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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    Aye, there's the rub (so to speak).
  2. Chuck Seiler
    You get better at managing it once you poked yourself in the eye or broke an important piece off. It get more interesting when you get to the more complicated masting and rigging plans. Go in to the various logs and see the correct order to rig the ship and (2) get some long tweezers.
  3. Chuck Seiler
    I am sure there are some folks here who have done it. I'm not one. I don't even transport myself on a plane if I can help it. Something about sardines.
  4. Chuck Seiler
    Outstanding!!! Maybe we can have that beer we never got around to having in 2007.
  5. Chuck Seiler
    That's not bad. I took me a little over a year to do my Philly 1, but that included some down time AND some pretty intense time (5+ hours a day, including 1 all nighter the day before I had to get it to the Fair). Burn out!!! You are over a year into the model and you are still working on it. CHECK. You are almost finished. CHECK You are still relatively sane (or at least no less so that when you started). CHECK Congratulations...you are an official certified (certifiable) ship modeler!!!! Seriously, though, you are doing great. I regret that I didn't stick with it and build at the same pace. Do you think you will be able to bring it to San Diego next year?
  6. Chuck Seiler
    S.O.S, I seem to remember a painting of PROV off-shore in the Caribbean with boats in the water. I will see if I can find it when I get home.
  7. Chuck Seiler
    Kurt and I will be driving pedi-cabs between the hotel and the Museum.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    $$$$$$$$$$ In doing research for the event, Mike Lonnecker (SDSMG Guildmaster/NRG Director) found the Wyndham costs/prices to be way high.
  9. Chuck Seiler
    DOH!!!!! That shows you how far I got with the kit.
  10. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, Looking great!!! Your starboard shrouds/ladder look real good. The close up shots are nice. It brings out the details. You have really done a great job. Forward rail: Did you bend it of cut it curved? I don't see the metal support wrap holding the mast to the crossbeam. Am I missing something or are you adding that later? Are you bringing this down to San Diego next year?
  11. Chuck Seiler
    While I did not attend the conference this year, I can speak from experience from previous NRGs and SMA conferences, the round table discussions alone are quite valuable. The downside is that you can't attend them all. Keep up the great work guys. I am looking forward to NRG San Diego next year.
  12. Chuck Seiler
    Now its time to start working on Next years Conference in San Diego . Get ready Chuck It will be Glorious!!!
  13. Chuck Seiler
    I am a big fan of not painting,but in this case I think some painting is needed. If you go with the basic basswood, golden oak is a good color for above the wales. Chuck P has had alot of success with that. Personally, I would go with boxwood for above the wales and holly for deck. I have a Byrnes Saw and regularly cut my planks. However, buying pre-cut 'lumber' is an option in this case. Generally, in my experience, planks above the wale don't require much in the way of spiling, so no fancy cutting is needed. What are your plans for coloring the wale (black)? In the past I have tried wood dye and india ink. I used the latter for my SULTANA with good result. For PROVIDENCE I am trying the method Chuck P and some others have mentioned-coachman style. (See his CONFEDERACY and/or WINCHELSEA build logs. Here, you use many (10 or so) very thin coats (watery) of paint with buffing in between coats. When done right, it is fantastic. I tried it on the transom of PROVIDENCE. Below the wale? One PROVIDENCE I am experimenting with holly, to simulate white stuff. Since many ships of this era seem to 'white stuff' below the wale rather than below the waterline, it is a bit easier. The downside is that you planking has to be perfect. Planking a ship like RATTLESNAKE is alot harder than PHILADELPHIA. For SULTANA, I planked the best I could, used wood filler to fill the imperfections, then painted using a cream colored spray paint. (I don't like stark white) Anywho, my thoughts. Looking thru the archives, there are alot of RS build logs. Once you start yours there will be plenty of folks who will tune in and provide input.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    I like the RATTLESNAKE a lot. Really nice lines. I have the kit, but Chuck said if I start any more build logs, he is going to.... well, it wouldn't be pretty. I would recommend it. There are enough people who HAVE started build logs on it that you would have plenty of help.
  15. Chuck Seiler
    Don, I too am working on the WASHINGTON. I plan to unveil my build log on 11 October. That date should have some significance to all you Washington and Philadelphia builders. I made the keel/hogging and rising wood from the same piece. Using my Byrnes Saw I cut a slot that I will eventually work into the rabbet. To determine where to make the cuts, I cut a section of the keel/rising wood from the plans and glued it to the piece using rubber cement. Normal glue causes it to stretch too much. Prior to this, I marked the cut points on to the wood using the section of the plan that is glued to the build board. This ensures that the paper glued to the keel lines up with the frame location on the build board. It took some doing, but I was able to do it. All this requires that you have enough copies of the plan. NEVER CUT UP YOUR ORIGINAL. I take my plans to a reprographics center which gives precise duplication. Places like Kinkos can be off a percentage or two. On some of my models that doesn't matter. Here it does. The downside is that they will not reproduce any copyrighted material unless you have permission. The upside is that NRG provides a permission letter. Once I have the plan affixed to the keel, I use my Byrnes Saw as a mill, much as Mick did. Chuck
  16. Chuck Seiler
    GG, Welcome aboard. I have followed a couple of Dr. Crisman's projects and actually had an opportunity to hear him speak at an SMA Conference many years ago. Maybe we can get him to speak at an upcoming NRG Conference. I am also enamored with riverboats...mostly the off-Mississippi versions of the Mississippi boats (like the Missouri boats). Currently there is an ongoing build of Steamboat Bertrand by Cathead that may be helpful to you.
  17. Chuck Seiler
    Charlie, Great work so far. When I started my SULTANA several years ago, I ran into similar issues. I determined that all the stuff you are doing was too much like work and opted to trash the solid hull and make it using the bread and butter method. Having learned a lot since then, I would do SOME things different, but not the overall plan. SULTANA makes a beautiful model and in my mind is a great starter (except for some of the solid hull issues). I need to pull mine out of storage and finish it up. Keep up the good work. I will look in from time to time.
  18. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, They come down to the top tree trestles ( I think that's what they are called. Since army guys built it, they are call "those thingies that stick out at the top of the fat pole".) I notched the ends and let them run free. From there, they are secured to the main shrouds at the futtock stave. On the starboard side, it is the top rung. On the port side it would be directly across....the only rung (watch out for that next step!!!) Gotta go. Dr. Who is on!
  19. Chuck Seiler
    Aw maaaaaaaan. The model is at work. I'm going to have to look at the map...er, ah plans. I'll be right back.
  20. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, I'm not sure I understand the question. From your picture in post 235 it looks like your shrouds are already attached. The model is looking great!!! Next step....the awning assembly. Remember, it's not symmetric. It looks kind of cock-eyed...but that's what happens when army guys build boats...er, ahh...I mean....
  21. Chuck Seiler
    Crown has masting sets? Wow....ya learn something new every day.
  22. Chuck Seiler
    Carl, To expand what Mick said, the full frames consist of up to 9 different pieces; 5 on one face and 4 on the other. Those little short nibs at the end of the forward halves are killers! Kurt, C'mon. You move into management and suddenly you can't build a fully framed model? Pfffff!!!! What else are you doing?
  23. Chuck Seiler
    Thanks Mick. The one you are showing is transom piece 1. I was more interested in piece(s) 5. ...or are you still getting to that? Chuck
  24. Chuck Seiler
    Mick, I was looking at your previous posts and the part where you are working on piece 5 (wing transoms) caught my eye. At first it appeared you were going to alot of trouble to make a simple piece. As I looked closer, I noticed it was a compound curve...significantly so, it would seem. Hoping the plans and/or the monograph went into more detail, I consulted those. No luck. Am I just being thick, or is this a difficult piece? Could you go into a little more detail as to how you made it? Does anyone else have any input?.
  25. Chuck Seiler

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