Blue Ensign

Completion Photos
 
This post concludes my log of a nine month build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More to follow
 
B.E.

A few odds and ends
 
Rudder coat and pendants.
 
I usually make rudder coats out of micro-porus tape as it has a sort of canvas finish to it and has the added advantage of a sticky back.
Rudder coats are a sort of bell shape in plan but cutting a pattern for a particular ship is a matter of trial and error.
 
There should be an element of ‘bag’ in the coat to allow free movement of the rudder
 
This is difficult to achieve without padding out the interior, I use a little cotton wool off a cotton bud for this purpose.
After this it is just a matter of teasing it into shape around the transom and rudder.

The canvas was tarred to waterproof it as much as possible and I have represented this with a black grey finish.

 
The Rudder pendants
 
Evidence is that even smallish vessels like Pickle would have had some system for retaining the rudder after all loss of rudder was no small matter.
I could not find any detailed information exactly how the pendants and chains would have been fitted on Pickle; similar smallish vessels are shown with the pendants taken up over the transom and secured to cleats on the inside. This method would foul the stern gunports in the case of Pickle.

I fitted chains to eyebolts secured in the rudder and to eyebolts in the lower transom, and contented myself with this arrangement for the present.
 
Anchor buoys
 
These too are an essential part of a ships equipment, they need to be clearly seen on the water, and the standard size is 54”x 30” with something in excess of 100’ of line.(475mm)
 
Smaller vessels such as Pickle would have had a smaller version and I scaled mine down to 36” x 20”
I made an egg shaped core from the cone shaped tips of two cheap bic prop pencils and planked these with styrene strip.
 
With the addition of eyebolts either end and 0.25mm line to form the slings and hoops and the job’s done.

I don’t normally adhere to scale lengths of line but in this case I have measured out 18 fathoms of line (scale of course) to coil on the shrouds.

 

 

Nearly there
 
 

You are a fine artist Doris and a true inspiration to all model makers.
I am pleased to see your work once again.
 
B.E.

Part 9 -modeling the visible part of the second wing and improving details, the final adjustment of whole shape



Finished sculpture ready for baking:
 
Pegasus is ready for baking in the oven and after that I will paint it and place onto the base of one from my sailing ships

I believe it is what as known as "The rule of 2 square feet"
 
No matter how hard one tries to keep clean and organized, every hobby space will inevitably reduced to an area of 2 square feet.
 
I've tried to be clean... but honestly it just doesn't work. Can't do it. It's only clean when I'm gone away to work.
 
Andy

I am not very good at drawing but  . . .
 

 
The last four pictures shows different places I have used this method.
 
Around a yard.

 
Under a top. These blocks were added by passing the thicker thread around the cross tree before doing any warping.

 
All of these blocks are attached with this method. I used a variation of this method to attach the stay.

 
And one more

 
I lied.  One more.

 
 

This post is not intended as a definitive discussion on the subject and there are other options used in the real world.  It simply provides some background information and is an update of a post I placed on MSW 1.0.
Even in modern naval and merchant ship seamanship practice, the state/look of the ship depends on her current employment.  If at sea, ropes, tails and fag-ends are left in a secure (won't move around) but ready to use state.  In harbour, especially if under their lordship's eyes, most ropes are made up to look neat and tidy (exceptions might be the boat rope etc if at anchor or at a buoy).
In the days of sail, there were many lines and ropes used, and most running rigging had a tail that needed to be secured for ready use and/or be presented in a more tidy manner when in harbour / not underway.
When making up rope/lines ready for use, they are either coiled or flaked out.  The greatest care is taken to prevent two things: the rope/line will run out freely without snagging, and minimising the chance of injury to crew and equipment.
The left/right twist of a rope needs to be considered when making-up a coil.  Try making up a rope, especially natural fibre ropes, against their lay and you will soon get snarls/kinks.  Once made-up, the coil can be put down opposite to its lay, but the direction of the lay of the coil (rope itself) will not change, only the aspect/perspective of the lay as you look at it.
Short story depending on the aspect you wish to model – steady state at sea or in harbour, or preparing for getting under way, will determine how to depict the ropes.
 
Flaking
Flaking a rope is to arrange it on the deck ready for easy use or made up as a decorative finish for the rope while in harbour etc.
 
The Flemish Flake (or Flemish Coil) provides an attractive, neat way of temporarily stowing the end of a rope.  A Flemish flake/coil, also called a cheesed coil, is a flat coil of rope with the end in the centre and the turns lying against, without riding over, each other.  Flemish coils were, and still are, used by the 'Grey Funnel Line' (Navy) and by yachties when they want everything to look especially neat and tidy.  See:
http://ikstremdom.is-a-chef.com/outdoor/rope/animatedknots/flemish/index.htm or
http://www.animatedknots.com/flemish/index.php?Categ=ropecare&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

From: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dsL-IPHIfHWmxdkiOjOBLg
 
For larger ropes where the tail end is very long, an alternate pattern can be made-up by first laying the rope down flat on the deck, in long concentric loops.  Take a bight (all loops) from the end opposite to the direction of the standing end, flip and draw it across itself to form the figure eight (as shown).  The finished result is represented below in a more 'artistic' display which does not show the standing end.

From: http://www.seattleartmuseum.org/getout/artdescriptions_2011.asp
This decorative rope finish is not to be confused with a working flake of a similar name 'the figure 8 flake'.  See: http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8flake/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 
Another working flake is the zigzag or snaking flake also called 'faking' depending on whom you talk to, and is often used where you need the rope to run out without catching, snubbing or otherwise.  This is normally only used when the rope is being, or about to be worked.

 
For working with running rigging, a more modern practice is to use the Ballantine Coil for the halyards when a sail is raised.  With masts that may rise over 100 feet above the water, the halyards are quite long requiring very careful coiling to keep the lines organised so they will run free if needed and not become tangled.  The Ballantine Coil builds a stable coil that is compact and stable.

See http://captnmike.com/2011/10/03/coiling-line-using-the-ballantine-coil-on-the-adventuress/ for details on how to make this coil up.
 
Line Coils

The tail end of a rope is always coiled with the direction of the twist.  If the rope is the tail end of a halyard or such, which is to be belayed, the loops are started about half an arm’s length (adjust to scale) along the standing end from the belaying pin.  Once the loops have been formed, a bight is taken in the standing-end, drawn through the top of the eye in the loops, and hung from the belaying pin, cleat or staghorn as shown in the following links.
http://ikstremdom.is-a-chef.com/outdoor/rope/animatedknots/coilattached/index.htm  or
http://www.animatedknots.com/coilattached/index.php?Categ=ropecare&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 
Some modellers prefer to form these coils off the model and hang it from the belaying pin which, at scale, covers the securing knot/line on the belaying pin which masks whether it has been formed on or off the model.  As I prefer to be authentic, I prefer to form these on the model just as in real life using a few rigging tools.  This should not done until all rigging (associated with these belaying pins/fixtures) has been completed and the final tensions applied to the ropes.  Secure the rope-ends as you would in real life to that fitting (pin, cleats etc), dab it with a touch of diluted PVA glue, then form the loops over the end of one tool.  Use the other tool or a pair of tweezers to
pull the bight through and loop it over the pin going to the side of the tool on which the loops have been formed.
 
Some associated useful links include:
Knots:
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexboating.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
Whippings:
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexropecare.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com or
http://ikstremdom.is-a-chef.com/outdoor/rope/animatedknots/sailmakers/index.htm
Splices:
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexsplicing.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com or
http://ikstremdom.is-a-chef.com/outdoor/rope/animatedknots/backspliceropecare/index.htm

A simple man’s guide to sail making (part two)
 
The sail has been cut out complete with a hem all the way round, the positions of the cringles have been marked along the edges.
The hems are folded over and a small slit where the cringles are to be placed is made with the scalpel.
0.1mm line is then placed along the hem inside the fold and fished thro with a small pointy thing, to form the cringles.
This is the position so reached.
 

 

After the first few cringles have been formed the hem is glued down using neat PVA to hold the cringles in place.
 
In the pic below all the cringles have now been put into place.
 
Down each side from the top are the three pairs of Reef cringles, followed by three Bowline cringles; the leech line is attached thro’ the top two.
 
At the clue is the cringle for the blocks..
 
Across the foot of the sail are the cringles for the buntlines.

Bands, patches and linings
Additional strengthening pieces of ‘cloth’ are now required to be added to the sail. These are all attached to the aft side of the sail as shown above (Fore side on British ships.)
They comprise:
The reef bands, three narrow strips thro’ which the reef points are fixed.
The Patches small squares of material below the reef cringles at the leech.
The Top lining, the most distinctive addition whose purpose is to protect the sail from wear by friction against the mast top.
The Lining cloths which are strengthening strips staggered down the leech of the sail.
A bit like wallpapering this part, cut it to size, slap on the paste, and stick it down.
 

With the light behind the full effect of the various additions can now be seen.
A series of holes were drilled thro’ the Reef bands to take the Reef points, and again on the Head lining to take the Robands.
Some 150 reef points are required on the Topsail.
 
Once the sails are in place they can be manipulated at any later stage by the simple expediency of wetting them down.
 

The Mizen sail, the Brails that control the sail furling are all in place, there are matching lines on each side of the sail.
 
 

a simple wet down of the sail and haul on the Brails and the sail is loosely furled.
 

 
Modelspan is a tough material and in my workings with I had no failures.
 
 

 

I would use modelspan for kitting out models certainly up to 1:96 scale.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hello Ian, it may be that swivels were not fitted in that location, do you have a particular class of Frigate in mind. The usual  indication of a swivel gun is the stock into which it fitted. there were usually more stocks than swivel guns carried.
 
The only contemporary model with a beakhead bulkhead I have seen with swivel stocks is of a sixth rate 24 gun ship cica 1740.
this had stocks for swivels on the foc'sle (two each side) the foremost one aft of the cathead.
 
B.E.

well, a new step: bulwark stanchions and various holes (hawse, rudder and bulwark)

Hi Jay, the leech lines also  come across the front of the sail.
 
Don't know if it will be of any help to you but this is a sail rigging plan I prepared when building my heller Seventy-four.
 

 
This is the fore sail, not as fully detailed as the topsails as it was eventually clewed up.
 
B.E.

After that much research I needed something easy to relax ...
 
On the left Hellers version of the rudderwheel, right dafis version, just enjoy, no further explanations :-)
 

 

 

 

      

 

 

 

 
Gute Nacht, Daniel

Act 3
Happy End
 
And here they are, our happy actors ...
 

 
... from the inside ... 
 

 
... and with a mockup crane.
 

 
Huuuuooorrrrrraaaaaaayyyyyy!

I'm caught up on the updates from my previous log... Now we are in new territory!
 
I've started in on the spar deck hatch coamings... I thought I should build them up a bit and add some curvature to the surface.
 
I started by adding Evergreen no. 144 (.040x.080) to the side edges of all the coamings.  Next I added Evergreen no. 164 (.080x.080) to the front and back edges.  This built up enough material to allow for shaping the curved edges:
 

 
Then I prepared the patient for surgery by masking the decking to protect against random scraping as I used the file to shape the edges:
 

 

 
I lined the hatch interiors with Evergreen no. 129 (.020x.250) leaving a slight lip for the gratings:
 

 

 
Still need to finish off some more interior details and perhaps soften the curvature on a few of the hatches.
 
Thanks for following along.

Everyone: So to get the progress of my Caldercraft back into this folder, attached is my most recent progress of My Aggy. I have the stern and gallery windows. I now have the spar deck on and have begun planking the deck as well. Once I have that completed I will provide a updated pic of that as well
 
Mike Draper
Whitehorse, Yukon
Canada

Completion Photos
 
This post concludes my log of a nine month build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More to follow
 
B.E.

I have lots of favourite hand tools, they are all favourites when it comes down to need for a particular job.
 
However, I would not like to be without my Swann- Morton scalpels and No. 11 blades. I get through copious amounts of No 11 blades.
 
B.E
 
 

And it continued with an answer from Jan here in MSW:   You will drive yourself insane! My guess is that your next "problem" will be to get these tiny blocks stropped according the rule book Next you will realize that blocks have sheaves, that sheaves are held into position by iron pins, that these pins have nail like heads, that.... etc.   We will follow your route to insanity with ever increasing admiration!   Jan   OK-OK-OK, Jan´s challenge was accepted :-) The stropping we had already, so the next is ...     ... put a 1 mm poly rod into the machine, drill with 0,4 mm, turning the chuck of the lathe of course by hand ...     ... and cutting it off still on the drill to 0,5 mm slices ...     ... and this is the result of the production.   So what is missing next for some good blocks? The casing:   So milling a double slot and a single slot into a 2,5 mm x 1 mm batten ...     ... doing some carving ...     ... colored the disks with marker for not adding to the thickness ...     ... inserted the disks and the axles  ...     ... and cleared it up.     And here the family shot with the benchmark, the wonderful 2 x 2 x 2 mm block from JB.      While stropping I finally re-remembered the great power-splice, which makes things easier and cleaner, prepared a loop ...     ... and slid the block into it, secured with glue and  ...    *drummrollandsmallfanfare*   ... and the thing on place :-)   Lessons learned:  It is really possible to make blocks of 2,5 x 2,5 x 1 mm with turning sheaves! And by pulling on the loose end, the tackle works much easier than the other ones without :-) :-) :-)   The most difficult? Checking if the sheaves are turning after securing the axles with glue. Managed to do this with the point of a needle. Confirmed positivly!   ;-)   Liebe Grüße Daniel

And some more basic work. To do the side takles of my guns in 1:100 I need small blocks. The smallest commercially available are the 2 mm from JB, great stuff but still a little bit to big for my taste. So I wanted to see what there is still possible :-)
 
Literature shows several ways of doing blocks, most of them done in a similar way, so I am following that, just have to take out most of the machinery because of the size.
 
First I prepared a batten of 1,5 mm high and 1 mm thick, and marked it all 2 mm which gave the basic size of these ambitious project ...
 

 
... each of these marks got a diagonal cut in one direction and after all done, the batten was turned and the other side cut, so the grooves on one side were finished. Repeated on all four sides ...
 

 
... and this was achieved rather fast, some matt varnish to strengthen the edges ...
 

 
... and first drilling tests ...
 

 
... with the 0,5er drill. Result, difficult to get the right place, so more testing until it looked like in a swiss cheese factory ...
 

 
... and finally the enlightenment: 0,5 mm drill fixed in the stand, a stop in 0,5 mm distance is fixed. The stop has the width of 2 mm which facilitates positioning. 
Now hold the batten tight and near at both sides and slide it up the stop until drilled ...
 

 
... move down and turn the batten 180° around the longitudinal axis, slide up and drill the second hole :-) 
(I spared you the fingers on the picture :-)
 
Looks already ok, the four blocks left of my little worker are the single blocks of 1 mm x 1 mm x 2 mm - hihihihihi - ... 
 

 
... a second coat of varnish, the cutter makes the groove on the side for the line - the most difficult part on the whole action - some sanding off of the edges, some more varnish and done. They stay on the batten and will be cut just prior to production for not getting lost - just in time production  :-)
 

 
Just a family picture: the Krick 3 mm, the JB 2 mm and Microline from dafi, and as it looks nice a macro shot.
 

 
So I already see the crowd out there laughing in anticipation of the knots in dafis fingers, while trying to tying some rigging onto these littel bits ...
 

... and this was the result with a descent rope:
 

 
*jumpingofhappiness*
 
Not yet perfect, but the direction is right :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Just one more set guys and that should  bring the magazine up to speed.

And the final set.

And more!

Still more photos.

More photos.

More photos.