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Chuck Seiler

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Cab, What scale is the model?
  2. The Amati DRAKKER only has 9 frames. If he used those plans, he did a bunch of extrapolation.
  3. This appears to be a continuation of a previous build log (like it is page 2 or 3) but I see nothing previous. Am I missing something? What are you using for your bolts?
  4. A quick recommendation: Drill one or two small holes down thru the top of the stem and insert some reinforcing rods. I have seen some use brass, I used bamboo....after I broke it off. It is very fragile and prone to breakage.
  5. Is shaft diameter over 3.2MM (1/8") really problem if all you are using it for is miniature stuff?
  6. Mick, Why copper for the wale fasteners? Were they bolted in? Having worked with the PHILADELPHIA, I realize they did a lot of non-standard things. Wasn't sure if this was one of them.
  7. One technique I have seen/used, particularly when a compound curve is involved, is to soak the plank and clamp it to the hull until dry. I am tempted to use this method with a heat-gun, but am concerned with how it will affect the wood already in place. Will repeated heating damage the wood?
  8. We, in the Colonial navy, called it non-skid. I have used fine sand paper to simulate it.
  9. As the resident vexillologist, I visit the CRWFLAG/Flags of the World site quite often.
  10. Commissioning pennants are still in use today.
  11. Does anybody have any experience with TransTint wood dye? I have heard good things about it.
  12. If you are going to weather your treenails, you will need to weather the decks and every other thing on the model. You can't have new decks and old treenails.
  13. In reference to Brian's (Gunther) post, .021= #75 size drill and .031= #68
  14. BCD, What model are you working on? Scale? Size, etc? What size drill bit did you use originally to drill your treenail holes?
  15. What size drill bit did you use? The item you are trying to duplicate is only an inch to 1.5 inches in diameter (scale) Remember, decks are not tree nailed. They are bolted. What you see is a plug used to protect the bolt heads from weather, etc. Plugs, like tree nails, will be subtle. Looking at your model from 3 feet away is like looking at the real ship from 20, 30 feet away. Subtle. If it were me, I would give the deck a good soaking with rubbing alcohol, rip up the deck and re-plank (sez a guy who just ripped off 4 weeks of hull planking to get it right.)
  16. Dave, I agree, in the end, go with the colour you as the builder like. (within reason....I would question the metal flake hot pink and iridescent green...but who am I?) Joel has echoed your thoughts on manufacturer vs difference in color. I think Chuck even mentioned that he used to use one brand, but they changed and the color is slightly different. Anywho, while I will continue to experiment, I have the answers I was looking for. For me, give that a shipyard of yore could mix a batch of paint one day that looks like one panel and then another batch a week later that looks like another panel leads me to a conclusion: Pick the hue I like best for the bulkheads. Pick another for the gun carriages and deck furniture. See if anybody can tel the diff...or if anybody cares. Thanks all.
  17. Carefully. One possible way would be to install some pre-painted 1/64" thick fillers.
  18. How does it compare to the hues in post 18?
  19. Oh yes, so he did...back in post #6. When he stated that he 'checked his kit' I was envisioning him opening the box that has been on his bedside cabinet for 10 years. I have some that have been sitting around AT LEAST that long. Just sayin'.
  20. Understood. What I am trying to determine is, which (if any) of the colors/hues I posted would be reasonably good for use on a model of a late 18th century Continental warship? ....or should I continue to experiment?
  21. Is it constructed or still in the box?
  22. True. I used the term acrylic red to differentiate between oil, acrylic or water color. There are a significant number of hues within the 'red' range based on what they were made with. These are further expanded with mixing and shading.
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