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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    I'm only ahead because I started 6 months before you did. Your progress is impressive.
  2. Chuck Seiler
    Bob, What is that green stuff? Moss? Now we know which side is north. HK is looking great. Will you be showing it at Mystic? CHuck
  3. Chuck Seiler
    SOS, Looking good! Looking familiar. I say take the scribed deck and use it as a fly swatter. Get some good holly from Crown Timberyard (or vender of your choice) and individually plank the deck. I use the pencil caulking method myself. I have used MINWAX Sanding Sealer to do what you are planning. I can speak to that, but not with the items you are using. Using the MINWAX SS I was able to glue to the sealed wood, but I always like to peg the item in using a small bamboo treenail, for strength. I like bamboo because I can get it down to 1MM and still have strength. Other wood I have used falls apart by then. CHuck PS. I plan to launch my PROV build log this weekend. ...then there will be 2.
  4. Chuck Seiler
    One possibility. They knew they might end up fighting as they did-anchored with one side facing the enemy. That way they could bring more of the heavier guns to bear. They would have to shift ballast to do so, but it may be worth the effort.
  5. Chuck Seiler
    Check out the grating kits offered by Chuck P's SYREN Ship Modeling Company. I have made my own in the past, but just finished up one of these. Very nice!
  6. Chuck Seiler
    I believe it is "AFT PERPENDICULAR". I you look on the other side of the body plan,the forward most frame is marked FP. I believe that to be "FORWARD PERPENDICULAR". I like your idea of building the lower portion of the hull bread and butter while building the upper part in such a manner as to allow for hatches and ladders. I did something similar on my SULTANA.
  7. Chuck Seiler
    Bob, Looks pretty good. One flaw I see is that you don't have the butt ends trunneled. Since they necessarily fall on a frame, they should be trunneled. I prefer using 2 nails on the ends and one everywhere else (see attached). This protocol would vary from time period to time period and nation. People smarter than I can tell you more on nailing patterns.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    It gets more interesting when you have a real live ship to look at.
  9. Chuck Seiler
    Bob, The deck planking looks good. Some might say it is unrealistic because you don't have any butt-ends in your planking. In truth, there are none. If you look at the replica SULTANA, there are no butt ends on deck. Th eplanks are short enough that they can go single plank per strake. Do you have any pics of the hull planking?
  10. Chuck Seiler
    SOS, A 1 page sail plan was in the book.
  11. Chuck Seiler
    I couldn't read the station numbers, so I just numbered them 1 thru 16. I was a bit dismayed when I only found 15 stations on the body plan. ...until I realized that #9 and #10 were (virtually) identical.
  12. Chuck Seiler
    SOS, You have stumbled upon a subject close to my heart. I am currently building the self-same PROVIDENCE from the same plans. I hope you will allow me to post my stuff...I have not started my build log yet. If you object, I will delete. I am using the same plans as you have, except I got them from the book "Valor Fore and Aft". I attempted to get permission to reproduce the plans, but there seems to be nobody left around to approve same. I scanned the plans in the book and took them to get blown up to the proper scale. I am building in 3/16" scale. The resulting plans are not that great. Some portions of the lines are missing or too light. Some lines are thicker than I would like. No worries. The sheer plan was used to make the center false keel/center support, while the body plan stations were used to make the bulkheads. I have previously tried to make these using modeling plywood, but it turned out to be a disaster. I ended up using basswood and cherry to laminate together a two ply bulkhead that is turning out to be quite strong. Here are the bulkheads being placed. The hull frames out. Planking started. ...and the transom. I am using this painting as inspiration. Once I get the hull completed, and the deck arrangements made, I will use the plans from Model Expo ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP to fit out and set up masts and rigging.
  13. Chuck Seiler
    Bob, SULTANA is a great model. It is sufficiently basic so as not to bog you down, but includes all the stuff you will eventually have to learn; planking, rigging, swearing and throwing things. I don't recall if Chuck's practicum discusses planking the hull, I believe it does, I know the original kit instructions do not. I would strongly recommend planking the wale (the thick planking right around the waterline) and above the wale. This part is a lot easier than the area below the wale and makes for a very nice model. I did this while leaving the area below unplanked but painted a cream white color. I am very happy with it. You can't go wrong following Chuck's practicum. I think you will enjoy the build.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    Sam, There were several PHILLY builds going at the same time. Sometimes the discussions shifted from one to another. I believe I discussed both books in my log. I also covered them as well as "Benedict Arnold's Navy" in my scratch PHILLY build log. All excellent resources.
  15. Chuck Seiler
    Dr. Clay Feldman is a master modeler in his own right and former owner/publisher of Ships in Scale. He has done work/research on Fair American as well. He has done extensive research into LEXINGTON. He has discussed the Davis model and why it is not correct. Several years ago (maybe 10, by now) when he first came out with the LEXINGTON model, he had an online information about the building...it was a group project. I believe most of that info is included in the Feldman package on LEX available from SiS. If you are interested in LEX, it is a must.
  16. Chuck Seiler
    Ken, What did you use to letter your transom?
  17. Chuck Seiler
    Be sure to clean it up afterwards...a little wire brushing...some time in a vinegar bath.
  18. Chuck Seiler
    I'd be happy to take the credit, but they are actually Sam's guns.
  19. Chuck Seiler
    I agree with those above that do the pencil method. For me, it provides a hint of color but is subtle. Living in San Diego I have the opportunity to see caulked deck planks on real sailing ships. Even at the distance I can get above them, which is about 6 or 8 scale inches, the caulking is not overwhelmingly dark.
  20. Chuck Seiler
    Nenad, I disagree. If you have the opportunity to display it where people will see it, at least ONE other person will see it and say "Holy cow!!! Will you look at that!!!!" ...and that makes it doubly worthwhile, because that person will talk about it for years. "....I remember one time, I was looking at a ship model. The guy made actual working sheeves THIS SMALL."
  21. Chuck Seiler
    Sam, Your swivel guns look great. I particularly like the brackets. Is that thingamajig in picture 3 the jig for making them? If you are a mind, I would be willing to send a few bucks in your general direction to purchase some of those guns. I will PM you on this.
  22. Chuck Seiler
    You can't go wrong with white. That was the common color on the Mississippi and Missouri.
  23. Chuck Seiler
    There is hope for us all!!!
  24. Chuck Seiler
    Personally, I am a 'red snob'. I seldom like the red most people use...too bright in my opinion. I like the barn red or caboose red type color for internal bulwarks and appropriate deck furniture. I am currently experimenting with artist acrylics. Using "Windsor and Newton Galleria" paint, I mixed a large gob of crimson red and a wee dot of Mars Black...and alot of water. I am going for the consistency of olive oil for right now. I think I have the color I want. The secret (if, in fact, this works) is to start off with the gob or red and add VERY LITTLE dots of black until you get what you want...or what I want. Now, I will do a test paint to see what it looks like dry, on wood.
  25. Chuck Seiler
    Speaking of Kurt....his article in the recent Ships in Scale is terrific. Excellent pics.

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