geoff
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Everything posted by geoff
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thanks Duff. In the UK the term "Haberdasher"(very old fashioned)! refers to a store specializing in needlework, knitting, sewing threads etc..Hope this makes sense!?
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Hi Duff, when I was building R/C scale models I used Chenille on my 1:24 scale wooden steam drifter. I got this from a shop specialising in fly tying equipment, or you may get it from a haberdashers store if there is such a thing in your area , or the ever useful Amazon. Hope this is of use to you! All the best, Geoff. By the way ,I think the correct term is Baggywrinkles?
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Not bad for a first attempt at what is generally acknowledged as a fairly difficult model to plank, Especially the bows! However if you still have to add the wales, maybe 4 @ 4mm x .5mm strips, plus the upper wales etc., they will cover some of the hull. Fill any gaps in the area below the waterline with wood filler, then paint below the waterline off white, or brown. There is an area at the top of the hull painted blue,plus rubbing strakes, steps,etc, before you know it most of the hull will be covered one way or another, so don't worry too much it will be fine ! All the best, Geoff
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the only one I can think of is "Model Shipwright" published in the UK. You can get back copies from "The Model Dockyard" based in Cornwall. Hope that helps...a bit!
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if I were you I would avoid this kit like the PLAGUE! it is a pirated kit from a disreputable company & you would not be allowed to post a build log etc. here! Go for a reputable USA or European manufacturer. All the best, geoff
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with my shaky hands I wouldn't dare use a scalpel anywhere near ratlines etc! I use fly tying scissors from Amazon, or nail clippers.
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very impressive! But would it work with the type of wood we use? Also, you would need a big microwave to accommodate 24"+ timber! When (if)! I start my Endeavour, I am going to try the Admirals steam cleaner Ssshh! no that's not the sound of escaping steam !
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welcome "sgtski" (have you got a more manageable name)! As far as nails v glue is concerned, If your model has two layers of planking, the you can use fine brass nails and wood glue on the first layer, but leave the heads proud for later removal, then glue only on the second layer. This is just my personal opinion of course! All the best, Geoff
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lovely little model Omega. It reminds me of vessels like "Bluebird of Chelsea" one of the" Dunkirk Little Ships" . Hope you have the space to display it when finished! All the best, Geoff
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Good start Nicholas, keep it up, let's see more!
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Clear Shellac Sanding Sealer
geoff replied to grsjax's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
now, that's what you call a reply!! -
Clear Shellac Sanding Sealer
geoff replied to grsjax's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
perhaps you could try thinning it down a little first? -
how do i use a plank bender - moved by moderator
geoff replied to golfjohn's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
the best way is to practice on a piece of scrap wood first. You will notice that the closer together the "Nips" are, the tighter the bend. You may cut through the wood now and again, but practice makes perfect! Sometimes it pays to soak the wood first, it depends on how hard the wood is. I hope this is of some use to you! All the best, Geoff -
how do i use a plank bender - moved by moderator
geoff replied to golfjohn's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
do you mean an electric, or manual(plank nipper)one? -
Cutty Sark by Keith B
geoff replied to Keith B's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
spending all your time building your Cutty Sark is all very well, but I would keep an eye on that Heron if I were you, It's looking a bit Koi to me! -
another book worth considering is "The Warship Mary Rose" by David Childs published by Chatham Publishing. Lots of facts & illustrations . All the best Geoff
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me, how !?
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Hi Greg, just caught up with your wonderful build log. I am presently working on the "Admiral & crew" for when the gentleman with a white beard comes in December & delivers a Caldercraft Endeavour kit!(hopefully)! Sorry to read of the cat damage, but according to my AOTS the Endeavour was "A cat BUILT Bark, not a cat DESTROYED bark! Our cat is 19 years old now & more interested in sleeping & eating than boat wrecking(hopefully)! Fantastic build, I hope I can get close to yours ,All the best, Geoff
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Talking of Vic Smeed ,my(only)! claim to fame is a picture of my 48" model of the last Lowestoft wooden steam drifter "Formidible LT100".This is on the front cover of Vic's book "Introducing Radio Control Model Boats" published in 1994. I did quite well with her in scale steering comps. Happy days!
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One of the first static models I built was the "Lady Nelson" by Victory Models. A lovely, well presented kit. But OH those tiny cannons! I suspect they are just stock Amati items & way too small. Talk about "Spoiling the ship for a ha'porth of tar"!
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glowing after oil
geoff replied to michael101's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Michael you should be OK but remember with super glue you only get one chance, maybe you could experiment on some scrap material first? By the way I love the colour of your hull! -
glowing after oil
geoff replied to michael101's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Michael. Maybe you need to change the words "GLOW" and "GLOWING" to "GLUE and "GLUEING? to avoid confusion? Not sure of your Nationality but your English is fine ! All the best, Geoff -
fair enough, let's leave it at that then shall we .
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well folks I've done my best, like I said. Please don't shoot the messenger!!! P.S Hornet, I notice you have one Caldercraft kit under construction & two others awaiting construction,so they can't be that bad, can they !?
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I'm sure I read somewhere that Chuck described this method? I intend to try it on some scrap before committing it to my next model. Endeavour hopefully!!
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