maaaslo
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Everything posted by maaaslo
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Chris, did you perhaps think about using gofundme or similar campaign? To help funding the developement. I mean one does need the car sometimes. I would certainly chip in if it would mean that a lovely model with a lot of detail would get to be sold on the market. Im sick of generic details in all the kits i have. The best looking ones are those i purchased sepparately. If youd be able to produce or get produced any nice details, im in.
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id like to come back to Danny's comment regarding foam. although you cannot see a single ship built or finished by my hands, I have completed a handful of hulls to a very good finish. thanks to construction foam. you need to use one that does not create large bubbles in the process of curing. after curing the whole thing looks like a log of foam. then I take out a trusty carpet knife and carve off roughly all excess. I finish with sanding it smooth using sound paper grain 180-240. if I want to be very fancy, I would use plaster, or wood filler to make a nice smooth surface for the first skins to go to. process creates a solid surface that is ready to work with, does not push in (this can be very annoying especially when skinning large hulls, like Bismarck or Hood, Yamato and others) and most importantly, gives it a needed rigidity. this method been used excessively on Czech paper model forums where I found it and learned it. it has been used by Martanek if I am not mistaken and Doris did contemplate on the idea (again, if not mistaken). nowadays, it has been mostly abandoned, as it violates the rules of paper modelers cups and championships. something about using paper and minimum of non-paper materials. but if you build for your pleasure, why not?
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Did i not say to you, its going to take you around 6months? After the motorbike, get your hands on one of the Shipyard models. Id recomend Santa Leocadia. Shipyard does edition called SuperPlans. You get your formers and majority of decor all laser cut and engraved. But it also leaves plenty of room for scratch. As you dont get all these parts preprinted, you have to do them yourself. It would look very nice. I am getting courage to start mine... and also, i cannot wait for someone to beat Doris’s work...
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you are off to a great start. with the kind of preparations you showing us here, it should be a breeze for you. I shall be watching with great interest
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Just out of curiosity, how much postage to Cali? More specifically Gilroy...
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Now, people who have had questions, drop them again. There is a possibility you will get answers. Montañes, great work.
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Besides, everyone knows how to use Google translator.
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It seems Montañes is not replying to our questions, simply because he does not understand. I understand, that english is main, if not the only language, this forum should be written in. But we all are loosing on the language barrier. I propose a split posts: part english, part native language of the builder. That of course only for those who dont speak, read or understand english. Parece que Montañes no está respondiendo a nuestras preguntas, simplemente porque no entiende. Entiendo que el inglés es el idioma principal, sino el único, en el que debería escribirse este foro. Pero todos estamos perdiendo la barrera del idioma. Propongo una publicación dividida: parte en inglés, parte del idioma nativo del constructor. Eso, por supuesto, solo para aquellos que no hablan, leen o entienden inglés.
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Nice progress Danny. where are you going to get the Hood from? You have some place in mind already?
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Poor Man's Lathe disasters
maaaslo replied to stevenmh's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
i bought mine used for £53 on ebay. you just have to search and wait. it took about 2 months to find a good deal. i buy most of my tools broken, then fix them up. parts are mostly available from dealers... ive bought thicknesser dh40 for £54 with burned out motor. parts did cost me £112. still cheaper than most used on ebay. mp400 bench router for £52, motor burned out. parts £26. bargain... -
I havent placed any orders recently. Waiting for something new from Shipyard... but can order something small and add yours to it. Just let me know what and how much.
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Well, mine was only 6mm. Had to build them up. I used spare planking and got it up to roughly 10mm. Its out of scale anyways, but at least now it doesnt look out of place.
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Model Shipway Ratline tool
maaaslo replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
i have an idea... instead of tying the ratlines to each shroud separately, could it perhaps be done differently? use needle to poke your ratline through each shroud at the levels needed. for that, the ratline tool would be good. as you can tension your shrouds and you have guide on the sides for the spacing of the ratlines. then fix the spacing of the shrouds verticaly. when happy, soak with diluted glue. let dry. when dry, imitate clove hitch. could that be done? -
Model Shipway Ratline tool
maaaslo replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
besides, i have a feeling that you could fit both sides of shrouds on at the same time. and the waste of ratline line would be down significantly. -
Chuck, i support the ban on illegitimate and ripped off kits. Everyone deserves to get paid for their work.
may i suggest to just amend the first post? It is getting too many pages with amends. Perhaps all the talk could be archived, with a link to the chat for those who want to read it in the first post.
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Regarding the glue, in here, UK, there is Gorilla glue available, that i have really good experience with. It does dry with a slight yellow tint, but nit visible.
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Model Shipway Ratline tool
maaaslo replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hmmm... shall we start a project? -
Model Shipway Ratline tool
maaaslo replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
i wonder if this would work better, if there was a way of attaching part of the mast to the jig, so you could have exact length of he line used for the shrouds. there could be some sort of attachment allowing you to temporarily tie the deadeyes with correct spacing. like a dummy deck with dummy channels. but that would deny the whole point of doing it. as you would practically do the job twice. easier to do it on the ship. but the manipulation would be easier on the dummy deck... nah, ignore me, just thinking out loud... -
Thats great, very helpfull. Thank you. would you mind trying to measure bulwark between the deck and rail? I suspect i have to build up mine...
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Could i ask for a favor? I would love to do coppering on my kit, but my version does not show the correct lines in plans. Could you take a picture showing the line so i could start on coopering? I will need to hide planking errors, as walnut is too revealing...
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Danny, those guns look realy good. It make me not regretting selling the Bismarck to you. I would have sodomised her too much.
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It was Fuso. I think Doris built Roma, but never posted the log anywhere. That was before she was active on forums.
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Ahem, Jan... Fuso is one of the japanese battleships. More ine here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_battleship_Fusō
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