MEDDO

The last bit to complete the rocker arms were the extension joints. This is where the extension arm slides into a short pocket to create the extension. I though about gluing 1/16” piece of wood to simulate the “box” bracket, but in the end. I just wrapped some thread around the arm with a dab of CA glue to create the illusion of a boxy bump on the arms. Most of imperfections will disappear under black paint and low light viewing conditions.

First, I tapered the rocker arms, then I created the handle brackets out of 1/16” brass tube. The problem that presented itself and which drove me crazy was that there was extraordinarily little surface area to bond the bracket to the arm. I threw away my two-part epoxy and bought fresh. The bond failed again. Once more the cured epoxy was more like a hard rubber. I could peel the epoxy off the brass with a dull knife. So, it was back to solder. Before every attempt, I cleaned all the surfaces with mild acid. It took nearly three tries per bracket till I finally got a solid bond.
 
Almost as frustrating, was the Y-branch bracket – how to make it and keep it strong? How do I create a 3-part joint and then connect it to the rocker arm? I came up with a solution but there is probable a better solution out there. I just didn’t think of it. My solution was to double twist two brass wires and create a kind of brass rope. I could then open up the braided strands to insert the rocker arm and handle. Once I had that, I lathered the brass rope with solder flux and solder paste and fired up the torch. The idea was the solder would fill in the voids in the rope making a solid piece. This too took numerous attempts. The excess solder was then filed off. I had to be careful here because I didn’t want to remove too much solder and weaken the bond…again.
 
I almost forgot, the handle material is music wire, very stiff. Wood would have broken, burned, and it doesn’t solder very well.

The bilge pump rocker arms have arm extensions so that the ship’s crew can consolidate the pumps for more working space when not in use. The photos of the actual ship show the bilge pumps in their stowed configuration with the rocker arms extensions removed and lashed to the pumps.
 
I plan to have the arms fully extended so the typical viewer can understand their function better. There are two kinds of rocker arm handles. The double pump has a “Y” branch to a double brackets for the handle while the quad pumps have a single bracket and a long handle connecting two pumps. To top it all off, the rocker arms are tapered to the handles from the extension joint.  These details required me to further refine my bilge pump plan.

Using a metal cutting #53 drill bit and my old Dremel drill stand as a drill press, I attempted to drill the 1/16” hole into the rocker arms where the re-enforcing discs were located. The #53 bit is just a tad smaller than 1/16” which give me a bit of a cushion when making the final hole adjustment. The precision of the stand leaves a little bit to be desired. My first attempt on the first bar worked in so far as making a hole. The problem was the hole was off just enough (about 3/128”) that it cut through the edge. This was repaired with more solder. The results are not polished products yet as there is still much to do.

Thanks All,
 
It always surprises me how that light pink of the good quality Swiss pear I got from Jeff darkens to that beautiful deep reddish hue after a few months, superb quality wood!
 I wish Jeff or someone of his caliber was still around, we shall miss him for a long time in this hobby!
 
ben

Thanks Everyone,
 
Work on the upper deck aft framing is almost complete and I just have to tie it in with the Wing Transom now.
Then there are the five trickier mid sections to complete the upper deck.

I know the new festool I just got is significantly quieter than the old dewalt it replaced

I know the new festool I just got is significantly quieter than the old dewalt it replaced

I know the new festool I just got is significantly quieter than the old dewalt it replaced

Michael - looking forward to seeing Cheerful develop, but I'm a little disappointed.  Was hoping there might be another Echo cross section in the works.
 
I've added the deck beams and ripped and sanded the scale 4" (1/16"x1/4" actual) deck planks.  I got a 6" wahuda jointer, and this was the first trial.  Took a few nights to get it dialed in, but it made cutting the planks a lot easier.  In the past I haven't had an easy way to get a completely flat side on the billet prior to thickness sanding.  With the jointer I was able to have two completely flat, perpendicular sides to my billet, and it took under a minute.  I only had to thickness sand one side to get the billet to 1/4". Made ripping the planks much easier, and had straighter planks with less blade marks to sand.  
 
 
 

All of the holes for the bolts have been drilled.  I then gave the hull a final sanding with 400 grit.  Time to start the process of installing the bolts and roves.  For anyone unfamiliar with the term, think of a rove as a washer, preventing the bolt head from digging into the planking.
 
The process (so far) is as follows:
   1.  make the roves,
   2.  attach the roves,
   3.  sand the roves,
   4.  insert the bolts
   5.  file the bolts
   6.  go batty from doing this several thousand times.
 
1.  I tried several different types and thickness of copper to make the roves, including self-adhesive copper designed for printed circuit boards.  The self-adhesive copper worked perfectly until, on a trial piece, the adhesive failed with application of the finish.  It might have worked with acrylic finish but I have never used one that I liked.  So I decided upon 0.002" copper sheeting for the roves and 16 gauge copper wire for the bolts.  This fits snugly in a #77 drill bit hole.  All my holes were drilled with resharpened carbide drill bits.  You need a steady hand because any twisting will cause them to break but they drill a consistently sized hole.  I get mine at Drill Bit City.  They run about $1 apiece.  The roves are made with a 1.25 mm hole punched typically used in the jewelry industry.  Mine were purchased at Rio Grande.   https://www.riogrande.com/product/swanstrom-1-25mm-hole-punching-pliers/111785




2.  I tried various adhesives to attach the roves.  Medium viscosity CA worked the best for me.  To prevent bleed onto the wood, I dip the back of the rove onto a drop of CA and then wick the excess off on a piece of paper before applying it onto the hull.  Once they have dried, I pierce the rove for insertion of the bolt.
 
3.  Next, I use 400 grit sandpaper to gently sand over the roves.  This smooths out their appearance and lets me know which ones were not securely attached.  The first picture is before sanding and the second is after.


4.  I hardened the copper wire by stretching it and then inserted it into the hole.  The fit is tight and only a few holes needed supplementary adhesive, in this case PVA glue.
 
5.  Even though I used a side cutter, the end of the bolt needed to be filed flat.  In the following picture, one can see all of the steps.  From left to right, sanded roves, bolts, filed bolts and unsanded roves.  The effect of filing is subtle in the photo but is more obvious in real life.  
 
6.  What you see here took three hours.  So if you don't hear from me for the next month, you will know why.

 
 
 

Nice ladder looks like it fits perfectly 

Depending on your particular situation I would recommend something for dust control. Depends on your shop but proper dust control is really important. I personally just got a nice shopvac with a HEPA filter on it which will help quite a bit and for Christmas I think I’m gonna end up with a actual air filtration system.

It’s really coming together. Are you using the liver of sulfur stuff or some other product?
 
 
 
think I am going to try the Cheerful next

Depending on your particular situation I would recommend something for dust control. Depends on your shop but proper dust control is really important. I personally just got a nice shopvac with a HEPA filter on it which will help quite a bit and for Christmas I think I’m gonna end up with a actual air filtration system.

Depending on your particular situation I would recommend something for dust control. Depends on your shop but proper dust control is really important. I personally just got a nice shopvac with a HEPA filter on it which will help quite a bit and for Christmas I think I’m gonna end up with a actual air filtration system.

Those margin planks look really nice.
 
I have been contemplating this quite a bit recently

Depending on your particular situation I would recommend something for dust control. Depends on your shop but proper dust control is really important. I personally just got a nice shopvac with a HEPA filter on it which will help quite a bit and for Christmas I think I’m gonna end up with a actual air filtration system.

I really enjoy my disk sander as well, its not Byrnes one but does the job. As mentioned above a nice shop vac is a really nice thing to have, back in march Costco had a sale on really nice on a Dewalt shop vac that may have been 100 bucks. Here is the link it looks like its still only 100 but i use it every day i would say
 
https://www.costco.com/dewalt-10-gallon-wetdry-vacuum.product.100491610.html
 
Bradley

I find the disk sander I have (unfortunately not the Byrnes one) very useful. 
 
Also do you have the cross-cut sled for the saw? I'm using this a lot.

My first response when my wife asks me this "How much can I spend?"

I just one of these to help the filter on my shop vac clogging up so quickly  
 

 
Haven't bought the bucket for it yet though.

I appreciate and thank you all for the likes and kind comments.  Always nice to read and inspiration to keep moving forward with the log. 

Depending on your particular situation I would recommend something for dust control. Depends on your shop but proper dust control is really important. I personally just got a nice shopvac with a HEPA filter on it which will help quite a bit and for Christmas I think I’m gonna end up with a actual air filtration system.

I hope you both go for it, I don’t regret it a bit (well there has been a moment or two, but I got over it, lol).  With the monograph, mini and starter kits, some good build logs, and Chuck’s ready advice you have all you need. I write my log with the hope of inspiring/helping someone to build Cheerful, so I hope you do.