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Moonbug

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Everything posted by Moonbug

  1. Not sure how many Pocher fans are out there, but I ordered this 1/4 scale Ducati abut a year ago. I put it together a month or so ago. First production run so a few errors on the instructions, etc - but all in all pretty sweet. The box gives you an idea of the size of the thing.
  2. I wanted to post a short update since it's been almost a week. Last week I had laser eye surgery, so time in the hobby room has been limited. The surgery went fabulous; a little weird having to wear reading glasses to do the work as I'm using being able to see up close and that's it. Anyway - the big thing is not being able to get dust or anything in your eyes for a week or so; not conducive to woodwork... In the interim, I have been able to do some second layer planking - taking it very slowly. I'll have a more detailed post on second layer planking forthcoming. But I also took the opportunity to do a little bit of inventory of wood and some general tidying up in the hobby room. Thought it might be interesting to see the cave.
  3. Thanks Drux for digging up the resource. Given a peripheral discussion in another forum, I'm pretty tempted to chastise you and sulk for providing me with information that differs from my expectation - but I'll resist. 😆
  4. Welcome aboard Smokey - my guess is; if you can't find it here, you'll at least find where to find it.
  5. Hello all - I've rooted around a bit in both my books and here and I think I've got a decent idea of what I'd like to do for the binnacle on Peg. My question is this - When and in what cases did the vent start to appear on binnacles to account for the lamp? Was this more regional than dated?
  6. Thanks for the comments gents. And thanks for the info BE - I already have a micro burner and some pretty decent setups for "holding" small parts in pace. Here I was trying to use a traditional soldering iron and roll of solder. I'll definitely order some tube style soldering and give it some practice! I've got a handful of swivel guns to create coming up - so this will be very helpful.
  7. Here are the post sanding picks. I know this borders on sacrilege to the purists out there... but I gave it a first pass using my really cool Dremel/rotary tool extension and a 60 grit tip on slow speed. The extension allows you to hold it like a pencil and really lightly and specifically cover areas. After I evened out the hull in general terms, I gave it more traditional sanding with 150, 220, 400, and 600 grit. There are a few slight gaps that I filled in with glue/sawdust (which is why they show up a little darker) or "Wonderfill". Next steps are to carve out a new rabbet line for the second planking layer, then I'm going to draw out the planking plans with pencil onto the light wood so I can scale out the necessary tapering and (possibly) stealers.
  8. Good morning @BobG, Thanks for the comments. My soldering iron is a K-Tronic 3020. I do like it quite a bit. Honestly - I didn't put too much effort into research, I just looked for a reasonably priced model, but a variable temperature was a must. It heats up quickly and works well - so I'm pleased.
  9. Hey Mark - as someone who struggles with planking, I still admire your work here. Also understanding we are rightfully our own strictest critics.
  10. Meanwhile, the planking has progressed pretty nicely. As I mentioned before, I've decided to go with stealers so that I can just use the planks from the kit rather than cut wider ones for the stern. Honestly, I'm not that confident in my ability to get them perfectly straight along the length of the hull and don't want too many gaps to fill. Here's my exercise in stealers at the stern - cutting card stock to measure and use as a template, then fill in the plank. Meanwhile, this little plank that meets the transom and the stern post is pretty tricky. It took me several tries to get the card stock measured, then another couple of tries to translate it to wood. From there it was filling in the hull from the keel and the gun ports. Of course by the time I got to the middle my measurements were off and I needed a couple more stealers. Despite not having a completely cleanly planked hull, I'm pretty happy with way it turned out. This is all pre-sanding of course, and I'll also need to thin out the area near the keel and stern to create a new beard line and rabbet.
  11. When I put together the ship stove I added a temporary vent that is removable. The actual vent needs to be measured and inserted through the quarterdeck into the stove after assembly. The realistic vent caused me quite a bit of consternation in determining exactly how to make it happen. It's a very visible piece, so needs to be a good representation. I'm not particularly adept at silver soldering, but that was pretty much the only way to go here. There really isn't any kind of glue that works well for small metal bits - and JB weld or other epoxy is just super messy. At any rate, I cut a small brass tube at a 45 degree angle, then reassembled it 'backward' to create a 90 degree vent. This took me a few tries before I got it right, and got it to stick. Each time I tried to either sand down the newly soldered vent parts or cut the vent to size, it would break off and I'd have to start again. The vent cover was a really tricky little bit. I drilled to small holes into a circular piece of brass and used cut off straight pins as mounts. After measuring to the quarterdeck I sized out the brass vent, then blackened it (which only partially worked). I ended up having to give it a light coat of matte black paint, then the same metalizer as used on the stove.
  12. Hey @SpyGlass - you’re 100% correct. My intention is to lay this layer out as a practicum illustrating number of planks and methodology - then I’ll create second rabbet line and thin it down for the second layer. A bit of extra work, but will help me plan out my second layer. I’ll also be able to thin it down the exact amount of thickness based on the second layer planks. (It makes sense in my head). 😛
  13. Thanks everyone for your feedback and likes. I've been plugging away slowly at planking. One or two strips from the keel, one or two strips from the bulkhead - measuring each where it needs to be spiled or tapered then letting it dry in place before it's glued. Still working on some deck fixtures while the planking goes on, some more cistern updates are one the way soon. I'm trying to keep the stealers consistent and not random; using a card to measure - making sure that they don't end in a point and are not randomly placed.
  14. Other than your nice build work - I've always also enjoyed your innovation when it comes to make-shift tools. Always a great source of ideas B.E.
  15. Meanwhile, while in between planking and waiting for planks to soak and then waiting for planks to dry - I've continued to work on the lower deck fittings. I started on the pumps. Now... I think it's safe to say that the Cistern that comes with the Peg kit leaves something to be desired in terms of appearance... So - back to the FFM reference to get some inspiration for the pump. I measured out the amount of space that we have between the mast and the grate and it's limited at best. Not much room to play with there. I started with my leftover boxwood strips to frame out the basic boxes. I added some framing and feet, leaving a little extra space in the front of the pump for the doorway that opens up for the pump dale. Once again - in addition to the FFM, Dan's Vulture build served as a great reference for these details. This angle doesn't show it, but I failed in the "measure twice, cut once" lesson this time around and the pumps were just a smidge (a mm and a half) two wide to fit between everything. Fortunately I was able to solve this problem by sanding all sides of the pumps thinner - giving me just enough room if I notched out the inside legs of the pump to make room for the mast partner. I cheated a little bit on the cistern hoods - and instead of making them hollowed out, I piled the boxwood strips to create the right amount of depth, then used a compass to create a rounded template. From there it was a matter of sanding them down. As an additional touch I cut off the ends of a 2mm dowel to simulate the pump tubes that run through the deck. There is much more to do with the Cisterns. The pillars need to be crafted and I'm still noodling through how to do the pump cranks. Honestly, I'm not great at soldering this kind of thing. I can solder the heck out of wiring (I'm completely rewired my Camaro by hand), but silver soldering often leaves me frustrated.
  16. I'm continuing to chip away at the planking nice and slow - following the tutorials and pdfs. As I said, I'm going to add stealers a little later as I go with this first layer. I'm trying really hard to not let the fact that it's double planked give me an excuse to take too many shortcuts on the first planking. Not only because I'm obviously trying to avoid the "filler & sanding" pitfalls that make the second layer sketchy, but because it's giving me good practice for the second layer. I practiced some spiling by soaking the plank then holding it in place with clamps on my desk. But then I decided to use that practice plank as a jig for some forthcoming planks. I can adjust the severity of the curve by adjusting where I place the plank holders. The exercise proved fruitful and I got the first plank below the canon ports in place. I originally just tried to get it in place without spiling, but it turned out funky so I pulled it off and did it again.
  17. Hey Mike - I just visited Chuck's place for a few cannons and he has quite a few new goodies since I'd been there last. The lantern (which I got for my Pegasus as well) is pretty sweet. The down side of course is that the more I look around the more it ends up becoming pretty easy to fund Chuck's Roth IRA. 😛 Really nice work on this Fly Tim - I concur with the others, this is impressive on its own, but especially as a first model.
  18. Here's a bit of my experience when I made the shift from plastic modeling kits to wood. I had build the revel Constitution and a couple of other three mast ships in plastic, so when I made the shift to wood I went with something that looked "cool" - the San Juan Nepomuceno. Ooof. Steep learning curve to be sure, and of course made a lot of mistakes. My advice is to pick up something relatively inexpensive, so that when you DO make mistakes (which is inevitable) it's not a huge deal. For me, I spent a fair amount so not 'getting it right' made me feel a little guilty. Since then, I've also built the Swift twice - which I see as a great little ship that lends itself to practice when it comes to planking but also with enough rigging and deck fixtures to get the hang of it. Just my two cents.
  19. Don’t get too discouraged Bruce, that’s a super challenging and delicate part of the build.
  20. Even though it's going to be nearly impossible to see, I too (like almost everyone else) wanted to do justice to the Ship's Stove. I took the plans from Antcherl and also inspiration from the various interpretations by Blue Ensign, Dan Vadas, and others. I began by carving out and putting together the basic frame of the oven, then I needed to measure it's scale on the deck. The stove barely fits between the bottom and quarter deck with the vent/chimney sticking through the upper deck. In order to accomplish this measurement, I had to go ahead and trim the bulwarks so the upper deck would lay flat. The Victory kit has these little notches that stick up through the quarterdeck. It's a no-brainer that they have to go. Not just for this reason, but because they inhibit proper planking of the decks. Once I had the basic size and shape figured out, I started adding the small elements of the stove like the side doors & hinges and the grates. I dove into my little trove of miscellaneous little scraps and cut and shaped brass strips left over from other builds - mostly the Stagecoach I built the Admiral. Some other parts I used were old stanchions and port lid hinges. There are a couple of really specific pieces for the stove - the grate and also the hooks that hold the rotisserie bit on the front of the stove. This is where it's really handy to have built other ships - especially, in this case, Chuck's USF Confederacy. Not only is the Confederacy also a 1/64 scale, but there were a plethora of extra laser cut pieces. So I looked through my handy stash of extra bits and found just what I needed. I drilled some holes and used wire pins to represent the bolts. This was a solid three days worth of work in between setting planks on the hull to dry to shape. After it was put together, I hit the stove with a layer of flat black, then a soft brushed coat of this super cool metal-izer that I use on my WWII plane models. For the final product, I added the brass rails and the little skewer.
  21. Ok - Lest you think I'm not actually going to plank the Peg - these next few photos show that I have indeed actually started planking her. After a good two hours of re-reading tutorials and watching Chuck's videos, I finally plunged in. As you can see, I've got the tutorial and measurements all laid out so I can go by the book. I measured out the plank sizes and divided the hull into four sections. I used some old pin-striping tape to mark. Then, lo and behold I actually laid the garboard strake. More to come on planking of course, but I'm taking it very slow. I've also decided with the first layer of planking I'm going to go with stealers - especially since I'm not cutting my own plank sizes, but using the kit wood. Incidentally, this is also the first time I purchased and used the little screw in plank holders from Micro-Mark. I saw them on Dan Vadas' builds, and I've gotta say - they work pretty great. The only downside with the Peg is that they have tendency to split or strip the MDF if you're not very slow and careful.
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