MEDDO

I can say with complete confidence that the NRG - and MSW - have never been in better shape than right now.  We have experienced continued growth and member involvement.  It was common to get less than 100 members responding to surveys and voting and we now can count on hundreds participating in votes and feedback.  We will be sharing a lot of information with the membership tomorrow about growth and activities.
 

I finished this kit a few months ago.  Loved the quality of materials, detail, variety of wood types supplied.  Very enjoyable.  If you want to see more, I posted an abbreviated build log under DelmerModels.  Great kit for someone who prefers woodwork over rigging!  For those considering, I’d recommend adn I hope you enjoy it as much as I did

Beautiful ship and a great subject

No one's ever going to accuse me of moving too fast. Closing in on finishing the port side planking. One thing I can say, this isn't my favorite part of the hobby. I'm plodding along, sanding with 100grit as I go to level out the planks. I think it's looking OK. 
 

 

Addendum: garnet tackle - Palan d'etai
I almost forgot something. Because to secure the garnet tackle, eyebolts still have to be attached to the deck. I also found out that according to the Paris model, the hauling part for the garnet tackle, which is attached directly to the mainstay, has to be led over a single block. 

So for this purpose some parts had to be made, which can be seen on the following picture (double block with swivel hook only for size comparison):

 
See you soon ...

 

NRG VIRTUAL WORKSHOP
USING THE TABLE SAW SAFELY
 
Saturday, December 11, 2021
 
 
Plan to attend the next NRG Virtual Workshop on Saturday, December 11, 2021, at 10:00 AM CST entitled "Using the Table Saw Safely".   Presented by NRG Director Kurt Van Dahm.  This is an updated version of Kurt's talk which was presented at the 2018 NRG Conference in Las Vegas.  As usual this event is free to NRG members while others can attend for the bargain price of $5.00.
The safe use of smaller table saws, like the Byrnes saw, will be the subject of the presentation.  Though smaller than full-sized table saws, model-sized saws can still take a finger off or severely injure the modeler if they are used in an unsafe manner.   Kurt will show how to perform rip cuts, cross cuts, lap joints, miters and other common operations in a safe and efficient manner.  Many modelers say they are totally intimidated by the dangers of the table saw and that they are hesitant to use the saw they purchased.  After this program, these modelers should be less hesitant to use their saw.   And those modelers who routinely use their saws will appreciate the tips on proper saw set-up.   At a minimum this presentation will provide a helpful review of safety tips and might even prevent an injury due to complacency.
Pre-Registration is required, and registration is now open.  Use the link below to register.  This is free to NRG members and non-members can attend for the low price of $5.00.  Follow the directions on the website link page to register.  
LINK
 
https://thenrg.org/event-4571585
NRG members should be able to select the FREE registration option after starting the registration process and entering the email address on file with the NRG.  You may need to log into your NRG account to register for free.  If you're not sure how to log into your account, click here for more information. 
Not an NRG member?  Click here for information on joining!   We plan to have several of these Workshops each year.  With NRG memberships starting at $40 you will receive the quarterly Nautical Research Journal, discounts on NRG products and FREE admission to the Workshops. 

Both QGs were completed and the hull moldings and friezes were installed and now it’s time to pay attention to the stern details.
 

 

I always taper the top of the next plank laid up to the untapered bottom of prior one. Your Cheerful is looking great.  

Thanks very much Chuck. I really appreciate your saying that. The concept of treating everything as a mini project is finally starting to sink in.  
 
Paul

The biggest lesson that this forum has taught me is that each of us, regardless of level, is working hard at every detail. Even if we don’t see it in the end, taking things seriously is something we have to stick with. So I slowed down the shooting and tried to make the details as perfect as possible. Thank you for your support and attention to my friends!
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

Having gathered the material and paused my previous Flirt build I’m ready to start Winchelsea.
 

 
 

 
First I had to do a few modifications to my workshop to accommodate the much larger Winchelsea by increasing my workspace width.
 
I’ve opted for Alaskan Yellow Cedar, after building Cheerful using it I know just how nice a wood it is when finished and how satisfactory it is to work with. It’s all there in the white topped plastic box in the corner ready to go, along with the first several chapters of laser cut parts.
 
Since the plans are too large for the counter where I normally keep them I stored my Pegasus framed draft and hung the plans using velcro fasteners. In theory I can remove them without damaging the wall and easily change which sheet of the plans is hanging.  I guess I’ll find out. I printed two copies of the plans. As I discovered with Cheerful it’s handy to have a set I can cut up at various stages of the build.
 

 
I opted for the starter kit from Chuck. I have no desire to cut my own bulkheads or find the lite-ply to cut them from. I’m more than content with Chuck’s already perfectly cut set. I’ll get to know it really well during the fairing stage - after I figure out how to fair something this huge without breaking it or me. I started by transferring the bearding line using tracing paper. Interesting that the middle section is reversed from the other two with the laser etching.
 
I also bought 1/16th acrylic sheets on from Amazon to provide a nice flat surface for it and the stem. And finally the build board, I went to Home Depot to pick up some MDF or something cheap but this scrap piece of beautiful oak called out to me. I sanded the edges and put a coat of WOP on it (why not) and will next add the brackets.
 

 
Finally, my thanks to Chuck for this incredible design, his detailed chapter instructions, and parts that go with each. I’m well behind so many great Winnie builds already in progress and at every stage of construction. I know I’ll greatly benefit from those many build logs already posted, thank all of you for taking the time to post and explain your work.  I doubt I’ll have much to add (if you've seen my other logs you know that won't stop me:-), yet I will enjoy sharing my progress as well as I move along.
 
Let’s begin!
 

The lower left one in the illustration above is strange: normally there are two compasses, one on either side with the lamp in the center compartment. Why two compasses? One can be seen no matter whether the helmsman stands to the left or right of the wheel. Also, as planned redundancy, should one compass fail.

I Couldn't resist the purchase of this book 'Seamanship in the age of sail' by John Harland. Got it second hand but states as new. I haven't heard it mentioned on here so hope I haven't  bought something of no use. I am currently only building my second period ship the Endeavour and my previous ship the Bounty I did not add the sails so  omitted a lot of the running rigging. I am now considering fitting of the sails and all of the running rigging and possibly furling the sails even though the sails were not supplied with the Endeavour kit by Caldercraft.
                             I am hoping the new purchase will help me understand the need for all of the running rigging and how and why it is used. There is a mine field of books on offer and thankfully because of MSW I have chosen to purchase books by James Lees,Andersson Petersson and mondfield and have been described as some of the best out there. No doubt there will be some duplication but hopefully will give me a different perspective in my thirst for learning all I can take in. Best regards Dave  

Post 70:  A little more progress
 
Domestic and family issues have slowed me down a bit of late but  all rigging has now been tied off although there are a few more rope coils to go.
 

 
However I have started work on the anchors which are made from one of Chucks nice little kits.
 

 
Treenals were simulated on the stock by drilling and filling as on the hull and the anchor itself was painted black and then treated with weathering powder to make it look more like metal.
 

 
The Puddening was carried out by wrapping the ring with Mara 70 thread.
 

Welcome Jesse.
As you are in Maryland, would you mind taking a run over to Preble Hall and shoot several hundred close up photos for me?    KIDDING.   I am glad to have left the northeast but I do miss some things like being able to get to Preble with a few hour drive,  St Michaels, the seaport in Baltimore, best crab cakes in the world, oysters to die for.....  Maryland is a GOOD place to be.  Again, welcome to MSW.
Allan
 

Welcome to the forum.  You will find a wealth of information here with many who are eager to help with any questions you have. Although I now live in Ohio I grew up in Baltimore and having the inner harbor area ships as well as one of the worlds greatest collection of model ships in Annapolis is wonderful inspiration.

Welcome to the forum.  You will find a wealth of information here with many who are eager to help with any questions you have. Although I now live in Ohio I grew up in Baltimore and having the inner harbor area ships as well as one of the worlds greatest collection of model ships in Annapolis is wonderful inspiration.

Welcome to the forum.  You will find a wealth of information here with many who are eager to help with any questions you have. Although I now live in Ohio I grew up in Baltimore and having the inner harbor area ships as well as one of the worlds greatest collection of model ships in Annapolis is wonderful inspiration.

Hey everyone, I have been getting in a few hours a day on Cheerful.  The bulwarks were thinned down mostly with a Dremel and a 60 grit sanding drum. Picked up a #4 riffler from Lee Valley.  They're just down the road from me so that's pretty handy.  I found that it worked well for getting into the tight spaces.  Then there was much sanding.   After all was said and done the gun ports had to be relined.  Next I took another run at the square tuck.  Used 3/16 x 3/64  offcuts for the planks.  Would have been a better idea to use pieces all from the same plank.  There is quite a bit a variation in the color of the planks.  ( In real life )  Character?   I want to plank the the inside of the bulwarks to beef them up a bit before finishing the fancy stuff on the exterior so next I'll spend some time inside
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

I added the breasthook at the bow.  This was straight forward.  It is laser cut.  Unlike the one on the gun deck at the bow I cut this one in one piece.  So you may have to adjust and tweak it to fit snug and tight against the bulwarks a the bow.   Dont forget to chamfer the top and bottom edge on the aft side.  That is customary.   Unlike last time you see I also added some bolts.  There are four on each arm or side of the breasthook.  I used 30lb black fishing line for this.
 

In the same photo above you can also see the cathead I made.  But most important in that photo is the slot for the cathead.  Note how it has been notched out with a sharp chisel and blade.  I did so on the inboard side right down to the deck.   Take the INBOARD side down to the margin plank.  Remove the waterway as well.  Do this carefully.  You will need sharp chisels or blades.  Careful not to mar the deck.
 
On the outboard side it is a bit different.  See below.  I only notched the outboards side down to the top of the frieze.....OR better yet described, remove the fancy molding where the  notch will be.  Then deepen the notch down to the bottom edge of the molding that remains.  Its not as deep as the inboard side.  This is what will give the cathead its proper angle.
 

I hope this makes sense so far...
 
The catheads...
 

These are pretty easy to make but dont rush it.   The main cathead is in three layers.   The two outboard layers define its shape.  They line up with the front or OUTBOARD end of the cathead.   But this is very important.  The goal here is to not show the seams between the three layers if possible.  To minimize this, you MUST thoroughly clean the char from the edges of the center piece.  Its 1/4" thick boxwood so there is a lot of char.  Dont be afraid to scrape it and sand it.  I compensated for this and if you dont clean it well enough, the two outside sheaves of the cathead will be too wide.   So do go ahead and sand away!!!  Also test the sides periodically to check the width of the two outer sheave slots.   
 
Glue the layers up with tite-bond.  Make sure you line everything up and center the side pieces up and down.  Then sand them smooth top and bottom.  But also sand the center to the shape of the outside layers.  That shape is very important.  Note the finished cathead in the photo above.  Use a sharp chisel to get most of the heavy stuff off and when you get close to the shape switch over to a sanding stick.  Sand it to match the shape....test it in the slot on the model.  ONE MORE NOTE:  the front side of each cathead is NOT at a 90 degree angle.  It isnt supposed to be.  It is a much steeper angle actually and that is a detail not usually shown n models.  The angle of the front of the cathead is important and before you glue the star onto it you should make sure its flat and shaped appropriately.  Look at the laser cut sheet and I think you can better see the actual shape of the cathead on the side panels.  I made sure I gave you guys an extra cathead just in case.
 
The front piece is similar.  It has that wonderful star pattern etched onto it.  Sand the four sides flush.  But also try and scrape some of the char away from the perimeter of the star.  I used the tip of a #11 blade to scrape away a good amount of the char around the outside of the star.  It cleaned up really good.  I found it easier to do after I glue it onto the cathead.
 
Test it on the model...
 

In this photo above you will also notice how I added an iron band around the outboard end.  Its very thin.  I just used some black tape for this.  Dont make this too heavy and wide.  Just a really thin band.   Use the seam from the star piece as a guide.  Cover up that seam or at least put the band right up against it.   It really finishes it off wouldnt you say?
 
When positioning it....the inboard side is also very very important.  Remember you want it to look like one piece with the cat tail under the beams.  Do your best to line them up assuming you positioned all that stuff carefully enough early on.  
 
See below.  we are just trying to simulate the cathead and cat tail being in one piece.  Do the best you can.  Its a very difficult part to make otherwise.  Especially with a cathead as detailed as this one.  Oh and yes there are laser cut sheaves for the cathead as well.  You can see them in the photos.  Just glue them into the slots for them.  
 

I am not sure I pulled it off 100% but its real close.  I am happy with the results.  Especially after looking at how the catheads are usually portrayed on most kits.  They seem like afterthoughts.  But they are an important detail in my opinion. 
 

Now to do the other side....any comments or questions??

Hello everyone,
 
My name is Jesse.  I'm from Maryland, USA.  I just signed up for the forum.  I've been reading posts here for a couple of months and decided to join.
 
I'm currently working on Model Shipway's Taurus.  I've finished the hull and mounted it.  Hopefully, I'll start a new topic and post some pictures. 
 
Over the past couple of years, I've completed about a half dozen Midwest Products kits.  Sadly, they no longer make them.  I've also completed Artesania Latina's Swift.  Most of my modelling background though has been plastic models, primarily armor.  I've been heavily modelling since '98.
 
As I make the transition to wood model ships, I'm really looking forward to participating in this great forum.
 
- Jesse

Capstan Step (P/N 104)
The Capstan Step is comprised of three pieces, joined by half-lap joints along the length of each piece. It is complicated slightly be the centre piece being thicker than the two outer pieces as it extends below the surface of the deck, between. I was puzzled by some of the drawings and instructions, until I realised that Toni had made this centre (thicker) pieces from two thinner pieces. As I had already milled some timber to the correct thickness to use a single piece for this, I went ahead and used that.
 
The half-lap joints were relatively easy to cut on the Byrnes saw. I attached a sacrificial fence that would allow me to partially bury the blade in the fence. Having set the blade height to exactly half the stock thickness (of the thinner pieces), I simply ran the pieces over the blade and edged the fence out slightly wider with each pass until the desired width was achieved. I used the micrometer stop to assist with the final passes to ensure that the exact width was obtained. One side of the centre piece needed the lap joint taking to a different height, but that was just a case of adjusting the blade height and leaving the remainder of the set-up in place.
 
The underside of the centre piece also needed to be notched at either end to fit between the deck beams. I used the same process for this, using the same set-up with a different blade height and fence setting. Again the micrometer stop was used to sneak up on the final cuts to ensure a snug fit between the deck beams.
 
Here is a shot of the fence arrangement:
 

 
And here is the centre piece after all joinery operations are completed:
 

 
In the above photo, I have also drilled the centre hole for the capstan spindle. I had to compromise here as the plans call for an 11/16” diameter hole and my drill sizes only included 5/8” or 3/4". I went with 5/8” and will adjust the size of the capstan spindle in due course.
The individual parts were then glued up, given a light sanding and the sharp edges and corners given a gentle round over.
 

 
Here is a shot of the underside, showing the additional work on the centre section:
 

 
And finally, here’s a couple of shots with the Capstan Step temporarily located on the Deck Beams:
 

 

 
I’m going to hold off on drilling the bolt holes for now. 
 
I think that all of the easy bits are now done. Next up is manufacturing the Step Brakes. I think I know how I’m going to approach that task…..