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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    Eddie, I think a scroll saw is essential for this project in order to cut the frames/futtocks. I have a crappy-assed Dremel scroll saw that I used to cut the frames for the WASHINGTON (before I shelved it). It was okay,but not great. I have the MS RATTLESNAKE kit and plan to replace the basswood with hardwood...so I have given the question of 'which woods' some thought. I am a big fan of boxwood. I was going to use boxwood above the wales, with a natural finish on the 'yellow/buff' area and paint the black area black. In the pasted I have either used or experimented with ebony, ebony stain, black wood dye and black paint. I was not a fan of black paint until I started using the 'coachman method' Chuck P. talks about in either his CONFEDERACY or WINCHELSEA build log. When done right, it is exquisite. I love boxwood,however, based on some recent discussions,I might try Alaskan Cedar from Wood Projects Resources. For decks I usually use holly, but that is getting harder to come by. My next project may involve maple. You won't be planking much below the wale, but where you do, I would use holly or maple.
  2. Chuck Seiler
    Eddie, What is your experience level and what tools do you have? Both sources mentioned by Ken are great. They offer both sheets or strips. If you have a miniature table saw, sheets may be the way to go. That's what I do.
  3. Chuck Seiler
    There goes one now!!!! Model Expo/Model Shipways regularly has sales. Get on their mailing list and they will let you know when they are. Figure out what you want to do for your next project (or maybe the one after that). When it comes up on sale, go for it.
  4. Chuck Seiler
    Gus looks out of focus. I need another beer.
  5. Chuck Seiler
    Wait for the sale.
  6. Chuck Seiler
    Patrick, I recommend you replace your "Fear of Failure" with "Quest for Achievement". I guarantee you will screw things up, learn from them and move on. You can do like I do, screw things up and pull everything apart...they do it better the next time. I don't think I have built a model yet where I did not have the 'opportunity to improve my skills thru dynamic restructuring'. I have started the SULTANA myself, many years ago, and really like it. It is sitting in my garage getting ready for masting and rigging...one of these days. Go forth and achieve!
  7. Chuck Seiler
    To answer your first question...I dunno, I think wooden ship modeling (or ship modeling in general) is in the blood. Once you get bit, you can never really let it go. There always seems to be the lore to get back in and build another one better, or bigger, or more complex. It's in the blood and the only cure is scotch.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    Rossi, Where do you live? It sounds like you are looking to venture into the dark side; heavy kit bashing at (dare I say) scratch building. If there is a model club near you, I would recommending getting with them as well as interacting here. Sometimes face-to-face discussions and demos can be invaluable.
  9. Chuck Seiler
    I have a mental breakdown just LOOKING at them.
  10. Chuck Seiler
    Keep in mind that the wale(s) were structural members, not decoration or "fenders". In part, they acted like barrel hoops, tying the frames together and also as a strong point for deck clamps, knees, etc. In the 1600s, and prior (not sure of the dates) each frame futtock was secured to a wale rather than it's neighboring futtock. That is why the earlier vessels have so many wales.
  11. Chuck Seiler
    I own 3 or 4 dremels and I use the snot out of my cordless (with spare battery). Lie any other tool, it has its place. I agree with others that there are times when you DON'T want to use it because it can take too much wood off or offer too little control in making a hole, but I have also found I can now do much more detailed work with it than I could before. It was the ONLY power tool I had for years...until I got a Byrnes saw. I recommend getting the dremel 3 jaw chuck.
  12. Chuck Seiler
    Cab, What scale is the model?
  13. Chuck Seiler
    The Amati DRAKKER only has 9 frames. If he used those plans, he did a bunch of extrapolation.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    This appears to be a continuation of a previous build log (like it is page 2 or 3) but I see nothing previous. Am I missing something? What are you using for your bolts?
  15. Chuck Seiler
    A quick recommendation: Drill one or two small holes down thru the top of the stem and insert some reinforcing rods. I have seen some use brass, I used bamboo....after I broke it off. It is very fragile and prone to breakage.
  16. Chuck Seiler
    Is shaft diameter over 3.2MM (1/8") really problem if all you are using it for is miniature stuff?
  17. Chuck Seiler
    Mick, Why copper for the wale fasteners? Were they bolted in? Having worked with the PHILADELPHIA, I realize they did a lot of non-standard things. Wasn't sure if this was one of them.
  18. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, Check your IM.
  19. Chuck Seiler
    One technique I have seen/used, particularly when a compound curve is involved, is to soak the plank and clamp it to the hull until dry. I am tempted to use this method with a heat-gun, but am concerned with how it will affect the wood already in place. Will repeated heating damage the wood?
  20. Chuck Seiler
    We, in the Colonial navy, called it non-skid. I have used fine sand paper to simulate it.
  21. Chuck Seiler
  22. Chuck Seiler
    As the resident vexillologist, I visit the CRWFLAG/Flags of the World site quite often.
  23. Chuck Seiler
    Commissioning pennants are still in use today.
  24. Chuck Seiler
    Does anybody have any experience with TransTint wood dye? I have heard good things about it.
  25. Chuck Seiler
    If you are going to weather your treenails, you will need to weather the decks and every other thing on the model. You can't have new decks and old treenails.

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