Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Even when knowing where it look it can be a challenge to find. It's a pretty big log. or some reason I don't see post numbers anymore. Hopefully this will help you locate. Here is the start of the thread. -
Gary, As you are already following Dubz's (sp?) build log, I may not need to mention, but I will anyway. Before you start planking, take a look at his log laser down the road. He talks about how the markings on the bulkheads do not match the plans. The result was that he had to strip all the planking, remeasure and re-plank.
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Many thanks
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Clare, Who is GPM?
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For what it's worth, I am firmly in the #2 pencil camp. For me, solid black is not subtle enough. I have the privilege of belonging to a club with access to actual tall ships. I can go up on the Berkeley and look down on HMS SURPRISE and CALIFORNIAN and see how real caulking looks. Even so, scale distance is only 1.5 to 2 feet away. Mentally factoring in the effect of distance on color and I feel the old #2 represents it best.
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I'm looking for a good headlamp/ magnifier
Chuck Seiler replied to Derek C's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
OPTIVISOR is supposed to be pretty good. Quality plus changeable lenses. I have one, but I still prefer my cheapo Deluxe Lighted Headband Magnifier (see MicroMark) that the lights fell off years ago. -
I'll buy that.
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I am late to the discussion...please pardon my tardiness. I was a little involved in the discussion on pigments referenced by Wayne, so this interests me in terms of "what did they use and why". I see the phrase "...did not paint..." several times above. I hope that means they did not use color, but did in some other fashion treat the wood. I have seen untreated wooden buildings and structures and note how (relatively) rapidly they deteriorate. I can only guess at the impact an open ocean, salt water environment would have on raw wood. Would pinetar be used, as Duff suggests, or something else.
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Vossie, Thanks for the tip on the book. Finishing has been a weak area with me. In some cases I prefer to paint a piece before installing it to ensure a crisp paint line, or lack of over paint. Similarly, paint or stain a section before installing moulding. The issue has always been to seal or not seal. I have painted with some success using a method outlined by Chuck and others. However, I only paint small areas. I either stain or leave natural the bulk of the model. I usually avoid sanding sealer due to fear that it will screw up efforts to stain. Perhaps I should experiment.
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Harley, Welcome to the entryport to the dark side. It starts with substituting boxwood for basswood. Next you are kitbashing and soon scratch building. Sometime in the middle you will pop over to Jim Byrnes' place and get a miniature table saw so you can cut strips from sheets.
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Certainly Derek is from a different dimension where their week is the length of many months here on Earth. Great job! The use of the freises (freisi?) is perfectly acceptable. That' why they are included. I look forward to your progress.
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Hello i'm new here and to ship building
Chuck Seiler replied to Derek C's topic in New member Introductions
Derek, Welcome aboard! For what it's worth, I have been modeling for many years and I found the longboat quite challenging. Its simplicity is quite deceiving. Since you are working single layer planking that can be seen from both sides, your planking job must be PERFECT. Good luck and happy modeling!! -
HMS SUSSEX 1693 by 8sillones
Chuck Seiler replied to 8sillones's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Excellent work!!! I love the detail. That looks to be quite a large model. Is your decorative work painted or gold-leafed? -
Pirate ship
Chuck Seiler replied to JB3D's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I would go with the 6 pounders. Golden Hinde had them for a reason, and it wasn't because 'they couldn't afford 24 pounders'. That's a significant amount of topside weight and a significant amount of recoil when the guns are fired. There were ships quite a bit larger than GH that didn't have guns as big as 24#. -
I would think you would get an idea of the various rigging sizes from the plans provided in the kit. I believe from past discussion that newly tarred lines would be a dark brown, but they would get darker with age. You can use that as a guide...dark brown or brown with a little black added. I tied that awhile back and just made a muck of it. Now I just get the dark brown line from Syren Ship Model company (no affiliation...just the same first name).
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Bob, You paint the molding before you glue it into place, correct? That provides for a real sharp paint job without 'overspray' onto the planks above and below. Looking good!!
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How late in the 18th century and what nation? I have seen several paintings (see below...among others) where the ensign is flying from a staff in the stern. I had originally thought that was an error made by a landsman who never saw a ship underway and assumed since the saw the ensign flying there in port, it was there all the time. It made sense to me that the ensign would fly from the gaff as described by Tom in post 2. However, the more searching around I did, mostly on Revolutionary War ships, the more I found this phenomena.
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NO!!!! Do not plank the false deck first. Wait until the false deck, whether you use one piece or several, is securely in place BEFORE you plank.
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I'm not sure "most" do use full length planks. Looking at build logs, I see many new modelers using the full length planks on the double plank kits, but I see more seasoned modelers going the "scale length" route. Personally, I will use a full length plank at least once on either side, BUT will score it to make artificial butt ends. This gives me a good, continuous, even run along the entire length of the model and allows all the following strakes to set up properly.
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Dennis Bus by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - OcCre
Chuck Seiler replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Sure, why not. NRG is becoming a chapter of the International Plastic Model Society, with wooden models getting awards at IPMS shows. Why not wagons and vehicles. -
Never one to let an anthill go unmolested.... There are some that say the NIAGARA that was recovered and documented, and which all the models and replicas are based, is actually the QUEEN CHARLOTTE.
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How about Sepia ink? or Sepia mixed with a little basic brown?
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In theory, you use a frame template as a guide. The first layer of futtocks are placed...possibly glued to the paper. The second layer is added and a heavy flat object is placed on it to keep the assembly together and keep it flat. My experience is that when you place the heavy object, one or more of the top pieces can slide slightly, screwing up the frame. Unlike when building a frame blank (using the regular Hahn method), there is no room for error here. Good luck!!!!!
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