mtdoramike
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Everything posted by mtdoramike
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$533.00 usd ainht a bad price for that kit and at 50 inches, she'll be a biggun for sure.
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Thanks for the heads up James, this is going to be an awesome kit, from the pics this is going to be one of the most detailed kits of the Biz around. Any idea what the asking price will be?
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Thanks for the reply, it's a nice kit, but I'm not actually interested in the kit. I'm not really building tall ship models anymore. I mainly wanted to educate you a bit on your asking price, you are under cutting yourself badly by asking $50.00 for this kit. It's no longer being manufactured from what I can tell, so if you can find a Latina Charles W. Morgan Whaler (if the kit is untouched and all together) expect to spend between $250.00-$300.00. On the used market $150.00-$200.00. If I were still building tall ship models, I would have snatched this up at $50.00 + shipping. Good luck on your sale, mike
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Is this kit still for sale?
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Is this the Charles W. Morgan whaling ship, not familiar with the Charles C. Morgan?
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Welcome to the forums, rigging is one of my favorite parts of the build because it makes a tall ship a tall ship and has such a dramatic effect once completed. There are numerous rigging books on the market, which will help you out.
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Very good job on the Prince. I like the weathering and the paint job.
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- prince of wales
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hahahahahaha, everything. Don't you mean malarkey?
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There should be enough room for the motor and the prop. I ordered a Graupner 600 motor for her. It looks like it is going pretty well right now, but one thing I have learned in my old age is, ( for every positive action, there is always a negative reaction and I'm sure there will be one here, but it hasn't shown itself yet.
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I'm replacing the two pieces (K7 & K6), which goes on the bottom of the stern and K6 is supposed to be removeable to allow access to the rudder arm, but since I'm making a new access panel on the top, this is no longer needed. So I'm replaces these two pieces with a solid piece of plywood. My main issue was to make sure I was going to have enough clearance between the prop and the rudder since I was moving the rudder forward about 1/2".
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OK, I bit the bullet and started the modifications to the stern by removing two of the rear frames. The critical part of this is, how many bulk heads need to be removed because you have to be able to mount the rudder and still have room for the drive shaft and prop. Ideally, it would be nice to have at least a 1/2" between the rudder and the prop.
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CD, It may have been this build thread from a Radio Control forum. The OP and builder Legendary Pat Trittle did a splendid job on one of the first production Typhoons. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?291645-Dumas-Typhoon-Kit-Review. If you can't tell, Pat is kind of a hero of mine and I only wish I were as good a modeler as Pat Trittle, maybe one day.
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OK, after studying the issue of the rudder access door being under the stern section of the boat and attached with screws and with the possibility of water being able to get in through it, I have found a probable solution. If I remove three supports in the stern section behind the rear cockpit, I can mount the rudder servo and be able to access the rudder from the top and eliminate the access door from the bottom of the boat. The modification will be where the blue tape is located. I will have to make the access door for the top of the stern, but shouldn't be a big deal (famous last words) hahahahaha.
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I ordered some mahogany veneer and finally got it in today. I'm going to use it to cover the front and middle cockpit floors. The instructions call for staining it, but I think it would look better with the mahogany veneer.
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I agree with you to an extent, and yes, if you are going to spend years and thousands of hours building a model, most would like it to be as historically accurate as possible. Unfortunately I'm not one of them. I try to make as accurate a reproduction as I can with any model that I build, but I don't concern myself with historical accuracy nor due I proport any of the models that I have built and intent to build to be anything more than display pieces. Now, if there is a glaring inaccuracy such as a rounded stern versus a square stern then I either stir clear of that kit or I bash it to make it the way it should be. But I don't sweat the small stuff. I do however spend hours researching a particular model that I'm building or intend to build and try and represent that when finished. I have found that model folks especially buyers are less concerned about historically accuracy as they are about that Beautiful rigging and fist and finish of the model. Most realize that if you want a historically accurate model then you will have to pay a lot more for that model.
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I wasn't referring to scratch building per-say, I was more referring to kit bashing, where you get the benefit of the majority of the kit being pre-made or manufactured and you just fix the things that you have found to be inaccurate as an example Roger's views on the Model shipways Civil War Steam Picket with the rounded stern, if it'd found to be historically inaccurate, then square it off by modifying the stern.
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If you are a purist and strictly want an accurate representation of what ever you want to build then why not build it that way? You will not get a historically accurate model from a kit alone, unless you modify it and do tons of research to get that historical accuracy. Take for example: most kits use bulkheads rather than timber framing for the skeletal structure of the ship and use a lot less bulkheads than tibering. They do this to make the kit affordable, quicker and easier to build. Lets face it, it takes a lot of dedication to spend two years building a ship model and if you add in complete historical accuracy, look more at 5-10 years. But to answer your question, Model Shipways or Bluejacket would be my top two pics that I have built and come the closest to what your asking about. A kit of any kind is only a starting point, it is up to the builder to make it what it will be or what the builder wants it to be.
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WOW Tim, she is beautiful and that shade of green below the boot topping at the water line really sets it off. I was on the fence about using the same shade of green that I used on the seats for the bottom of the Typhoon and maybe going with a different color altogether, but after seeing your Miss Severn, I'm going to use the same shade of green.
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Amen brother, the ONLY time I build strictly authentic is when I build for a client who wants it historically accurate. But when I build for myself, I experiment and do what I like and don't give two hoots and a darn who likes it or not. But you do have folks that are strictly purist who believe in building only historically accurate representations of a subject and to those I say great for you and if that is the case then build your own the way you want it built. You build is coming along beautifully Mog, I especially like the wooden deck, it gives the PT a bit of class for sure. If I build one, I'm going with the planked deck also, I love the look of it. mike
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OK, this is as close to green as I'm going to go, like, love it or hate it. The paint color is called Satin Sea Glass.
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Thanks CD, this is the first one that I have built that requires you to install the seats and side panels BEFORE the planking.
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I have the seats all made up and test fitted with the side panels to make sure of fit and finish, and it looks good to me. Now I have to remove them and prep the seats and side panels for painting and here is where the rub comes in. The instructions call for green paint for the seats as well as the anti fouling paint for the hull, I dislike green so this presents a bit of a dilemma. Now if I were a purist, which I'm not, I would go strictly by the traditional colors, but I may deviate from the traditional a little here. My wife hates to send me to get paint, especially a specific color paint because she never know what I will bring back. She has often said, if they sold plaid in a can, I would so up with it instead white.
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I actually prefer a few imperfections myself, it makes it look hand built versus factory built. I get a kick out of builders who build a model to perfection only to distress it and give it that old and weathered appearance. I asked a fellow modeler, who was above my skill set at the time and a known perfectionist why he would spend an so much time and effort on a build only to weather it to the point that it almost looks like a ghost ship, who will know the difference in the end? He simply replied "I will". Now that was a true craftsman and someone I strive to emulate on every build I do, but some how I always feel that I have fallen short. But he pointed out to me that this is the same way he feels after every build as well. It goes to show how even expert modelers if there is such a thing is not 100% satisfied with their builds in the end either. Your doing a fantastic job on her.
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