edbardet
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edbardet got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Rigging scissors
Another option i you have a medical type friend - suture scissors. They are sometimes discarded after one use. They have a little grove and curved tip that allows you to grasp the exact line.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from jchbeiner in Swan class 3D model in progress
Well - I guess the bar has just been raised
These results are really unbelievable. I definitely want a copy whenever it is available.
As an aside. I would pay a good deal for the .ble files as I think they would be of immense value to anyone, like moi, that is working with Blender for the first time. I would sign any non-copy, non-distribution clauses necessary.
Ed Bardet
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edbardet got a reaction from mtaylor in Shipybuilding Blender Model
Jagger
Thanks for the feedback. I want to concentrate on the boatyard and the tools - not a specific vessel, nor a specific yard. I am using the book as a starting point, so the time frame will be relatively limited to the 18th century and 19th century, centering on 1800I have obtained many digital tomes and have used them in the past. I was luck to find Dodds and Moore on line.Your statement about learning a tool, is spot on. The 'immediate feedback' is a key element.
Ed
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edbardet reacted to JohnMGray in Help with an article in Model Shipwright Magazine
Thanks Mark,
I've seen those. I've been doing a study and comparison of late 16th century through mid 19th century British and American ship design and building. I've been going through period manuscripts and monographs including sources from the likes of Baker (Fragments of Ancient English Shipwrightry), MSS Add. 4005 Part 12 (A Manuscript on Shipbuilding, Circa 1600, Copied by Newton), Bushnell, Sutherland, Deane, Murray, and Steel, just to name a few. I'm starting to translate some of their works into CAD (Rhino 6). As I go along I've been finding other modern papers on early wooden ship design and building, such as White, and have been just checking their interpretation and presentation. As I translate the early works to CAD I may end up documenting step by step instructions and releasing them to enthusiasts. If so, I hope to include the rules and methods of each early shipwright / era so people will understand both how and why. From there it's not too difficult (just time consuming) to translate the 2D plans to 3d with parametric CAD, and to fully frame and plank a ship. Then they'll have everything they need to build a wooden model if they choose.
John
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edbardet got a reaction from ccoyle in Suggestion for post titles
I'm just starting out with the 3D approach to modeling and as such look through posts for techniques.
It would be, I believe, a great service to the community if the authors would post, in their title, the software being used.
For example in one it was many pages later that a screen shot showed the software in a heading.
Just a suggestion
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from Matrim in Returning to the fray.
No problem-
If you are a 1"tall person and someone placed you in a completely finished POF model, you could 'walk-thru' it. I want to the same in a 3d ,model. Have the camera location move through the completed virtual model.
My bad - re blender - should have been capitalized. It is a graphics package similar to Cinema4D or any of the others, but Free.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from mtaylor in Returning to the fray.
No problem-
If you are a 1"tall person and someone placed you in a completely finished POF model, you could 'walk-thru' it. I want to the same in a 3d ,model. Have the camera location move through the completed virtual model.
My bad - re blender - should have been capitalized. It is a graphics package similar to Cinema4D or any of the others, but Free.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from mtaylor in Returning to the fray.
Cheers,
I'm Just returning to modelling after several years off.
I am 'forced' due to age, etc. to no longer build POF in wood so I am going 'Virtual'.
My model will start with scantlings taken from historical references and finish with a walk-thru 3-D model.
I'm looking at a working class boat 1700's era. Now looking at a collier.
Any reference recommendations as to using blender in this type of environment?
Should I develop my lines in cad (frames etc) or do it all in blender?
Should be a multi year project. I love the research necessary.
I've looked at several posts and this seems to be the most active forum around - great members.
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edbardet got a reaction from Matrim in Returning to the fray.
Cheers,
I'm Just returning to modelling after several years off.
I am 'forced' due to age, etc. to no longer build POF in wood so I am going 'Virtual'.
My model will start with scantlings taken from historical references and finish with a walk-thru 3-D model.
I'm looking at a working class boat 1700's era. Now looking at a collier.
Any reference recommendations as to using blender in this type of environment?
Should I develop my lines in cad (frames etc) or do it all in blender?
Should be a multi year project. I love the research necessary.
I've looked at several posts and this seems to be the most active forum around - great members.
-
edbardet got a reaction from thibaultron in Rigging scissors
Another option i you have a medical type friend - suture scissors. They are sometimes discarded after one use. They have a little grove and curved tip that allows you to grasp the exact line.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from mtaylor in Rigging scissors
Another option i you have a medical type friend - suture scissors. They are sometimes discarded after one use. They have a little grove and curved tip that allows you to grasp the exact line.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from augie in Water vs. Ammonia? - moved by moderator
Using water and ammonia may help.
Ammonia reacts with the lignin in wood, which is the adhesive material holding fibers together. After soaking the wood in a strong ammonia, bend it to the shape desired. As the ammonia evaporates the water in the air replaces it in the lignin and restores to original glue strength. This is smelly and some people do not like the smell.
In an industrial / commercial operation, wood is placed in a strong vacuum resistant chamber and the air withdrawn. This takes the moisture with it. Anhydrous ammonia is then introduced and allowed to penetrate. The wood is then bent and allowed to replace the ammonia with the water from the air.
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edbardet got a reaction from Jaxboat in Water vs. Ammonia? - moved by moderator
Using water and ammonia may help.
Ammonia reacts with the lignin in wood, which is the adhesive material holding fibers together. After soaking the wood in a strong ammonia, bend it to the shape desired. As the ammonia evaporates the water in the air replaces it in the lignin and restores to original glue strength. This is smelly and some people do not like the smell.
In an industrial / commercial operation, wood is placed in a strong vacuum resistant chamber and the air withdrawn. This takes the moisture with it. Anhydrous ammonia is then introduced and allowed to penetrate. The wood is then bent and allowed to replace the ammonia with the water from the air.
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edbardet got a reaction from lamarvalley in Water vs. Ammonia? - moved by moderator
Using water and ammonia may help.
Ammonia reacts with the lignin in wood, which is the adhesive material holding fibers together. After soaking the wood in a strong ammonia, bend it to the shape desired. As the ammonia evaporates the water in the air replaces it in the lignin and restores to original glue strength. This is smelly and some people do not like the smell.
In an industrial / commercial operation, wood is placed in a strong vacuum resistant chamber and the air withdrawn. This takes the moisture with it. Anhydrous ammonia is then introduced and allowed to penetrate. The wood is then bent and allowed to replace the ammonia with the water from the air.
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edbardet got a reaction from dgbot in Small hand saws
Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from shoule in Small hand saws
Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from Maury S in Small hand saws
Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from rtropp in Small hand saws
Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from WackoWolf in Small hand saws
Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from mtaylor in Small hand saws
Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from justsayrow in Small hand saws
Save your broken scroll saw blades and mount them upside down in the same handle you use for knives. That gives you a saw for confined spaces. The reverse mounting gives you better control.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from realworkingsailor in Name the Ship Game
Andy- That's what tugs are supposed to look like
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from themadchemist in Best place to buy scale wood?
Allanyed made a comment about milling your own wood that I would like to second. I believe that a saw and thickness sander, even a home made one, is a valuable addition to anyone's work shop. Milling your own wood seems to result in a lot of waste and it does take time. But I costed some out several years back and it ended up being in the vicinity of 25% savings on the list price, plus no postage.
There is one advantage to milling your own wood and that is utilization. Being able to thickness larger pieces allows greater flexibility in layout. I've used both wood from a big box store and billets from a local hardwood supplier.
I'm not speaking against buying dimensioned wood, but merely saying that milling your own should be considered.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from Ulises Victoria in Best place to buy scale wood?
Allanyed made a comment about milling your own wood that I would like to second. I believe that a saw and thickness sander, even a home made one, is a valuable addition to anyone's work shop. Milling your own wood seems to result in a lot of waste and it does take time. But I costed some out several years back and it ended up being in the vicinity of 25% savings on the list price, plus no postage.
There is one advantage to milling your own wood and that is utilization. Being able to thickness larger pieces allows greater flexibility in layout. I've used both wood from a big box store and billets from a local hardwood supplier.
I'm not speaking against buying dimensioned wood, but merely saying that milling your own should be considered.
Ed
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edbardet got a reaction from NMBROOK in Deptford Yard Circa 1774 (England )
Nigel-
I just ordered a copy of the book - should prove an excellent resource. I browsed it on line and the information about supplies, scantlings and labor will make good reading. I've exchanged a couple of e-mails with Julian Kingston who is director of the Lenox Project. Seems like a nice guy and is a witty writer.
Ed
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