Chuck Seiler

My goal is to develop the skills so that one (or more) of the models I build will be on somebody's mantle in 100 years. The rate I am going, I might still be building it in 99 years, but.... Having said that, I get a lot of satisfaction learning, buying tools, upgrading my skills, buying tools and building the smaller models. As indicated in some of the above posts, working on and completing simpler models such as PHILADELPHIA, SULTAN, Sharpie Schooner, or dozens of others is quite rewarding and leads to more involvement. Working on, screwing up and stalling on the big guys like CONSTITUTION is frustrating and leads to leaving the hobby. True, there are some people that can do a bang-up job on a CONNY the first time out, but that is few and far between. As Dirty Harry says, a man has got to know his limitations. Definitely traipse on down to the CONNY and visit/join the model club there. A club is a valuable resource for information and inspiration. Say hello to Bob Riddoch for me. Hopefully you will also get to get involved in projects or public interaction like we do here in the San Diego guild. Go to the local/area/regional model shows and conferences. When I seem to be flagging, seeing what other people are doing really gets the juices flowing again. Check out the clubs section on this site. The NRG shindig is in San Diego this year. You are more than welcome to come, but if that is too far of a trek, it will be back on that OTHER side of the country next year (probably)...or at least closer to you (unless Kurt has plans for Hawaii). And remember...you can never have too many clamps.

There are several good build logs for PHILADELPHIA. Plus, you can visit the actual ship in the Smithsonian.

DOH!!!!! How about a video? Hold the wedding in San Diego? Change the date of the NRG Conference?

You will be giving the Painting Tech Session at the 2016 NRG Conference, correct? <plz plz plz>

I agree with Joel (jbshan) that it would be unlikley you would be able to see the plugs in the scale you are working. Gunther's photos show a wide range of contrast, but in scale you are only looking at from about an inch away. When looking at a 3/16 scale model from 3 feet away, you are looking from almost 200 scale feet away. For those of you going to the NRG Conference in San Diego in October, look at the deck of SURPRISE or CALIFORNIAN from the upper deck of BERKELEY to gt a better perspective.

Looks a bit large for a brig.

I normally go with holly with either "Natural" stain finish or wipe on poly. Recently I saw a model using beech for decking. It looked good...scale oak appearance. .

I think it is because they have a few moments to take in the entire model, whereas you have had hours to create, then agonize over that mistake (and the 3 mistakes you made trying to correct the one mistake). I look at my PHILADELPHIA model and look at the many rope coils. A casual observer would say "Wow! A lot of rope coils" and move on. I will look at it and remember how THAT coil took 3 tries to make. THAT coil replaced the one I made and somehow lost. THAT coil I accidentally glued to my finger.

Roger, Well said. You are EXPECTED to make mistakes on your first one, that's why is should be something like the Virginia Pilot Boat (or whatever is on sale). I have had several early models where I have essentially made twice. Build a part, throw it away, build it again. Build an assembly, tear it apart, build it again. The value is in the learning.

Mike, As an onlooker, I would second Cathead's opinion that scratchbuilding would be a good next step. I recommend FAR WEST. It is a simple Missouri River boat with alot of history.

I would not recommend this. I believe I would have been ill served if I had been forced to go into the kiddies pool until I learned how to swim when I first signed aboard. Being able to see the various levels of accomplishment helped highlight what I was getting into and let me know there were many like me. Meanwhile it also gave me a goal to strive for. Looking at the build logs of some of the more accomplished modelers helped me learn the terminology and gave me an appreciation for the quality that could be achieved. I was also able to take away little pieces of "how to do it". I may not be able to build a whole model like a master, but I can plank like one (that's my story and I'm sticking to it), or I can paint like one, or make thingamabobs like one. Throwing out a question while bobbing around in the main pool ensures that everybody sees it. If there was just a beginners section, the question might only be seen by other beginners and those veterans who might specifically be there to do some mentoring. I see nothing wrong with the way it is now. Just my 2 euro's worth.

Jud, I strongly disagree. I take Chris' original post for what it is, a warning. I provide the same warning anytime I speak to a perspective modeler, whether it be at a club meeting or at our Ship Modeling booth at the county fair. Most people don't realize how difficult building a wooden ship is and how many sub-skills need to be developed before you can do a bang up job on a complicated model. As seasoned modelers, we owe it to them to give them reasonable advice.

What kind of wood are you working with?

I am not sure if it is relevant to the discussion, but I wanted to point out that it is not the weight of the anchor which secures the ship. Rather, it is the flukes of the anchor digging into the seabed (or lakebed) that does the work. The cable is paid out to allow the anchor to lay almost horizontal...the design of the anchor does the rest. When the anchor is set, hauling the anchor in does not bring the anchor to the ship. It brings the ship to the anchor. Once the cable is up and down the flukes break free from the bottom and the anchor can be raised. Sailing or driving the ship to the anchor allows the cable to slacken and puts less strain on the cable.

I have used the Byrnes Saw for many years. I use the 90 tooth slitting blade almost exclusively. It gives a nice smooth cut for planking and fine cuts. I will occasionally use the 24 tooth for larger stock. I get my blades from Thurston Saw Blades out of Rhode Island (as recommended by Jim). Primarily the .030 thickness bit occasionally .040 or .020. http://thurstonmfg.com/

Nigel, When you printed the transom on clear plastic, did you print that from your computer or did you have it done professionally?

Steve, Howdy! I am currently working on keeping my head above water at work. So far so good, but the day ain't over yet. With that as a backdrop, I have set the WASHINGTON aside and have set me sights back on PROVIDENCE. I am hoping to have it 75% finished by the NRG Conference. The hook is set. You are an official model ship builder-one model complete, two in progress and at least one on the shelf.

SOS Model Shipways "ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP" is a better choice than a cutter. I don't know if they will sell you the rigging plans separately, but its worth a try.

Steve, I was trying to find the discussion by Chuck regarding his painting method. I thought it was inhis CONFEDERACY log, but I can no longer find that one. I see you were able to communicate with him regarding the primer issue. How did you like the look of the paint job? It is hard to tell from the photo, but it looks pretty good. As I recall, Chuck recommends a light sanding every 2 or 3 coats with very fine (800-1200 grit) sandpaper. Hopefully he will see this and chime in. Good luck with RATTLESNAKE..

For guidance on binnacles and how to build them, go to Chuck P.'s practicum for SULTANA on the Model Expo site. Practicum #3, pge 9. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2016CB/MS2016-Sultana-Practicum-03.pdf As far as rigging plan is concerned, I plan on using the rigging plan from the Armed Virginia Sloop.

The frigate CONFEDERACY has nothing to do with the Confederate States of America. It is named after the country formed under the Articles of Confederation, i.e. the United States. Build the model!

No airbrush, just the stuff right out of the can. I don't do much in the way of spray painting. The lower hull is pretty simple.

It depends on if you plan to paint it or not. If you plan to paint it all, don't bother with different wood. If you plan to go 'au naturale', at least in part, boxwood above the wale would look nice. The black parts can be painted, but I would recommend checking out Chuck P's painting technique in either his CONFEDERACY or WINCHELSEA...I forget. Basically, it is many (8 or10) coats of very thinned out acrylic paint. I have tried it with good results. Below the wale? That depends on how good you are at planking. For my PROVIDENCE, I was using holly below the wale with good results (until I stalled). However, that is after MANY attempts at properly planking below a wale. With my SULTANA, the planking did not go well and I used much wood filler to fix. No worries. Sand it down nice,spray paint. I used a cream colored paint...don't recall the color, but I will find it...(I don't like the stark white) and I think it look great. Maybe I will get off my butt, finish it and have it at the NRG Conference next year.

Great job! What's on tap next?

Steve, Congrats and well done!!!! It looks great. A case is a must.