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Chuck Seiler

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Roger, Well said. You are EXPECTED to make mistakes on your first one, that's why is should be something like the Virginia Pilot Boat (or whatever is on sale). I have had several early models where I have essentially made twice. Build a part, throw it away, build it again. Build an assembly, tear it apart, build it again. The value is in the learning.
  2. Mike, As an onlooker, I would second Cathead's opinion that scratchbuilding would be a good next step. I recommend FAR WEST. It is a simple Missouri River boat with alot of history.
  3. I would not recommend this. I believe I would have been ill served if I had been forced to go into the kiddies pool until I learned how to swim when I first signed aboard. Being able to see the various levels of accomplishment helped highlight what I was getting into and let me know there were many like me. Meanwhile it also gave me a goal to strive for. Looking at the build logs of some of the more accomplished modelers helped me learn the terminology and gave me an appreciation for the quality that could be achieved. I was also able to take away little pieces of "how to do it". I may not be able to build a whole model like a master, but I can plank like one (that's my story and I'm sticking to it), or I can paint like one, or make thingamabobs like one. Throwing out a question while bobbing around in the main pool ensures that everybody sees it. If there was just a beginners section, the question might only be seen by other beginners and those veterans who might specifically be there to do some mentoring. I see nothing wrong with the way it is now. Just my 2 euro's worth.
  4. Jud, I strongly disagree. I take Chris' original post for what it is, a warning. I provide the same warning anytime I speak to a perspective modeler, whether it be at a club meeting or at our Ship Modeling booth at the county fair. Most people don't realize how difficult building a wooden ship is and how many sub-skills need to be developed before you can do a bang up job on a complicated model. As seasoned modelers, we owe it to them to give them reasonable advice.
  5. I am not sure if it is relevant to the discussion, but I wanted to point out that it is not the weight of the anchor which secures the ship. Rather, it is the flukes of the anchor digging into the seabed (or lakebed) that does the work. The cable is paid out to allow the anchor to lay almost horizontal...the design of the anchor does the rest. When the anchor is set, hauling the anchor in does not bring the anchor to the ship. It brings the ship to the anchor. Once the cable is up and down the flukes break free from the bottom and the anchor can be raised. Sailing or driving the ship to the anchor allows the cable to slacken and puts less strain on the cable.
  6. I have used the Byrnes Saw for many years. I use the 90 tooth slitting blade almost exclusively. It gives a nice smooth cut for planking and fine cuts. I will occasionally use the 24 tooth for larger stock. I get my blades from Thurston Saw Blades out of Rhode Island (as recommended by Jim). Primarily the .030 thickness bit occasionally .040 or .020. http://thurstonmfg.com/
  7. Nigel, When you printed the transom on clear plastic, did you print that from your computer or did you have it done professionally?
  8. Steve, Howdy! I am currently working on keeping my head above water at work. So far so good, but the day ain't over yet. With that as a backdrop, I have set the WASHINGTON aside and have set me sights back on PROVIDENCE. I am hoping to have it 75% finished by the NRG Conference. The hook is set. You are an official model ship builder-one model complete, two in progress and at least one on the shelf.
  9. SOS Model Shipways "ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP" is a better choice than a cutter. I don't know if they will sell you the rigging plans separately, but its worth a try.
  10. Steve, I was trying to find the discussion by Chuck regarding his painting method. I thought it was inhis CONFEDERACY log, but I can no longer find that one. I see you were able to communicate with him regarding the primer issue. How did you like the look of the paint job? It is hard to tell from the photo, but it looks pretty good. As I recall, Chuck recommends a light sanding every 2 or 3 coats with very fine (800-1200 grit) sandpaper. Hopefully he will see this and chime in. Good luck with RATTLESNAKE..
  11. For guidance on binnacles and how to build them, go to Chuck P.'s practicum for SULTANA on the Model Expo site. Practicum #3, pge 9. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2016CB/MS2016-Sultana-Practicum-03.pdf As far as rigging plan is concerned, I plan on using the rigging plan from the Armed Virginia Sloop.
  12. The frigate CONFEDERACY has nothing to do with the Confederate States of America. It is named after the country formed under the Articles of Confederation, i.e. the United States. Build the model!
  13. No airbrush, just the stuff right out of the can. I don't do much in the way of spray painting. The lower hull is pretty simple.
  14. It depends on if you plan to paint it or not. If you plan to paint it all, don't bother with different wood. If you plan to go 'au naturale', at least in part, boxwood above the wale would look nice. The black parts can be painted, but I would recommend checking out Chuck P's painting technique in either his CONFEDERACY or WINCHELSEA...I forget. Basically, it is many (8 or10) coats of very thinned out acrylic paint. I have tried it with good results. Below the wale? That depends on how good you are at planking. For my PROVIDENCE, I was using holly below the wale with good results (until I stalled). However, that is after MANY attempts at properly planking below a wale. With my SULTANA, the planking did not go well and I used much wood filler to fix. No worries. Sand it down nice,spray paint. I used a cream colored paint...don't recall the color, but I will find it...(I don't like the stark white) and I think it look great. Maybe I will get off my butt, finish it and have it at the NRG Conference next year.
  15. Steve, Congrats and well done!!!! It looks great. A case is a must.
  16. You get better at managing it once you poked yourself in the eye or broke an important piece off. It get more interesting when you get to the more complicated masting and rigging plans. Go in to the various logs and see the correct order to rig the ship and (2) get some long tweezers.
  17. I am sure there are some folks here who have done it. I'm not one. I don't even transport myself on a plane if I can help it. Something about sardines.
  18. Outstanding!!! Maybe we can have that beer we never got around to having in 2007.
  19. That's not bad. I took me a little over a year to do my Philly 1, but that included some down time AND some pretty intense time (5+ hours a day, including 1 all nighter the day before I had to get it to the Fair). Burn out!!! You are over a year into the model and you are still working on it. CHECK. You are almost finished. CHECK You are still relatively sane (or at least no less so that when you started). CHECK Congratulations...you are an official certified (certifiable) ship modeler!!!! Seriously, though, you are doing great. I regret that I didn't stick with it and build at the same pace. Do you think you will be able to bring it to San Diego next year?
  20. S.O.S, I seem to remember a painting of PROV off-shore in the Caribbean with boats in the water. I will see if I can find it when I get home.
  21. Kurt and I will be driving pedi-cabs between the hotel and the Museum.
  22. $$$$$$$$$$ In doing research for the event, Mike Lonnecker (SDSMG Guildmaster/NRG Director) found the Wyndham costs/prices to be way high.
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