JSGerson

In addition I went to the NRG Convention in San Diego CA. The hotel was a couple of blocks from the waterfront where the nautical museum was as well as other activities, so it was well within walking distance. The weather was perfect, the convention was great, and I was exhausted by the time I got back to South Carolina. Unfortunately I had to take the” redeye special” flight (no other choices) so I was up for 36 hours from the time I got up Sunday morning till I arrive at home Monday around 11:00am. I tried to get some shuteye on the plane but those seats are not designed for sleeping.

I next wanted to add rail netting to the mast tops before I continued with the rigging. Neither Mamoli’s nor Model Shipways’ instructions addressed this so I had to wing it based on what I saw some other builds. Using the same black tulle I used on the bowsprit netting, I made some aborted attempts trying to figure out how to attach it to the railings.

What I finally came up with seemed to work. First I made a netting template for each top as each was slightly different from each other and cut the tulle to shape for each. Tulle is very flimsy and does not hold its shape well; it will distort at the slightest tug. I had noticed on actual ships where netting was used, the netting had a boarder, be it rope or canvas or something, where the lacing was attached for support.

Using masking tape, I taped the long edges of the tulle, flipped the tulle over and taped again matching the first tape now on the now underside. Then I trimmed the tape so that only a thin strip remained all the while matching the shape and size of the template. The tape strip was then painted black.

Finally the netting was slipped into place and glued with GS Hypo Fabric Cement. It has the consistency of “airplane glue,” dries transparent, and is flexible.

Wow, has it been almost 6 weeks since I last updated my log? Well the progress I’ve made really does not reflect the lapsed time period (as usual). In order to add the belay pin and cleat rope coils, I first wanted to tighten their respective lines. In doing so I found that some lines went to the wrong pin or cleat and others were twisted around other lines. That all had to be corrected before the coils could be added. 

Depending on the wood the dowels are made of, they can be easy or hard to work with. For my Rattlesnake I believe I used the kit's dowel for the lower portion of the masts, the rest I used square stock boxwood which worked well. For the yards, because my model was all natural wood, I used walnut I cut myself because I needed them dark. I avoided basswood which I find too soft and it doesn't sand as smooth and clean, or hold an edge as boxwood. Because the masts and yards are round, square, and octagonal in cross section at various points, I found it easier to shape square stock than round.

Jon

Sorry for the redundant question on the masts. You've accomplished so much in such a short time I had forgotten that you did describe how the masts were assembled back in April. I had to go back through your log to refresh my memory. Thanks for being patient with me.

Jon

Those tops look great! How did you create the half bands on the lower part portion of the masts and what did you use for the bands in the square upper part? I'm trying to gleam all the detail I can for when I start my build.

Just realized, I hope you didn't glue the caps on, they need to be removed to add the second step masts!

Thanks 

Jon

I had the same choices you did when I started rigging my Rattlesnake. Having never rigged a three masted model before, I looked at what everybody else did. The Robert Hunt practicum I was following used the "rig the masts and yards off the ship" method. The book I was also following by David Antscherl, The Fully Framed Model, Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780 was a "do as much as you can off ship and install it on the ship" method. By this I mean most of the blocks and some rigging were installed on the mast and yards off ship while the most of the rigging was installed on ship. In addition the rigging sequence more or less followed the actual building sequence of a real ship. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. One Rattlesnake builder I was following was also using the practicum and he felt the practicum rigging instructions wasted too line. Since I was using Syren's rigging line and not the Mamoli kit's, cost was also a consideration.

I installed the bowsprit first, then work my way from the first level of the masts from the mizzen forward, adding the associated rigging for each step level, inboard to outboard. I worked for me, but since this was the first time I had ever done this, I have no previous experience to compare it against.

I think you made the right choice for you. You do what works best for your knowledge and skills. 

Jon

Here are some of the pictures I had hoped you would of received full size by now

Jon

Sorry it's taking so long to reach you.

I thought about attaching the netting on my Rattlesnake at the same time you are now but a lot of other builds I was watching elected not to. They were afraid the netting would interfere or get damaged during the rigging process. Of course using the method you are using, you would have to do it now unless you can attached the rails later. My netting is going to to be laced on using a thread to wrap around the railing and stanchions and through the netting. . Once I finish adding my rope coils to the pin rails and cleats, that's next. At least that's the plan.

BTW, what method did you use to add those fine "rivets" to the tops?

Jon

I asked because I've seen other builders (myself included) "cheat" and use served music wire. You can't tell the difference and it looks taught all the time.

Those catharpins are a real bugger to install especially trying to get the tension consistent on all of them. Would you mind elaborating how you accomplished it?

Beautiful work. I sure hope my disc with pictures and plans arrives before you finish the tops.

When you get it, if you will check the folder under Photos, Masts, Fighting Tops you will find a bunch of photos taken from above as well as from below. Hopefully they will show you the eyebolts you are looking for.

The Navy Plans "masts,21162" folder has a sheet of plans (21162 - Tops for Masts) for the tops which shows eyebolts.There are also a couple of miscellaneous documents related to the tops in "mast" folder.

Ken, you might want to try wetransfer.com. For no cost, you can transfer 20 GB of files. You submit your files to the site. The site notifies the recipient so they can download. After 30 days the stored files will vanish from the site. It worked great when my sister had send me a bunch of stuff.

Jon

Once the glue has set, the pins are removed and the coil pops off the plastic with a little coaxing from an X-acto knife. The short loop at the center of the coil is pulled through the coil. The excess line is trimmed and the loop is then hung on the belay pin with the coil hanging straight down. Ta-da!!

On a model, this is done in two parts; the line terminates at the pin/cleat and then a separate coil is attached hiding the excess free ends of the line. To make a pin coil that looks like the real thing a jig is required; mine consists of three pins in a piece of wood. The block of wood has a piece of plastic on it so the line won’t stick to the wood block. It makes the hanging loop and the coil from one piece of line.

First the line is soaked in water for a few minutes. A dab of PVC glue is placed on my fore finger and thumb. The wet line is pulled through my pinched fingers coating the line and drawing off any excess glue.  Using the jig, the line comes in, loops around the middle pin, crosses over itself and rounds the top pin, then down to the bottom pin. It continues around the top and bottom pins a couple of times. 

I’ve started to clean-up the “spaghetti” and add pin rail rope coils. The coils that hang on the belay pins are not just coiled around the pin; many times the pin is just not large enough to hold all the rope. The coil his hung from the side of the pin. The same is true for cleats. I found this diagram some time back (don’t remember where) which hopefully is self-explanatory. I also added my own crude drawing.

Thought you might want this picture of the center balustrades where the arches meet.

Jon

"Soon" is a relative term. I've been working on this model since 2009. I do however see the the light at the end of the tunnel. When I pop out of the tunnel depends on Mr. Murphy and his laws. 8-)

Jon

I thought I had seen a master craftsman make brass stanchions before when I saw Blues Ensign make them for his Pegasus, but I believe you sir, will surpass that standard. Beautiful work!

Jon

The best I can come up with are these photos...and you have to look real close.

Jon

I don't have any other images of the brackets. I didn't realize the center one was different. I did however have some 1929 US Nay plans showing what the brackets looked like prior to the restoration. Believe it or not, they look like the bracket you already made! I also had some plans for the studding sail end and quarter irons.

I guess the choice is yours

Jon

25351-.pdf

25527 - Boom, Studding Sail, End and Quarter Irons.pdf

I just located an image of the studding sail boom bracket and I noticed that my image shows the two most external eyeloops are horizontal in orientation as opposed to the vertical ones you just made. Is that the way the plans show it? You are so meticulous, I wouldn't want you to make a mistake.

Jon

When making the goose-neck brackets, you stated: "Layers separated and CA removed from both sides and surfaces sanded smooth." How exactly did you dissolve the CA? Did you soak them in acetone? If so, how did the solvent penetrate between the metal layers?

BTY, have I mentioned before that I really enjoy your build log?

Jon

At this point all that is left is sheet 9 of the Mamoli plans which is the rigging between the masts. But before I jump into that, I have to tighten up the existing rigging, clean up all the spaghetti, and add a bazillion rope coils. If I don’t do that now, the additional rigging between the masts will interfere getting to the inner spaces of the model.

The only thing worthy of note was that the top gallant halyards on the Main and Foremasts required a block in the mast tops as well as one on the deck. The lines go from the center of the yard, through the mast, and terminate at a block. The block starts a line which goes to a block on the top, back up again to the halyard block and then down to the deck block and finally belays on a mast cleat. Luckily, I had the forethought to pre-drill the holes for the eyebolt stropped blocks prior to installing the masts and the tops. The blocks were stropped to the eye bolt and then strung onto the line. It was just a matter of pushing the eyebolt stems into the pre-drilled holes.

Another milestone: the last stick of wood (as far as I know), the fore top gallant yard has finally been installed. All of the rigging lines for the individual masts and yards have also been installed. Thank goodness because right now my model looks like a spaghetti factory run amok due to the fact that I left all the belayed lines with excess rope for finally adjustment.