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Chuck Seiler

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. There goes one now!!!! Model Expo/Model Shipways regularly has sales. Get on their mailing list and they will let you know when they are. Figure out what you want to do for your next project (or maybe the one after that). When it comes up on sale, go for it.
  2. Wait for the sale.
  3. Patrick, I recommend you replace your "Fear of Failure" with "Quest for Achievement". I guarantee you will screw things up, learn from them and move on. You can do like I do, screw things up and pull everything apart...they do it better the next time. I don't think I have built a model yet where I did not have the 'opportunity to improve my skills thru dynamic restructuring'. I have started the SULTANA myself, many years ago, and really like it. It is sitting in my garage getting ready for masting and rigging...one of these days. Go forth and achieve!
  4. To answer your first question...I dunno, I think wooden ship modeling (or ship modeling in general) is in the blood. Once you get bit, you can never really let it go. There always seems to be the lore to get back in and build another one better, or bigger, or more complex. It's in the blood and the only cure is scotch.
  5. Rossi, Where do you live? It sounds like you are looking to venture into the dark side; heavy kit bashing at (dare I say) scratch building. If there is a model club near you, I would recommending getting with them as well as interacting here. Sometimes face-to-face discussions and demos can be invaluable.
  6. I have a mental breakdown just LOOKING at them.
  7. Keep in mind that the wale(s) were structural members, not decoration or "fenders". In part, they acted like barrel hoops, tying the frames together and also as a strong point for deck clamps, knees, etc. In the 1600s, and prior (not sure of the dates) each frame futtock was secured to a wale rather than it's neighboring futtock. That is why the earlier vessels have so many wales.
  8. I own 3 or 4 dremels and I use the snot out of my cordless (with spare battery). Lie any other tool, it has its place. I agree with others that there are times when you DON'T want to use it because it can take too much wood off or offer too little control in making a hole, but I have also found I can now do much more detailed work with it than I could before. It was the ONLY power tool I had for years...until I got a Byrnes saw. I recommend getting the dremel 3 jaw chuck.
  9. Cab, What scale is the model?
  10. The Amati DRAKKER only has 9 frames. If he used those plans, he did a bunch of extrapolation.
  11. This appears to be a continuation of a previous build log (like it is page 2 or 3) but I see nothing previous. Am I missing something? What are you using for your bolts?
  12. A quick recommendation: Drill one or two small holes down thru the top of the stem and insert some reinforcing rods. I have seen some use brass, I used bamboo....after I broke it off. It is very fragile and prone to breakage.
  13. Is shaft diameter over 3.2MM (1/8") really problem if all you are using it for is miniature stuff?
  14. Mick, Why copper for the wale fasteners? Were they bolted in? Having worked with the PHILADELPHIA, I realize they did a lot of non-standard things. Wasn't sure if this was one of them.
  15. One technique I have seen/used, particularly when a compound curve is involved, is to soak the plank and clamp it to the hull until dry. I am tempted to use this method with a heat-gun, but am concerned with how it will affect the wood already in place. Will repeated heating damage the wood?
  16. We, in the Colonial navy, called it non-skid. I have used fine sand paper to simulate it.
  17. As the resident vexillologist, I visit the CRWFLAG/Flags of the World site quite often.
  18. Commissioning pennants are still in use today.
  19. Does anybody have any experience with TransTint wood dye? I have heard good things about it.
  20. If you are going to weather your treenails, you will need to weather the decks and every other thing on the model. You can't have new decks and old treenails.
  21. In reference to Brian's (Gunther) post, .021= #75 size drill and .031= #68
  22. BCD, What model are you working on? Scale? Size, etc? What size drill bit did you use originally to drill your treenail holes?
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