I enjoy doing this sort of thing, and it makes a pleasant change from the repetitive elements of the build. I am using Vallejo Black/grey for the base coat followed by weathering powders. 1852 The etch is chemically blackened before fitting. When it came to the rods for the spit I couldn’t quite relate to the given sizes 0.8mm and 0.4mm, all I could find in the kit box was 1mm and 0.7mm. I found 0.6mm suited best for the upper chain rod, and I used 0.7mm for the two lower rods. 1854 Assembly of the chain mechanism is a delicate business that tested my eyesight to the limit, but the result is excellent particularly at 1:64 scale, kudos to Chris for the design.👏 1858 I didn’t want to over-weather the look. A light touch using Black, dark brown, and a touch of slate grey to represent ash marks, I thought sufficient. 1859 The sharp eyed may notice something missing from the condenser jacket. Wearing the wrong specs I mistook the water inlet and overflow pipes for sprue and cut them off.😒 I wonder if the condenser should even be shown as ‘iron’. I note that on the Victory Brodie, the condenser is shown as made of copper, which sort of makes sense given the purpose. I may re-visit this. 1862 One other thing that caught my eye were the taps for the boiler drain. Something very Victorian about the cast valve taps (Parts BS8), so I omitted them. 1143 1866 I did think about adding a few whistles and bells to the stove such as rails and swinging arm to the range grate, but decided it was not worth the effort given the scale and ultimate view. Onwards,… B.E. 24/08/2023

Post Sixty-six Deck fittings cont’d Pumps. The Elm tree pumps are made up using octagonal shaped sections and laminated brass etch for the iron work. 1831 This little assembly project is surprisingly time consuming. The pump sections are tricky little beggars to char clean whilst maintaining a sharp octagonal profile. The etch laminations were secured with ca which mars the surface for blackening. It took repeated scraping of the etch to remove ca overspill to get a uniform cover. 1844 1150 One thing missing from the pumps is the discharge pipes which are easily added. I used short lengths of brass tubing around 1.5mm ø Capstan(s) I made up both Lower and Upper Capstans, and they are a delight to assemble with precise and clean fitting. 1839 One thing I would have liked in the kit is an etch or laser board ring to represent the iron reinforcing ring around the trundle head top. 3534(2) This shot of the Syren Capstan at 1:48 scale shows what I mean. 1840 I haven’t checked but I hope the Upper capstan follows thro’ on the Qtr deck and aligns with the barrel. 🤞 I made a small error in assembling the Capstan, the knowledgeable will spot it, the not so, perhaps not. The Capstans will be fettled and painted later. The final and most complex item is the Brodie Stove which is up next. B.E. 23/08/2023

Nice Job Kevin, but the sight of that flying jib boom makes me very nervous, you've just doubled your workspace requirement.🫤 Can you draw it inboard until absolutely required? Gotta love spaniel pups, which one is yours? B.E.

Maintaining copper is a tricky business during the constant handling during the remainder of the construction. I suppose that unless the copper is damaged, it could be re-treated later. I seem to recall that on my Pegasus build I used cling film to cover the lower hull taped to the wale with varying success. I wonder, could you construct a cut out polystyrene cradle to rest the hull in that would allow you to to turn the hull about without contact. The build board I made to hold my Indy keeps her secure for most activity, and I don't need to handle the hull. The downside is that it is a bit of a beast to move about and there will be times when I need to transfer her to the keel clamps to get specific angles for better access. B.E.

Getting enjoyment from the build is the main thing Kevin, without that a build is unlikely to be finished. I like the look of your Indy, and it will be interesting to see a fully masted and rigged version. I'm sorry you won't see that on my version, which will have stump masts only, if any masts at all. ps. You haven't forgotten to fit the lower finishings of the Qtr galleries have you? Regards, B.E.

Post Sixty- five Bulwark and Centre line fittings. The bulwark fittings are attended to next; repetitive, and not the most exciting aspect of a build. 1798 Fifty-two ring bolts to make-up and blacken. 1804 Boring as the process is, I think ring bolts look so much better than simple eyebolts and are the proper connection for the breeching ropes. Cleaning out the bulwark receiving holes is an awkward exercise using a 0.8mm drill and pin vise. Because of the close proximity to the deck I am careful not to transfer any blackening from the iron work to the deck during fitting. 1806 A set of cleats are fitted along the bulwark to take various lines, the larger ones for the tack/ sheets. A set of additional holes are required to be drilled thro’ from inboard to outboard. This represents what would be the fixed blocks, to take the sheet and tack lines. 1811 The Riding Bitts went together beautifully, the Main bitts less so. 1816 As can be seen here my modification allows for a view down thro’ three deck levels, to the Orlop, giving the impression that all deck are fitted out. The slots of the cross pieces to the Main Bitts were a loose fit over the uprights leaving a gap of around 0.7mm. Not too much of a problem if the item is to be painted, but I intend to leave the cross pieces unpainted. 1807 I used small pieces of Pearwood strip to resolve the issue. 1808 The posts will be painted red, and the cross pieces left natural. Bowsprit step. The kit Bowsprit stop is attached to the underside of the first upper deck beam (UD1) This is intended to fit in a deck slot forward of the Topsail sheet Bitts, a simplification which for practical purposes has no relevance if the kit is assembled as an oob build. 1827 In practice the Bowsprit stop should fit between the Fore topsail sheet bitt posts and take a mortise to accept the Bowsprit heel. I made a new Stop cut from 4mm Boxwood sheet. This is glued between the Topsail sheet Bitts which are fitted now rather than much later in the build. 1819 An angled tenon is cut into the Bowsprit end to fit the stop. This is relevant to my build because my Foc’sle deck will mostly be missing, and I intend to add manger boards which run from the bitt posts. I did a similar modification on my Sphinx build. 1825 1826 1828 I now have the Stove, Capstan, and pumps to make up. B.E. 20/08/2023

Thank you, Allan, I have seen that interesting thread; As with much that concerns our interest there are more questions than answers. I note that although Brian Lavery (Arming and fitting) has a lot to say about carriages, construction detail of trucks is absent. I am content to accept that both solid and composite trucks were both in use during the 18th century, but in terms of my Indy build at 1:64 scale, I am happy to use the composite trucks provided. If nothing else they add a little interest to an otherwise plain fitting. Regards, B.E.

Your work is impressive Robert, no mean feat to complete a Victory model to such a high standard. She looks wonderful, well done. 👏 B.E.

I’m following in the pure tradition of Navy Board style models, Ron, Well that’s my excuse anyway..😉 B.E.

Post Sixty-four Still with the guns It’s the tweaking that takes the time, adding modified ring bolts, highlighting the missing cap square elements, and touching up the paintwork . Even so I have not made the additions I included on the much smaller guns I fitted on Pegasus, such as pin and chain fastenings for the cap squares, and truck keys. 1099 The hinge bolts for the cap squares are already moulded onto the Indy 24’s but I added the forward part using thin Fibre board. 1100 I also gave an impression of the missing trunnion cap by painting the gun trunnions with a line of Vallejo Black/grey. 1103 I think the effect passes muster given the viewing angle available with the guns in place. 1105 The quoin handle shows up nicely on this shot, and is clearly visible with the gun onboard. 1106 The macros do pick up some flaws, but at normal viewing they look ok. The issue of the square axle/round hole remains, but doesn’t stand out with the guns in place on Indy. 1767 1768 1771 These chunky guns do look impressive lined up along the expanse of the Indy gun deck. 1764 1760 I don’t intend to rig the guns and will glue and pin the carriages thro' the bed to the deck. Not quite the end of the gun story, I have another session when I get around to the carronades, and the remaining 12 pounder longs. Moving onto the centre line fittings now. B.E. 17/08/2023

Thing is Alan, you can’t see what is just out of shot, tidy it ain’t. I enlarged my work area to take on Indy and the clutter has expanded to fill it.🙄 B.E.

Blimey Ron, Do you mean the Pony Express no longer runs? B.E.

Post Sixty-three Guns, guns, and more damned guns. Busy days down at the Gunwharf with production in full swing. 1698 1707 1703 The guns were given a further coat of Vallejo black to ensure that none of the unwanted striations showed through. 1705 1725 Chris was thoughtful enough to include a spare carriage set, and a number of spare wheels and other bits to cater for any mishaps. Just as well, in my case a couple of wheels did ping off into the ether during over enthusiastic de-charring, never to be seen again. 1728 At last, all but two guns more or less finished. The casting of two of the guns failed, and replacements are hopefully en-route from the Foundry. Still some tidying up to do, before a trial fit aboard Indy. B.E. 16/08/2023

Thanks Dave, It is a representation of a (part) of a cap square designed to be seen from above and aft when fitted on the ship. Chris has designed the carriages with tabs to allow fitting in deck slots for security. The barrels are fitted later thro' the ports so as a practical matter proper cap squares cannot be fitted. I have in mind to tweak matters a little as I am not using the tab system. Cheers, M.