Jump to content

Piet

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,568

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Piet

  1. Piet
    Looking splendid Boris, great detail. Cheers,
  2. Piet
    Good advice by Ben. I'm also an artist and certified draftsman, among many other things, and suggest to pick one each between 4H and 2B. Start out with the 2H first on a pice of scrap and see how it looks. The softer pencils can be used for extra accents whenever or wherever needed. Just keep the points sharp. I have used that method on both my sloop models with satisfying results. If you want to try colored pencils then my choice will be Prismacolor Veithin, they are harder then the regular Prismacolor artists pencils with excellent light vastness. A dark grey might work great. I use these for fine detail work like hair and nerve lines in flowers and leaves. Steadler is another good artists color pencil that holds a point quite well. I have four different makes of artists color pencils and all are rated high in color fastness. BTW, I am a member of the Colored Pencil Society Of America and active in a local chapter in Palm Coast, FL. For a model like you are building, which is a jewel, a little patience in selecting "tools" for the sail lines is important and many trials before you can actually make the sails. Good luck with it. Cheers,
  3. Piet
    Thanks Dave and Carl for your comments. Well, Dace, in one of my past lives I acted in 3 three act off-Broadway plays, so yes, I am a ham and not shy with radio or TV I'm just nervous with having the model in the back of the S-10 pickup. Thinking of a lightly inflated air mattress with a few pillows on the sides for lateral support. The VOC ship can take some jolting but will be placed on an old mattress cover. The two small models go into a box with the bases tied to the bottom. Truck will go to the fixit shop for a checkover, just to be sure I can make it up to Fayetteville in one piece No Carl, no shidig, no booze, no weed but you can still come on over Yuns don't know this but actually I knew my dear Gwen since 1948! She was 7 years old then and I was already an old man of 14. I used to read bedtime stories to her when I was sleeping over. Her older brother and I were good friends and besides, I had eyes on her oldest sister who was also in my MULO class. We lost sight of her family after I emigrated to the USA in 1957. Long story this but after 53 year being together she's still putting up with me I put # 4 poly coat on the board today and put the O19 on it. It's not looking too bad. I'm also on the look-out for an engraver who can do the name plate in brass. Have't found one yet here locally. I have another thought though, raised lettering! If I can find brass letters and numbers then I can solver solder them to a brass plate. I could actually cut them out myself - - - very labor intensive work though. Cheers,
  4. Piet
    Fun time with the family is most important, enjoy it now while you can. CS can wait, no hurry, it's a hobby. Cheers,
  5. Piet
    Cut it out you guys, you are cracking me up Well, Carl, I hope there'll be hundreds of people attending this auction. There may be beer but no weed. George, you can contact SawdustDave, he is building the Sovereign of the Seas. He is the organizer and has all the details. It'll be quite ride from where you are but there is always the airlines. I'm watching out alright Popeye. Oh yeah, Frankie and Annette, remember them well - that's when I owned a nice '55 Chevy BellAir.. Loved to cruise downtown Red Bank, New Jersey, hoping to attract one of the fair maidens By the way, the build board now has three thin coats of poly on it. Some more sanding and a few more coats. I may even have to buy a new can of that stuff. It's surprisingly not looking too bad. But plan C is still in the future. Cheers to all,
  6. Piet
    That's one handsome looking trawler Kees. At that scale it'll be a miniature and a great challenge for detail work. Cheers,
  7. Piet
    Just one heck of a fantastic looking model Popeye, or is it Bob now We still need that claxon horn on top of the cockpit - - - Cheers,
  8. Piet
    Thanks for the URL's Carl even the one in Dutch Just wonder how much the shipping charges will be AND if the airlines can transport spritus based stuff. I'll do some more digging whenever I find the time between all the extra things I'm involved with - - - outside of modeling I have put two coats of poly on the board and it's not looking all that bad. Some more sanding and a few more very light thin coats then I'll cal it quits. I'll deal with plan C after I come back from the Fayetteville shindig in two weeks. I'm looking forward to it but hope my old Chevy S10 will hold up. The O19 is too long for the Buick so I'll have use the old truck. Cheers,
  9. Piet
    Hey Patrick, at the scale you are working with to do the foot rail in scale is near impossible but what you have done is sheer magic! Now, if you stretch that brass wire it'll make it thinner and also work-hardens it as well as pulling any kinks out. I used 28 gauge brass wire on my O19 sub for antenna wire and used that method with great success. It's 0.4 mm and actually a little too thick but if you can buy the thinnest brass wire and then stretch it you'll come closer to your scale. However, it's as you said, it's the idea that counts and I wouldn't loose any hairs over it. Thanks Igor for the URL, it may come in handy for the future. Cheers,
  10. Piet
    Beautiful work Bob. I think that with the simple rigging on these sloops that a clip on roof is quite doable without any risk. Cheers,
  11. Piet
    Holy roaring mackerel Popeye, she's looking great and quite a crowded deck. The detail work you put on her is just fantastic. Cheers,
  12. Piet
    The finishing looks beautiful and yes, I really like that bow shot. A sleek lady she is! Cheers,
  13. Piet
    Fantastic work John! Cheers,
  14. Piet
    Oh, I'm not yet giving up Dave and will bring this board with me for the big show. I have done everything that's normally involved with staining. There's something with this wood that won't allow the oil based stain to penetrate deep into the wood. This morning I used a piece of hard wood to rub over it and saw an oily mass being pushed ahead of the wood, yet it feels dry. I decided to go ahead and finish it with the poly urethane finish and make up my mind how to proceed from here, later. I think I need to find some water based stain to give that a try. Thanks to all for the likes, it's encouraging, Cheers,
  15. Piet
    Nice work in the railing Kees and a great tutorial. Cheers,
  16. Piet
    Great solution on the ladder handhold / railing Popeye. Cheers,
  17. Piet
    Thanks everybody for your comments and likes, much appreciated. I put one more thin coat of stain on the trim molding and it seems to improve it some. I did a test piece without the conditioner and it seemed a little better, still not penetrating into the wood the way I expect a die to do. Hey, this is soft pine and should soak the stuff up like a sponge. I like the color but not the unevenness. I tried using a leather die Remco recommended for the teak deck slats for the O19 and that works real great. It's a water based die but the color has an dark orangie tint to it and not really suitable for this board. However, if a water based die works better then an oil based die then I could possible go to plan C and rip all the molding off and and use a water based die - - - only after I try it first Provided I can find a dark water based die. Have to do some searching in the Internet. Cheers,
  18. Piet
    Beautiful models Boris. Is the lower one Hr. Ms. Tromp? If so, who build it? Just outstanding detail you bring into your models. heers,
  19. Piet
    Nice progress John, she's shaping up great. Cheers,
  20. Piet
    Hello friends and thank you George and Dave for the screw advice. Yup, I'm also a firm believer in gluing and screwing. Now to put drywall or deck screws into these delicate pieces would be problematic. In the end it worked out okay with the tiny brats and some putty, it was hardly noticeable. I had more trouble with staining then the gluing. Not so much with the oak plywood but with the pine trim pieces. I used a Golden oak stain for the oak plywood and Provençal for the trim. I wanted the trim in a darker color them the plywood to set it off, like picture frame. It didn't turn out that way, to me it's not even and blotchy. The pictures my not show it but in real life it's quite noticeable. I have stained wood before when Gwen and I were refurbishing furniture so I'm not inexperienced with the use of stain. One thing comes to mind though, I was recommended to use a wood conditioner for soft wood to open the pores for the stain to penetrate. I have never had to use this stuff and my gut feeling is that it may have done just the opposite. The pine trim should have soaked the stain up like a sponge but it actually just laid on top of the wood and even ran off the high spots to the gullies. What I should have done is to use a cut-off piece to test it both ways, with the conditioner and without. I'll have to try tomorrow without the conditioner and see if the stain penetrates evenly before I rip these pieces off and start over. I don't know yet if these stained trim pieces can take a coat or two of paint. Maybe an oil base. I like the form of the trim pieces and so does Gwen. If I still get blotchy results then my only recourse will be paint - - - that'll be plan C Okay, that's my problem for today. Here are a few pics of the display board as it is today. I took the pics outside the garage where I have been staining them. This side shows more of blotches then the port side, go figure. This is semi closeup of the trim pieces. The top piece is only 1/2 inch wide, not much room for drywall screw This side doesn't look too bad but you can see that's not even or dark enough. Cheers,
  21. Piet
    Thanks Drazen for the explanation, I understand - not bad for an airplane guy, 1:1 scale I agree with Peter Hollom on the green color - but - - - Remco is inquiring for me in Holland as to what color green they traditionally use for their houses and windmills. I have used Windsor & Newton Permanent Green Madder, which matches the color photos I have from old buildings in Holland. Cheers,
  22. Piet
    Hi Patrick, my question about the paint was not with the idea that I thought it is the wrong tint. I was just curious because I figured them to be white, not knowing thatthey are either aluminum or stainless steel. It is difficult to simulate either metal with paint on models. I build a plastic model of the Big Boy locomotive several years ago and used Testors #1180 steel but it actually looks more like aluminum. On the pics you posted they did look a little dark and perhaps you could try a light grey color that may come closer to the real thing. For a trial you could look into Testors 921577 Light Grey, it could match Al or SS close enough (for government work ) It won't hurt to try. It's absolutely not objectionable the way you have it. Cheers,
  23. Piet
    Great looking handrails Patrick. What's the final color for the mast and boom? What did you decide for the sail cloth? Cheers,
  24. Piet
    That looks very nice Drazen but I don't understand how to use it Hey, I'm an airplane guy - - - no planking on airplanes Cheers,
  25. Piet
    Everything looks so realistic, I almost expect someone walking across the deck and opening one of the doors. Cheers,

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...