Jack12477

Yes, That's about what I paid back when.

Marc, you can get the PC program and related supplies that Denis is talking about here at DecalGear
 
You can also get the decal paper at Hobby Lobby as well as the Decal Bonder.  I used this on my Marie Jeanne to create the ship's name and ID plus the Coat of Arms decal for the sail.

Thanks to the many PM's here and on FB ON MY 74th birthday.
Great news from my dear son and daughter who called this morning to wish Dad a happy BD, and inform me that they were treating the old man to a trip to Boston and three days to take in all of the details of the Constitution first hand. Not only that, but my son is going to join me there in Boston. That will be a DOUBLE treat!
 
Meantime, back in the ship yard.....
Reason for the lul in progress is due to a ton of off-ship work.... mostly related to the realization that I will eventually run into a s....t-pot load of cannons and carronades including carriages and rigging material for each. All being a scale I had no idea what I will need.... etc.
 
I hate the thought of completing her gun deck and then beginning the arduous task of building and installing all those cannons. I would much rather, and hope to build and install her cannons as the gun deck bulwarks and deck planks are developed.
 
So, the entire last several days has been focused on building prototypes for her long guns and carronades.
 
Hopefully, I will be able to post a few progress shots tomorrow.

Hi Guys,
 
Well I finally got my act together and made some thimbles using Chuck's techniques shown on the the Cheerful build log. Like so many other things in this avocation, it is both easier and harder than it seems.
 
Once I got the "touch" and made the appropriate sized blunt points to turn the collar it was easy to knock out bunches of them. The smallest thimble is made from Albion 1.5 mm thin walled brass tube. Chuck made the point that this stuff is very soft and easy to cut (there's a link to a video on the Cheerful log). This actually gave me more trouble than any other aspect of making these. I knew I was working with metal and it took a long time before I found out just how much of a soft touch it took. I was using so much pressure that not only did I cut the tube, but I scored the brass rod I had inserted into the tube. With the K&S I had on hand, I didn't have much luck rolling against the exacto blade, so I used a jeweler's saw to cut the blanks.
 
I made two blunt points of different sizes to roll the collars out of some steel common nails. I cut off the heads, chucked them into my drill press, used a file to create a rounded cone, and polished with some sand paper. A few light taps on the mandrel and done.
 
Best,
John
 
Ps. This was my first shot at seizing the eyes and I used some some of #8 synthetic fly tying thread. Neither CA or diluted PVA would stick to it and the clove hitches I used wouldn't hold. Next time around I used some #8 Unithread.....much better. J.
 

 

Hello Sjors. Good to hear from you.

Hey, here you are !!!
Nice build     
The knifes are sharp, workplace clean.....and no box ( yet )
Ok, I'll be waiting.
In the mean while some popcorn perhaps ?
 
Sjors
 

More getting ready.  I just changed all knife and scalpel blades. Sharpened the rest. Changed sandpaper in various sanding blocks.

Thanks Charlie. A fellow New Yorker!! We moved from Manhattan to Astoria, then East Elmhurst then Floral Park before moving to Long Island.

Hi! Regarding bulwark colors the answer is it varied. The british preferred red and syren likely has red in alot of models due to her being a captured ship. The states used green but I imagine also red and in time white. Basically whatever was cheap and available. For more info on colors id recommend a copy of nrg's ship model shop notes II.

Thanks again for your kinds remarks! 
 
I made the seat cushions while waiting for paint on the hull to dry completely before having to mask it off. If masking tape is applied too soon it will leave impressions in the paint. I started the cushions using 3/16" scrap plywood. Cut the perimeter shape and hardened the exposed side walls with CA to prevent delamination of the plywood down the road. I then cut and formed wrinkles in the cushion and filled the top wood grain with glazing putty which also softened the wrinkles more. I added the piping using 1/32" solder and pressed it into the wrinkled edges as it was glued around the top perimeter. The two ends overlapped and were cut together to butt fit.

 

 
Here they are with the final paint color that was sprayed with Satin Finish to knock down the gloss.
 

 
Once the hull was dry I masked off the lower hull to prevent over spray on the hull finished colors. I use paper towel sections since they absorb the paint and do not support paint runs like so other materials. Here is an image of the upper hull sprayed the Chalky Blue.
 

 
While waiting for the Blue set I painted the cut surfaces of the starboard and port running lights and then added 5 minute epoxy to build up and shape the lenses for all three with the center light clear.
 

 
Once the Blue was set came the time consuming masking off of the Blue surfaces to paint the Sand and Limestone textured horizontal surfaces. Patience and 1/4" masking tape is required to do the job correctly. Here are the results when all the masking is removed.
 

 

 

 
I will next paint the inside of the work deck compartments Black, touch up the hatchway Black due to over spray. Then onto the eye candy small details starting with fittings and as time progresses the engine build up.
 
GREAT NEWS!!! I talked with a friend who wanted to borrow some pictures of my builds and he shared with me that he bought Scale Hardware and is in the process of adding them to his site which may be up and running soon. https://www.modelmotorcars.com I have suggested that he think about selling the various rivets in bulk packs for ship builders, and perhaps a sponsor for this site. Stay tuned!
 
 

She continues to impress, Ken.
 
John

Ken:
Great work as usual.  A very attractive model.  Great news about Scale Hardware!  I buy a lot from them and was very unhappy when the doors closed.  Glad it was bought up and I can get parts again. 
 
Kurt

Thank you for the visits, the "likes" and the comments.   
 
Not an update, just some feedback on comments and questions..
 
 
 
Uh... rats.   I really need a proofreader I guess before hitting "post".     
 
 
Good question on the Hahn style.  I have no answer at this moment.  Both have their disadvantages and advantages.  Getting to the interior is a problem for me with the Hahn method.  Now that the forest is gone, I see some things that need to be fixed on the interior. 
 
 
 
Miniature chain saw? I wish.  I used a combination of jewelers saw and X-Acto saws.  
 
 
 
I'm happy also.  The aircraft carrier look got to me.

Started to add detail to the deck, cool times ahead!!!

Deck went on last night, before I glued it down I tucked a message sealed in a zip lock bag between the bulk heads, I hope it is a distant future descendant of mine who finds it. (It has to survive the current batch first, that will be a challenge with 6 Grandkids). ;)
 
The other pic might be useful, prior to planking the hull I taped the deck on and ran a fine line felt tip roughly round the bulkheads, these locations were then easily transferred to top surface so I knew where to put pins and land on timber below.
 
 

Hi Cathead,
                  Sounds good idea, I'll try it out, I have some more detailing to do first but should see it on the model tomorrow or Monday, I assume it would represent the waterline, is that right? I'll see if I can find a sample pic of a mud line. Thx for the tip, I having a problem making it look real, but this might help.

If you're going to weather her that heavily, you might consider adding a "mud stripe" such that the bottom 1/2-2/3 of the hull are consistently stained darker, to mimic the effects of river water. It would be a more realistic look than random weathered spots.Just a thought, you can certainly decide what looks best to you!

Hi again,
            The hull has 2 coats of wash on it now, white & green, I have also added some detail rust deposits and a little dry brush work.
I'm not over pleased with the results, it's not what I was hoping for but still fairly easy to repaint if this aging process does not work out.
I have some more detail to add with a brush and I will decide at that point what paint job the Chap gets.
I have now glued the deck together and I need to mount that before continuing the paint job on the hull, so it's off to the garage to spray the deck with auto undercoat Red Oxide spray can from Krylon.
Here's a couple of pics showing the latest.
Thx for reading...

.............and the white stripe.

Thx Em, I want to see your 'new' room too, pics looked good, plenty of room for models!!

That looks like quality work dad. Gonna pop by and look this weekend.

Stage 1 of painting the hull, next step will be adding a white stripe to the side, stick on, not painted on.
 
 
 

Nice boat, Nenad. The others might turn out better: Practice makes perfect. The prototypes you can send to Piet

Step by step, my friend. First to see will this work for me and my "discovering of hot wather"
 
 
 
Second ? Just second ? There will/would be third or more ...
 
Old Latin saying: Repetitio  mater studiorum est

Hi Nenad.

Looks promising! Second time lucky and I'm sure it'll work out well.

Cheers

Patrick