Chuck Seiler
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Don, I too am working on the WASHINGTON. I plan to unveil my build log on 11 October. That date should have some significance to all you Washington and Philadelphia builders. I made the keel/hogging and rising wood from the same piece. Using my Byrnes Saw I cut a slot that I will eventually work into the rabbet. To determine where to make the cuts, I cut a section of the keel/rising wood from the plans and glued it to the piece using rubber cement. Normal glue causes it to stretch too much. Prior to this, I marked the cut points on to the wood using the section of the plan that is glued to the build board. This ensures that the paper glued to the keel lines up with the frame location on the build board. It took some doing, but I was able to do it. All this requires that you have enough copies of the plan. NEVER CUT UP YOUR ORIGINAL. I take my plans to a reprographics center which gives precise duplication. Places like Kinkos can be off a percentage or two. On some of my models that doesn't matter. Here it does. The downside is that they will not reproduce any copyrighted material unless you have permission. The upside is that NRG provides a permission letter. Once I have the plan affixed to the keel, I use my Byrnes Saw as a mill, much as Mick did. Chuck- 504 replies
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GG, Welcome aboard. I have followed a couple of Dr. Crisman's projects and actually had an opportunity to hear him speak at an SMA Conference many years ago. Maybe we can get him to speak at an upcoming NRG Conference. I am also enamored with riverboats...mostly the off-Mississippi versions of the Mississippi boats (like the Missouri boats). Currently there is an ongoing build of Steamboat Bertrand by Cathead that may be helpful to you.
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Charlie, Great work so far. When I started my SULTANA several years ago, I ran into similar issues. I determined that all the stuff you are doing was too much like work and opted to trash the solid hull and make it using the bread and butter method. Having learned a lot since then, I would do SOME things different, but not the overall plan. SULTANA makes a beautiful model and in my mind is a great starter (except for some of the solid hull issues). I need to pull mine out of storage and finish it up. Keep up the good work. I will look in from time to time.
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Steve, They come down to the top tree trestles ( I think that's what they are called. Since army guys built it, they are call "those thingies that stick out at the top of the fat pole".) I notched the ends and let them run free. From there, they are secured to the main shrouds at the futtock stave. On the starboard side, it is the top rung. On the port side it would be directly across....the only rung (watch out for that next step!!!) Gotta go. Dr. Who is on!
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Aw maaaaaaaan. The model is at work. I'm going to have to look at the map...er, ah plans. I'll be right back.
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Steve, I'm not sure I understand the question. From your picture in post 235 it looks like your shrouds are already attached. The model is looking great!!! Next step....the awning assembly. Remember, it's not symmetric. It looks kind of cock-eyed...but that's what happens when army guys build boats...er, ahh...I mean....
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Mast and Spar replacements
Chuck Seiler replied to thomaslambo's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Crown has masting sets? Wow....ya learn something new every day. -
Carl, To expand what Mick said, the full frames consist of up to 9 different pieces; 5 on one face and 4 on the other. Those little short nibs at the end of the forward halves are killers! Kurt, C'mon. You move into management and suddenly you can't build a fully framed model? Pfffff!!!! What else are you doing?
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Thanks Mick. The one you are showing is transom piece 1. I was more interested in piece(s) 5. ...or are you still getting to that? Chuck
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Mick, I was looking at your previous posts and the part where you are working on piece 5 (wing transoms) caught my eye. At first it appeared you were going to alot of trouble to make a simple piece. As I looked closer, I noticed it was a compound curve...significantly so, it would seem. Hoping the plans and/or the monograph went into more detail, I consulted those. No luck. Am I just being thick, or is this a difficult piece? Could you go into a little more detail as to how you made it? Does anyone else have any input?.
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Steve, I would say the lift lines for the upper yard is smaller than the lower yard. This is based on the fact that the associated blocks for the lower yard is 7mm while the upper yard is only 5mm. I pegged my yards into place using small wooden (bamboo) pegs, about 1mm in diameter. Since your model is twice as big, you have a bit more leeway.
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When you say 'spar' do you mean 'yard'? I am looking at my PHILLY 1 right now and I cannot tell if the lifts for the upper yard are smaller than the lower. It appears so, but I need to wait until I check the plans to be sure. HOWEVER..... I would recommend you move the blocks for the upper lift lines further up the mast. From what I recall from the plans (and what I see from PHILLY 1) these blocks were too close to the yard. The whole set up didn't look right and in my opinion (as well as others) would not have allowed for proper lift of the yard. I think it should be 3/4" to an inch above where the yard is. Again, I will check my plans when I get home.
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Mick, What did you use to bolt your keel pieces together? Is that copper?
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You'll be scratch building next. Galley WASHINGTON is calling. <Steve...BUILD ME!!!, Build me!!!!>
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Jay, Thanks. I will have to do some experimentation.
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Have you been practicing your rope coils? One thing you will have to think about is at some point you will be building the canopy. Make sure your blocks, etc are either above or below the canopy line (as appropriate).
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Thanks Mick. I noticed the earlier post, but for some reason thought you had abandoned it for the Saw method. I have used the saw method before with success. I even 'milled' my PHILADELPHIA gun carriages using it. I look forward to your work on the frames.
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That's what it's all about. I see you cut the slots for the frames in the keel, but I didn't see that mentioned. Did you cut them the same way as the slots in the deadwood?
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How about mill bits like this?
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Jay, Many thanks. Start practicing, I guess.
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The situation I find myself in is that when I had more $$$ than experience, I purchased the Acra Plus mill along with the drill press option. Never used it. It has a wheel each for X and Y axis but a little crank knob for Z. This can be upgraded for a few dozen bucks. Now I am in a position where milling some joints and other things I cannot seem to do well with my other tools is looking like a viable option. Nothing fancy/nothing large. Going thru some of the old posts, I saw some comments from JPett. I was just curious if anyone else has experience with it. If I get good with it and find a need to go bigger (and live long enough), I will consider one of the larger ones,
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