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foxy

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Everything posted by foxy

  1. That's a lovely ship you have there and can see why it takes some lifting around. All ways liked the second rate ships. She is looking the part and no mistake. foxy
  2. Thanks David. Well after the advise on the plastic spars I had a go at the bowsprit. First removed the plastic bowsprit ends and added a wood one, have a brass boom for the top half later. With wood inplace and much stronger me thinks. Also changed the main mast top spar and added wood and brass final. Waiting on Cornwall model boats for some more wood. Foxy
  3. Right added most of the centre items and guns on the lower deck. Bow end. Then test fitted the middle deck to line up with the lower deck. This with a bit of weight to make sure all seated well. Also lined up loose the next deck gratings and capstans, plus the masts,(very Important). Loose fitted the poop deck to check fit. Also added the siren messenger and bowser ropes. Very pleased with it so far. Foxy
  4. No problem shipmate. you do it as you like and have fun. But have noticed on other builds this difference with the gun port lids, that's why the question. I am sure someone will have the answer. Maybe I am mixing up the Costitution with the Constellation Happy modelling foxy
  5. Great build, but excuse my ignorance on the gun ports, when did the Connie use the single gun ports instead of the double gun port. Seems each captain changed the ship in some way on commanding it, was there no regulation at this time. foxy
  6. Just read through your build shipmate. Lovely work and plenty of idea's when I start my Connie in the future, be it smaller than yourn . That Idea of a false gun port for setting up the block and tackle can be used for many ship builds. Fantastic work. foxy
  7. Thanks Daniel and David. That is very timely, I have for the bowsprit kept the plastic bottom half and used brass for the main spars here. No picture as I have already sprayed them. As for the main upper and royals, that is something I will be changing from plastic to wood, was going for brass, but now I have my lathe it will be a lot easier in wood. Will be doing the upper spars in wood. Thanks again for the timely words, will strip this part down and put wood/brass for this section. Brass at top and plastic bottom, will strip out the plastic bottom half and substitute for wood. Ordered some from Cornwall Model Boats, just up the road from me. foxy
  8. For my next move I started putting the masts and yards together. Added Dafi's etch to the spars. Kept all loose at this time. foxy
  9. Hi Keith. Not sure yet, if I do it will be on the middle deck, the lower gun ports will be closed after lots of debating on this part of the build. Having pictures of the progress and enjoying all of the aspects so far, also to stop any damage as the bulge at this point of the ship makes it easy to course a mishap. The base was next to sit the ship safely. A friend of mine who makes things out of wood( bowls etc) has come up with a very nice piece of wood,''at a very good price too'. The supports are from the kit and just sprayed. Next I worked on the bow end with manger and messenger posts in place, will be using Syren ropes for this part from the main capstan through the bits to the hawser exit point. Also roping the guns at this stage for the 32 pdrs. Fitted one end dafi's etch parts. To line the ropes up I made a jig. Out of odd plastic bits and clamped to the table to work on. The 32 pounders ready to place on board. Made more support posts to make up the pillers holding the next level, this simply with a vice and dremel. Some of the other items for the decks. You will also note that I am using brass and plastic for the cross supports, the one's that come with the kit are more than useless with this type of build. More soon. foxy
  10. The etch one's that Daniel does are very distinct all though there for the 1/100 scale. But as Blue Ensign say's, they may suit the smaller guns. Hope you get sorted foxy
  11. Thanks JP. yes that is very usefull and will have a go. just painted and sealed while I get on with other things handling the ship. Will come back to that later. Lots of little items on the go. Making the bilge pumps, used dafi's etch and some scratch items. Note double blocks also being made,' got to keep busy you know'. Painted main pumps and placed. Found the heads were to small in scale ,so rebuilt them. Next it was the channels these from Daniels experience need widening at the bow end by at least 3mm. I added for all of them, but was put right by Daniel on this. Here's my mistake, but put right now,'Phew'. Next was to build the tiller. Using evergreen plastic, Dafi's eye bolts and Syren blocks. They work too. The blocks that is, but will not once fitted. More soon. foxy
  12. Norway maybe. foxy
  13. In that scale painting will be a shame as the wood looks fantastic. Not sure on the pink though foxy
  14. Yep best fill the gap, will then make the thickness right around the gun ports. Above all do not rush it. have fun. foxy
  15. Ay, that's good. Like that stern effect. Done it proud foxy
  16. Now that's one boat(can I call it a boat )'well maybe steamboat'. As I was saying, I have all ways wanted to build one of these, so will be taking an interest. I have many western dvds with these steamboats plying along. So the interest. Retired to jaydee. Will be watching this build. foxy
  17. While working on different items as I go along, I found some very nice steering wheels from RBmodels. Brass they are and fit the bill for my build. Come in kit form but fit together like a glove. Also in the pursuit of realism moved to the upper works which have brass inserts, these were not square, so some plastic filler was ness. After removing struts and sanding/replacing struts the shape was better after some coats of paint . At the same time started on the partitions that I felt the detail was not enuff. Added Dafi's etch window frames at this time. Paint used to complete these. Sorry about the clutter in the last picture. More soon me thinks. foxy
  18. Great work there, the final is in site on buoys of the past. That's a very nice way you have portrayed this item . As usual with great detail for us who will follow. foxy
  19. There is a substance that will turn brass black It begins with a K, but the name escapes me. You soak the chain and then wash off with water, it is also used for blackening etch . foxy
  20. You could have the sails furled and this would show more detail, ships in Harbour had there sails removed for repair etc, but still carried some furled. At sea that would be an other story, I see no problem having sails fully extended, but it all depends on what scale you chose. The smaller the better. 1/100 will give you a good size to work on. anything larger will have to be detailed more. I can see why the larger rigged ships have no sails, but it can be done. foxy
  21. He means one side of the plank, use a pen(black if possible) to define the caulking. This will help to show the decking with spaces. Hope this helps. foxy
  22. Next it was the bumble bee effect, or chequered pattern .for this I used Life color paints for the dark and Admil paints for the yellow. Then a coat of matt varnish to seal. Working on the lower deck I made some false boxes for the orlop steps. Added steps later. foxy
  23. Keith will you be doing the cheque effect(bumble bee) or is this before 1800's on your build. Very nice work shipmate. Foxy
  24. Some other pictures of other parts on the go. Making the block and tackle for the guns later on, this using the 2mm Syren blocks single and double, they work too . First glue one side. Add dafis hooks. Next its the double blocks with longer tails. foxy
  25. Moving on from the last pictures of the mast's, now I can test fit as I go along. Then its back to the lower deck. Hanging knees was the next thing, using coffee sticks I acquired from my visit to California last year. After painting white, fixed with PVA to existing wood sides and painted all white. Both sides done, its on to decking out this deck. More soon me thinks. Foxy
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