MEDDO

Hi,
 
today reached a point of no return, the frames are in place...

with the help of the jig and the spacers it was easier then I was expecting. Still had to redo some of the frames in order to align them properly (that is where I am now...)

I played around with patterns of the treenails to fix the frames against the keel...
 

 
The pattern on frame B seems better but from what I read it was only adopted after 1811 (Sappings System?, can anyone confirm this) and the one on frame C was the one in practice between 1710-1811.
Next is the gunport lintels and sills then sanding, lots of sanding...
 
Hugo

Hi Michael.
Nice to see you back in your shipyard with the Halifax.
The wait for updates was worth it 😀
 
All the best.
Antony.

I came across this company a while ago while researching display cases. They make acrylic products and seem perfect for this purpose. http://kreativeacrylics.com/
 
Included is a photo from their website of a diorama display case. The base has grooves where the cover sits on top. I don't have the appropriate power tools at this point to craft a wooden base, but could always do this in the future. 
 
The dimensions of the completed model are 8.5" x 4" at its base and 3" tall. Feedback is much appreciated here on how much buffer to leave at each dimension so the model does not look suffocated. I'm thinking 1"?
Steve

Small update.  Finished the bits so next up is the rudder.
 

I really like this presentation.  Great job!

So I have been away for a while.  My practice went through a massive expansion/contraction/expansion etc etc.  Ended up working way too much.  I also got somewhat distracted for the last few months building a kayak.  I am finishing that up and am cleaning up the shipyard so I can start working again.  Here is a picture of where I am now.  
 
I like the new site design and wanted to see if I remembered how to get pictures uploaded etc.

Small update.  Finished the bits so next up is the rudder.
 

I really like this presentation.  Great job!

Small update.  Finished the bits so next up is the rudder.
 

I really like this presentation.  Great job!

I really like this presentation.  Great job!

Completed longboat! I appreciate everyone's interest and support throughout this project. I'm looking into a case as well since the overall size of the model is compact. I will keep you all posted. 
Steve


 

Well, its been an interesting week. The rope coils that were needed are now completed. I can see that this is an area that could use some further refinement and I will try to do that as the rigging continues. I tried to follow chuck's method of doing them, but came up a little short, I think. Also, I would like more rope available for re-tensioning should the need arise. In the end I came up with a different way that gives me a little more flexibility. Unfortunately, none of it can be used on the completed coils. Some of the photos are macro shots so the detail can be brutal. I referenced David Antscherls TFFM vol.4 pg 103 for making the rope coils.
 
The rope is wrapped around brass tubing of appropriate diameter. The pin makes space to pass the rope around the coil. A half hitch and a drop of glue secures things.

The original coils were done like this. The loop that goes over the belaying pin is one of the coil loops pulled up short and wrapped around the upper coil.

With the new technique the loose ends are cut off flush to the knot.

The way I did the completed rope coils can be seen on the left. The end of the rigging line was belayed, cut short and glued under the pin rail. The coil was then placed over the belaying pin. To demonstrate what I came up with afterwards I'll be using a free pin rail position on the right. Honestly though, I can't help but think that this has already been done. The rigging line is first belayed around the pin. Although not fully seen here, the blue painters tape was wedged behind the pin and pushed down to hold the rope while belaying. The free end is left long.

The rope coil was placed over the belaying pin with the knot behind the pin. It was then stretched with a 1/8" drill and given a coat of Badger "Clear Matte" acrylic.

This is the end result after removing the drill, hitching the loose end to the belaying pin and cutting the fall. Lots of rope to hold onto should the need to re-tension arise.

 
Mike
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the tips.  I finally got back home and was able to find some of the tools I have.  One set is a small <palm> carvers which someone gave me years ago.  They are definitely lowest quality though.  I am going to try to see if I can sharpen them up a bit though. I can feel the pits in the blades.  The little metal collars are also loose on half of them.  Much different than the surgical instruments I am used to using.

 
I also have these that I bough many years ago but never opened.
 

Thanks for the tips.  I finally got back home and was able to find some of the tools I have.  One set is a small <palm> carvers which someone gave me years ago.  They are definitely lowest quality though.  I am going to try to see if I can sharpen them up a bit though. I can feel the pits in the blades.  The little metal collars are also loose on half of them.  Much different than the surgical instruments I am used to using.

 
I also have these that I bough many years ago but never opened.
 

Thanks for the tips.  I finally got back home and was able to find some of the tools I have.  One set is a small <palm> carvers which someone gave me years ago.  They are definitely lowest quality though.  I am going to try to see if I can sharpen them up a bit though. I can feel the pits in the blades.  The little metal collars are also loose on half of them.  Much different than the surgical instruments I am used to using.

 
I also have these that I bough many years ago but never opened.
 

One thing is for certain, I need to work on the small tight curves.  Once again the camera takes what appears nice with the naked eye and exposes all the flaws.
 

Thanks for the tips.  I finally got back home and was able to find some of the tools I have.  One set is a small <palm> carvers which someone gave me years ago.  They are definitely lowest quality though.  I am going to try to see if I can sharpen them up a bit though. I can feel the pits in the blades.  The little metal collars are also loose on half of them.  Much different than the surgical instruments I am used to using.

 
I also have these that I bough many years ago but never opened.
 

Cheers Guys,
These are the completion photo's, before Pegasus  is enclosed in her case, which is still wip.
firstly the detail shots:













 
The Rigging shots

 





 
With the Longboat, which will be placed within the case, but not on the temporary stand as shown below.



 
Overall shots





 
B.E.
 

Ok, I'll throw a few cents in.
 
As a newbie scratch POF builder, I transitioned from "traditional" POB kits, however I did learn a lot from POB kits, mainly that the plans and instructions were mostly terrible ( exception being MS Confederacy IMO ).
I agree wholeheartedly with a lot of comments that having options for upgrading kits is great, but I think that's better left to the specialists like syren/crown etc.. to offer than the manufacturer ( it's not in their interest). Just check out the option kits available for a lot of plastic kits from third parties ( it's a huge business ).
Now I think I can say with reasonable confidence that a large amount of ship modelers want to build something with a history ( why so many Vic's and Connies ), but there are a lot of other ships with great history's that are being ignored but my point being that who wants to build 5 Vic's, we need to have choice, but who knows what they are interested in until they get inspired by seeing something different, ( DA comet, GH swiftsure, CP barge ).
 
I think what I'm trying to say is " if you build it, they will come" IF it's good quality, great plans and instructions, price reasonable for the subject matter ( $200 for a awesome barge, $800 for an awesome frigate, $1500 for an awesome first rate ).
 
Ben

Thank you for all the references. And thank you for completing and allowing us to  follow along with such a wonderful log.

Thank you for all the references. And thank you for completing and allowing us to  follow along with such a wonderful log.

It's both sad and joyous to see this ship finished, B.E.   I've thoroughly enjoyed the voyage.  But... I'm also looking forward to your next venture.  

Thank you for all the references. And thank you for completing and allowing us to  follow along with such a wonderful log.

I have this one on the shelf. When I get home tonight I'll take a look at it. My question is as long as the keel and bulkheads are  straight and the appropriate size does it really matter if they are chipped?  Ultimately they'll be covered as most of us use shims and filler blocks in any case to true up the lines.