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Greeting everyone
Well I am still on my journey around the hull tidying up and repairing the gunport lids etc. I started to fit the davits on the starboard side but messed them up and binned them, so I will return to them later. I have reached the stern facia after touching up the paintwork on the quarter gallery, and had to refit some of the trim that had came loose on the facia itself. Tonight I fitted the three stern lanterns and will now start to work my way down the port side hull. Here are a few photos of the lanterns which completes the facia. Thanks for your comments and for viewing . Here's a few photos. DAVID

The bow grating and decoration are proceding very slowly.  I found the middle headrails very frustrating. 
 
The first few photos show the completion of the hawse hole and grating.  For those who have not reached this stage, before final fitting make sure you trim and prepare the supports for the gratings so that the decorative trim for the middle and lower headrails is flush with the top of the notches provided.  You will need to put wallnut strip over them later - which I suspect will be very difficult indeed - particularly for the front support.  My solution is shown later.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Preparation for fitting the top head rails.  I got a bit carried away with sanding, but a bit of touch-up paint has already disguised it.
 

 
Here are the headrails dry-fitted.  A bit of touching up needs to be done.
 

 

 

 

 
This is where things turned nasty. It took hours to get the middle headrails fitted and symmetric.  I had not anticipated the need to adjust the notches to receive them.  Doing it on the model was rather fraught.  As well, to enable the wallnut strip to cover the grating supports I found it necessary to file the decorative strip.  The last photo shows this.  Even with this it's going to be difficult. The decoration here looks a bit messy but looks fine on the model.
 

 

 

.... continued.
 
I've glued veneer to the forward and aft curved sections to all the decks in similar fashion to the previous one.
 
The straight sections of the edge strips were a lot easier - 2mm x 3mm walnut did the job perfectly. I used masking tape to "clamp" them whilst they dried. This whole step should have been done before the deck was fitted by "old mate" - it was considerably harder to do with the already fitted deck :
 

 

 
To cut the 142 pieces of planking for the 3rd deck cabin I used my Chopper :
 

 

 
The cabin after gluing on all the planking strips with PVA :
 

 
And after sanding smooth :
 

 
  Danny

Very true David, but this time around I can't use bog and paint to hide the defects - it's all in natural timber. At least most of the "oopsies" were fairly easy to fix, and they're all behind me now .
 
Continuing on from the last lot of pics, I've finished the Ventilating Chamber. Strips of the same stock used for the bottoms and sides of the cutouts have been glued in, and brass bars have been drilled and fitted :
 

 

 

 
Apologies for the quality of the next couple of pics - I was using natural light at 6:30am. I glued three strips of 0.6mm walnut veneer around the curved section of the forward part of the deck - "rough as guts" in the 1st pic, and sanded to almost perfect in the 2nd :
 

 

 
Continued next post .....

The 3rd deck cabin gets it's re-enforcing blocks :
 

 
Halfway through planking the 3rd deck :
 

 
Joins were used in a 3-butt shift pattern :
 

 
To bend the ply around the aft end of the Ventilating Chamber I made some saw cuts halfway through and once again used masking tape to hold the piece in position for gluing :
 

 

 
Next I cut out the spaces for the ventilators with a sharp Xacto :
 

 
Then I glued the sides and bottoms of the frames into the edges of the spaces :
 

 
  Danny

Yeah, just great Edwin. The docs are very happy with the way my treatment's going - I'll be around for a lot of years yet . Thanks Frank, you are SO right .
 
Moving right along, I pulled out all the windows and doors on the 2nd deck cabin. This was very easy - just slip a flat knife blade under them and give it a twist and they all popped out. I'm not sure what type glue he used, but I suspect it may have been PVA, which doesn't bond metal to wood very well in most cases.
 
I don't know what he was thinking when he recessed the windows into the planking (perhaps he glued the windows on first and tried to plank around them), but it made my job a lot more difficult than if he'd planked the whole cabin and then glued the windows to the planking. Much trimming and replacing of missing or short strips was needed.
 
The easiest way to fix the gaps at the bottom was to fit a skirting board. There was no walnut veneer left in the box, so I made do with the only stuff I had on hand - some VERY VERY poor quality Sapelli left over from the "Victory" kit. I had to cut 1.5mm wide strips out of the middle of this stuff using a sharp Xacto and a steel rule :
 

 

 

 

 
The 2nd deck cabin after replacing missing planks, sanding and windows refitted :
 

 
The next problem I found belongs to AL - the 3rd deck was too short by about 10mm. From memory, I think I had the same problem with the "Mississippi" I'd built about 30 years ago (these two kits were about the same vintage). To fix the problem I simply glued a piece of scrap ply to the aft end :
 

 
Next job was to glue a strip of ply around the Ventilating Chamber of the 3rd deck cabin. I used PVA and held the piece in place with masking tape until it dried. Then I did the other side :
 

 
More follows ....

Hi all,
 
Here's another project which I'll be doing at my "Holiday Caravan" (which will soon be my permanent address when I build a workshop alongside it ).
 
This uncompleted model was given to me by a guy who's father had passed away before he could finish it, and he asked me if I could do it for him as he has no modelling skills whatever and he'd like to give it to his mum in memory of his dad. How could I refuse ?
 
The old guy was a reasonably good modeller (unlike my last project on the Del Prado "Victory"), so I didn't have a real lot of things to rip off and replace before continuing on with the job. However, as his son said, he was "losing the plot" quite a bit not long before he died, and the last few things he did on this model needed a bit of reworking.
 
Here are a few "Before" pics. The planking on the 2nd deck cabin wasn't the best, and the windows all had to come off again because the wrong glue was used on them :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More will follow in the next post .......
 
  Danny

Hello there:
 
I think I've corrected the keel warp. Clamping the keel in a building board mostly straightened it - there is a tiny bit of bowing still at stern, but this I can correct in the installation of the subdeck. 
 
As I've said, the ply supplied with the kit is very poor - the stuff represented in the photo-illustrated instructions seems of higher quality, and looking at the photos is making me jealous of whoever got to work with the better wood. Anyway....the bulkheads needed only very minor adjustments to get them to fit and on first blush there are no glaring issues (which is a relief after the challenges with Corel's Greyhound!!)
 
The bulkhead slots in the subdeck need to be corrected, but this is a minor issue - though the sound of me filing out the slots turned out to be a major issue for the Admiral who was sitting close by trying to work....so that task has been postponed.
 
Here are some photos....
hamilton
 

 

 

 

Revisited the slings.  Decided to go with approach illustrated in Petersson.  Small piece of spare walnut wash shaped and a groove cut to accept the top of the sling.  I found that initially cutting a small slot with an exacto blade, and then scraping with a piece of 1mm wire with rough edges to the end was the easiest way to get this done.  The sling now sits much more naturally and doesn't go round any hard edges which makes more practical sense.  Following BEs comment, also decided to place the sling through the forward opening which seems to be the reason for it being there.
 
In the course of this exercise, I realise that I have omitted the sling on the mizzen which already has the topmast shrouds installed.  I'll need to attach that in situ.
 
Unpainted 'thingy' on formast...it must have a name

 
Diminutive bosun inspecting the result and shouting his approval to move on...

Testing....

Well, the nose of the camel is now under my tent when it comes to rigging. I've had to fit the bowsprit into the hole I had drilled months ago in order to finish all the deck trim. I'm still a ways from rigging,, but it's the first step.

Here's the davits glued and pinned.

Afternoon Ladies and Gents,
 
After a long shore leave, I've been putting in a little more work on the Lynx.  It can be difficult to find time to work on it for long periods, with university and all, but nevertheless, I have made a bit of progress! As you can see in the attached pictures, I've managed to complete the first layer of planking on one side of the hull, as well as made some progress on the other.  I've taken the advice you guys have offered me and used the drywall filler to level off the imperfections that I was talking about in a previous post.  As you can see, I have applied the filler and sanded it in layers, and I still have some more filling/sanding to complete before the contours of the hull are perfectly smooth.  I'm aiming to get them as smooth as possible, in order to provide the best possible bonding surface for the outer planking.  
 
On a somewhat related topic, I've been reading up on planking tutorials and it seems that my method for planking is not ideal for the outer layer of planking.  To date, I have been soaking the planks and bending them to the contour of the hull and using the brass pins to hold them in place while drying to the desired shape.  Based on the planking tutorials I've been watching/reading, it seems like the best way to do the outer planking is to use string as a guide and sketch out the planks onto the inner hull, as a sort of diagram to follow while planking.  Then, using the correct ratio to ensure that the plank sections are to-scale, to use the electric plank bender to perfectly contour the outer hull planks and just fit them in place, gluing with carpenter's glue.  I'm just worried that the orientation of the planks will not look "real" once the final planking is complete.  I don't know where the tapered planks should go, if I should start from the top and work my way down, or alternate between the top and bottom as I go.  I'm just worried that I'll end up having the tapered planks in the wrong location and the final product won't "look right".  Any ideas/tips?
 
To answer your question, my Panart Lynx kit did not come with any dye powder, however it did come with two different types of wood for the two hull plankings; lime tree for the under layer and walnut for the outer layer. 
 
EDIT: If you look at the second attached picture of the unfinished side of the hull, near the bow, you can see another example of the planks not adjoining properly due to the excess sanding that I was talking about in my previous post.  The amount of filling for this side will be roughly the same as for the other side of the ship, and I think that the drywall filler did a pretty decent job of correcting for those imperfections.  

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have managed to get most of the port side outer bulwarks planked. The area between the second gun ports across the bow is still being worked. But, I was able last night to sand the planks flush (almost) with the sides and bottom of the gunports. I have left a little material there to sand off when I do the inside bulwark planking.
 

 

 
When I sanded down the through hull sieves, the piece of dowel I had on the inside started to be sanded, so no longer looked round. I had made these too wide. So, I popped them out and made new ones, using a smaller diameter dowel inside. I also didn't like the old ones because I didn't completely frame them on the sides, so I took the opportunity to add those side pieces to these. Here they are installed in the slots and sanded flush.
 
 

 
I am going to have to use some wood filler on these planks, but not too much. I think the bow planks will need more, as getting them to line up nicely along the sharp curve was a pain. Should have pictures of that area soon.

Continued my small bric-brac and made 2 more colour trials on the top ...
 

 
... finally was able to use my new clamps ...
 

 
... and finished the first two big dead eyes.
 

 
Ship shape und Bristol fashion enough for the scale?
 
Cheers, Daniel

Spirketting - My new word for today!   I like it!  Not the word, the spridetting on your deck!  
Are these the same color?  Or is it just the way the light is hitting it?  
 
I did some 'go fast' stripes on my Bluenose - They're a bit over stated / too bold.

 
Looking good!
 
Dee Dee

Latest Copy of Clamps Pegs & Pins available.. The new cover photo is shown below !!
 
All Righty Then I got the Spirketting done and all that is needed now is to shape it at the Aft Gun Ports Port & Stbd as it sits a little proud and to open out the Hawse Pipes (Anchor Holes)  I knocked up a couple for the transom also (not sure if these are right or not but they seem to work)
Next up is painting inside the gun ports and giving the bulwarks a final coat also..
 
Stay Well Folks.
 
Eamonn

Hi Everybody... did a little model work before I went to work... finished the sole between the bulkhead and the live well... added 1st coat of grey, then added a stringer on the bulkhead to start the cabin floor. now that I know where the bulkhead/sole meet i can add a companion way and finish the bulkhead.

Hello,
I send some pictures of the ship as it is today.
I know, the ship is very dusty, so bear with me
 
I gave up on the stern. I tried different process, but I couldn't find
any good plans or pictures/explanations on how to make it from scratch.
So I have ordered a fully made one from cornwallmodells.
A bit dispointed, as I would have like to make it myself.
But, as my girlfriend says: You make so much on your own already, so you are forgiven....
Nice and understanding partner I have
 
Have a good sunday you guys !
 
Lots of friendship and love to all of you

Friday, May 23, 2014  
Today I finished the installation of the (half barrel) guns . . . Here below the two gunport lids and guns at the beakhead bulkhead.
 
01 CAM00199.jpg

 
. . and here the four guns aft, installed under the lower gallery. Given their "uncomfortable" position it was more complicated to assemble the whole but after various body contortions it was achieved decently.
 
02 CAM00200.jpg

03 CAM00201.jpg

 
Sincerely, Jack.
 

Wednesday, May 21, 2014  
I finished all the activities for the gunport lids also on the remaining side. To work on the right side I developed a more practical, quick and "rope saving" method then the one used previously . . . it was much, much better. There are no aesthetical differences but the process was better on everything else.
 
I found also some time to fix the guns, or rather the half-barrels, of the upper deck. These guns are lighter than the same on the underlaying decks and the port lids are here substituted by a golden decoration which defines the outer edge.
 
I would say that 95% of the guns of the three decks are installed: there are now remaining four guns aft and two hunting. Regarding the sixteen guns located on the forecastle and the quarterdecks it is a totally different matter: these are completed with blocks, ropes and tackles. First problem: I need to use blocks of suitable size, similar to the ones used for the guns on the upper deck below the waist. Those provided by the De Agostini partwork are simply "enormous", totally out of scale. I have to find them. I raised an order to a model shop . . 
 
If these missing pieces will become available in a short time I'll probably start working on these 16 guns. If not I'll start working on the bow: head, figurehead, bowsprit, etc.
 
We'll see what next. Regards, Jack.   
 
01 CAM00198.jpg

02 CAM00197.jpg

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04 CAM00196.jpg

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Friday, May 16, 2014
 
Today I continued to work on the gunports and at the end I managed to finish the entire right side. I thought it was a longer work, however, using the "improved" method, it was smoother and faster. Below are some pictures (taken with the smartphone) of the ship side with all the gunport lids opened. The sight on the side seems to me considerably richer and more crowded with the new details . . 
 
Now that a good deal of work has been done and, above all, I optimized the method of working, I'll try in the next post to list all the necessary steps to complete a port lid like the ones shown, starting from the beginning. 
 
Sincerely, Jack.
 
01
 
02
 
03
 
04

Tuesday, May 13, 2014  
Work on the gunport lids is still ongoing . .
 
Today I fixed the gun half-barrels on the left side, using the same method tried yesterday on the right side. 
After this activity, I started to experiment the mounting of the ropes, on the external side of the lids, that serve to raise them. I think this is the most boring part of this group of activities. For today I have limited myself to work on six / seven doors to find the best method in terms of results but also in search of the more practical execution. 
I tried a couple of solutions and at the end I found what I prefer. For now I will only show three images of how the gunport lids look like once finished. As soon as I have more time I will describe the procedure in detail.
 
01 P1090796.jpg

02 P1090795.jpg

03 P1090794.jpg

 
Greetings to all, Jack.Aubrey.
 

Sunday, May 11, 2014  
Not a very productive week. Apart the short time dedicated to the model, most of the work done on it was to work around the gunport lids to fix the ropes used to close them. Nothing significantly for taking a photo. In the interval between these boring activities I have finished the fourth lauch, the "green" one, and I fixed it to its support together with the "blue" launch. 
 
The two pictures here below show the two boats on its basement . . .
 
01 P1090793.jpg

02 P1090792.jpg

 
. . . while the remaining two images show the boats on board of the vessel. They are only positioned, not fixed, because I do not think it is the right time to definitely bond them in place. I'm thinking about a fixing method that uses pins instead of glue so it can be removed if necessary for access to the details installed on the deck . . . 
 
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I hope next time I'll be able to show something more interesting. Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey.