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maaaslo

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Everything posted by maaaslo

  1. so you are copying the original you purchased and changing the scale, right? that's a good way. just make sure that every page you print is in same settings. otherwise, your plane wont fit... LOL, im sure you know that. paint me pink and call me obvious.
  2. Danny, tabs are there for you to slice them off. Polish kits dont have tabs. Tab-less joint is stronger then one with tabs... but i realise, i am not the one building this model. Perhaps for future you will know to stay away from SB
  3. Did you try laminating it? Sometimes it helps to strenghten the paper (as you know). I never had a chance to get my hands on SB kit. Is it really such thin card? Another option could be taking it to profesional printing studio and asking them to scan it and printing it onto something heavier. Bit pricey i admit.
  4. I see you have been fighting with the paper a bit. one side of your build is creased, isn't it?
  5. if she lived a bit closer id take it. but 200 miles is a bit too far to drive. good luck finding home to this beauty.
  6. Somewhere earlier in this thread he explained he redo any and every part he is not happy with. So no, he is not an alien. but still, i would love to see his scrap pile. Must be ... i dont know. Alien hypothetis sounds reasonable too...
  7. Id like to come back to your scarf joint tool. If i understand it correctly, it works just like the stamping, right?
  8. Ive done a little calculation. it would cost me roughly 440USD after I paid the import tax. better than directly from Mr Byrnes, roughly 100USD better. I will have to pass. I spoke to the Admiral, she said NO!!!! maybe after I sell the DH40, if still available... if for nothing else, we now have a link for a great parcel service (thanks for that Imagna) sorry for wasting your time
  9. Out of curiosity, could you find out how much would be shipping to UK (if willing)? If exact postcode needed its SS11 7JS. i want one as the proxxon DH40 just does not work for me (incredible noise)
  10. bro, it looks very nice and crisp. could you please take a closeup of the rudder area? I have a feeling you might have something rather out of place there... I too have this kit, same year too. I bought it as part finished on ebay for about 20quid. I only found the reason for why it was sold later. bad warp in keel. to learn the planking, still would do... I got as far as fitting the sides , now I have to do the inner bulwarks. I made slight mod to the kit, where I have raised the bulwark as it was very low. only later I realised, that the kit is wrongly marked as 1:50, where it should be more like 1:100
  11. Yes, it is called sagging. And sagging can be quite significant https://goo.gl/images/fgoa6q
  12. regarding cutaways: Halinski has some pictures from prototype builds on their page. look for T34 and Sherman firefly... detail is unbelievable. I have both at home and sometimes just look through the books, to admire the quality...
  13. one thing about "working" latches and other parts... you are asking for a trouble. although they look impressive to untrained eye, they are more often flimsy and weak. if you soak it in CA glue, might do the trick, but then there is discolouration of paper... BUT, its your model. if you want to paint it pink and draw unicorns on it, who am I to tell you otherwise. BTW, very, very good job. maybe an inspiration for you: http://www.papirove-modely.cz/velkynahled/81410
  14. AHEM.... https://sklep.gpm.pl/akcesoria/elementy-laserowe/gasienice/pasy/1/25/ostketten-stug-40-/-pz-kpfw-iii-j-sig-33-gasienice-grawerowane-laserowo
  15. actually, picture was taken by my wife... no speeding ticket gotten that time...
  16. heh... try to look for a model of Yamato, released by Halinski, modeled by Martanek... THAT is what I call detailed work... and by writing it I by no means want to belittle Danny's amazing job.
  17. Chris, did you perhaps think about using gofundme or similar campaign? To help funding the developement. I mean one does need the car sometimes. I would certainly chip in if it would mean that a lovely model with a lot of detail would get to be sold on the market. Im sick of generic details in all the kits i have. The best looking ones are those i purchased sepparately. If youd be able to produce or get produced any nice details, im in.
  18. id like to come back to Danny's comment regarding foam. although you cannot see a single ship built or finished by my hands, I have completed a handful of hulls to a very good finish. thanks to construction foam. you need to use one that does not create large bubbles in the process of curing. after curing the whole thing looks like a log of foam. then I take out a trusty carpet knife and carve off roughly all excess. I finish with sanding it smooth using sound paper grain 180-240. if I want to be very fancy, I would use plaster, or wood filler to make a nice smooth surface for the first skins to go to. process creates a solid surface that is ready to work with, does not push in (this can be very annoying especially when skinning large hulls, like Bismarck or Hood, Yamato and others) and most importantly, gives it a needed rigidity. this method been used excessively on Czech paper model forums where I found it and learned it. it has been used by Martanek if I am not mistaken and Doris did contemplate on the idea (again, if not mistaken). nowadays, it has been mostly abandoned, as it violates the rules of paper modelers cups and championships. something about using paper and minimum of non-paper materials. but if you build for your pleasure, why not?
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