Landlubber Mike

Looking really great Eamonn.  Time to go enjoy your drink of choice in celebration before on to the next step of the build

Great choice of a next model, I am looking forward to following your build.  Your Vasa came out great, so I have high expectations for this build (no pressure!)  

Hi Keith, that's what I was wondering as well.  In addition to paints, I wonder if weathering powders would work?  For example, I saw that Humbrol has a "chrome oxide green" that could be mixed with other colors to potentially get the color you need.

https://www.humbrol.com/shop/weathering-powders/weathering-powders/av0005-weathering-powder-chrome-oxide-green-28ml/

Really nice work guys.  For me, it's going to be a close toss-up between the green and brown effects.  Just out of curiosity, once you get the effect you want, do you seal the plates with something to help stop any further oxidation?

To avoid getting finger prints/oils on the hull, does anyone wear gloves?  I wonder though if CA would eat through latex or other thin plastic gloves.

Well I managed to find a coupling of two adapters that provide a really good seal without using duct tape. I have a Fein shop vac, which is in metric and has a 35mm hose.  The Byrnes machines' dust port is in inches (I believe 1.75" outer diameter, 1.5" inner diameter).

I ended up buying the following two items:

Shop-Vac 906-87-19 Universal Tool Adapter:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RHKU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bosch VAC003 35mm hose-to-1-1/4" port adapter:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AV77S/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I first cut off the largest section (including that square section) and the two smallest sections of the Shop-Vac adapter.  Then I slipped the smaller end of the modified adapter into the machine's dust port.  The Bosch adapter fits onto the vacuum's hose, and then is inserted into the larger end of the modified adapter.  The Shop-Vac adapter is rubber, and the Bosch adapter is plastic, so as you slide the Bosch adapter into the Shop-Vac adapter, you not only are ensuring a tight seal between the two adapters, but also between the Shop-Vac adaptor and the machine's dust port.  The fit is very snug when all is said and done, without needing duct tape or other solution.  

Anyway, just thought I'd share as I spent hours trying to find a solution.  Hopefully this helps out others with Byrnes machines that might be using a shop-vac that is in metric size.

Amazing work Chris.  After seeing your results, I'm taking that approach with my next build, the Corel Unicorn, that I would end up kit bashing anyway.  The three primary colors on your Confederacy work so well - I just hope I can execute it half as well as you do.

Have you checked out the plumbing area?  I basically use PVC fittings for all  the coupling I need.

David B

I did, but maybe I need to look again.  I need something that goes from 1.25" to 1.5" or 1.75". Didn't seem like there was anything in that ballpark.

Mark...... Thanks!! I'll check it out!

Mike...... I had the same problem with my Skill bandsaw on the Vac port, I use a PVC coupler wrapped in Duck Tape..... LOL It works in Jim table saw also!!....LOL Plus it's no big thing to cut out a circle on my Cnc wood mill and make an adapter, or even use the proper size hole saw and make one out of wood.

 

AL

Thanks Al.  I went to Home Depot on Friday to find the right size couplers, and couldn't find any that fit what I needed.  I might have to look online if the adaptors I bought don't work.

Ideally I was looking for something that fit both the Byrnes machines and my shop vac, as I see myself moving the shop vac around from tool to tool, and I wonder if the duct tape would unravel as you move the shop vac in and out of the outlets.  Maybe I'm just overthinking things 

Nice start Frank, looking great.  Should be a really fun model.  Good luck with the plywood

Hey Al,

Haven't used it yet, as I'm waiting for wood for my next build.  It's very compact, runs very quiet, and like I said before, is built like a tank  It's going to be nice to not have to hand sand everything

Did you figure out the dust port and how to hook it up to a shop vac?  I ordered a bunch of adaptors yesterday so hopefully one of them works.  The Fein shop vac I got has a 1.25" (more like 35mm) hose, and the Byrnes dust port I think is 1.5" inner diameter, 1.75" outer diameter.  It's been harder to find an adapter than I thought.

Just out of curiosity, does that big knob to the left of the on-off switch adjust the speed of the saw blade?  I haven't turned on the table saw, just fiddled with all the components.

I got mine a couple of days ago, along with the disc sander.  These things are built like tanks, very heavy solid construction.  The finish is also pristine on them - it's almost a shame that they will get full of sawdust as they look like they should be in a museum.  After getting my orders, I decided to suck it up and get the thickness sander (shh, don't tell the Admiral).

Thanks Jim and Donna!

Beautiful work on the cisterns!  I took a look at your charts last night and was also struck by how much they differ from Steel.  Interestingly, the Corel pictures don't seem to show that the masts and yards are overly thick, but maybe it's just their pictures.

Hi everyone, 

Sorry to bump this thread, but I was wondering if there were any other solutions to the Byrnes dust port adapter issue.  I ordered a few of the tools recently, and the disc sander arrived yesterday.  I definitely need an adapter fix as my shop vac hose opening is smaller than the sander's dust collection port.  The PVC adapter and shop vac telescoping adapter seem like good solutions.

Since I'll have the table saw, thickness sander and disc sander, I've also been trying to figure out the most convenient way to set up the shop vac so that I'm not constantly taking off and putting on duct tape.  Is it easy enough to install adaptors on each of the three machines, and then just plug the shop vac hose into whatever machine I'm using at the time?  I also saw Floyd's interesting approach of building a centralized connection system where the machines are connected to a common PVC tube, and the shop vac is run into the PVC tube:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1423-design-a-modeling-workshop/?p=28268

Any thoughts on the adapter or how to conveniently centralize the vacuuming across multiple machines would be greatly appreciated!  Thank you in advance!  

I bought a second of these benches.  The quality for the drawers (as well as the general finishing) was worse than the first one.  The worst thing is that I drove 25 miles to the store because they had an in-store only big coupon, I brought the thing home, down into my basement, and found out that the box had two legs of the same side    So, had to bring it back upstairs, pack it back into my minivan, and take it all the way back the next evening.  The next one didn't have that problem, but two of the drawers are too tight to even use.  Not a big deal for me as the drawers are very shallow, but it still is a bit annoying.

I think the reason that there are two of the same benches with different serial numbers is that they have two different manufacturers.  They originally tried swapping out a leg piece with another from an open box that they had, but when I compared it to what I had bought, the dimensions were slightly different.  

I also agree with Tim about wishing the benches were a little deeper.  I think they are a little over 20" deep.  Probably fine for some of the machining work and small detail piece builds that I will do, but I don't think I could work on the model itself on the bench.

In any event, these benches are incredibly sturdy and heavy.  I doubt that I could build one myself for the $130 or so I spent for them.

Peter, it's been a while since I've visited your log (MSW isn't sending my updates to build logs that I subscribed to  ), but you've made really nice progress.  Your sail work is outstanding, and I'm taking notes for my next builds (which ultimately will include the Pegasus).  

Nice to see a Pegasus build in sails - I've always thought that she would look gorgeous all dressed up!

Looking forward to your future updates.  You're on the home stretch

I'm fairly certain that the Pegasus has the tiller on the quarterdeck.  Something to consider

It's interesting - this morning, when I did a search on the Lyme at the NMM site, I came up with four plans.  Now I only come up with two.  The second picture in my last post might not be the 1748 Lyme - the stern looks pretty different from the Unicorn stern.  This is probably the profile view for the 1748 Lyme:

Like Chapman's plans of the Unicorn, the quarterdeck seems to slope upwards as you move toward the bow, although the portholes dont open up like on the Unicorn.

Very true Ian.  Plus, you've shown that if I don't like something on the Unicorn, existing work can be readily removed and rebuilt to good effect.  

Really gorgeous work Sherry.  I can't really add much more to the other well-deserved accolades that MSW is giving you, but builds like these give me the inspiration to raise the level of my work

Also, "Sherry Blue" is gorgeous - you should bottle it and market it

Thanks very much Ian and Joe, this is all very helpful. I'll go ahead and plan to cut the quarterdeck-forecastle template into two separate pieces.  Since I'm planning on not including the flag lockers, I'll have to get rid of, or modify, the second to last bulkhead.  That will leave a gap (I think) where the template should meet the stern, but I can just cut a new longer template if need be.  The gap probably won't be all that big to give me a planking issue, but it might just be better to cut a new, longer one for added support.

Thanks also for the tips on the forward upper bulwarks.  I thought they seemed a bit odd, and I can only imagine how difficult that made the planking.  Looking at the plans below of its sister ship, the Lyme, it doesn't look like Corel has the line correct.  I'll plan on modifying it like you suggest.

You've also given me a lot to think about when it comes to the masts.  I feel like I should do something to help lock in the masts.  Whether I build a cradle on the decks, or cut a slot into the keel, I think spending the time now will make life easier for me later on.

Ouch, the list of modifications is growing longer by the day.  I'm going to have to start writing all these down to keep them all straight.  Yesterday, I started to wonder whether it makes more sense at this stage of my skill level to build the Unicorn next, which is a more basic kit but is going to require a lot of tweaking -- or go with the Pegasus, which I believe is a much better kit in terms of accuracy and components and can pretty much be built straight from the box (plus, I have Bob Hunt's practicum for that kit and the TFFM series).  After coming across Ian's log and buying the Unicorn for $130 on one of Model Expo's eBay auctions, I figured that the Unicorn would be a good learning stepping stone before tackling the more complicated Pegasus -- especially given the high standards set by Blue Ensign and other Pegasus builders on here.  

So, hopefully it's just a matter of getting a few things on the Unicorn's hull "corrected" and then I should have a fairly smooth journey after.     

I spent a little time this evening and opened up the remaining bulkheads a bit to dry fit them on the keel.  A couple of the bulkheads are a bit out of alignment and need to sit down a little lower.  I'll check them against the plans and modify the keel a bit, then use the keel as a pattern to cut a new one out.

The lower deck sat very nicely amongst the bulkheads.  The upper deck was a bit tricky.  Ian, I think I see what you are saying about how the upper deck pattern is supposed to lay - which is probably asking a bit too much to ask one piece to cover all three areas (quarterdeck, waist and forecastle).  The quarterdeck area in particular is not sitting correctly, with a gap of a good few millimeters to where it should sit on the bulkheads the fore area of the quarterdeck.  Since I'm thinking of changing the angle of the quarterdeck to open up the portholes, I'll need to make some modifications for the quarterdeck bulkheads anyway so I'm not too disturbed.

Here are some pictures of the bulkheads and the deck patterns dry fitted to the keel.  Also I took a picture against the Badger for the size differential.  It's a bit hard to tell from the picture, but the Unicorn's hull is a good 50% longer and wider than the Badger's hull (even at 1:75 scale, versus 1:64 for the Badger).

Hi Ian, thank you very much.  This is all very helpful and confirms a few things that I was thinking.  Thank you so much for sharing the benefit of your experience with the kit.

So far I've managed to open up bulkheads 1-10 and dry fitted them to the keel.  I'm going to try and get the rest opened tonight, and will post a photo to show how the bulkheads fit.  Hopefully they have remedied the problem from the older kits as to the bulkheads fitting too low.

Do you know how the masts are installed?  The Caldercraft Badger's keel had slots for the masts to fit through the deck and into the slots.  That helped to lock the mast in position, at least front and back.  It doesn't look like Corel has taken a similar approach.

Thanks Joe, that seems like the best approach to me as well.  At this rate, it will take me another 2 months to figure out how I'll need to modify everything for the hull

Hi ZyXuz,

Nice progress photos on your Unicorn.  Even more importantly, I'm very happy to hear the good news about your father.  Good luck to him!

Thanks a lot Jason.  In a way, I'm wondering if I'm just causing myself more issues to work through by modifying the kit.  On the other hand, it's been a very interesting journey so far learning about frigates during this time period, and it should be good practice before ultimately moving to the dark side

I spent some time last night fitting the bulkheads to the keel.  The bulkheads and keel took a bit of filing to get the bulkheads to slide into the pre-cut slots in the keel.  Even though I'm planning on creating a new one, I wanted to get a sense of how the bulkheads lie, how the planking will proceed, and how the decks will be installed.  My new keel will be of plywood, but I need to modify it so that I can have the bow/stem and false keel in pear.  I also am thinking about reconfiguring the stern area (essentially scratching it to avoid the use of the cast metal parts, and getting rid of the flag locker) and angling the quarterdeck differently, so I'm trying to figure out now how all that will work going forward.

Ian, ZyXuz and my other friends, I'm curious as to your thoughts on a couple of things:

1.  Opening the waist and the upper gun deck template.  The upper deck template is one piece covering the forecastle, waist and quarterdeck.  With an open waist, there will be very little of the deck template that will survive at the waist for the waist gangways.  One disadvantage of keeping the template in one piece is that you will see the bit of the template under the deck planking (I think).  Since I'm going to use boxwood for the deck planking, the gangways might look like they have a dark line underneath.  Is it worth it instead to cut the deck template into two pieces (one for the forecastle and one for the quarterdeck), and do away with the template for the waist gangways (somehow just use the deck planking for the gangways)?  Hope that is clear 

2.  Stern post.  In going through the plans last night and thinking about the planking, I noticed that the kit seems to suggest that the planking extend all the way to the stern/end of the keel piece, and not butt up against a stern post (the kit doesn't seem to include a stern post).  I need to do a little more research, but my Caldercraft Badger had a stern post, and I'm wondering if the Unicorn would have had one as well.  If so, that's another piece that I will need to cut from pear.

Thanks for your thoughts!