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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, I was trying to find the discussion by Chuck regarding his painting method. I thought it was inhis CONFEDERACY log, but I can no longer find that one. I see you were able to communicate with him regarding the primer issue. How did you like the look of the paint job? It is hard to tell from the photo, but it looks pretty good. As I recall, Chuck recommends a light sanding every 2 or 3 coats with very fine (800-1200 grit) sandpaper. Hopefully he will see this and chime in. Good luck with RATTLESNAKE..
  2. Chuck Seiler
    For guidance on binnacles and how to build them, go to Chuck P.'s practicum for SULTANA on the Model Expo site. Practicum #3, pge 9. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2016CB/MS2016-Sultana-Practicum-03.pdf As far as rigging plan is concerned, I plan on using the rigging plan from the Armed Virginia Sloop.
  3. Chuck Seiler
    The frigate CONFEDERACY has nothing to do with the Confederate States of America. It is named after the country formed under the Articles of Confederation, i.e. the United States. Build the model!
  4. Chuck Seiler
    No airbrush, just the stuff right out of the can. I don't do much in the way of spray painting. The lower hull is pretty simple.
  5. Chuck Seiler
    It depends on if you plan to paint it or not. If you plan to paint it all, don't bother with different wood. If you plan to go 'au naturale', at least in part, boxwood above the wale would look nice. The black parts can be painted, but I would recommend checking out Chuck P's painting technique in either his CONFEDERACY or WINCHELSEA...I forget. Basically, it is many (8 or10) coats of very thinned out acrylic paint. I have tried it with good results. Below the wale? That depends on how good you are at planking. For my PROVIDENCE, I was using holly below the wale with good results (until I stalled). However, that is after MANY attempts at properly planking below a wale. With my SULTANA, the planking did not go well and I used much wood filler to fix. No worries. Sand it down nice,spray paint. I used a cream colored paint...don't recall the color, but I will find it...(I don't like the stark white) and I think it look great. Maybe I will get off my butt, finish it and have it at the NRG Conference next year.
  6. Chuck Seiler
    Great job! What's on tap next?
  7. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, Congrats and well done!!!! It looks great. A case is a must.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    Aye, there's the rub (so to speak).
  9. Chuck Seiler
    You get better at managing it once you poked yourself in the eye or broke an important piece off. It get more interesting when you get to the more complicated masting and rigging plans. Go in to the various logs and see the correct order to rig the ship and (2) get some long tweezers.
  10. Chuck Seiler
    I am sure there are some folks here who have done it. I'm not one. I don't even transport myself on a plane if I can help it. Something about sardines.
  11. Chuck Seiler
    Outstanding!!! Maybe we can have that beer we never got around to having in 2007.
  12. Chuck Seiler
    That's not bad. I took me a little over a year to do my Philly 1, but that included some down time AND some pretty intense time (5+ hours a day, including 1 all nighter the day before I had to get it to the Fair). Burn out!!! You are over a year into the model and you are still working on it. CHECK. You are almost finished. CHECK You are still relatively sane (or at least no less so that when you started). CHECK Congratulations...you are an official certified (certifiable) ship modeler!!!! Seriously, though, you are doing great. I regret that I didn't stick with it and build at the same pace. Do you think you will be able to bring it to San Diego next year?
  13. Chuck Seiler
    S.O.S, I seem to remember a painting of PROV off-shore in the Caribbean with boats in the water. I will see if I can find it when I get home.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    Kurt and I will be driving pedi-cabs between the hotel and the Museum.
  15. Chuck Seiler
    $$$$$$$$$$ In doing research for the event, Mike Lonnecker (SDSMG Guildmaster/NRG Director) found the Wyndham costs/prices to be way high.
  16. Chuck Seiler
    DOH!!!!! That shows you how far I got with the kit.
  17. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, Looking great!!! Your starboard shrouds/ladder look real good. The close up shots are nice. It brings out the details. You have really done a great job. Forward rail: Did you bend it of cut it curved? I don't see the metal support wrap holding the mast to the crossbeam. Am I missing something or are you adding that later? Are you bringing this down to San Diego next year?
  18. Chuck Seiler
    While I did not attend the conference this year, I can speak from experience from previous NRGs and SMA conferences, the round table discussions alone are quite valuable. The downside is that you can't attend them all. Keep up the great work guys. I am looking forward to NRG San Diego next year.
  19. Chuck Seiler
    Now its time to start working on Next years Conference in San Diego . Get ready Chuck It will be Glorious!!!
  20. Chuck Seiler
    I am a big fan of not painting,but in this case I think some painting is needed. If you go with the basic basswood, golden oak is a good color for above the wales. Chuck P has had alot of success with that. Personally, I would go with boxwood for above the wales and holly for deck. I have a Byrnes Saw and regularly cut my planks. However, buying pre-cut 'lumber' is an option in this case. Generally, in my experience, planks above the wale don't require much in the way of spiling, so no fancy cutting is needed. What are your plans for coloring the wale (black)? In the past I have tried wood dye and india ink. I used the latter for my SULTANA with good result. For PROVIDENCE I am trying the method Chuck P and some others have mentioned-coachman style. (See his CONFEDERACY and/or WINCHELSEA build logs. Here, you use many (10 or so) very thin coats (watery) of paint with buffing in between coats. When done right, it is fantastic. I tried it on the transom of PROVIDENCE. Below the wale? One PROVIDENCE I am experimenting with holly, to simulate white stuff. Since many ships of this era seem to 'white stuff' below the wale rather than below the waterline, it is a bit easier. The downside is that you planking has to be perfect. Planking a ship like RATTLESNAKE is alot harder than PHILADELPHIA. For SULTANA, I planked the best I could, used wood filler to fill the imperfections, then painted using a cream colored spray paint. (I don't like stark white) Anywho, my thoughts. Looking thru the archives, there are alot of RS build logs. Once you start yours there will be plenty of folks who will tune in and provide input.
  21. Chuck Seiler
    I like the RATTLESNAKE a lot. Really nice lines. I have the kit, but Chuck said if I start any more build logs, he is going to.... well, it wouldn't be pretty. I would recommend it. There are enough people who HAVE started build logs on it that you would have plenty of help.
  22. Chuck Seiler
    Don, I too am working on the WASHINGTON. I plan to unveil my build log on 11 October. That date should have some significance to all you Washington and Philadelphia builders. I made the keel/hogging and rising wood from the same piece. Using my Byrnes Saw I cut a slot that I will eventually work into the rabbet. To determine where to make the cuts, I cut a section of the keel/rising wood from the plans and glued it to the piece using rubber cement. Normal glue causes it to stretch too much. Prior to this, I marked the cut points on to the wood using the section of the plan that is glued to the build board. This ensures that the paper glued to the keel lines up with the frame location on the build board. It took some doing, but I was able to do it. All this requires that you have enough copies of the plan. NEVER CUT UP YOUR ORIGINAL. I take my plans to a reprographics center which gives precise duplication. Places like Kinkos can be off a percentage or two. On some of my models that doesn't matter. Here it does. The downside is that they will not reproduce any copyrighted material unless you have permission. The upside is that NRG provides a permission letter. Once I have the plan affixed to the keel, I use my Byrnes Saw as a mill, much as Mick did. Chuck
  23. Chuck Seiler
    GG, Welcome aboard. I have followed a couple of Dr. Crisman's projects and actually had an opportunity to hear him speak at an SMA Conference many years ago. Maybe we can get him to speak at an upcoming NRG Conference. I am also enamored with riverboats...mostly the off-Mississippi versions of the Mississippi boats (like the Missouri boats). Currently there is an ongoing build of Steamboat Bertrand by Cathead that may be helpful to you.
  24. Chuck Seiler
    Charlie, Great work so far. When I started my SULTANA several years ago, I ran into similar issues. I determined that all the stuff you are doing was too much like work and opted to trash the solid hull and make it using the bread and butter method. Having learned a lot since then, I would do SOME things different, but not the overall plan. SULTANA makes a beautiful model and in my mind is a great starter (except for some of the solid hull issues). I need to pull mine out of storage and finish it up. Keep up the good work. I will look in from time to time.
  25. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, They come down to the top tree trestles ( I think that's what they are called. Since army guys built it, they are call "those thingies that stick out at the top of the fat pole".) I notched the ends and let them run free. From there, they are secured to the main shrouds at the futtock stave. On the starboard side, it is the top rung. On the port side it would be directly across....the only rung (watch out for that next step!!!) Gotta go. Dr. Who is on!

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