rcmdrvr

Hear! Her! on the enjoyment part.

Now you need to build the diorama around the derelic dory to make for a really interesting display!

That's the plan. I'll cut off the base stand arms, and build up with sand. I still have a bit of sand left over from miniatures bases. A few scattered bits of wood, and some of my static grass and it will be good

Now you need to build the diorama around the derelic dory to make for a really interesting display!

So after much thought. I took my disappointing Dory and made some changes. Since it was a rough build, chocked full of mistakes and irreversible damage, I made it a derelict Dory. She's now seen better days. Weathering, rotting, faded paint and damaged planks, battens, cap rail etc. All my mistakes and disappointments now harnessed for something I can now look ok with positive feelings. Wood was aged and cracked using a wire brush, oil washes applied, faded wood color, green tint, remnants of a green trim, brown wash, and white highlights. Had the wife not tossed out the box, I probably would have made one or two of the oars. I might still, from scratch. But I found my dremels' tip didn't open large enough for planks or dowels to use it as a lathe. 
 

Hear! Her! on the enjoyment part.

Hear! Her! on the enjoyment part.

Hear! Her! on the enjoyment part.

Hear! Her! on the enjoyment part.

Hear! Her! on the enjoyment part.

Hi All, 
After having couple speed build videos completed on my YouTube channel, I got my first sponsored model kit, the BB605 RCMP St.Roch 1:72 scale from Billing Boats. 
This was an advanced beginner kit and should be very straightforward. The plan was good but the instructions could be better. The kit was well packaged and so far I did NOT see anything missing. 
 
I will keep the build log coming and as usual to film the entire build process and upload to YouTube after done. Hopefully, my build log and final video can provide some help to anyone who likes to build the legendary boat model. 
 
Thank you and good luck building!  

I had an interest in this model but your struggles is beginning to scare me a bit!  The plastic headed pins you are using look like the metal pin part is threaded.  Is that correct?  Does it help holding them in place.

Welcome to ship modelling.  Your ability to work thru problems will be a great asset as you progress through this build and more complicated models in the future.  I think problem solving is one aspect of this hobby that makes it so interesting.

Paint looks beautiful.  Would like to know how you achieved your results.  Whose paint did you use?  Brush or sprayed?  Thinned?  Will you put any clearcoat on the model?  Sorry to ask so many questions but we are here to learn.

The next step proved to be a bit difficult.  Egyptian ships did not have keels.  They stablized the hull by stretching a large rope in a arch between the bow and stern.  At the bow and stern they crafted "hard points" to attach this rope truss.  The hard points had to be quite strong so they used heavily wrapped rope as a strap to hold the hard point to the hull.  They would wrap the strap around the hard point structure and then loop under the hull.  My final photo will give you an idea of what I am trying to describe.  The plans called for making the strap by cutting out a copper strip from thin copper sheet and then wrapping this with rope.  I cut out the pattern from the plans and quickly discovered it was not long enought to wrap around the hull.  I lengthened the pattern but traced the new pattern on the copper sheet.  However, I just managed to destroy the sheet trying to cut out the copper strap.  I really have to improve my metal fashioning skills.
 
I instead tried to duplicate the straps I saw in photos, when I researched Egyptian ships on the internet, using rope.  I took two lengths of 1.3 mm rope and wrapped them with .7 mm rope to form a thicker straight rope for the strap.  I then wrapped these straight ropes around the dowl that would become the hard point and then around the hull.  Finally I attached the two straps together in the center to form the final single strap.  I hope my photos do a better job of showing what I fashioned than my descriptions.  During the wrapping process I would coat the wrapped portion of the straps with thinned wood glue and then dry it in a fruit dehydrator.  This worked great.  The wrappings stayed put but the strap remained flexible so I could work with it.  Anyhow, I think I was able to achieve an acceptable result.  The last two photos show first the bow and then the stern hard points for the truss rope; which will be installed later.

Even if the decking below the wheelhouse were slightly curved (maybe to provide more strength to the structure); at the scale of the model it would not make much difference.  Your progress on the model has been good.  I found that fashioning and attaching the deck furniture was quite "fiddility".

The next step proved to be a bit difficult.  Egyptian ships did not have keels.  They stablized the hull by stretching a large rope in a arch between the bow and stern.  At the bow and stern they crafted "hard points" to attach this rope truss.  The hard points had to be quite strong so they used heavily wrapped rope as a strap to hold the hard point to the hull.  They would wrap the strap around the hard point structure and then loop under the hull.  My final photo will give you an idea of what I am trying to describe.  The plans called for making the strap by cutting out a copper strip from thin copper sheet and then wrapping this with rope.  I cut out the pattern from the plans and quickly discovered it was not long enought to wrap around the hull.  I lengthened the pattern but traced the new pattern on the copper sheet.  However, I just managed to destroy the sheet trying to cut out the copper strap.  I really have to improve my metal fashioning skills.
 
I instead tried to duplicate the straps I saw in photos, when I researched Egyptian ships on the internet, using rope.  I took two lengths of 1.3 mm rope and wrapped them with .7 mm rope to form a thicker straight rope for the strap.  I then wrapped these straight ropes around the dowl that would become the hard point and then around the hull.  Finally I attached the two straps together in the center to form the final single strap.  I hope my photos do a better job of showing what I fashioned than my descriptions.  During the wrapping process I would coat the wrapped portion of the straps with thinned wood glue and then dry it in a fruit dehydrator.  This worked great.  The wrappings stayed put but the strap remained flexible so I could work with it.  Anyhow, I think I was able to achieve an acceptable result.  The last two photos show first the bow and then the stern hard points for the truss rope; which will be installed later.

Even if the decking below the wheelhouse were slightly curved (maybe to provide more strength to the structure); at the scale of the model it would not make much difference.  Your progress on the model has been good.  I found that fashioning and attaching the deck furniture was quite "fiddility".

Even if the decking below the wheelhouse were slightly curved (maybe to provide more strength to the structure); at the scale of the model it would not make much difference.  Your progress on the model has been good.  I found that fashioning and attaching the deck furniture was quite "fiddility".

Even if the decking below the wheelhouse were slightly curved (maybe to provide more strength to the structure); at the scale of the model it would not make much difference.  Your progress on the model has been good.  I found that fashioning and attaching the deck furniture was quite "fiddility".

Even if the decking below the wheelhouse were slightly curved (maybe to provide more strength to the structure); at the scale of the model it would not make much difference.  Your progress on the model has been good.  I found that fashioning and attaching the deck furniture was quite "fiddility".

I started sanding the bottom and frames to prepare for the sides. A short way into this, I popped the stem off the bow. It came off cleanly as one piece. My tendency early on was to use as little glue as I thought I could get away with, and I misjudged this one. A short deliberation later, I chose to reglue it with a gel CA. I didn't feel like the wood glue was going to work in the same place again, and I wanted to make sure the sanding wouldn't separate the joint.      I also noticed as I was sanding that the stem was moving around in its slot, so I taped some small pieces of wood around it to hold it centered and stationary.   The 150 grit sandpaper seemed too "grabby" for the job at this stage, and I am working on using a lighter touch, so I made another sanding stick with 220 grit so I could go a little slower and take lighter passes. Instead of scrap wood for the backing, I used a thin styrene strip. This is flexible lengthwise, and will keep its shape along its width. I have a lot of it around, unlike the very thin wood strips.    As I mentioned in my last post, the transom ended up hovering a bit off the surface of the building board after the glue-up, which means that the prescribed blocks for either side of it were not holding it firmly in place during sanding. I put some pins through the becket holes and buried the ends in the building board, and that was sufficient to hold it steady for the sanding steps. I took very light strokes on it with 220 grit to avoid stressing it.      Sanding down the rest of the frames and bottom went well. I have 2 tiny misalignments of the frame to the bottom where further sanding would have forced the bottom out of shape, and the rest of the frames line up well, so I left the two alone.    After I had the shape I wanted on the frames, I noticed the stem still wasn't as tapered as pictures show it should be, but I didn't want to keep sanding the frames. I put a piece of paper over the frames and sanded with the sanding stick as normal so I could get the right curve on the stem without altering the frames. I'm almost done with that.       

The next step proved to be a bit difficult.  Egyptian ships did not have keels.  They stablized the hull by stretching a large rope in a arch between the bow and stern.  At the bow and stern they crafted "hard points" to attach this rope truss.  The hard points had to be quite strong so they used heavily wrapped rope as a strap to hold the hard point to the hull.  They would wrap the strap around the hard point structure and then loop under the hull.  My final photo will give you an idea of what I am trying to describe.  The plans called for making the strap by cutting out a copper strip from thin copper sheet and then wrapping this with rope.  I cut out the pattern from the plans and quickly discovered it was not long enought to wrap around the hull.  I lengthened the pattern but traced the new pattern on the copper sheet.  However, I just managed to destroy the sheet trying to cut out the copper strap.  I really have to improve my metal fashioning skills.
 
I instead tried to duplicate the straps I saw in photos, when I researched Egyptian ships on the internet, using rope.  I took two lengths of 1.3 mm rope and wrapped them with .7 mm rope to form a thicker straight rope for the strap.  I then wrapped these straight ropes around the dowl that would become the hard point and then around the hull.  Finally I attached the two straps together in the center to form the final single strap.  I hope my photos do a better job of showing what I fashioned than my descriptions.  During the wrapping process I would coat the wrapped portion of the straps with thinned wood glue and then dry it in a fruit dehydrator.  This worked great.  The wrappings stayed put but the strap remained flexible so I could work with it.  Anyhow, I think I was able to achieve an acceptable result.  The last two photos show first the bow and then the stern hard points for the truss rope; which will be installed later.

Decking is next.  The kit provided a laser cut plywood deck that you plank with wooden strips.  Unfortunately the plywood deck was a bit small.  I held the plywood deck in place with a clamp so that I could cut the planking to cover the gap between the plywood deck and the sides of the ship.  This worked well.  After planking there is some hole drilling and adding rope loops before the deck is glued into place.  With the decking in place; I think the model is beginning to take shape.
 

The next step proved to be a bit difficult.  Egyptian ships did not have keels.  They stablized the hull by stretching a large rope in a arch between the bow and stern.  At the bow and stern they crafted "hard points" to attach this rope truss.  The hard points had to be quite strong so they used heavily wrapped rope as a strap to hold the hard point to the hull.  They would wrap the strap around the hard point structure and then loop under the hull.  My final photo will give you an idea of what I am trying to describe.  The plans called for making the strap by cutting out a copper strip from thin copper sheet and then wrapping this with rope.  I cut out the pattern from the plans and quickly discovered it was not long enought to wrap around the hull.  I lengthened the pattern but traced the new pattern on the copper sheet.  However, I just managed to destroy the sheet trying to cut out the copper strap.  I really have to improve my metal fashioning skills.
 
I instead tried to duplicate the straps I saw in photos, when I researched Egyptian ships on the internet, using rope.  I took two lengths of 1.3 mm rope and wrapped them with .7 mm rope to form a thicker straight rope for the strap.  I then wrapped these straight ropes around the dowl that would become the hard point and then around the hull.  Finally I attached the two straps together in the center to form the final single strap.  I hope my photos do a better job of showing what I fashioned than my descriptions.  During the wrapping process I would coat the wrapped portion of the straps with thinned wood glue and then dry it in a fruit dehydrator.  This worked great.  The wrappings stayed put but the strap remained flexible so I could work with it.  Anyhow, I think I was able to achieve an acceptable result.  The last two photos show first the bow and then the stern hard points for the truss rope; which will be installed later.