Kevin Kenny

Great idea about the knurled screws but they will be almost impossible to find here in Trinidad. I do have washers on the screws. The wood is an extreamly hard wood which i threaded then put  CA so it should last a while. I am in New York next month and will try to find the screws. 

Photo of completed work

Starboard side 

Greg

was the end of the second limber strake also thinned to 2” over 9ft and was the end tapered over 9ft 

Haha, it can’t get any worst than my path. But you know something,  the journey has been fantastic and my skills have improved as I get past each challenge, each screw up and perhaps more important, ever time I get it right the first time. 

Kevin

Its so great to be following you in my build. I cant tell you how much i learned from following your progress. 

I just like epoxy for major strength pieces. I am a big boat builder and cant get epoxy out of my system. I could have cut it out but the truth is i was able to solve the problem.

This is an excellent video on building a real life stern assembly.

Thanks goodness because it will be very difficult to do it now. Phew. 

Hi Greg

we have huge swings in Humidity which is why i like to use epoxy when ever possible. Having said that i have not had any problems with the 9 models i have built so far.  I feel that it is because i dry my wood for at least two years before using. 

I had not planned to fill the bottom space between the frames. If you feel it is essential i can still do this with difficulty. My memory of Davids view was that this was optional so i did not plan to add the fillers pieces as the entire model will be planked. His referance is book 1 page 164 3.26.  Perhaps what made me not want to do this is that for whatever reason the spaces between the frames were all over the place. It sould have been a real pain. Ill go back and look at Bens post. Assuming that i do not add them i will continue to build the inner limber stakes, the mast steps hooks and the crutch.  Then i plan to go to the wale and plank up to the deck. I do not plan to install rib bands as they would be tempory at best.

Thank you for your kind comments Bill. The sole purpose of my videos is to help other modelers and encourage new modelers to take the plung. My modeling skills continue to improve as I take the constant plung into the unknown. Never ceases to amaze  me that things that seemed so impossible, end up being so  simple when we learn just how to make it.   The Sultana is a great model that I know that you will enjoy building. Stick to it.

Best regards

Kevin

By the way what is LOS?

Thanks Ben

ive got the five pieces completed starting from the back with only three pieces having to be remade. Now on the stemson and struggling to line it up. Nice idea about black nylon fishing line. 

I am just starting the keelson. Any advice?

50 cleaned and sanded timber heads completed and ready to be installed

50 rough cut timber heads that were cut on the Preac table saw using a .010 saw blade

On 1/28/2019 at 12:53 PM, druxey said:

Fixed blocks worked like this:

101.psd

Greg

i had to edit the video as some how i decided to slide the fixed blocks down between the ribs instead of following the written instruction of pushing it through the hull. Humm, age is a bitch. Anyway i have corrected the video and the blocks now slide in. I assume they had a pin that would hold the entire block in place to prevent everything from sliding out when under load?

Restarting the build after taking some time to build th3 America 1851

The best boards would be near the center of the log.