Blue Ensign

I had my 3-d printed samples arrive yesterday for the carronades and 32 and 18 pounder barrels, the 3-d files are now with my resin castor, who will printed them and use them for the masters for the black resin castings.
 
One change I have asked my castor to make is to remove the threaded bar at the rear of each carronade and replace with a hole to which a length of brass will be pushed through to simulate the threaded bar. It is too delicate to cast, and all broke on my 3-d printed samples.
 
I have included a couple of (very bad) pics, showing them on their respective carriages. I am still awaiting the PE for each, most noticeable on the carronade beds, which will have PE rear wheels.
 
There is a 32, 24 and 18 pounder standard carronade, plus an early (1780) 12 pounder, with options for early slide or wheeled carriage - looks very 'stumpy'...
 
Joint bolt and blocks are integrated with the carronade assemblies, and all that is required to fit it to slot them into the sliding upper bed, so no fiddly work required.

So many clever designs in this model, Chris finds the way to show a detailed model everyone can build, regardless of skill level, and enjoy doing it.  

Hi Tim, personally I’m not a fan of the black seizing around the bulwark ring, I think it would look better using natural thread.
My own preference is to use a false splice; thread the end thro’ a needle, pass it thro’ the line close to the ring a couple of times, smear pva over it and roll thro your finger and thumb, and trim.
 
Cheers,
B. E.
 

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20

 

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20

 

Excellent planking and progress, BE!

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Thanks Derek, I think you're right there.
 
I did make up a line with the brown thread to see which I preferred. I wanted to place them both lines on cannons on the deck but I think I'll need to glue the pins in place so I gave up (I wasn't ready for glue since I wasn't decided about between the black and brown seizings). Here are the two lines for comparison:
 


Unless there is an overwhelming response away from the brown thread I think I'm going to use that moving forward. The black (to me) has such contrast that it attempts to draw your eyes away from the gun and I think the brown is enough to know that it is there but not so much to draw a lot of attention to it (also, when I did some image searching everything I found was a natural color). As an aside, in case anyone is following and curious how to do the seizing here is a picture of what I did (a drop of glue for security before trimming the thread):
 

Now, to drive over and pick up my Byrnes table saw (saying that I'm excited is quite the understatement).

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 4
Completing the first layer.

I start with the plank immediately above the Garboard, but here I have the hull inverted.

6802(2)
Using a tick strip I have marked next to the stem and stern the widths of the planks at that point.
These are used to gauge the taper necessary towards the bow; at the stern no taper is required, but a twist is imparted so the plank lies flat against the false keel.

The taper at the bow is still cut on the upper edge, but as the hull is inverted it appears to be the lower edge.


6807(2)
I then added three further strakes from the keel up.


6813(2)
The remaining two strake space is now looking more even from stem to stern but I re-mark the four tapers on bulkheads 10 and 11.


6829
The remaining strake will require spiling and the outline is marked using Tamiya tape.


6827
I always try to arrange for the spiled plank to appear beneath the round of the hull.


6889(2)
The final two planks were cut from Holly sheet, in retrospect I should have ordered a few strips of 10mm wide Limewood strip, I don’t really like using a quality wood for under planking.


6878
I am spending a fair bit of time sanding the hull, paying particular attention to the bow and stern where a feather edge is required to allow for the second planking to fit well against the ‘false rabbet’.


6884
I don’t wish to get into too much sanding of the Pearwood planking to get the ends to lie flush against the stem post.


6899(2)

6877
I’ll fiddle around with the sanding awhile yet until I’m happy with the fit of the second planks against the stem and stern posts.


 
B.E.

28/08/20

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20

 

Hi Tim, personally I’m not a fan of the black seizing around the bulwark ring, I think it would look better using natural thread.
My own preference is to use a false splice; thread the end thro’ a needle, pass it thro’ the line close to the ring a couple of times, smear pva over it and roll thro your finger and thumb, and trim.
 
Cheers,
B. E.
 

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20

 

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20

 

Post 2

Preparing for planking

The first step is to complete the fairing and add the Bulwark patterns.

Fitting the bulwark patterns is a fairly painless exercise.

6706
Starting with the aft patterns soaking and wet fitting to form the shape using clamps to secure above decks, and bulkhead clamps for the lower edge.


6721
I use a hairdryer to speed up the process to establish shape memory, and the patterns can then be attached.



Only the area below the bulkhead tabs is glued, so again clamps only are used to hold the top line. The lower edge is pinned into the bulkheads.

 

6730
It helps to have everything to hand before starting, clamps, pins, pin pusher, and means to apply the glue.

 

6720
For positioning the pattern I use the lower of the two  horizontal lines etched into the inside of the patterns, to align with the sub deck level.

This is something that was mentioned in the Fifie build, but not in the Zulu manual. In practice the top of the pattern mostly aligns with the tabs.


The Fore pattern bends easily around to the stem without the need for wetting. I did give it a blast of hot air whilst dry fitted and left it insitu overnight whilst the aft pattern was curing.


6726
The fore pattern on my build at least, was a perfect fit for length.
I temporarily fitted the stem post and the secondary stem piece to assist with alignment.


6733(2)
The distinctive sheer sweep to the stern now clearly apparent, plank tapering is going to be a significant feature of this build.


6731(2)
In this photo the stem piece is only dry fitted.


6739(2)
I now need to consider my approach to planking.


 
B.E.
22/08/20

 

I've been able to make some progress on the Alert.
 
After sanding the first planking smooth, I attached the spacers for the final, topmost strake, of the first planking. The instructions tell you to pin them in place, but I found it some what difficult. I ended up using masking tape as seen on other Alert builds. I contemplated on attaching them with a drop of CA as an alternative as well.
The top port strake seen on the picture sits a millimeter or two below where it's supposed to (you can see the faint pencil line), at 4 mm below the top of the bulkhead. I re-glued it a couple of times when I started the planking but just could not get it to sit right. The strake runs low only on the first bulkhead and at the correct height at the others. I doubt it's noticeable on the finished model.
 

 
After that I soaked the planks for around 20 minutes in boiled water, clamped into place and let dry overnight.
 

 
I fixed the top strakes in place using CA. I tried apply the glue mostly on the plank edge, as the bulkhead tops will be trimmed down to deck level after the second planking is done. Finally I sanded the top strakes flush with rest of the planking. 
 

 

 
Only a little bit of tweaking left and I'm ready to start the second layer of planking. It's been relatively smooth sailing so far and I hope it stays that way.
 
Thank you all for the likes, views and comments!

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20

 

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20

 

Post 3
First hull planking.

Recalling my experience with the Fifie build it strikes me that the fore and aft filling pieces need a fair bit of further fining down otherwise there will be problems  of getting the final planking to look like it fits flush in a rabbet at the stern and stem posts.

The final pearwood planking is 1mm thick, as is the secondary stern and stem pieces which form the ‘rabbet’.

6716
It follows that the first limewood planking (1mm) which butts against the stern post and ultimately lies against the stem post will require sanding down to 0.5mm or preferably less to allow the top planking to lie flush against the secondary pieces with the minimum of sanding.

Once the second planking is completed the stem piece will need to be used to check that the first planking is adequately feathered to allow this.
The guide suggests that the planking starts at the stern and runs to the bow, where without the stem in place only a rough cut is required.


 
I prefer to work from bow to stern so I intend to set the plank ends at the bow using the stem piece as a guide.

 
For the first planking I decided not to fully line out but work by eye and hand to judge required taper and edge bend.

 
I fiddled awhile with the first strip below the pattern and decided that there was no need to taper from midships forward, but a small taper was required at the aft end from around the third bulkhead from aft.


6744(2)
With the plank clamped in place from stem to stern I marked the sharply angled stern end against the sternpost.

This was cut and again tested along the hull where a final adjustment was made including any requirement for edge bend.

A final check and the plank is glued and pinned.


6775(2)
Four planks down from the pattern and taper and edge bend is only required from four or so bulkheads from aft.

At this point I look at the Garboard plank.

 
Chris has been kind enough to provide pre-cut Garboard planks for the second layer Pearwood planking.


6748
I used these as a template to make equivalents for the first layer which I cut from some 1mm Holly sheet.

 

6756
Fitting the Garboard strake.


6764(2)

6765(2)
The Stem post is only dry fitted at this stage.


6777(2)

6781
Four strakes and Garboard fitted.


 


From the fifth strake down there is tapering and edge bending required for both ends 6761(2)
This photo shows the extent of taper and edge bend required

My approach is to taper and edge bend from midships forward, then temporarily hold in place while the taper and edge bend from midships aft is determined.


6787(2)

6791(2)

6790(2)
There are now six strakes left at midships, so I will do a tick strip exercise at the forward and rear bulkheads to gauge the taper requirements before completing the first planking layer.


 

 
B.E.

25/08/20