MEDDO

The Main Stay, Foresail Halyard, and Jib Halyard
 
It bears saying again. I am grateful for all the build logs on MSW. I learn so much from so many, I hope my log helps others as I’ve been helped.
 
Back to work, though work has slowed down lately. I think I’m either reluctant to reach the finish line or procrastinating because ratlines are now on the agenda. I do not like ratlines, Sam I am. The good news is there are only eight total shrouds so how long could it take…I don’t know because I haven’t started them…
 
The Main Stay
 

 
It’s just one ‘string’ but the main stay takes some time and thought to get right. It’s served around the mast to just below the eye, so I had to do a bit of measuring and testing to determine where that was. There is no precise definition of where to form the eye, I just eye-balled how big I wanted it to be it using the .054 Dark Brown rope that is used on the stay. I found a black grease pencil useful for marking the dark brown rope (or China marker I believe my Brit friends say). The black is hard to see but there is no chance it will show through the serving, so I prefer it to a brighter color. The measurement is a little tricky, the stay sits on top of a lot of other rope around the mast head, it’s important to make sure it’s snugly seated. The sling wants to get in the way so I had to check and recheck for a proper fit.
 

 
Of course I served the stay extra long even having measured repeatedly, why not. Cheerful does not have a mouse on the main stay, instead it is a seized eye. This particular seized line required a different approach than my other seizings. In part because of the large .054 served rope and because it’s very visible, I wanted it to look good. My normal seizing technique just wouldn’t work to my satisfaction, so having marked where I wanted, I cut the end of the served line at a sharp angle (using the toe nail clippers, here they exceed both cuticle cutters and scissors). Important obvious note, the serving has to be sealed so it doesn’t explode as its cut. I elected to use CA to seal the end of the serving since the cut would be covered by the seizing. I then glued that angled cut to the running length of the stay, again using CA. (I didn't like how the serving looked terminated on the running end, so I cut off the one in the photo and did the whole thing again.
 

 
BEFORE I did any of that I added the foresail Halyard block very loosely seized to the stay. This block, along with the tackle seized to the block are fitted to the main stay inside the loop and close to the trees. Even with the quad hands this would be a difficult block to add to a completed stay with its awkward location. It was SO much easier to slip it on before closing the eye, you can see it unfinished two photos above and the block seizing completed after the main stay is installed.
 

 
(failed focus on this photo) To do the main stay seizing (you can see that loose foresail block in this photo as well ) I started by tying a square knot with 50wt polyester thread just below where I had glued the eye. I had used .012 rope on the shrouds and deadeyes and tried it here, it looked too heavy, the thread is a better look. I left enough of the short end to pass it up through the center of the seizing then proceeded to wrap with the long end of the thread until I was far enough over the splice to suit my eye. I’m normally big on precision with the number of wrappings, but here I just stopped when it looked right. Actually I went further, decided it was too much and backed up. I tied another square knot with the remaining long end and the short end of the thread on the bottom where it isn't seen. I painted it with very watered down white glue, now I have a main stay eye.
 

 
On to the other end of the stay, I turned in the large 5 hole deadeye purchased from Syren just as I did the shroud deadeyes, clove hitch at the overlapped base and two seizings above (7 turns instead of the 10 at the deadeyes) per the plans. Here I went back to .012 rope because for the “heft.”
 

 
The seizing of the lanyard is also a bit tricky. I ran a .025 lanyard connecting the stay to the stem, those 5 holes on the stem are finally used after the stem being one the very first things added to the ship so long ago. To finish it off requires a single hitch above the first seizing on the stay, then the running end of the lanyard seized to the stay. No problem, except all that is kinda hanging in the air and that hitch has to be kept taunt. I could have employed the quad hands, but room to work would be tight. Instead I tied the lanyard far up the stay with one short piece of tan rope and tied another to hold the loop of the seizing thread while I passed it around the stay between the seized loop with sharply pointed tweezers. In the photo I was using 50wt thread but after completing it I decided it was too heavy so I cut it off and re-did it with fly-tying thread. Just a quick moment to thank @DelFfor the fly-tying thread recommendation. I admit I was a bit skeptical at first, but since then I’ve used it to seize almost every block on the model. To me, it provides the right look and scale, and is well worth the not insignificant effort to see it while doing seizings. Not finding a good color match for the light and dark brown rope on Amazon, the thread came from some random fly fishing website found during a google search.
 

 
Here is the finished stay at the lanyard end. Please note the proper stopper knot ripped from the pages of my Ultimate Book of Everyday Knots, a book I recommend for everyone including outside model building. Amazon has it Here
 
Foresail Halyard
 
Next up is the ratlines, nope I can put it off a little longer. Next up the foresail halyard.
 

 
Having seized the block on the stay earlier this was now pretty easy. The running length goes to a block seized with a hook attached to an eyebolt just behind the stem (so that’s why I put that eyebolt there so long ago).
 
Another note I’ve said before but bears repeating. Not every eyebolt/belaying point are highlighted early in the instructions for most any model. I always look ahead to the rigging section and study the plans to locate these. They are frequently so much easier to add early before room gets tighter. Like this one it can be forgotten for months until I actually need it.
 
The running length runs down through that block, back up top and belays to a cleat at the base of the mast. This is makes for a really long piece of .018 rope. The challenge for this halyard is to balance the tension on the line enough so that it looks right, but not so tight that it’s pulling the stay out of alignment or into an award pulled out look. The halyard doesn’t really need to be very tight, over-tightening doesn’t gain anything.
 
And now for the ratlines.- No wait, I can still put those off.
 
Jib Halyard, In-haul, and Out-haul
 

 
This one is fun. Three distinct tackle that work in sync with each other to manage the jib. I made up all three as a first step knowing I’d install them as a working unit.
 

 
A .018 line seized to a block at the mast cap runs down through a block seized to a hook (I installed that eyebolt but left it unglued before placing the mast cap, so again an easy install on the block). That hook is seized to the hook on the traveler ring I had remembered to add way back when installing the bowsprit. It’s just going to flop around there for a minute. On a side note, the mast is looking pretty cool with all those served ropes.
 

 
(another focus problem, I’m getting sloppy) The out-haul starts with a stopper knot (again from my book of knots, I normally just do a figure eight knot when a stopper is required, but like the main stay lanyard its very visible) runs from the traveler ring forward to the sheave cut into the bowsprit (so that’s what that’s for) back to the fixed block I’d made on the starboard side of the stem, then up and over belayed to the bowsprit bitts starboard post.
 
Finally, the trickiest of three lines, the in-haul, is actually two ropes joined together (no thimble this time). It requires a V with its ends tied to either side of the traveler ring (I gently glued these with the lightest touch of CA to keep them on the sides and not slip down to the bottom of the ring) with the peak of the V seized to another rope (all of these are .018). To have the V centered I attached the two ends to the traveller then seized a loop at the resulting center. The result is the in-haul with its two seized lines laying along top of the bowsprit and belayed to the port bitts post. I left the loops at the joining of the two ropes a little large to give a better look of the joined lines, no reason to squeeze them tight.
 
The tricky and fun part is pulling the right tension on all three, back and forth and together to arrange the traveler ring into a fixed position on the bowsprit. Per the plans I chose this to be 80mm from the far end of the bowsprit, which kinda looks right.
 

 

 

 
And this is how it all looks like this in the end. And now it’s time for the ratlines..unless there is something else I can  find to do first….
 
Thanks for stopping by. The likes and especially the comments are always appreciated.

Well, the test run seems to work, if a little labor intensive. The brass strips act as depth stops and I used a piece of cross-batten stock to act as a spacer. A little refinement of the method, then the actual grating is next....
 
 

Next is a major challenge; a small and complex grating aft. I first cut a pattern in card and it fit the inside of the model perfectly. Whew!  Next was pondering how to construct the grating. Using rubber cement on such small pieces was not an option; rubber cement is poor in resisting shear forces. I decided to PVA glue pieces to the pattern which was rubber cemented to a piece of illustration board. The first stage is shown with the longitudinal battens in place. I'm still thinking about the best way to cut the scores for the athwartships battens. More soon!
 

I listened to the podcast and it is an interesting addition to my list.  I am looking forward to future episodes

Allan, already signed up

Allan, already signed up

I listened to the podcast and it is an interesting addition to my list.  I am looking forward to future episodes

Moving aft, there is a transom knee springing from the inwale on each side. I glue them in slightly over-size and then carefully trim them down along the curve which has a rolling bevel. The starboard side is complete and the port side knee has just been glued in.
 

Finished the port sills and will do the gunport framing when the sills to bulwark dry to a hard cure. My comment on the first sill has since proved me wrong so its back to measuring and markings. My first method works fine if the sill stays at the level evaluation but when they start to sweep with the line they present two angles for each cut. Fiddly little buggers. Cutting the top and bottom angle and the the side upsweep angle required many oops. Got to feed the scrape barrel mouth. Got all the port sills in now on to the framing and starboard side. The process I finally settled on was to cut the bulwark angle first then making minor amounts of sanding until the sill rested against the bulwark. Hardest part was to make them so the slide between the bulwarks without forcing the geometry. Just enough of a slide fit to hold in place while the glue sets. Oops, feed the scrap barrel again.
 
First sill done

 
Feeling good about myself and then OOPS I saw the upsweep missing between 0 and 2. Breakout the alcohol and start soaking. Wasn't bad though as the glue was still fairly soft. Fixed the placement and continued on to adding sills.
 

 
All sills placed waiting for glue to set.
 

 
Looking good I think for my first scratch build.
 
Make it a good day
Will 
 
 
 

Now that the length of this cutter has been settled, we continue.
 
The two inwales were tricky in that both inner and outer surfaces have a rolling bevel. My strategy here was to shape the outer bevel and fit the inwales first. Then I sawed the inner shape wide of the marks. The inwales were glued in and then the inner faces carved to shape in place. A very sharp tool plus cutting with the grain were essential for this. The basic hull is very strong at this point and stands the stresses very well. A final sanding completed the inner faces of the inwales. I am now in the process of cutting and fitting an upper breast hook, making it in two pieces.
 

Post thirty-one
 
Progressing the seating
 
This involves placing sections that fit between the thwarts centrally down the boat.
 
The main objective is to get a tight clean fit up against and either side of the thwarts.
 
I start by gluing a section into thwart one, the forward end fitting into the Fore deck edge.
 
The sections will require cutting of one edge to fit the space, the length is marked and cut sufficient to leave a final sanding trim.

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To this end I made a simple jig to hold the thwart and centre section for sanding. I took this process very slowly with constant test fits.

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I moved progressively down the boat until each thwart had a centre section that fitted into the thwart forward of it.
 
My decision to notch the thwarts around the frames proved the right one.
On three of the thwarts, I did need to tweak the fit to get the centres in line; had I initially trimmed them to sit only on the risers, one side may have been left without support.
Once I had completed the whole thing I reviewed and replaced three centre sections where I thought the joint insufficiently tight.
Fortunately, Chuck includes a few spares no doubt for this purpose.

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 One of my concerns is that viewed from the side the centre line planks run in a subtle sheer line from bow to stern without any hint of an angle.

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Being unglued at this stage the centre planks can move about a bit but once I have confirmed I can achieve a look good to my eye, I trust I can replicate it as I glue the sections into place.

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Worth getting my oarsman in to check the seating arrangement.

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At this point I am torn between painting the thwarts red or leaving them natural, sealed with wipe-on-poly.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/21
 
 
 

Finished fairing port and starboard sides. Made fairing strip 1/16" by 1/32" to verify rough fairing. Spent 2 days checking the fairing with the strips using 320 grit sandpaper until getting the fairing so each bulkhead had complete coverage. The bow was the hardest to get the fair into the stem rabbit. I tried to use 1/8" by 1/16" boxwood to verify the gunports but the boxwood split when a pin was pushed through and into the bulkhead making a uneven surface with bumps at the pin locations. Then decided to use basswood and ripped and milled two strips 1/8" by 3/64". I used 3/64" thick as that will be the planking thickness. Pinning the strips using the laser marks showed only very minor adjustment to 3 locations on the port side and 2 locations on the starboard. Viewed the strips from front, back, top and bottom when satisfied marked the outside face of the bulkheads.
 

 
Next on the gunports sills and sides and I will also keep checking my lines before the gunports.
 
Make it a good day
Will 

The eyebolts and split rings for the bulwarks and gun deck are done. Boy! I just love making those🤥 I made them as small as I could. The ID the bolts are around .025" which conforms to the smallest round nose pliar that I have. Just enough to get the 24ga rings through. Be careful not to drill too deep into the bulwarks against the plywood bulkheads. It wouldn't be hard to snap a bit if you did.

 

 
Mike

Well, the past three days have been quite challenging. I realized that I needed to add other structures at the bow before adding the inwales.
First was a small fore deck. The plans did not show the plank layout, but one of Eberhard's photos helpfully did. The deck is supported by several narrow beams.
 
Next was the challenge: a massive breasthook in three parts. The two arms are over 5' 0" long and it has a separate cross-chock. The port arm went easily and fitted around the toptimbers nicely. However, the starboard one took six attempts before I finally got an acceptable one. As the cross-chock was let down over the arms I made this in two layers. 
 
Now finally on to the inwales!
 

Post 61: Faking Down
 
Before the ratlines get in the way I decided to at least attach some rope coils.  I use the method of Tom Lauria.  I find that that his oval jig produces coils that are a little too symmetrical for my taste so I slightly modify the shape of the jig to make it a little more pointed at one end.  After painting with diluted acrylic medium the coils are allowed to dry and then cut from the jig.
 
  
 
and here are some attached to belaying pins
 

 

 
 
I am not entirely happy with how the look, but the more I make the better I get.  The only trouble is they use up more rope than you would think and  my light brown rope is fast running out!
 
John
 

Now it is time to put everything together.  Glue the step onto the deck assembly and insert the bolts.  Temporarily install the capstan onto its step.  Position the brakes to their free ends fit between the whelps and the bolted ends are on the beams.  Remove the capstan, drill holes for the brakes and install them, making sure they can rotate.  Install the hatch and its grating.  Insert the bolts into the chocks and whelps.  Finally place the capstan back on the step and insert the retaining pin below the step, making sure the capstan can turn.  Install the drumhead onto the capstan barrel and insert the bars into the holes.  
 
I hope some of you will give this project a try.  In a few weeks, I will start the build log for the advanced capstan project.



 
 

The cap is glued to the top of the upper drumhead.  The edge is rounded over prior to installation.  The iron ring is actually made from paper painted with black marker.  Before gluing the iron ring onto the drumhead, make sure the ink is color-fast with whatever finish you plan to use.  In this case, I used an archival marker and Watco's Danish Wood Oil Natural.  These pictures are taken before applying the finish.


The holes have been drilled for the bolts, eyebolts and pins.  Use a pin to prick the iron ring before drilling to prevent tear out.  The bolts are brass pins that were filed flat.  In these pictures, the finish has been applied.  The color contrast of the various wood species stands out now.

The eyebolts, capstan bar pins and chain have been installed.  The bar pins go all the way through the drumhead, securing the capstan bars during use.

There are six capstan bars. The picture shows the sequence of construction from left to right.  Cut the capstan bar blanks from square stock.  Using a razor saw, cut in the shoulder.  The part of the bar that inserts into the drumhead was removed with a chisel.  The bars were then tapered and the edges rounded off.  The hole for the swifter was drilled next.  Finally, insert the bar into the drumhead. Drill the hole for the bar pin by drilling through the previously drilled hole in the drumhead. 

 
 

The last step is to shape the chocks.  The upper chocks are convex and the lower ones are concave.  This is actually the capstan barrel from the advanced version but they are done the same way.

The next part to build is the drumhead.  Again, this is simplified to allow use of only hand tools.  There are five wood components to the drumhead:  two upper drumhead halves, two lower drumhead halves and the cap.  Other components include the iron ring, and miscellaneous bolts, ringbolts, pins and chain.  The two halves for the upper and lower drumheads are glued together.  They will be oriented 90 degrees to each other when the drumhead is assembled.  Draw the drumhead on the wood, using the glue line as the center point.  A compass works best for this.  I used a jeweler's saw to cut out the drumheads.

 
This capstan has openings in the drumhead for six capstan bars.  Mark the location for the bars on both parts, taking care that they line up with each other.  Using a razor saw, the outer edges of the slots were cut.  The rest of the wood was removed with a chisel.
  

The square top of the barrel fits into the lower drumhead.  Mark this opening on the lower drumhead and cut it out.  The easiest way to do this is to drill a hole just large enough to allow the blade from the jeweler's saw through it.  Detach the blade from one side of the saw, thread the blade through the hole, re-attach the blade to the saw, tension the blade, and cut the opening.  

Glue the two halves together, remembering to align them at 90 degrees to each other.  Clean up the openings for the bars.  Now that the two halves are glued up, finish sand the perimeter.

I spent a fun couple of days building Syren Ship Model Company's Winchelsea capstan. Having preciously built one for my Swan class model many years ago which took me a couple of weeks to do on the mill and lathe I was curious to see how Chuck's version compared. As expected it is amazingly good. Chuck has mastered the laser cutter and has figured out how to incorporate every detail of the real version, including the rings which are made of fiberboard and include all the perfectly spaced holes. My build sequence was slightly different as I wanted to paint mine red. If this wish to do this I suggest you use Tamiya tape to mask the "iron" bands between the capstans before painting. As well I found that placing the capstan drum assemblies in a slow speed rotary tool and turning for a couple of seconds on 320 grit sandpaper completely removed the char. Attached are a couple of photos. I need to de-dust the capstan and apply a coat of flat varnish but that's it. It'll end up in one of my cross-section cases.
 
Even if you've never scratch built a fitting I'd recommend you give this a try. It's almost fail-proof and priced very reasonably for the quality of the wood and laser cutting.
 

 

 

Having successfully trimmed back the futtock tops, the blanks for the inwales were cut. These posed several challenges. They are 2½" thick and wide, but their cross-section is a parallelogram, the angles changing constantly along the boat's side. I cut each out wider than the final width, bevelled the outer edge first, then fitted it to the boat. 
 
The next challenge was to locate stub toptimbers that support the tholes and wash strake. These pass through the inwale and have to be spaced correctly to 'miss' the futtocks. They are now marked and ready for cutting. Once the slots are cut, the inwale will be glued in and the inner edge shaped correctly.
 

The next step after adding the risers is to prepare for the inwales. For this, the tops of all the futtocks have to be cut down by 2". To do this without splitting the plank is tricky. A very sharp small chisel is used and the waste wood removed incrementally. It's a slow process!
 

You have probably seen this Contemp model.  But anyway...the Queen is prob a replacement because the original was lost.
 

 

 

Post Twenty-nine
 
Still in attendance to the Queen
 
Before I put paste to Royal head, I had a trial on a spare figure to get a feel of the how the paste worked, and its working and drying times.
 
The Queen will be wearing a small crown or coronet and I need to establish how this will fit on her hair.

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Having made a brass ring to form the base of the crown, I could start to form the hair and when the paste had started to set, the ring was placed on the head leaving an impression for the final fit.
 
I then had the task of making up the crown, a tiny thing of 5mm diameter by 5mm high.
 

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The fit looks ok.

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The parts were silver soldered together and gemstones added in the form of seed beads.

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Still some tweaking to do, I think the hairline across the forehead needs softening, but I feel that she will now make a credible 18thc figure.
 
I will leave it there now and return to fitting out the barge.
 
B.E.
14/05/21

Making the Chain Pumps...
 
As mentioned all of the wood parts are laser cut from boxwood.  You will get all the parts for the port side on one sheet and the starboard on another.  So just build one at a time.  The first part that needs our attention is the 7/32" thick core.
 
Step one-
 
Sand the laser char from all of the edges.   Take your time and keep the edges straight.   Dont bother sanding the front or back face as these will be covered up.  They will remain nice and flat if you dont touch them.  In addition....dont clean the char from the bottom of the piece.  Keep that flat as well.  But all of the edges including those two pump tubes at the bottom should be clean of char.  You can see one core that has not been cleaned of char yet.  Note the arrow...this will be important.
 

 
REALLY IMPORTANT:  For this mini kit you will see me call only for certain areas to be sanded free of laser char.  This is important for many reasons.   It has to do with the build sequence and keeping the parts properly sized and shaped.   Keep that in mind when you read through this and dont jump ahead and clean off all the char on every piece.  I will let you know when you can do so.  The results will be much better.
 
STEP 2 - 
 
Glue the bottom base of the pump into position.  Note that the extended, curved side is on the end of the pump where the arrow points.  Also note that I have NOT cleaned the char off of any of the edges yet.  That will come later.  But if you want...you can sand the top surface clean before gluing it in position.  
 

STEP 3 ...Glue the larger side panels onto the core.  Sit the bottom edge of these side pieces right down on the base.  Dont sand the char from the edges yet.  Make sure the arrows are pointing in the right direction.   They follow the arrow on the core.  The important thing with this step is to line up the center hole for the crank shaft.  That is crucial.
 
Because these layers are so thin they will bend and warp with titebond.   I used titebond so I can slide these pieces into position.  One side layer at a time.  Use clamps to prevent the layer warping....trust me it will lift up if you dont clamp it.  It is slightly over-sized all around except the bottom edge.  Just line up that hole!!
 

After both first layers are in position you can sand the char from certain edges.  Allow me to explain.  The photo below shows the sides sanded FLUSH with the core and clean from char.   But leave the rounded edges of the top and dont sand that at all.   But the little edges on either side should be sanded flush with the top of the core.  Note the back edge of the floor or base is now sanded as well as the back side is all flush with the core.
 
In that same photo you can see the next layer added to the back face of the pump.  This is there to show you why you must sand the ends flush with that first layer in position.  This next outer layer wont be flush and you will never get clean and neat otherwise.
 

The same is true for the other side....Note  how the first layer you put on is sanded flush with the edge of the core.  AND the top is also sanded flush but the rounded section is left alone.  Dont remove the char on that.  You want the rounded hood to be perfectly shaped.  Leave the char on it.  This is important again because the next layer will extend forward.  You can see it also added in the photo below.
 
You can also see that the floor or base is still not cleaned of char except for that one side which is all flush with the core.

STEP 4...
 
That next layer you saw in the previous photos can now be glued on the model.  But you should absolutely clean the char from edges of these before you do so.  Clean the edges before gluing.
 
  But as you can see....only clean the side edges and the top edge.   But leave the clamp in the center with the shaft hole alone.  Dont bother cleaning the char from the edges.  It is fragile and leaving it as is will look great.  Dont sand the bottom edge either because then the hole wont line up with the other layers. It will sit too low.   You can see how the back end of the pump is all flush....but this last layer will extend forward on the other side.   Start with the layer showing the cut-out for the plug first.  That should help you get alignment correct.
 
You can see the other sides layer ready for gluing.....all the edges you need to clean are sanded nicely.
 
STEP 5...I think...
 

As the photo above shows....now you can sand the edges of the base all around to clean up the char.   The front and back edges are sanded flush....nice and clean.
 
The extended side of the floor is also finally sanded clean.  Its starting to look like a chain pump now.  Now the fun parts...just a few little details to add.
 
STEP 6...
 
In this step you will be adding the two legs.  The fancy legs are cleaned of char and glued to the bottom side of the base.  Just remember to put it on the correct side.  One side is longer because of the mast partners.   The fancy legs go on the side shown.  Then do the other side which is sanded flush all around.  You can also glue the drain plug into position.  I left the char in place as it looks good that way.  It will stand proud of the chain pump box.
 
Then there are two long skinny pieces that are glued on the inside where the outside layers extend beyond the core.  You can see them on the chain pump plans.   Just clean them up and glue them on.  
 


 
Step 7...in that same photo you can see that the round hood for the chain pump has many thin boards that need to be glued in position.   This isnt difficult but they are small pieces.   You should bevel the edges slightly so they fit tightly.  If you dont bevel the edges the seams between each plank will be too wide.  I just lightly sanded a bevel by eye.  No need to measure and obsess about the angles.
 
Now if you are afraid the math wont work out and when you get to the other side you will be left with a space....fear not.  I also included two wider planks just for this occasion.  When you get close to planking the whole top of the hood....test a few dry fit planks to see how much space needs to be filled.  I did this when I had four remaining planks to add.   Turns out I only needed to adjust and use one wider plank.  You cant even notice it.  Sand the sides of the hood flush so its nice and neat when they are all added.  They are initially just a hair longer than needed.
 
To finish up the chain pumps....add a tiny length of 28 gauge black wire for the drain plug handle.   The add the tongue.  Thats the long metal piece on the front end of the pump.  I used a small length of 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip.  Just bend the end and round them off.  I blackened it and glued it in position.
 
Apply a coat of Wipe on Poly to bring out the nail patterns and you are good to go!!!!