Blue Ensign

That book is a great idea and looks fabulous. It is missing your name on the cover though.

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

Gluing the Bulkheads
My approach to gluing the bulkheads is to start with the centre one (0) and then work sequentially aft and forrad.

6804
To get the important first bulkhead set square I use a mini level and Engineer squares.

6805
In addition to vertical planes the square is also used to check that the Bulkheads are square to the keel.
This will be the benchmark against which all the other bulkheads will be lined up.

6810
Each bulkhead in turn is checked with square and level until all are in place.

6812
I also set up a separate keel support base so I can turn and eye-sight along the frame tops.
Well that's the easy bit, progress will inevitably slow as I get into the build proper.
B.E.
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

My Pegasus build was my last foray into the world of 1:64 scale Square Rigged ships.
My future projects will consist of larger scale models of smaller vessels.
Chuck's beautifully designed kits of the Pinnace and the Longboat fall perfectly into this category, and the Pinnace will be my new project. I used the Pinnace plans to produce the reduced scale scratch versions for my Pegasus build.
It has been some six years since I last planked a hull and I'm feeling quite ring rusty, so I will have to do some serious revision of the art.
Not quite decided as yet whether to go with the provided Limewood, or upgrade to Boxwood
There are some excellent Pinnace builds on MSW as well as Chuck's own exemplary build, and I am grateful to the work of Mike Y and MikeB4 whose logs I will browse to assist my own effort.
May be a while before I have anything to usefully show, but here's the 'mini' version as a place holder.

Cheers,
B.E.

Gluing the Bulkheads
My approach to gluing the bulkheads is to start with the centre one (0) and then work sequentially aft and forrad.

6804
To get the important first bulkhead set square I use a mini level and Engineer squares.

6805
In addition to vertical planes the square is also used to check that the Bulkheads are square to the keel.
This will be the benchmark against which all the other bulkheads will be lined up.

6810
Each bulkhead in turn is checked with square and level until all are in place.

6812
I also set up a separate keel support base so I can turn and eye-sight along the frame tops.
Well that's the easy bit, progress will inevitably slow as I get into the build proper.
B.E.
 

Gluing the Bulkheads
My approach to gluing the bulkheads is to start with the centre one (0) and then work sequentially aft and forrad.

6804
To get the important first bulkhead set square I use a mini level and Engineer squares.

6805
In addition to vertical planes the square is also used to check that the Bulkheads are square to the keel.
This will be the benchmark against which all the other bulkheads will be lined up.

6810
Each bulkhead in turn is checked with square and level until all are in place.

6812
I also set up a separate keel support base so I can turn and eye-sight along the frame tops.
Well that's the easy bit, progress will inevitably slow as I get into the build proper.
B.E.
 

Gluing the Bulkheads
My approach to gluing the bulkheads is to start with the centre one (0) and then work sequentially aft and forrad.

6804
To get the important first bulkhead set square I use a mini level and Engineer squares.

6805
In addition to vertical planes the square is also used to check that the Bulkheads are square to the keel.
This will be the benchmark against which all the other bulkheads will be lined up.

6810
Each bulkhead in turn is checked with square and level until all are in place.

6812
I also set up a separate keel support base so I can turn and eye-sight along the frame tops.
Well that's the easy bit, progress will inevitably slow as I get into the build proper.
B.E.
 

Gluing the Bulkheads
My approach to gluing the bulkheads is to start with the centre one (0) and then work sequentially aft and forrad.

6804
To get the important first bulkhead set square I use a mini level and Engineer squares.

6805
In addition to vertical planes the square is also used to check that the Bulkheads are square to the keel.
This will be the benchmark against which all the other bulkheads will be lined up.

6810
Each bulkhead in turn is checked with square and level until all are in place.

6812
I also set up a separate keel support base so I can turn and eye-sight along the frame tops.
Well that's the easy bit, progress will inevitably slow as I get into the build proper.
B.E.
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

My Pegasus build was my last foray into the world of 1:64 scale Square Rigged ships.
My future projects will consist of larger scale models of smaller vessels.
Chuck's beautifully designed kits of the Pinnace and the Longboat fall perfectly into this category, and the Pinnace will be my new project. I used the Pinnace plans to produce the reduced scale scratch versions for my Pegasus build.
It has been some six years since I last planked a hull and I'm feeling quite ring rusty, so I will have to do some serious revision of the art.
Not quite decided as yet whether to go with the provided Limewood, or upgrade to Boxwood
There are some excellent Pinnace builds on MSW as well as Chuck's own exemplary build, and I am grateful to the work of Mike Y and MikeB4 whose logs I will browse to assist my own effort.
May be a while before I have anything to usefully show, but here's the 'mini' version as a place holder.

Cheers,
B.E.

Nice idea with the styrene strip as a guide.  Temporary stand looks great!

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

My Pegasus build was my last foray into the world of 1:64 scale Square Rigged ships.
My future projects will consist of larger scale models of smaller vessels.
Chuck's beautifully designed kits of the Pinnace and the Longboat fall perfectly into this category, and the Pinnace will be my new project. I used the Pinnace plans to produce the reduced scale scratch versions for my Pegasus build.
It has been some six years since I last planked a hull and I'm feeling quite ring rusty, so I will have to do some serious revision of the art.
Not quite decided as yet whether to go with the provided Limewood, or upgrade to Boxwood
There are some excellent Pinnace builds on MSW as well as Chuck's own exemplary build, and I am grateful to the work of Mike Y and MikeB4 whose logs I will browse to assist my own effort.
May be a while before I have anything to usefully show, but here's the 'mini' version as a place holder.

Cheers,
B.E.

I am really excited that this is your new project. This should be cake compared to the beautifully tiny version you created for your Pegasus. I've barely started my Pinnace and am sure your build will  be a great inspiration. 
Steve