cobra1951
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Everything posted by cobra1951
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Hi Nirvana i am doing all he decks with boxwood and i am using the kit supplied wood for the outer hull skin. As you say boxwood is really nice to work with but it's quite expensive compared to other woods, with delivery the cost for all the decking is around £70, dear but the finish it gives is worth it to me -
Forward and Aft holds deck bases fitted ready for planking. I have ordered some Boxwood for the planking as i don't want to use Basswood for planking, i once experimented with different woods for planking and i found that Maple and Lime gave a really bad finish, As Basswood and Lime are basicaly the same (just named differently in different countries) i do not fancy using it, so once my Boxwood order arrives i will commence the planking of the hold decks.
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Keel, frames and mast steps all painted except on the parts that will require glue later on, and also any parts that will be hidden have not been painted.
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Yes the pics and text on all the builds i am following are a great help. some of the problems are silly mistakes on AL's side, like giving wrong part numbers on some things, but i find reading 5 or 6 steps ahead in the instructions saves a lot of work later. and of course the help from build logs is invaluable, like needing to put a couple of grooves in one of the crossbeams for the pumps before you assemble all the decks permanently, ( I would have missed that and been fiddling to get it done). Good luck with getting back to your shipyard matey.
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Hi Captain AL I am following your build along with the other AL Bounty builds on MSW. I suppose this does give me an advantage with my build because i get forewarned of any problems others have encountered before me, and no doubt i will find a few of my own along the way
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All the frames, lower crossbeams and the mast steps glued into position.
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I have now dry fitted all the frames into the keel to make sure that they fit in the slots. The slots themselves are not part of the frame alignment process, they will be fitted using engineers squares.
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Hi Antony Yes the slipway will keep the keel nice and straight and if any of the frames are slightly out it will keep adjustments down to a minimum (hopefully )
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Hi Nirvana Thanks for your comment, I agree with you that keeping the keel as straight as possible is a basic fundamental of getting a good model and cutting down on any hassle later on. Enjoy your coffee, just got myself some too
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Hi This will be my build log for the Artesania Latina HMAV Bounty. It will be my first plank on frame model so wish me luck The first thing i decided to do was build myself a homemade slipway to stand the model in as it gets built. I got a plank and cut it to the size i wanted and then i cut two lengths of smaller plank to the same length. I then glued the smaller planks to the base plank with the Keel in between them (taking care not to get any seepage of glue into the centre slot. This will not only act as a stand but it will help to make sure the keel remains straight as i build. The next thing was to cut out some slots crossways along the length of the slipway to allow the frames to fit in their respective slots To make sure that the frames sat all the way down in their slots i took a spare 1.5mm x 5mm plank and layed it in the central slot of the slipway then when the keel was put back in it raised it in the slot just enough to stop the frames touching the base plank when they are fitted. That's as far as i have got for now i will post again as soon as i start to build the keel and frame parts
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Coming along nicely well done
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Thanks for the info, it was things like the cross beams and planking i was thinking about. Looks like the same method for me Cheers
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Hi You have a great build there . I am going to be starting a build of the Artesania Latina Bounty myself soon and i am thinking about whether to paint or not to paint the keel, beams and frames. The reason for this is i am thinking that wood glue does not work too well on painted surfaces. Could you tell me how you found it with your painted model Thanks
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Hi You're doing a great job on your build IMHO. I am going to be starting a build of the AL Bounty myself soon and one of the questions i have before i start is having painted the keel and frames what type of glue did you use as i suspect that normal wood glue needs to be applied to bare wood to make a strong joint. I am planing on using Titebond on most of it, but also normal pva where a bit more time is needed to adjust things, and CA on the brass parts. cheers
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Wow that is some project you have taken on
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The position of the whale looks spot on to me, nicely done
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Looks good and once sanded will look much better. Be careful when sanding either side of the whale that you don't round the edges of it.
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Great job Tim, the more you did the better it got
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Looks good for a first attemp at coppering (are you going to grout it)
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Hi Tim, i think Daniel might be right. Looking at the photo's of the actual ship the entrance port does look wider than the one on the model. Another reference is in the actual ship photo's the entrance looks almost if not the same width as a gun port. Something for you to ponder over i think
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Starting to look like the Victory we all know
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Nice neat job on the linings Tim well done
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Coming along nicely Frank The Admirals quarters are looking better fitted out than my house lol
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