Blue Ensign

I added boarding ladders and channels – and with that I am finished with Chapter 9 .  
The channels as well as the boarding ladder steps I pinned on first (image 1) before I glued them to the hull in order to guarantee optimal placement. This is especially of interest with the channels as the precut notches which determine the locations of the dead eyes later may interfere with the gun ports if the placement is not done correctly. Images 2 – 5 show some different perspectives of the model with boarding ladders and channels attached.
 

 

 

 

 

Another small update. Just finished inner planking, painted it red and now I'm doing lining (or whatever that is) inside gunports using ,5mm planks. Quite an easy job that makes the ports look much better, methinks.
 

Ive had a busy week, but managed to get som time to paint the poles. It took some time as there are many colors on them and IMO was hard to get uniform with the rest of the ship, so a lot of paint mixing and blending. They are really fragile as they get very small areas to glue to the ship, so no touching (something some friends have a problem understanding when they see her).
 
So now the stern is finished and I can start to look (with some fear) at the gallery sculptures. Hopefully I can show some figures next update and not just melted plastic... Time to get that soldering iron Nigel.
 
 
/Matti

In between the work on the masts I started on the first boat, Caldercrafts 24’ cutter.
 
The rips were made according CC’s instructions. Contrary to them the floorboards were not mounted on the prepared piece of plywood but directly on the floor. A cockpit floor and a small ’deck’ up front (I wonder what’s that actually called?) were added.
For those 2 details and a lot more information I used Chuck’s beautiful longboat as source – thank you, Chuck. The rowlocks were filed into the side as per CC’s instruction.
 
Further detailing of the boats interior will not be made as the smaller cutter will be stowed inside this one. For the coloring I followed mostly the instructions and just added some blue to make it ‘the blue cutter’.
 
 

The rips are made from cartridge paper
 

Floorboards are added and the risers are being glued in place
 

Cockpit floor added (the boat sits on a copy of Chuck’s longboat- that’s a perhaps a bit impertinent)
 

It’s now the ‘blue’ cutter
 

Front platform added
 

Cockpit seats added – the captain inspects the new boat
 

Provisionally stowed – looking at those pictures I think I will have to make a kind of support to keep the boat stable on the spars
 

She has ratlines!!
 

 

 

 
Well, with it the standing rigging is done.

Build Update:
 
Completion of the Transom and Fashion Pieces.  
 
This segment of my build could have been appropriately titled, "the slippery slope".  In this stage I have redone, or touched up many items both on the transom, and in other areas, to the point that I had to stop.  Telling myself to take a stand, and let this work be a statement of current ability, and not a quixotic quest for perfection.  Ultimately, I am pleased with how the transom came out, though there is an exaggerated curve to the port side of the transom that apparently is in the fairing of the framing, that has translated to the exterior, making it difficult to finish it in a way that looks symmetrical.  
 
A note on the transom cap rail:  As mentioned above in this log, there was some concern over the material used to construct the curve of the transom cap.  I had intentions of purchasing the Beech strip mentioned, however I was spurred on by earlier successes in producing compound curves with the supplied material.  I was able to produce the cap in one piece, with one try, using the supplied 1/4" wide basswood strip.  I let the strip soak first for about 3 and a half hours in the vertical position.  I really do not know if this produces better results in reality, than soaking horizontally in a bath.  However, I have found the method to "seems" to produce more supple planks.  Perhaps this is just an illusion created by the natural variation of the material and the order in which I selected it?  I have observed that when the strips soak vertically, capillary action wicks the water up the strip to a height several inches higher than where the strip enters the water.  Any body have any thoughts on this?
 
Also, as you will see from the photos, I added an additional strip to the after surface of the cap.  I did this because, when sanding the cap, I accidentally made it flush in some areas with the transom.  Wanting some overhang for aesthetic purposes, I added the strip and re-shaped to give the present look.  I additionally, added my own interpretation to the fashion pieces.
 

 

 

 

 

 

JS,
 
Thanks for your nice thought. YES I know (:-) I now know, of soooo many errors with this build, including what you rightfully pointed out as incorrectly shaped weather deck entry housings. 
 
FYI: I started this build about nine years ago, and after an initial start it sat in a closet for several years. It was, at the time being build exactly as Corel intended, along with its many errors. I was ignorant and had not looked for source material. THAT has changed.
 
Over the last 2 years or so I have been "catching up" with the build, which included a lot of re-building. I purchased several books, including the Museum book Vasa 1, the Hocker, and Landström books, I should receive his (L) this week (I note that your photos come from that source) I also have the pdf version of same, along with several sheets of the museum plans; I have also been helped by other members who are also building the Vasa.
 
Adding to that, my files now contain many hundreds of photos of the 1:1, the 1/10th as well as many of Clayton's photos. So going forward from 2 years ago I became much more aware of how it should look. But JS, this is all recent history (:-) I built the weather deck nine years ago from the Corel plans.
 
So this build, in its current state, has gone through some "re-building. I wanted to fix the errors that could be fixed. The weather deck entry door will not be part of those repairs. Too late.
 
I have learned a lot here at MSW by reading, looking, and by many times thinking OMG some of our member builders are astonishing; specially on the scratch built side of the "wall". I'll never climb over that wall..ha ha....
 
For your edification, as well as my piece of mind. I offer these examples of "fixes. I appreciate your looking into this build, thanks.
Stern as Corel intended+some extras even back then.My repair of Corel stern in progressmostly repairedA super excellent exactly as Corel intended build, from a European builder.this one speaks for itselfMy attempt at doing the stern as best I can per the 1:1
Regard,
 
Michael

A small update with pictures...
 
Fore preventer stay now installed as well as the outer bobstay. Lots of fun making those fully served strops.... hrmm...
 
Of course all this ropework around the same area of the bowsprit encourages yet another GFP
 
Next up I figure I'l go after the bowsprit shrouds, I stand a chance of getting them down before I have to go back to work. Boomkins will wait until later-ish. Then I'll go after the first round of ratlines. No I'm not putting that off, I just don't want to get in to such a lengthy process and have to stop. I want to be able to get them all done over the course of a solid week's work (I'm assuming a week... I dunno, could be longer ). Looking ahead, I'm going to also want to get the jeer tyes rigged up before things get too buried.... probably use them as a diversion from rattling...  anyway, I'm rambling a bit.... so much to do, so little done...
 
 
Andy

There you go, Sjors, you didn't have to wait too long
 
Of course, super close up does nobody any favours....
 
Anyway, the open heart for the forestay collar was made by cutting down an oversized heart. I'll use a smaller one for the preventer stay collar, but overall I like the appearance. The bobstay also looks much better now that it's served all over. Of course I can't much help having another gratuitous figrehead shot.... just to bug Augie
 
 
That could be a new meme around here.... the gratuitous figurehead photo.... hmm....
 
 
A small pause for the weekend, a few more chores to take care of up north. Back monday-ish.
 
Andy

Ratlines between the mizzen shrouds...
Mouse on the mizzen...
 
I realized that these small pets had been so familiar to the crew, so friend... all around on board... and had entered into the ship vocabulary...
 
 

Timmo, Ferit - cheers!
 
Pete - have done nothing at all to the pins
 
Alistair - thanks for the detailed guidance, I love the suggestion, I think BE also took a similar approach to what you describe and now after re-reading its all making a bit more sense - learn by doing I suppose.  Your picture is really tremendous, a work of art in of itself!  What kind of line are you using, it looks so much better than anything I've seen elsewhere - on my next kit if I get that far I definitely want to upgrade the thread.  I'm going to ponder the cannon rigging question for a bit, mainly because I'm not going to have time do anything in near future, but definitely think that your suggestion is the way to go.  I've also been quietly checking out your Fly (that sounds bad!), you've got a wonderful build going there that I'm certainly learning from.
 
Managed to finish off one of the carronades after much experimentation.  Far from perfect, but pretty pleased with how it turned out compared to the look I was going for.  Would have been nice to have had smaller blocks as they are definitely a little overscale, but I can live with it.  No more updates until I'm done with carronade rigging!
 

 
 

Hi Jason
I've been looking at your log without reply. You are doing fantastic work - crisp, clean and precise. I like it very much!
 
As for your tackle problem: consider fixing the rope to the blocks without a separate hook. This saves a lot of room but does give you an iron bound block rather than a rope bound one. I did this on my AVS which I reckon is a tighter rig than yours and got good separation between the blocks. I use a very thin blackened jewellery wire for the process. The same process is used for the double block but without the rope seizing. Here is a diagram I did a while ago and a picture of the roped tackle with 3mm blocks. You can also look at my AVS log for the results. I reckon you'll gain all the space you need but it will look slightly different than your carronade rig. I also have no idea what that eye bolt standing up from the rear of your cannon carriage is for - haven't ever seen one there...
 
Really great work - I'll keep following.
 
Cheers
Alistair

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Forecastle deck planking
 
The deck was planked in the same manner as the gun deck using the maple planking and blackening the sides, I joggled the planks from the position as shown in The anatomy of ships Diana, the effect is much better than just tapering the planking but you do need the waterway to do it, I planked over the cutter-ways in the deck and will add the fittings over them, there are no joints as the plank lengths are to short where there are no fittings.
 
First plank down

 
A few rows down


 
Just more than half done

 
Joggled planks

 
Deck completed and varnished


 

There is nothing glamorous or exciting about first planking.  It’s just what you do to build a model ship.  It’s the foundation for the real job of the second planking.  I wondered the first time I built a model why do you do two planking jobs, isn’t one enough.  Fact is no it isn’t.  A real ship, and advanced plank on frame models, have frames very close together.  Not the case on a plank of bulkhead type model.  The first planking really establishes the curves and feel of the hull, the second makes it look like a real ship.
 
As such, and even so, I can’t say I enjoyed this job.  It really was an ordeal to get “all the space filled.”  A lot of this is because I have to admit to taking a half-assed approach to it knowing I’d get wood all over the model and fit it close enough.  I knew I could sand it into the smooth surface it needed to be for the 2nd planking (not to mention copper plating) and I accomplished that goal.  The hull is fine, it’s the right shape, its even and mostly smooth thanks to 80 grit sandpaper followed by 220 grit paper, my Black & Decker Sanding Mouse, and my elbows.  But it was ugly, probably the worst I’ve ever done, and I didn’t enjoy it. 
 
I was committed to getting it done quickily and have it look right in the end, which it does.  But it probably would have been easier to take the time to plan and map out the plank splining, do a better job beveling the back frames and including balsa between frames 3 and 4 and not think I had to do it in a few days.
 

 
I elect to finish this stage with a couple of coats of waterbased polly with light sanding between coats with 220 grit and a light but coarser 150 grit final finish.  I’ve found this not only helps even further smooth the hull, it also keeps moisture and humitiy from upsetting anything.  Just serves to seal it up.
 
Again, it looks fine as far as a smooth surface goes, but there are awkwardly fit planks (that will soon never again see the light of day so its not that big a deal) that assault the senses of the perfectionist in me.  

Whalers are great subjects with interesting fittings and I like the look of your Morgan John, a fine job on the copper tape. I imagine as hard worked ships they are a good candidate for a bit of weathering if you choose to go down that route.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

OK let's try again.....
 
Next after fiddling with the lengths of the lower masts, here is what I arrived at....
 

 
These are just the raw dowels set in the mast holes - the rake in the mizzen isn't accurate and the rake in the foremast shouldn't be there at all. Anyway, this is just to demonstrate relative size...
 
Here are the foremast cheeks and bibbs which I made as 1 piece instead of separately, thinking that to make separate parts at this scale would simply be too tough.
 

 
Here is the foremast top, unfinished. Corel's laser cut part was accurate with respect to dimensions, except the thickness (1.5mm) which would have made the top much too bulky after adding the planking and the margins. So I traced the laser cut part onto a 1/32 thick sheet of lime and planked it using .5mm x 3mm strips. The margins are also 1/32"lime.
 

 
It looks a little mongrelly here, but after painting it's much better (sorry for the bad focus!)
 

 
Finally here are a couple of the shots of the fore mast dry fitted. It's not exactly finished yet - I still have to paint the bolsters and the mast head cleats and also reduce the latter's size so they don't look so bulky....
 

 

 
You may notice the holes drilled in the forward edge of the top for the crow's feet, which I plan on adding. My worry here is that the smallest blocks I have are 3mm, which even at that small size is too big for the crow's feet tackle. A suitable euphroe I can probably manage, but the tackle blocks will be a challenge. I'm not sure how much I can reduce the size of the 3mm blocks supplied by corel (which at any rate are very fragile things) though I might be able to do something with 1/8" blocks supplied by model shipways and leftover from previous builds (though these are slightly larger than the corel ones!!
 
Anyway that's a future worry. Hope you're all enjoying the day - now back to work!!
hamilton

Neatly done Andy, looking good, are you leaving the shroud seizings natural? Love the Bowsprit attachments, very tidy work, anyone would think you were a sailor with ropework like that.
 
B.E.

Neatly done Andy, looking good, are you leaving the shroud seizings natural? Love the Bowsprit attachments, very tidy work, anyone would think you were a sailor with ropework like that.
 
B.E.

A couple of more

And a few more

Also got the pins painted and attached to the pinrails.

OK, coppering is finished.  I got the starboard side done, then capped the keel, touched up some paint and here it is.   Major accomplishment and I like how it turned out.

Very nicely done Frank, a great paint job, love the detail you've picked out, particularly on the shirts.
 
B.E.

Neatly done Andy, looking good, are you leaving the shroud seizings natural? Love the Bowsprit attachments, very tidy work, anyone would think you were a sailor with ropework like that.
 
B.E.