JSGerson

I don't have photos, but would the plans from the US Navy do?

Jon

24422 - Spar Deck General Arrangement Taken from Work.pdf

I did a search for another image of your cannonade picture and I did find one slightly larger as well as a drawing of a USS Constellation 32 pd Carronade by Jim Griffiths, a nautical artist. I hope these are of some help.

Jon

In order to rig the topsail yards lifts and halyards I had to first install double 3 mm blocks from the crosstrees (which should have been installed earlier, etc. but I’m repeating myself…again).

BTY: When constructing the cross trees, both the Hunt practicum and the MS plans showed two “wings.” Those are the supports perpendicular to the beam of the ship. However, Mamoli ‘s plan showed two and three wings depending on which  sheet of the plans you were looking at. I only noticed it now!!??

Topsail yards

Before any more rigging could be installed to the Main yards, the Topsail yards had to be hung next. They were installed also in the same manner as the main yards but with a few differences. The Mains had two heavy lines through blocks each to suspend the yards. They also had lines wrapped around the yards to hold them against the masts which were tied down at the deck. The topsail yards were held with a single line that went through the mast and split into separate lines that went to the side rails through a series of blocks. To hold the yard against the masts, the Mamoli kit just looped rope around the yard and mast and lashed to ends together. The MS kit plans showed parrels. According to David Antscherl, the parrel ribs are 14” long or 5.5 mm at 1/64 scale. I chose to go with the parrels and used the 6 mm parrels (close enough) sold by Amati.

Mainsail Yard Lifts

My first thought was to install the cross jack yard next and work my way forward to the main and fore masts installing their topsail yards. But checking the plans I decided to install the mainsail yard lifts first. Starting at the main mast, the 3 mm blocks that should have been installed when the masts were being assembled (am I being repetitive?), needed to be installed on the mast cap. They were a bit awkward to do, but they got done. The lift line went from the cap block just installed to the top block of the double blocks at the tip of the yard, back through the cap block and down to, through, and tied off at a kevel. The only problem -  no kevels were installed in the location indicated on the plans.

Back when I was following Bob Hunt’s practicum exclusively, he stated there were 8 kevels that needed to be made and installed. I did as he instructed, but he was wrong, there were 10. The missing kevels (Mamoli No. 121A port and starboard) located at the start of the aft upper deck had to be put in now. Not only that, but the Mamoli plan No 8 has an error – the diagram showing the front view of the main mast has the lift line going to kevel No. 89A instead of No. 121A. Kevel 89A is for the foremast.

Making the kevels was no problem, installing them was quite another. Due to their location; I needed a pair of right angled tweezers due to the interference of the stays, ratlines and the inward lean of the bulwarks. Not like forceps, but more like a “Monkey” (Spanner) wrench concept.  The closest I found is sold by Micro Mark. But even if I did have this instrument, I don’t think it would have done what I wanted in this situation.

MicroMark Ear Polypus

My first attempt resulted in disaster as I dropped the kevel and it fell into the bowels of the model never to be seen again due to the model’s open planking. Another kevel was made. My first attempt was made with CA glue which required a good flush contact immediately. That didn’t happen. My second attempt, I used PVA glue which allowed me to adjust the position once I made initial contact with the bulwark. The second kevel was installed was just as tricky but without incident.

What really kills me is that I knew the kevels were missing for quite some time and could have installed them earlier and possible made my life a bit easier. I knew because while reading someone else’s Rattlesnake build log (forgive me, I’ve forgotten whose it was) this very problem was discussed. I failed to act on it quickly and it slipped my mind. The fore mast main yard and Cross jack were installed very similar. In hindsight, I could have hung the Crossjack first without any problems.

Since you are working on the hammock netting, here are two US Navy plans for the frame forgings.

Jon

013-09-2009 - Forged Hammock Net Frame.pdf

19043001 - Hammock Stowagw Forgings.pdf

That is some fancy display box! So now the question is: where are you going to display the model? I'm not thinking so much as in what room, but what does the box sit on to display the model? I've been wrestling with this problem in contemplation of the completion of my Rattlesnake.

Jon

Got it, thank you!

Always a pleasure to read your build log.

You mentioned you "used a technique described by Steve Wheeler in the January/February 2009 issue of Ships in Scale." I bought the CD archive of Ships n Scale and thought I was in luck because it goes as recent as 2009. Unfortunately I could not find the article you referenced. I searched the keyword oars and got zip. Searching for Steve Wheeler generated a lot of articles, but nothing stood out as the article on oars. Could it be hidden in some article on a different subject with a side reference to oars?

Jon

Let me start out by saying I have images for over fifty different models and build logs of the USS Constitution. I am collecting them to help me when I start my model (when ever that may be). I checked every one of them and for those which showed a clear image of the skylight, you sir, have made the best. I found only two other builders with whom I would even consider a near second or third place. You out shined them all.

Jon

If I knew then what I know now, a better choice would be to thread the blocks as soon as the blocks were installed and have them coiled up with a clip until it's time to actually rig the lines. I was/am trying to work by the rule of rigging from the inside and working my way outward and from bottom to top somewhat in the manner of how the actual ship would be rigged. Others opt to build the masts and their associated rigging as much as possible off the model. Each method has its pros and cons. In this case, pre-rigging the blocks would have been better.

Jon

Well the fore main yard has now been hung. It actually took me less time than the main yard but I was set back first, by breaking off the starboard fore castle stair railing from the waist. Not only was it knocked off, but I somehow lost the upper stanchion which obviously had to be refabricated. Second, by somehow catching the bowsprit yard haul-in block that is attached to the top of the fore stay. It got pull off which meant I had to tie back on. I thought it would be a cinch (pun intended). But like we all know, Murphy rules: it’s never as easy as it looks. The problems were the usual: confined space to work in, not enough fingers, fingers are too big, etc. Here is what she looks like now. Please note there are still a LOT of final tie offs to be done, gun ports to repair, etc.

WOW! you have been busy! Again beautiful work.

Jon

Antscherl's method is: "...once released from the serving machine, cut the ends on a long diagonal...Glue the ends..." The problem I had was cutting the ends. If done exactly as described, the serving is cut and begins to unravel. 

Here is his method from a handout he passed out during a demonstration he gave at a past NRG Conference. It adds a few more details.

BTY, Blue Ensign's method (the one that I could find) is for eye splices, not line splices.

Jon

I didn't double-up my bobstay. I didn't know at the time I rigged it that it should have been because both the Mamoli and the MS plans did not show it that way. You did good.

According to Jame Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War the splice (which needs to be made on the model) lay in the grove of the heart (or deadeye). You placed it in the stem, but it won't matter except for the purest because in either case it will be hidden.

I don't know how you made your splice, but when I have to make them, I unravel the two ends, butt them together so that the loose strands overlap and lie on the other's end. I then apply some diluted PVC glue and hold with my fingers until nothing comes apart when I let go. I've have problems of them coming apart if the dilution is too thin. In this case because the line is served, I would leave a length of serving thread to continue the wrap around the splice which also gives it physical strength.

Nice work

Jon

It always helps to have the right tools for the job. Well done.

If I were to do that same task today, I would have had to use wood stock, a saw, straight edge, a micrometer, hand files, sand paper, glue, and paint. I know it wouldn't have looked as good as yours.

Jon

Thanks again for providing those beautiful pictures and great explanations. I will probably buy one of those new toys in the future before I start my Conny after all, it's only money 8-)

Jon

Ah yes, Cast Your Anchor. I've dealt with them before, but it's been a while. I'll have to check in with them more often. Thanks for your quick reply.

Jon

I have no experience with a lathe, let alone a metal lathe, but I assume one was use for making the capstan top as well as the inset underside for the indexing pin. How did you initially cut the disc and then hold it in place to spin it on the lathe to create its final diameter and inset?

Jon

Very lovely, clean looking, hull. A word of caution: DO NOT smash a bottle of champagne on the hull during your launch party. 8-) 

Jon

 

 

 On this build I actually need little nails to attach the chainplates, but the ones included in the kit are about three times too big to fit the holes in the chainplates. I had to buy new ones. They're about the size of a #75 drill.

Out of curiosity, what was your source for the #75 nails?

Jon 

The new block positions left very little wiggle room for rigging and that was before all of the other factors were considered:

• Getting underneath the fighting tops just to look at the blocks on the underside was difficult
• Actually seeing the rigging holes in the blocks very difficult
• When they could be seen, the blocks were not necessarily angled such that the rigging holes were facing in a direction to optimize rigging
• Confined working space due to interference with other lines
• Use of headset magnifiers and eyeglass clip-ons magnifiers reduced depth of field to zero – I couldn’t tell what was in front or behind of what. I was constantly grabbing for things with my tweezers that weren’t where I thought they were and running into rigging the was blurred so strongly, they were invisible
• Because of the magnifiers, the working distance was reduced and getting one’s face and hand close enough for focal range of the magnifiers was deterred by existing rigging
• If I could hold the rigging line in a pair of tweezers to try to rig the block, I could not brace my hand on anything to steady it
• If I could actually get the line to the block, the block could move at the slightest touch because it was just hanging there without support

It took a lot of concentration, patience, and tenacity sometimes taking anywhere from 5 minutes to two hours just to rig one block.  There are six blocks on either side of the mast for a total of 12 blocks per mast and there are two masts to rig this way. .I had to stop after no more than two hours, successful or not.

Surprisingly, if the stars and the planets lined up just so, and if good fortune smiled at me, the rigging line slipped right through the block. However, some of the block rigging was faked by wrapping the line that was supposed to go through the block, around the block tie used to connect it to the fighting top. It’s not what I wanted to do, but it was all I could do. Lucky one would be hard pressed to see my cheats.

Just recently, Blue Ensign, a highly regarded builder posting here on ModelShipWorld.com, showed an image of his Pegasus foremast top blocks. I noticed his blocks hung a bit lower than mine which probably makes rigging them much easier. I wish I had known that a year ago.

Once the lines passed through the blocks, they were terminated at the pin rail on the forecastle with some GS Hypo fabric glue. Since more lines have to be installed on the main yard, I was afraid they may affect the tensioning on these lines. The fabric glue can be easily removed to re-tension if necessary. Once I feel confident that the lines are properly set, I will add the rope coils to the pin rails. Now I have to do it again for the fore main yard.

Now came the part I’ve been dreading ever since I installed them last year – rigging the blocks under the Main and Foremast fighting tops. If you may remember, I decided to rig crow’s feet because it was shown on the Harold Hahn plans and it looked like an interesting project. Neither Model Shipways nor Mamoli showed it in their plans. As a result of creating the crow’s feet, the blocks which were tied to the edges of the top in the kits’ plans had to be move to the underside of the top platforms. 

I was just checking my PMs and noticed that the last PM I replied to your request last month was rejected and returned to me again as:

Technical details of permanent failure:
Google tried to deliver your message, but it was rejected by the server for the recipient domain modelshipworld.com bymail.modelshipworld.com. [205.234.253.68].

The error that the other server returned was:
550 No Such User Here

I had made three attempted replys to your PM, but did not see the last rejection until now. If you could provide me with an alternate email address, I will re-attempt to send you the info you requested.

Jon

I am still working on my first real build but plan to construct the Constitution in the future. At this stage I am planning to include the rivets because I see them on the real ship. Even though they are small and may be over looked by the casual observer, it does give texture and authenticity to the model.

As an example, I've included tree nails in my Rattlesnake build. I did not enhance the contrast or in any way make make them conspicuous so at a slight distance they are not noticeable. As the observer is drawn closer to the model by just looking at it, more and more detail is revealed. It is that act of discovery that delights the observer. As many modeler know, there is a lot of detail that is almost impossible to see (for God's eye) but somehow the effect of that detail is felt. Finally, the detail that is included is up to the builder to the extent that makes him/her feel good about making the model in the first place.

That is my personal humble opinion

Jon